Trip Report (Split, Hvar, Dubrovnik)
 

Two tips before I begin:

1. BRING YOUR WATER SHOES (acqua socks). There are few, if any, beaches with sand. The beaches are all rock and pebble in and out of the water. You will be a lot happier wearing your water shoes.

2. Although there are ATM machines, many restaurants, shops, and even travel agents that deal in day trips do not accept credit cards. Take more Traveler's Checques than you normally would.


Our trip was from May 16 - May 29, 2005. My husband and I are both 59 and come from a small midwestern town. We have travelled extensively.

We went through Travel Time in Astoria, NY to set up our package deal. We were quite pleased with the help we received and were not disappointed at all. The only problem with Travel Time is that using a credit card to pay for your trip will cost you an additional fee. It is better to pay cash. However, we would recommend them.

Our schedule was: 2 nights in Split, 5 nights in Hvar, and 5 nights in Mlini, Dubrovnik.

SPLIT - We stayed at the Hotel Split. It was adequate and the food was very good but it is a 40 minute walk or a 10 minute bus ride to town. I didn't mind the distance because we think it is fun to walk through the various neighborhoods in a country, but I think if we went back, I would stay closer to town. The driver who met us at the airport suggested the Park Hotel. He was very informative and told us that most people make the mistake of staying in Split for just a day or two. He said Split is the best place to use as a base to go to other places. Looking back, I agree with him. The Old Town of Split is wonderful and we enjoyed going to the Palace. There was also a terrific outdoor market nearby.

HVAR - We took the ferry from Split to Hvar Town. Hvar is just wonderful. We fell in love with it and hope to return some day to rent an apartment there for the entire month of May.

We stayed at The Adriatic. From the picture I found on the internet, I was somewhat skeptical, but we were pleasantly surprised. Our room faced the harbor and as we opened the shutters, it was a picture postcard view. The hotel is small, clean, comfortable and the staff was very nice. I would not hesitate to stay there again. The hotel is close to all of the cafes, and it can get kind of loud at night, but even that was enjoyable.

We took a bus ride to Stari Gard. There isn't much to the town, but the ride was interesting....miles and miles of rock walls that have been built up over the centuries by farmers trying to find land to plant.

Everything about Hvar was just magical. We later met a couple who told us that the restaurant on the way to the Citadel (part way up the stairs and to the right) called Macondo was the best food they had ever eaten.

We even attended Mass at the church on the main square. It was a memorable experience.

Hvar has the best ice cream anywhere, and the pivo (beer) is great...Karlovacko was our favorite.

We took a 6 hour ferry to get to Dubrovnik.

MLINI, DUBROVNIK - Mlini is a small fishing village just outside Dubrovnik. At first, I was disappointed that we could not get a hotel in the city, but it turned out to be just what we wanted. We stayed at the Astarea...a rather large complex that has a lot of tour groups. It was adequate.

Dubrovnik was just a short water taxi ride from Mlini and goes right to Old Town. Old Town is just amazing! It is also very crowded. Try to go up on the wall in early morning because it can really get hot. It was nice to go back to a quiet little village at the end of day. Also, from Mlini and from Old Town Dubrovnik, you can take a water taxi to another small village called Cavtat. Cavtat's harbor is surrounded by cafes and shops and beautiful walkways. It is a tresure, and we went there a couple of times.

OTHER THOUGHTS - I do not generally feel "unsafe" when I travel, but I was amazed at how very safe I felt in Croatia. The people were wonderful and the country is absolutely gorgeous. The 6 hour ferry trip from Hvar to Dubrovnik is stunning, and it makes a brief stop at Korcula. Many people asked why we would consider going to Croatia. It turned out to be the very best trip we have ever taken and I would highly recommend it to anyone. I just can't wait to go back someday.

salt777, thanks for posting the trip report. Do you have a web link, address or phone # for Travel Time? What kind of package deal did you get? Airfare and…what else? Did you rent a car through them? Did they select/book hotels?
We are planning a Croatia trip next year (maybe in Sept) for 2 weeks. I was thinking of arranging hotel accommodations myself (always do it that way) but getting to Croatia seems more complicated then getting other places. I might need a travel agency to do that. Thanks a lot

Totaly aggree with your views especially about feeling safe can't wait to go back, We flew into london & took a flight on ryanair to Trieste then the bus to Opatia then ferry from Rijeka to Dubrovnik rented an appartmant. 4 days, after a bus back along the beautiful coast to Split, where we took a 7 day cruise round the islands on a charter yacht , ryanair also flys into Bari so you can take a ferry across to Croatia

We also have been to Croatia. Spent a couple of days on Korcula and found a sandy beach! Hurray! We also enjoyed Split and Dubrovnik. In Split we enjoyed the Ivan Mestrovic Museum very much. We also felt completely safe everywhere we went in Croatia.

great report I am sending to a friend who is going next month

Thanks for your report. We took a trip to Croatia two years ago with our two children and really loved it. We took a ferry from Ancona to Split, then a bus down the coast to Dubrovnik and rented an apartment just outside the old town of Dubrovnik for two weeks. We got the apartment through Dubrovnik-Online.com. We also loved Cavtat, it is a lovely place to stroll, eat and just enjoy the gorgeous Croatian Coast. Not only were the people incredibly friendly and open to tourists, but many were absolutely gorgeous. I am a tall woman at 5'11" and many of the women there were taller than I was! I loved it. The old town is really crowded in the summer and can have a bit of a Disneyland feel to it, until you remember it is a REAL walled medieval city. The streets are paved with marble...it is a real gem. People still live within the walls and they have such an amazing sense of pride and real love of there city.

We were very touched by the still quite visible signs of the war and the effect it had on the people and the way they view the world.

We can't wait to go back.

Thanks for thoughts - last poster talked about taking kids. How old were kids, thinking about going with 5 and 2 year old. How was ferry from Ancona?

What GREAT timing Salt 777!

I've been to the Croatian tourist office (In NYC: Empire State Bldg) &
among my literature haul is a
list of 46 Tour Operators.

I had a long chat -- ok, some might call it grilling & your chosen operator
TravelTime has a good rep w/them.

Note to xyz99: Url is travetimeny.com

A goodly portion of my enjoyment is
the cuisine & Fish appears to be
the main stay of their diet along w/cheese & their wine. What were your findings? And how did you
like the cuisine?

I don't really want to take a tour but
cannot find someone who wants to
experience the Dalmatian coast so
would appreciate any further tips you
have have in your travel bag.

I am looking at late Sept/Oct 1 departure.

Salt, I was in the same areas at this time last year. Loved Croatia and wish I had brought the water shoes but I had Teva sandals and wore those in the water.
I stayed at the Park Hotel in Split and Did not like the rooms at all. Dim lighting and dirt and dustballs everywhere. Bathroom had about a 25 watt bulb could not see at all in there but did see the shower was moldy and tub dirty.
I was on a tour and only stayed 2 nights so I survived but would not recommend it.

Rhea -
Croatia's infrastructure - buses, ferries, etc - is so well organized, you don't need to go with a tour group. Croatia is well suited for solo travel.

Water shoes are widely available (and cheap) at the local beach shops in Croatia.

I'm returnig to Croatia this September for the fourth time - spending 5 days on Brac and 5 days on Hvar.

Thanks for the trip report! We are planning a trip to Croatia for next year and are planning on going to the places that you visited. Can I ask how you got to Croatia? We too live in the Midwest and the flights to Croatia are very expensive. We are considering flying into Rome, training to Ancona, ferry to Split and eventually a ferry from Dubrovnik to Bari and back to Rome. I doubt this is the best option, although we love Rome so we would probably include a few nights there before we leave for home.

Thanks again!
Tracy

Thanks; I know the country can be
safely traveled alone but hate to
eat alone when it's a vac.

I'm also looking at Elegant Cruises
(The Monet & her sister ship) which
I have been enamored with for a
while.

Rhea: I'm going to Croatia solo in late September also, maybe we can meet up. E-mail me at [email protected] if you're interested.

In September 2004 a friend and I took the Vantage Tours' 15-day tour, which included multiple cities along the coast, plus Slovenia and a day trip to Montenegro. I don't usually do tours, but since I had to find Croatia on the map when my friend suggested it, this was the best way to go for us. I honestly don't think I could drive the winding coastal roads; at least I know I couldn't drive and take photos at the same time! This was a vacation I will never forget; the sheer physical beauty of the area was stunning. The color of the Adriatic cannot be described; the people were wonderful; our young college educated guide a delight; the food mostly good if not gourmet (after all each place was feeding 40 people at one sitting). Only the hotel in Zadar was a bit shabby. We had a home visit included at which the hostess had grown, raised, pickled, etc., every part of the meal. I came home raving about the country to anyone who would listen. I hope to revisit at some point, but, if not, there are my 1000 some photos!

sfmaster:
We took two children aged ten all through Europe in 2003, including Croatia. Croatia is incredibly kid friendly...especially on the coast with the beaches and the beautiful little islands.

The ferry from Ancona was an overnight ferry...a cabin would be a must, imho. We missed our ferry from Bari to Dubrovnik and therefore lost our cabin reservation. There wasn't another ferry for three days, so we ended up taking a train to Ancona and catching the ferry there. Since it was high season we couldn't get a cabin and unlike Greek ferries there really were no places to sit except in the restaurants or out on the very misty deck. The deck chairs were those white plastic stacking chairs...not great for a family. Many people on the ferry came prepared with sleeping bags and pads and just camped out in the hallways. We huddled on the floor with my two pashminas as blankets. It was an interesting misadventure to be sure! The silver lining was taking the bus along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik. It was so beautiful.

Our kids, by the way, were real troopers on the ferry. They just saw it as a big adventure.

Anyone planning a trip to croatia might find some useful information on my web page describing our trip there in 2003.
Here's the URL.

http://www.travel.stv77.com/croatia/croatia.htm

a good website for info & travl
www.visit-croatia.co.uk

www.travetimeny.com didn't work. Any other suggestions on what OP used?

To tcreath:

We flew from Cincinnati to Frankfurt on Delta and from Frankfurt to Split on Croatian Airlines. On the way home we flew out of Dubrovnik to Frankfurt.

To janeg:

www.traveltimeny.com should work. I heard about them in Budget Travel magazine, and that is the website they give.

To: xyz99

Travel Time arranged flights, hotels, and hotel transfers. We only had to find our own way from the ferry...not difficult at all...especially in Hvar...we could walk to our hotel. However, for the ferry to Dubrovnik, we had to leave from Stari Gard on Hvar...about a 15 minute bus ride.

To: MarthaT

Thanks for the tip about not liking the Park Hotel in Split. There aren't a lot of hotels there. I'd be interested if anyone found one they liked in the city center.

One other note of general information:

Almost everyone spoke English. However, if you have an interest in learning a few words, go to www.travlang.com The website gives basic words in every language there is and it's nice to know a few phrases.

http://www.traveltimeny.com/

this worked 5 sec ago

sssteve:

What a great website!! I wish we would have seen it before we went to Croatia....very helpful and informative.

ah ha, Rhea left out the "l" in website in her --'Note to xyz99: Url is travetimeny.com'
i shall try traveltimeny.com

Tcreath - Check out www.europebyair.com for $99 airfare from Rome to Split. You can also fly from Brussels to Split for the same price if that works for you. It may be cheaper than trying to make that connection to Split. We're planning on being in Croatia next summer and love all the travellers' suggestions. Keep 'em coming! Lisa

Hello salt777
I am going to visit Dubrovnic in 9 to 15 May 2006. I am going to stay in Mlini with my sister. We are 55 and 50 years old. My sister has a little breath problem and therefor can't climb to much. I have reserved a room in a house near the port of Mlini. Could you tell me anything about Mlini, the ferry boat and bus to and from Dubrovnic and Cavtat. Here I give you my scedule from my indended trip to Croatia next year. Maybe you can give me some advice. 5 days near Split in a village called Postrana. Then we are planned to go by boat to Dubrovnic staying in Mlini for 6 days. From there we have to go north and I think I want to spend a day or three in Trogir. From there we want to go for about three days in Zadar and then we have to by bus to Zagreb to catch our flight back to Amsterdam.
I hope you will reply.
Kind regards
Anisa

Went to Croatia in Sept, and loved it too. ATM`s were everywhrere, but nobody wanted to take traveler`s checks. Don`t bother to get them.

Anisa,

We stayed at the Asterea Hotel in Mlini in September of 2004 for a few days. Also in the Villa Adriatica just outside the Pile Gate. The Adriatica was more convenient, but we found Mlini charming and convenient, too. There was one restaurent in town, just by the sea, that has a huge grape vine growing in the center of the dining area that climbs through the roof to cover much of the outside of the building. They serve an egg dish -- sort of an omelette -- that is to die for.

"Mlini" means "mill" for the numerous water powered mills that were once placed at the bottom of every stream that tumbled down the cliff. As you can imagine, the village is built into the mountainside, so I would enquire of your landlord as to the number of stairs to your apartment from the beach. Could be a problem for your Sister.

There is a lovely seaside walk that runs North along the seashore from the Astarea complex. Delightful to stroll along to the other villages, but again a bit of up and down.

One can take the bus into Dubrovnik, but it is a rather steep climb from the Asterea to the main road, so I would suggest the water taxi. These small (15-20 pasenger launches) depart frequently up and down the coast. It was about a 20 minute ride from the harbor in Mlini to the old harbor at Dubrovnik, and a similar distance going South to Cavtat. Cost was nominal.

It is a lovely way to approach the old town in Dubrovnik; from the sea. Weather was usually calm in September, and the boats go slowly, so there is no problem with motion sickness. I strongly recommend you take the time to take the water taxi to Cavtat. The prominade along the sea front is lovely. You can sit in a quai-side cafe, sip a coffee and read while watching the yachts pull in, while waiting for the next launch back to Mlini or to Dubrovnik.

I'm sure you realize that Dubrovnik has almost no place that does not require climbing steps, except for the Strada. However, I'm in my 70's and have a breath problem too. Just take your time, and plan to take longer to make the journey around the walls than the youngsters. Anyway, it allows all sorts of excuses for stopping for a gelato.

Have a wonderful trip.

:-)

Bookmarking so I can find this thread again in the future...

salt -

Thanks for the interesting report.

I am not clear as to what 'package deal' Travel Time provided. Was it air and hotel only? Transfers? Did you make your own local tour arrangements when you got there? ((R))

To Anisa

I don't think you'll have to climb too much in Mlini. If the port you are talking about is where they have the water taxi, you will have no problem at all. (I don't recall whether or not I saw any other area that was the port.) A walk toward the Asterea Hotel is very flat and has a few nice places to stop for a drink or snack. There is a nice walk through a park in the other direction, but it does have some hills. We loved Mlini. It was so quiet and relaxing after a hectic day of sightseeing. The ferries run about every half hour to 45 minutes to either Dubrovnik or Cavtat and don't cost very much. Please do not miss Cavtat. In fact, plan to spend some time there. The food is great and the shopping is good. The views there are wonderful. The only real climb would be if you chose to go to the Mausoleum, otherwise, the walking area is flat. There are also many places just to sit and relax and watch everything....nice leisurely day.

If you find the weather is not good for the water taxi, you might try to call the Asterea Hotel. When we stayed there, they had a driver who would take you to Old Town and pick you up later. I think it cost about $10 and I don't know if the service is limited to hotel guests or not. I would definitely take the water taxi..much more fun and great views.

Hope this helps

To Jed:

Our package deal through Travel Time included air, hotel and transfers. We also received the names of travel agents in each city that were recommended by Travel Time. The people who met us in each city were just great and quite helpful. Not all day tours run every day so you might want to check as soon as you get to each city just so you can plan your stay. Also, one of our problems was not having an ATM card and expecting that tour agencies would use credit cards. They don't and so we had to miss out on a few. Another person wrote that Traveller's Checques were difficult to use. We didn't have any problem with them at banks, but I think on our next trip to Croatia, we will definitely have an ATM card.

We were in Croatia in Sept, and nobody wanted to take travellers checks. We had no problems using the ATMs that were everywhere. I was sitting on a bench at a lake and I could see 4 ATM`s all connected to banks. No problems with credit cards either.