Trip Report-Rome,Tuscany,Venice with a lot of gelato on the way/ Part One
May 31st, 2008, 12:08 PM
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Trip Report-Rome,Tuscany,Venice with a lot of gelato on the way/ Part One
Thanks for all the help I continue to receive here when planning trips! Although I have been to Italy numerous times, this was my brother's first trip and was all we both expected it to be.
Where we went and where we stayed:
ROME-3 nights at Giulia Gold apartment on Via Giulia (through Sleep in Italy)
PIENA-3 nights at Fonte Bertusi
SAN GEMIGNANO-2 nights at Hotel Bel Soggiorno
RADDA IN CHIANTI-2 nights at Hotel Palazzo San Niccolo
VENICE-3 nights at Al Ponte Mocenigo
We enjoyed all the places we stayed but in different ways since they each offered something unique. The Rome apartment was much larger than it appears on the Sleep in Italy website but the bed that is in the living room is a single cot and not a larger pull out couch. The living room is very large as is the bedroom. It was a beautiful apartment in a wonderful location. All went smoothly and Fabio, who let us in, was very helpful and friendly. Via Giulia itself is a joy and the surrounding neighborhood is fun to explore. It isn't far to walk to all the major attractions in Rome (Trevi and The Spanish Steps were swarming with people and Via Giulia provided a nice escape!)
Fonte Bertusi was absolutely terrific. Thanks to Zoecat, I had decided to go there and it was even better than expected---and I even got to deliver an in person thanks since she was our next door neighbor! Manuela and Andrea are delightful hosts as are the parents----it is a warm, happy place with cozy, attractively decorated apartments. The location, between Pienza and San Quirico is unbelieveably beautiful so thanks to all of you who swooned about the Val D'Orcia. Unfortunately, although I had printed out Stu Dudley's driving route, all the light he described escaped us since our weather in Pienza was mainly cloudy and cool. I can't wait to go back again!!
My brother had wanted to go to Pisa so I thought San Gemignano would be a sensible 2 night base. Very touristy but fine in the evening and early in the morning. Our room, at the Hotel Bel Soggiorno had a drop dead magnificent view over the countryside. It rained some while we were there and at dinner,(restaurant and gelato descriptions in the next post!)we saw 3 rainbows.
The Hotel Palazzo San Niccolo in Radda was also a fine choice---Radda is small, attractive, quiet. As pretty as Chianti is, I had already left my heart in Pienza and loved the countryside more there than the hills and green trees of Chianti.
I had been in Venice at the end of August last year and had stayed at Al Ponte Mocenigo. It was like returning to see an old friend. I absolutely love the hotel and the neighborhood (Santa Croce by the San Stae stop on the vaperetto). Again, like Via Giulia, it is away from the crowds and much more filled with locals.
I had debated taking the train out of Rome to Chuisi or Orvieto but decided to gamble and rent it in Rome at the Borghese location (Auto Europe--EuropeCar). The directions from SlowTrav were excellent (read them before and try to keep staying to the right---there is one area that is a tad confusing but it is easy to turn around if you go a little the wrong way....the map they give you has all the streets marked and is easy to follow).
Where we went and where we stayed:
ROME-3 nights at Giulia Gold apartment on Via Giulia (through Sleep in Italy)
PIENA-3 nights at Fonte Bertusi
SAN GEMIGNANO-2 nights at Hotel Bel Soggiorno
RADDA IN CHIANTI-2 nights at Hotel Palazzo San Niccolo
VENICE-3 nights at Al Ponte Mocenigo
We enjoyed all the places we stayed but in different ways since they each offered something unique. The Rome apartment was much larger than it appears on the Sleep in Italy website but the bed that is in the living room is a single cot and not a larger pull out couch. The living room is very large as is the bedroom. It was a beautiful apartment in a wonderful location. All went smoothly and Fabio, who let us in, was very helpful and friendly. Via Giulia itself is a joy and the surrounding neighborhood is fun to explore. It isn't far to walk to all the major attractions in Rome (Trevi and The Spanish Steps were swarming with people and Via Giulia provided a nice escape!)
Fonte Bertusi was absolutely terrific. Thanks to Zoecat, I had decided to go there and it was even better than expected---and I even got to deliver an in person thanks since she was our next door neighbor! Manuela and Andrea are delightful hosts as are the parents----it is a warm, happy place with cozy, attractively decorated apartments. The location, between Pienza and San Quirico is unbelieveably beautiful so thanks to all of you who swooned about the Val D'Orcia. Unfortunately, although I had printed out Stu Dudley's driving route, all the light he described escaped us since our weather in Pienza was mainly cloudy and cool. I can't wait to go back again!!
My brother had wanted to go to Pisa so I thought San Gemignano would be a sensible 2 night base. Very touristy but fine in the evening and early in the morning. Our room, at the Hotel Bel Soggiorno had a drop dead magnificent view over the countryside. It rained some while we were there and at dinner,(restaurant and gelato descriptions in the next post!)we saw 3 rainbows.
The Hotel Palazzo San Niccolo in Radda was also a fine choice---Radda is small, attractive, quiet. As pretty as Chianti is, I had already left my heart in Pienza and loved the countryside more there than the hills and green trees of Chianti.
I had been in Venice at the end of August last year and had stayed at Al Ponte Mocenigo. It was like returning to see an old friend. I absolutely love the hotel and the neighborhood (Santa Croce by the San Stae stop on the vaperetto). Again, like Via Giulia, it is away from the crowds and much more filled with locals.
I had debated taking the train out of Rome to Chuisi or Orvieto but decided to gamble and rent it in Rome at the Borghese location (Auto Europe--EuropeCar). The directions from SlowTrav were excellent (read them before and try to keep staying to the right---there is one area that is a tad confusing but it is easy to turn around if you go a little the wrong way....the map they give you has all the streets marked and is easy to follow).
Jun 1st, 2008, 12:06 PM
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Happy to keep it all on this post instead of doing a Part Two....
I'll do another post about restaurants and gelato but can give a few tips here/things I learned or did in advance and was really happy I did so!
ROME SHUTTLE
I had seen here that many people used this ervice and seemed pleased. Add me to that list. We arrived a little late but the driver was waiting for us when we came out of arrivals. For 35e (we added a good tip since he used his cell phone to call our apartment rental), it was a good value.
VATICAN TOUR
I used the email, also found on this site, and contacted the Vatican directly. Received a confirmation the next day for the 10:30am tour on the date we selected. I printed it out to take with me, carefully put it in my bag before leaving our apartment but then it gets fuzzy---
When we arrived at the place at the Vatican for the tour lines, I didn't have the confirmation email and they did not have our name on the list for the tour. They checked several times, went inside to check there and kept coming back saying our name was not on the list (and therefore, we were out of luck). I wasn't hysterical but I also wasn't my most calm self! Then the lightbulb went off and I realized I could find an Internet point (as they are called), look up the email confirmation on my email, print it out and race back. Did just that and made it back with a few minutes to spare before the tour was to start! It was an excellent tour and well worth my frantic efforts (the head person was very embarrased that we were indeed confirmed and they had no record of it). We had considered a small group tour but doing it this way was exactly what we were looking for and did not cost that much extra---they show the price online.
ANGEL TOURS-Forum/Colosseum
I have no basis for comparison since I didn't use RomeWalks or Context Tours for anything else but enjoyed the tour. It seemed that our guide was knowledgeable, had a good sense of humor, and was good at answering questions. The group size was under 12 and easy to manage with getting around. I'd recommend them.
TIPS
I have to say I find the tipping in Italy totally baffling. Some books/sites say to tip 10%, others say to tips some coins, others say to only tip if the service is exceptional. I could never decide so went with the 10% and have no idea if that is the norm or not! If it was a really nice place, we left a bit more. On the credit card receipt there was no space for a tip so it was always cash expcept in rare instances.
Via Michelin Online Driving Routes and the Italy Touring Club Tuscany Map
Couldn't have done without either. The map had the small roads and gave up the opportunity to drive around---but also get back!
GUIDEBOOKS
Many people here recommend the 10Best Tuscany book and with good reason. Not only did it have interesting sights to see, many of the restaurants and shops were good.
I really like the Access series for Rome, Florence, Venice but their maps are not that great outisde of the exact area you are walking in....I used the StreetWise Venice last year and again on this trip and like it since it shows the smaller streets, especially handy in Venice! The Fodors and Frommers maps were fairly useless.
SANT ANTIMO
We were in Southern Tuscany on a Sunday so decided to take the short srive to the abbey. We thought the Gregorian chants were at 12:30 so tried to get there in time to hear them, not for religious reasons but for the experience. Well worth it---a really intertsing experience and a lovely setting.
FLORENCE-UFFIZI/ACCADEMIA
I called the phone numbers that were listed on this site and it was easy to do. Upon getting to each museum, I gave them the confirmation number (written in 3 different places so I wouldn't lose it this time!). For both, we were able to get in earlier than our confirmation times even though the lines were long for both museums. I had booked times based on how long I thought it would take us to drive from Florence from Radda.....
and that leads to another thing
PARKING
We were able to find a good public parking lot outised of Florence, across the Arno in Oltrarno. It was a nice walk into Florence, past the Pitti Palace and over the Ponte Vecchio.
I'll do another post about restaurants and gelato but can give a few tips here/things I learned or did in advance and was really happy I did so!
ROME SHUTTLE
I had seen here that many people used this ervice and seemed pleased. Add me to that list. We arrived a little late but the driver was waiting for us when we came out of arrivals. For 35e (we added a good tip since he used his cell phone to call our apartment rental), it was a good value.
VATICAN TOUR
I used the email, also found on this site, and contacted the Vatican directly. Received a confirmation the next day for the 10:30am tour on the date we selected. I printed it out to take with me, carefully put it in my bag before leaving our apartment but then it gets fuzzy---
When we arrived at the place at the Vatican for the tour lines, I didn't have the confirmation email and they did not have our name on the list for the tour. They checked several times, went inside to check there and kept coming back saying our name was not on the list (and therefore, we were out of luck). I wasn't hysterical but I also wasn't my most calm self! Then the lightbulb went off and I realized I could find an Internet point (as they are called), look up the email confirmation on my email, print it out and race back. Did just that and made it back with a few minutes to spare before the tour was to start! It was an excellent tour and well worth my frantic efforts (the head person was very embarrased that we were indeed confirmed and they had no record of it). We had considered a small group tour but doing it this way was exactly what we were looking for and did not cost that much extra---they show the price online.
ANGEL TOURS-Forum/Colosseum
I have no basis for comparison since I didn't use RomeWalks or Context Tours for anything else but enjoyed the tour. It seemed that our guide was knowledgeable, had a good sense of humor, and was good at answering questions. The group size was under 12 and easy to manage with getting around. I'd recommend them.
TIPS
I have to say I find the tipping in Italy totally baffling. Some books/sites say to tip 10%, others say to tips some coins, others say to only tip if the service is exceptional. I could never decide so went with the 10% and have no idea if that is the norm or not! If it was a really nice place, we left a bit more. On the credit card receipt there was no space for a tip so it was always cash expcept in rare instances.
Via Michelin Online Driving Routes and the Italy Touring Club Tuscany Map
Couldn't have done without either. The map had the small roads and gave up the opportunity to drive around---but also get back!
GUIDEBOOKS
Many people here recommend the 10Best Tuscany book and with good reason. Not only did it have interesting sights to see, many of the restaurants and shops were good.
I really like the Access series for Rome, Florence, Venice but their maps are not that great outisde of the exact area you are walking in....I used the StreetWise Venice last year and again on this trip and like it since it shows the smaller streets, especially handy in Venice! The Fodors and Frommers maps were fairly useless.
SANT ANTIMO
We were in Southern Tuscany on a Sunday so decided to take the short srive to the abbey. We thought the Gregorian chants were at 12:30 so tried to get there in time to hear them, not for religious reasons but for the experience. Well worth it---a really intertsing experience and a lovely setting.
FLORENCE-UFFIZI/ACCADEMIA
I called the phone numbers that were listed on this site and it was easy to do. Upon getting to each museum, I gave them the confirmation number (written in 3 different places so I wouldn't lose it this time!). For both, we were able to get in earlier than our confirmation times even though the lines were long for both museums. I had booked times based on how long I thought it would take us to drive from Florence from Radda.....
and that leads to another thing
PARKING
We were able to find a good public parking lot outised of Florence, across the Arno in Oltrarno. It was a nice walk into Florence, past the Pitti Palace and over the Ponte Vecchio.
Jun 1st, 2008, 03:42 PM
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Great Report Kathryn, very intrested because we are booked into Giulia Gold for our trip in October so was really pleased to hear it is lovely. I too will be using the suggested websites, emails for booking the Vatican and phone numbers for Florence museums so its great to hear first hand others experiences, especially good ones, smart thinking regarding the Vatican!! Looking forward to the rest of your report. Is there anything else you can pass on about the apartment in Rome and which Rome shuttle company did you use? Thanks
Jun 1st, 2008, 04:36 PM
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Mariebut,
Glad the report is helpful! The Rome shuttle is actually, www.romeshuttle.com. The apartment is lovely---the bedroom has a large bed, either king or queen but, as I mentioned, the other sleeping space is a single cot in the living room. The living room has 2 or 3 couches and is very comfortable--lighting is a little dim though. The TV only has Italian channels if that matters to you. We had the shuttle driver call to confirm our arrival and Fabio came to show us in---he is a really nice young man with an adorable 2 year daughter named Giulia. It really is considerably larger than it appears on the website and, wow, the street. I just loved it and could live there! We went a different dire4ction until our last morning when we saw (duh), the good neighborhood coffee place---I think it is 84 Via Giulia. Make sure to visit the Sardinain store at the other end---I think it's around 195---I walked the whole street and enjoyed poking around (there is a design store at 92 or 95 that was featured in one of my travel magazines). Lucky you to go there!
Istamu,
There were 2 couples in the unit next to ours and it looked lovely from the outside. Many people on this site think the Val D'Orcia is the prettiest part of Tuscany and this particular location is simply beautiful. Enjoy and let me knoiw if there is any other info that would be helpful to you.
Kathy
Glad the report is helpful! The Rome shuttle is actually, www.romeshuttle.com. The apartment is lovely---the bedroom has a large bed, either king or queen but, as I mentioned, the other sleeping space is a single cot in the living room. The living room has 2 or 3 couches and is very comfortable--lighting is a little dim though. The TV only has Italian channels if that matters to you. We had the shuttle driver call to confirm our arrival and Fabio came to show us in---he is a really nice young man with an adorable 2 year daughter named Giulia. It really is considerably larger than it appears on the website and, wow, the street. I just loved it and could live there! We went a different dire4ction until our last morning when we saw (duh), the good neighborhood coffee place---I think it is 84 Via Giulia. Make sure to visit the Sardinain store at the other end---I think it's around 195---I walked the whole street and enjoyed poking around (there is a design store at 92 or 95 that was featured in one of my travel magazines). Lucky you to go there!
Istamu,
There were 2 couples in the unit next to ours and it looked lovely from the outside. Many people on this site think the Val D'Orcia is the prettiest part of Tuscany and this particular location is simply beautiful. Enjoy and let me knoiw if there is any other info that would be helpful to you.
Kathy
Jun 3rd, 2008, 12:29 PM
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Thanks all---you guys are inspiring me to get the rest of my report up.....
Since I titled this one, Part One, I may do a Part Two with restaurants and gelato, etc----or is it better to keep it all on one post as one poster advised??? Help!
Kathy
Since I titled this one, Part One, I may do a Part Two with restaurants and gelato, etc----or is it better to keep it all on one post as one poster advised??? Help!
Kathy
Jun 3rd, 2008, 02:38 PM
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We booked Fonte Bertusi today outside of Pienza for the middle of October for 3 nights. We are so excited! Thanks for your suggestion. If you have anymore let us know. We will be going to the Cinque Terre and then to Venice. Unfortunately, the hotel in you stayed in in Venice was booked but we're working on it. Any suggestions for restuarants etc. would be welcomed too. Thanks Jane
Jun 3rd, 2008, 03:49 PM
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Jane,
Lucky you to be going there! I am having recurring fantasies about returning this fall.......
As far as restaurants in Venice, we only ended up eating near our hotel in Santa Croce. I did like La Zucca since you can also walk over to Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio to see all the families out before dinner. Highly recommended!
I'll be posting restaurants in the next day or two so it will give you some ideas in Pienza as well as Venice.
I actually reversed our trip and did Rome at the beginning to get space at Al Ponte Mocenigo when they were booked for our origal dates!
Kathy
Ellenm---
Will do as you suggest! Thanks.
Lucky you to be going there! I am having recurring fantasies about returning this fall.......
As far as restaurants in Venice, we only ended up eating near our hotel in Santa Croce. I did like La Zucca since you can also walk over to Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio to see all the families out before dinner. Highly recommended!
I'll be posting restaurants in the next day or two so it will give you some ideas in Pienza as well as Venice.
I actually reversed our trip and did Rome at the beginning to get space at Al Ponte Mocenigo when they were booked for our origal dates!
Kathy
Ellenm---
Will do as you suggest! Thanks.
Jun 4th, 2008, 02:38 PM
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As advised, this is kind of a
Part Two
RESTAURANTS,GELATO, ETC
ROME, TUSCANY, VENICE
Right now I am trying to deal with my post-trip depression by re-visiting all this! My trips to the local grocey stores somehow are just not the same as the smells and sights of the Rialto market! Where are my fresh peas, my zucchini blossoms, my fresh tomatoes in all sizes, my......but I digress.....on to restaurants!
ROME
I researched places on this forum, chowhound, and a couple of other places. Since I was traveling with my brother who is not a foodie, I was looking more for good, solid, value places that we would both enjoy. I had a long list of potential places but only had 3 nights and wanted a degree of convenience to where we were staying, on Via Giulia.
AL POMPIERE
Neighbors of mine had been there and recommended it. Years ago I had eaten at Piperno and I liked the idea of something in the ghetto area. It filled the bill.
Since it was our first night, we were fine with going early to see if we could be seated---and we were. We had the zucchini blossoms appetizer as well as the fried artichoke (I had gotten that years ago, didn't like it so much then and didn't like it anymore now---it just seems like the thing you always hear to order!). Next was the pasta al limone---I can still taste it and really want it for dinner right this moment. A bottle of frascati, tiramisu (I am such a cliche) and we were on our way, happily satisfied.
The restaurant is a bit hard to find but people seem to know it and were able to guide us.
The next day was a Thursday which, I am not sure why, is gnocchi day in Rome.
ARMANDO AL PANTHEON
I emailed them from home for the reservation and it was easy to do. Fun place, friendly, filled, convenent to the Pantheon (duh)and easy to find.
The lambchops that everyone seems to recommend there were delicious as was the gnocchi, which we had along with a mixed vegetable appetizer.
Stopped for gelato at the place right across from the Pantheon---I really don't know its name but it is on the main street that leads to the Pantheon. I had hoped to hit all the Rome gelato places I had very carefully researched but this place was there, was good, and we returned a couple of times! Nocciole and bacio were my regular combos with cafe and coconut at times......
IL DROPPO
A really good dinner in an intimate, lovely restaurant---very pretty, cozy----the antithesis of a place like Armando Al Pantheon. We had roast suckling pig, baked grouper, prawns with fresh tomatoes on rocket, a ricotta ravioli and some fried type thing for dessert with honey (sorry for the horrible description), followed by 2 complimentary Sardinian almond paste cookies and a shot of myrtle liquer. A truly nice finish to the time in Rome. My only concern with the place was that there were so few people there----it seemed like the food warrated more diners so I don't know. It may also be that there are other areas where people go to dine and this was a bit off the beaten track.
We got taken $$$-wise at a place we had lunch at after visiting the Vatican. What can I say, we were tired, wanted to sit down, use a toilet, whatever. It was on the main street going to the Vatican and was a large place, self-service style. Ended up paying $50 for a horrible seafood salad which had looked like an antipasto salad. Moral of the story---if you plan to have lunch near the Vatican, know where to go and do not be impulsive there like we were!
Did have good gelato at Under the Bridge which is noted in some guidebooks. I also liked the gelato at Imperio del Gelato around Campo di Fiore.
PIENZA/SAN QUIRICO
Usually when staying in rural settings with friends, my travel style is to do daytrips then pick up things in local markets and cook dinners, have wine, enjoy the evening. With my brother though, we ate out all the time, 2 nights in Pienza and one in San Quirico.
I had a place in mind for Saturday night in Pienza but Manuela at Ponte Bertusu told me there was some sort of event in town and everything was packed for dinner. She advised us to go to San Quirico to dine at:
IL FORNO ANTICO
Charming place with wine bottles around, pub type feeling, fun, casual in a great little town. Started dinner with baked pecorino with chestnuts and chestnut honey on top of toasted croutons, then chicken stewed in brunello. Dessert was strawberries in merigue which sounded better than they turned out to be. Good dinner though.
Bought fresh pecorino, bread, proscuitto, amazing olive oil and melon for lunch the next 2 days and wish I could have it all right now. The pecorino in Pienza is truly amazing----got 2 types, one with truffles and another with herbs.
LATTE DE LUNA
I had seen this as "the" place to eat in Pienza so wanted to go there. It did not disappoint and turned out to be one of the best value meals costwise of the trip. I had the pici with cinghale--the wild boar ragu) and my brother had duck with olives (he had eaten the pici cinghale the night before---I brought home 4 jars since I certainly cannot find it here at home!). Again tiramisu and panna cotta with strawberries, insalata mista to start, inexpensive house wines. It deserves the praise it gets. A superb meal that didn't miss a beat.
But my favorite place came the next night, at the place Manuela said we needed to eat at for our last night in Pienza:
IL ROSSELLINO
I am a sucker for charming places and this little place, where a husband and wife do the cooking and you can hear them chopping food after you sit down and order, won my heart as well as my stomach.
We ate a lot of food---starting with an eggplant and cheese appetizer (split), pici with meat ragu (split), lamb for my brother, outstanding beef for me, 2 delicious desserts. It was both an excellent as well as delightful meal.
One thing I loved there was that a young British couple came in and asked if there was space. They were seated and he ordered a beer, and she a diet soda. They each had a pasta dish and when they were finished and paid, the husband (chef), came out to say a warm goodbye to them, treating them as if they had ordered a 6 course meal.
Even though I don't speak Italian, 2 diners did not know what farro was so when the Signora was trying to explain it to them, I offered an English translation. She was very greatful and also appreciated my demented efforts to pronouce some things in Italian. When it came time to leave, she gave me the 2 cheek kiss goodbye. I know this sounds silly and corny in describing but I absolutely loved it---and also know this is what I love most about Italy---that warmth and connection with the people.
IL POGGIO-Volterra
Just a fine, good lunch to get out of the rain--delicious farro soup and yummy pizza
IL PINO-San Gemignano
Another excellent value and delicious besides! Insalata mista, potato cake, pork chops, meat with truffles, a scallop and shrimp appetizer and......tiramisu dessert (I had to compare them all, like gelato....)The restaurant has a nice formail-ish but warm atmosphere
Lucca had my favorite gelato place---it was on the square and had my 2 favorite flavors at that point (they kept shifting)----almond and gianduia). Perfect.
TERRACE RESTAURANT/CISTERNA-San Gemignano
We had almost stayed at this hotel but had gotten a much better rate at our place but the restaurant was supposed to be good so, decided to go there. Another excellent, well priced meal. Homemade duck ravioli in saffron and cream tomato sauce, salad with rocket, pecorino and artichokes, spelt pasta and cinghale sauce.
It had rained much of the day. The restaurant had a magnificent view over the countryside and we saw 3 rainbows. Wow.
Gelato for dessert in the terrific gelato place in San Gemignano---clearly marked as "World's Best". Great combo of nutella and nocciolone---could be another favorite......
RELAIS VIGNALE-Radda in Chianti
Another winner, starting with duck terrine, salad, roast lamb, roast veal (not for the same person!)chocolate-marron dessert (can you tell by now that I like chestnuts, hazelnuts and chocolate?)
CAFFE BIGALLO-Florence
Go figure, in this little cafe I had a memorable meal---tiny fresh clams and spaghetti.
Earlier in Florence, stopped at Gelateria Carabe which I had seen in some books and which we walked right past when at the Accademia. Different gelato since it is Sicilian and apparently does not use eggs like other Italian gelato does. Very good.
AL PONTE-Venice
OK pasta with clams, zucchini flowers, roast chicken and potatoes for my brother but I love it there anyhow. Right on a small canal near the wonderful Campo San Giacomo dell 'Orio. Classic people watching and I will go there again next time too since it is so much fun.
AE OCHE-Venice/Gelato
Good pizza for lunch---went to the one near Nico where I had great gelato. Also had terrific gelato at Gelateria Il Doge
IL MURO-Venice
I expected a better meal here. We had a negligent waiter with an attitude which didn't help. Excellent steak, really, really good but the homemade orchiette with turnip tops also had another pasta in it, which didn't seem to fit at all. Strange, like serving a fusilli and rigatoni in one dish!
San Stae gelati-Venice
A frequent, regular stop. Worked just fine for me!
LA ZUCCA-Venice
In almost every guide book. Fun, good location, good food. Exquisite taglietelle with gorgonzola and pistachios, vegetarian plate with a variety of vegetables (basically a vegetarian restaurant with lots of additional choices---my brother had chicken).
GELATO FINALE
In my quest for the best Venice gelateria, I read that one had chunks of homemade meringue gelato, a flavor I had once before in either Venice or Dubrovik last year. So....we hiked around Cannaregio to find it, carefully looking at my maps, turning on all the right streets and finding it! Only to find a sign that said it was closed on Wednesday (in Italian). Problem was---it was Monday. I went to the cafe across the street and they said, yes, they are closed. It really was Monday. They are closed Wednesday.
I tried to make an adjustment and although I was unable to find my meringue, I did find Carlo and the wonderful Alaska gelato place in Santa Croce which I had read about but never sought out before.
Whew, that's all folks. Hope this rambling about restaurants and gelato in Italy helps someone!
Kathy
Part Two
RESTAURANTS,GELATO, ETC
ROME, TUSCANY, VENICE
Right now I am trying to deal with my post-trip depression by re-visiting all this! My trips to the local grocey stores somehow are just not the same as the smells and sights of the Rialto market! Where are my fresh peas, my zucchini blossoms, my fresh tomatoes in all sizes, my......but I digress.....on to restaurants!
ROME
I researched places on this forum, chowhound, and a couple of other places. Since I was traveling with my brother who is not a foodie, I was looking more for good, solid, value places that we would both enjoy. I had a long list of potential places but only had 3 nights and wanted a degree of convenience to where we were staying, on Via Giulia.
AL POMPIERE
Neighbors of mine had been there and recommended it. Years ago I had eaten at Piperno and I liked the idea of something in the ghetto area. It filled the bill.
Since it was our first night, we were fine with going early to see if we could be seated---and we were. We had the zucchini blossoms appetizer as well as the fried artichoke (I had gotten that years ago, didn't like it so much then and didn't like it anymore now---it just seems like the thing you always hear to order!). Next was the pasta al limone---I can still taste it and really want it for dinner right this moment. A bottle of frascati, tiramisu (I am such a cliche) and we were on our way, happily satisfied.
The restaurant is a bit hard to find but people seem to know it and were able to guide us.
The next day was a Thursday which, I am not sure why, is gnocchi day in Rome.
ARMANDO AL PANTHEON
I emailed them from home for the reservation and it was easy to do. Fun place, friendly, filled, convenent to the Pantheon (duh)and easy to find.
The lambchops that everyone seems to recommend there were delicious as was the gnocchi, which we had along with a mixed vegetable appetizer.
Stopped for gelato at the place right across from the Pantheon---I really don't know its name but it is on the main street that leads to the Pantheon. I had hoped to hit all the Rome gelato places I had very carefully researched but this place was there, was good, and we returned a couple of times! Nocciole and bacio were my regular combos with cafe and coconut at times......
IL DROPPO
A really good dinner in an intimate, lovely restaurant---very pretty, cozy----the antithesis of a place like Armando Al Pantheon. We had roast suckling pig, baked grouper, prawns with fresh tomatoes on rocket, a ricotta ravioli and some fried type thing for dessert with honey (sorry for the horrible description), followed by 2 complimentary Sardinian almond paste cookies and a shot of myrtle liquer. A truly nice finish to the time in Rome. My only concern with the place was that there were so few people there----it seemed like the food warrated more diners so I don't know. It may also be that there are other areas where people go to dine and this was a bit off the beaten track.
We got taken $$$-wise at a place we had lunch at after visiting the Vatican. What can I say, we were tired, wanted to sit down, use a toilet, whatever. It was on the main street going to the Vatican and was a large place, self-service style. Ended up paying $50 for a horrible seafood salad which had looked like an antipasto salad. Moral of the story---if you plan to have lunch near the Vatican, know where to go and do not be impulsive there like we were!
Did have good gelato at Under the Bridge which is noted in some guidebooks. I also liked the gelato at Imperio del Gelato around Campo di Fiore.
PIENZA/SAN QUIRICO
Usually when staying in rural settings with friends, my travel style is to do daytrips then pick up things in local markets and cook dinners, have wine, enjoy the evening. With my brother though, we ate out all the time, 2 nights in Pienza and one in San Quirico.
I had a place in mind for Saturday night in Pienza but Manuela at Ponte Bertusu told me there was some sort of event in town and everything was packed for dinner. She advised us to go to San Quirico to dine at:
IL FORNO ANTICO
Charming place with wine bottles around, pub type feeling, fun, casual in a great little town. Started dinner with baked pecorino with chestnuts and chestnut honey on top of toasted croutons, then chicken stewed in brunello. Dessert was strawberries in merigue which sounded better than they turned out to be. Good dinner though.
Bought fresh pecorino, bread, proscuitto, amazing olive oil and melon for lunch the next 2 days and wish I could have it all right now. The pecorino in Pienza is truly amazing----got 2 types, one with truffles and another with herbs.
LATTE DE LUNA
I had seen this as "the" place to eat in Pienza so wanted to go there. It did not disappoint and turned out to be one of the best value meals costwise of the trip. I had the pici with cinghale--the wild boar ragu) and my brother had duck with olives (he had eaten the pici cinghale the night before---I brought home 4 jars since I certainly cannot find it here at home!). Again tiramisu and panna cotta with strawberries, insalata mista to start, inexpensive house wines. It deserves the praise it gets. A superb meal that didn't miss a beat.
But my favorite place came the next night, at the place Manuela said we needed to eat at for our last night in Pienza:
IL ROSSELLINO
I am a sucker for charming places and this little place, where a husband and wife do the cooking and you can hear them chopping food after you sit down and order, won my heart as well as my stomach.
We ate a lot of food---starting with an eggplant and cheese appetizer (split), pici with meat ragu (split), lamb for my brother, outstanding beef for me, 2 delicious desserts. It was both an excellent as well as delightful meal.
One thing I loved there was that a young British couple came in and asked if there was space. They were seated and he ordered a beer, and she a diet soda. They each had a pasta dish and when they were finished and paid, the husband (chef), came out to say a warm goodbye to them, treating them as if they had ordered a 6 course meal.
Even though I don't speak Italian, 2 diners did not know what farro was so when the Signora was trying to explain it to them, I offered an English translation. She was very greatful and also appreciated my demented efforts to pronouce some things in Italian. When it came time to leave, she gave me the 2 cheek kiss goodbye. I know this sounds silly and corny in describing but I absolutely loved it---and also know this is what I love most about Italy---that warmth and connection with the people.
IL POGGIO-Volterra
Just a fine, good lunch to get out of the rain--delicious farro soup and yummy pizza
IL PINO-San Gemignano
Another excellent value and delicious besides! Insalata mista, potato cake, pork chops, meat with truffles, a scallop and shrimp appetizer and......tiramisu dessert (I had to compare them all, like gelato....)The restaurant has a nice formail-ish but warm atmosphere
Lucca had my favorite gelato place---it was on the square and had my 2 favorite flavors at that point (they kept shifting)----almond and gianduia). Perfect.
TERRACE RESTAURANT/CISTERNA-San Gemignano
We had almost stayed at this hotel but had gotten a much better rate at our place but the restaurant was supposed to be good so, decided to go there. Another excellent, well priced meal. Homemade duck ravioli in saffron and cream tomato sauce, salad with rocket, pecorino and artichokes, spelt pasta and cinghale sauce.
It had rained much of the day. The restaurant had a magnificent view over the countryside and we saw 3 rainbows. Wow.
Gelato for dessert in the terrific gelato place in San Gemignano---clearly marked as "World's Best". Great combo of nutella and nocciolone---could be another favorite......
RELAIS VIGNALE-Radda in Chianti
Another winner, starting with duck terrine, salad, roast lamb, roast veal (not for the same person!)chocolate-marron dessert (can you tell by now that I like chestnuts, hazelnuts and chocolate?)
CAFFE BIGALLO-Florence
Go figure, in this little cafe I had a memorable meal---tiny fresh clams and spaghetti.
Earlier in Florence, stopped at Gelateria Carabe which I had seen in some books and which we walked right past when at the Accademia. Different gelato since it is Sicilian and apparently does not use eggs like other Italian gelato does. Very good.
AL PONTE-Venice
OK pasta with clams, zucchini flowers, roast chicken and potatoes for my brother but I love it there anyhow. Right on a small canal near the wonderful Campo San Giacomo dell 'Orio. Classic people watching and I will go there again next time too since it is so much fun.
AE OCHE-Venice/Gelato
Good pizza for lunch---went to the one near Nico where I had great gelato. Also had terrific gelato at Gelateria Il Doge
IL MURO-Venice
I expected a better meal here. We had a negligent waiter with an attitude which didn't help. Excellent steak, really, really good but the homemade orchiette with turnip tops also had another pasta in it, which didn't seem to fit at all. Strange, like serving a fusilli and rigatoni in one dish!
San Stae gelati-Venice
A frequent, regular stop. Worked just fine for me!
LA ZUCCA-Venice
In almost every guide book. Fun, good location, good food. Exquisite taglietelle with gorgonzola and pistachios, vegetarian plate with a variety of vegetables (basically a vegetarian restaurant with lots of additional choices---my brother had chicken).
GELATO FINALE
In my quest for the best Venice gelateria, I read that one had chunks of homemade meringue gelato, a flavor I had once before in either Venice or Dubrovik last year. So....we hiked around Cannaregio to find it, carefully looking at my maps, turning on all the right streets and finding it! Only to find a sign that said it was closed on Wednesday (in Italian). Problem was---it was Monday. I went to the cafe across the street and they said, yes, they are closed. It really was Monday. They are closed Wednesday.
I tried to make an adjustment and although I was unable to find my meringue, I did find Carlo and the wonderful Alaska gelato place in Santa Croce which I had read about but never sought out before.
Whew, that's all folks. Hope this rambling about restaurants and gelato in Italy helps someone!
Kathy
Jun 4th, 2008, 07:07 PM
#20
Thanks, Kathy. I am heading back to Rome with my mom next Christmas. Like your brother, she is not an adventurous eater. So your recs definitely help. I was at Armando al Pantheon (with my sister strangely enough) years ago. Glad to hear it's still a good choice in the center.
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