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Trip Report Prague March 2013

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Trip Report Prague March 2013

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Old Mar 13th, 2013, 04:28 PM
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Trip Report Prague March 2013

Prague Trip Report
March 13, 2013
Day 1
“The streets of Prague were a fantasia scarcely touched by the twenty-first century - or the twentieth or nineteenth, for that matter. It was a city of alchemists and dreams, its medieval cobbles once trod by golems, mystics, invading armies.”
― Laini Taylor, Daughter of Smoke & Bone

A rowdy and rambunctious shout out from Prague, Czech Republic from your dear traveling comrades- Frank and Brooke. We arrived here after an easy and uneventful 20 hours of travel. As we made our presence into Prague, we were flanked by snowy hills and gray sky. A balmy temperature of 28 degrees slapped us in our weary faces as our breath made s shaped plumes. We are staying at the beautiful K+K Hotel, smack in the thriving epicenter of Prague. http://www.kkhotels.com/en/hotels/pr...ntral/welcome/ . The hotel is a beautiful, ornate , hotel, renovated to its prior opulence, with its architecthure style in Art Nouveau. If you are not familiar with Art Nouveau, it is worth looking into. It is from the early 20th century, romantic and elegant, stained glass, sumptious in style with glimmering golds. To gaze at this fine ornamentations transcends one back into the turn of the 20th century , the high class luxury and allure of a time when woman dressed in their finest gowns, men wore tuxedos, and life was a fantasy.
We were greeted by a friendly staff and made our way to the wrought iron bird cage elevator. Our room is warm and comfortable with all the comforts of home (minus the barking schnauzer). After a much needed hot shower, we took a 3 hr nap, sleeping away the weary exhaustion from travel. Awaking with energy and our usual exploration curiosity, we ventured out into the thriving city streets.
Sadly, our camera decided to die the day we arrived, so we made a much needed stop at a local, possibly overpriced, electronics store and made our first Czech Republic purchase. After purchasing our camera, we explored the city. Here's the scene: Cobblestone streets, patches of slick ice, church bells chiming, colorful stores with playful marionettes displayed in windows, and all of Czech's finest goods, tempting tourists eager to drain their wallets, large groups of loud, teenagers, chanting soccer songs and roughhousing.
We decided on a local restaurant called Svejk http://www.svejk-restaurant.cz/en/. It specialized in Czech local cuisine. The establishment is from 1896, a cavelike atmosphere, with tasty tempting pretzels as centerpieces. Frank treated himself to the beverage of Prague, a big ole' glass mug of Pilsner. We dined on hearty dumplings, and Frank enjoyed a rather small piece of roast beef, swimming in a thick gravy. We finished the meal with a cinnamon laden, multi layered apple streudel. It made its cousin, the apple pie, look pretty pathetic. A carb heavy meal, although authentic and true to its descriptions in the menu. The service was good, and the price very reasonable.
After our meal, we decided to get "lost" in the streets of Prague. We window shopped, and made a much needed purchase of furry, red ear muffs. We gazed at the churches, and interesting architechure. The buildings are adorned with sculptures, full bodies of floating ladies, straddling city buildings. We made our way to the Charles Bridge http://www.myczechrepublic.com/pragu...es_bridge.html. This bridge was built in the late 1300's. It is a Gothic style bridge, with Baroque statues along both sides of the bridge. The shadows in the darkness on the bridge, create an errie stillness, with the castle off in the distance and the energetic Vltava river below.
We stopped at Starbucks, sat in some comfy chairs, with my hot caramel chocolate, by the chill of the window, and took in the scene. With fixed attention, we took in the overshadowing cathedral, resting our weary feet, from the challenging cobblestone terrain.
We made our way leisurely back to the hotel, planning tomorrows events.
Tune in tomorrow for more blogging adventures
`B and F~
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Old Mar 13th, 2013, 06:50 PM
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Okay I am waiting

Is it that cold in Prague that you needed ear muffs !!??
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Old Mar 13th, 2013, 10:39 PM
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Percy, yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!on earmuffs. This old gal from Florida. Left there it was 80 degrees. Glad you are tuned in.
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 04:28 AM
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I am tuned in too and enjoying very much!
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 09:30 AM
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looking foarward to the next installment
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 11:48 AM
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I'll be there in a few weeks -- hope I don't need earmuffs.
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 03:05 PM
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Prague
March 14, 2013
Day 2
18,562 steps
Trip Report
“There will be plenty of time to sleep once you are dead”
― Benjamin Franklin
Aching feet, throbbing back, sheer exhaustion, brain drain- I am experiencing all the above. This is a good thing, as I am trying to absorb Prague and all its gifts it has to offer (which are plentiful). I awoke this morning, well rested, sun streaming through the window, masking the bitter cold air that would welcome me later. We made our way to the grandeur of the dining room. Breakfast is served in a magnificant room that used to be a movie theatre. An open space of light, suspended on a level of glass. Decorative details adorn the room, with a buffet of fresh breads, tasty eggs, colorful fruits, and all sorts of not your every day delacies. The food was substantial, hot and pleasing. We coasted on that caloric wave for a full 8 hrs.
After breakfast, we made our way to the tram. One of the many ways to navigate this uncomplicated city. It runs on an electrified rail, and the cost of the ticket was the equivelent of $1.60 each. Not bad for a heated, comfortable scenic route up the hill, to many of the cultural sights in Prague. Once, up there the views are breathtaking and bountiful from all angles
We made our way to the Sternberg Palace http://www.ngprague.cz/en/2/sekce/sternberg-palace/ . It was confusing and maze-like trying to find this establishment, but with much perserverence, we eventually found our way. The building itself is an ornate building from the late 1600s, housing major Masters, with minor works. There are two levels, including Italian and Renaissance and a large German noteworthy collection. We spent a good two hrs there, satisfied with the experience.
We walked around the grounds of the Castle http://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle/...e-castle.shtml, weaving in and out of swarms of tour groups, picture taking tourists, and masses of students. The guards looked on with a suspicious eye, as disrespectful hooligans took goofy pictures, adjacent to them.
We did some minor travel worship in the imposing Prague Cathedral http://www.prague.net/st-vitus-cathedral. A 600 year old church that is the biggest and most important church in Prague. The stained glass windows are vibrant and illuminating in the dark church. Commercialism has certainly engulfed Prague as there was an admission fee for the cathedral. Since when did you have to pay to pray? Oh well........... After our church experience, we stopped at a little stand and had some overpriced grog (grog: hot water, lemon, sugar and ummmmmmmmmm RUM) Yeah, that will warm you up real good. We rested our feet for a couple minutes and let the rum heat us up.
Next we went Lobkowicz Palace http://www.lobkowicz.cz/en/Lobkowicz-Palace-9.htm . A palace from the late 16th century housing spectacular art, relics, and original musical compositions from Mozart and Beethoven. In addition to the art, there is an interesting story behind the aquisitions. They belong to the Lobkowics family, who lost them to the Nazis, then lost them again to the Russians. In 1989, they were able to get all their items back. We used audio tour guides that were easy to listen to, and I thoroughly enjoyed the tour.
We slowly made our way down the hill, as the sun continued to warm us. We made our way back into the main hub, and dined at Pasta Fresca http://pastafresca.ambi.cz/en/#index , suggested by the kind receptionist at our hotel. We ate down in the cozy cellar, a yummy, Italian meal. I had an interesting stuffed mushroom with spinach and Frank had a minestrone soup, followed by homemade taglitalle pasta and mushrooms for me, and a hearty lasagna for Frank. We were tired and hungry and the meal fueled us for our upcoming evening's events. We finished the meal off with a creamy panne cotte and dark chocolate, and a ginger tea that made my eyes tear, my lungs open, and my innards stand up to attention. STRONG STUFF.
We staggered back to our hotel, hoping to rest our weary bodies, if not just for a moment, as we had a ballet to go to next. By the time we got to our room, Frank said "we have 5 minutes to get ready!" I quickly changed in my finest evening wear, brushed the teeth, and out back on the cobblestone streets we went. A brisk half hour walk, commented by yours truly bitchin' and moaning on this invention called a CAR! But, the hubby took it in stride as we knew we had to account for that panne cotte somehow.
We arrived at the National Theatre http://www.nationaltheatre.cz/ , where we had tickets to The Sleeping Beauty Ballet. The theatre is grand and impressive, yet surprisingly intimate. We were escorted to our front row orchestra seats, right as the lights went down. Little girls in fancy dresses, gazed in wonder as the magic of the ballet took over the stage.
The dark ,warm theatre became the perfect recipe for a soothing nap, as the orchestra became a hypnotic lullaby, and the dancers became leaping sheep. Our eyes glazed, heart slowed, as we kept catching each other mid snore, partial head bob, full blown drool. We pinched each other, silently giggling like school age children in detention. By far, these were the best seats we ever had, and, the most vivid dreams I have ever experienced.
All that said, it was a beautiful production, flawless and captivating. After the ballet, we trudged on back to the hotel, as my big monkey snores the exhaustion of the day away.
Tune in tomorrow for yet more exciting Bohemian Adventures---
Love and big swollen toe blisters,
`B and F~
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 04:16 PM
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Loving every word! You do have a gift for descriptive prose.
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 05:17 PM
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I'm along for the journey!
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 07:18 PM
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Okay your from Florida ,so I can see why the ear muffs !!!

Glad you made it to the Sternberg Place, most people when at the Castle Square, head staight into the Castle area and St. Vitus Cathedral.

Sternberg is kind of "tucked away" back of the Bishop's Palace.

Did you walk along the Golden Lane inside the Castle area. ?

When I was there (June)the weather was 82- 88 F everyday so it was Florida weather .

I can see from your K-K Hotel you had a half hour walk to the National Theatre.
Hope you were not clicking away in high heels on the cobblestones !!!
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 07:26 PM
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<<Since when did you have to pay to pray?>>

Quite common these days, it seems.

Last fall, the only places that I received the incorrect amount of change for my entrance fee was at two churches! I expected to be taken advantage of somewhere but wasn't expecting it to be at a church!

First time, I didn't catch it until it was too late. Second time, I noticed right away and said to the clerk, "I thought the fee was $x"' she replied something like "oh" and gave me the correct change. Accidents or outright theft?
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 07:28 PM
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BtTW, enjoying your report! More, please.
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 08:57 PM
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Thanks everybody! Glad you are following. More to come later. Percey--- "Did you walk along the Golden Lane inside the Castle area. ?" Are you speaking of Kofka's lane?That is now pay too! we were here 10 yrs ago, and it was so uncommercialized! I still love this idealic place, but pay for Kofka's street???? He would be cracking up if he were alive!
Thanks again everybody!
`B`
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 09:46 PM
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I am enjoying your trip report. We were in Prague a couple years ago and loved it. Will keep watching for your reports. Have fun.
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 11:46 PM
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Nice report I am enjoying it very much.
St Vitus does allow people into the front area for free but as the box office for the whole castle Tour is there many folk just don't realise there are parts you can see for free.
Brookums,it's Franz Kafka you are thinking about,Golden lane is the street where his sister lived but where he did much of his writing,it was extensively refurbished a few year ago after a great deal of archeological work,a lovely place. There is a great Kafka museum near Charles Bridge,Kafka's grave can be visited in the new Jewish cemetary beside Zelivskeho Metro station.In Golden Lane there is an armoury museum that many folk miss and at the far end of the battlemnet area where the museum is you can actually try out an old fashioned crossbow,its great fun.
I enjoyed the description of the ballet, Prague was the first Place I ever went to the opera (been to ballet before) and the exeprience was wonderful plus its a fraction of the price you would pay anywhere else.
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Old Mar 15th, 2013, 08:24 AM
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Brookum71

Yes I am thinking of Kofka's Lane.... hmm they charge now, very interesting.

Let us know more about the trip, it is nice that you help us remember.
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Old Mar 15th, 2013, 09:27 AM
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Thanks for a very informative report. We will be in Prague April and will go to the places you recommend. Thank you.
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Old Mar 15th, 2013, 10:15 AM
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You mention "Pilsner" when I was last in Prague the staff used to say how sorry they were they only had Pilsner, I hope you got some of the better local beers.
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Old Mar 15th, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Uncle Gus-"St Vitus does allow people into the front area for free but as the box", we did hang out in the front and admired the Mucha stained glass. Thanks for your commentary.


Biloberger- "You mention "Pilsner" when I was last in Prague the staff used to say how sorry they were they only had Pilsner," my husband rather enjoyed it. I am certain they have more than that now.

Thanks everybody for your comments. New blog under way.
`B`
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Old Mar 15th, 2013, 03:41 PM
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Prague Trip Report
March 15, 2013
Day 3
Daytrip to Dresden
14,435 steps
No road is long with good company
- Turkish Proverb

Three and a half glorious hours of sleep, that's what this chickadee was running off of this morning. Awoken at 5:45 am for our day trip to Dresden, Germany http://www.dresden.de/index_en.php. A quick, satifying breakfast and then we made our way to the Prague train station. The train was very comfortable and clean and we had our own private car which we shared with a friendly couple. At one point, the gentleman pulled out a knife, Frank grew fearful, ready to save his woman (who was snoring against the window, and oblivious), when out came a ham. Crisis averted. I slept like a baby in the womb the entire ride, rocking with the rhythm of the train. We passed beautiful scenery along the way(as I was later told by the Hubs), as the train followed along the River. The train ride,(and lovely nap) lasted 2 hrs.

Dresden is a modern city, that was completly demolished before the end of World War II. Between Feb 13 and 15, 1945- 5 air raids destroyed the city, in addition 25,000 people lost their lives. The air was quite cold, and snow was falling. We made our way to Starbucks, to get aquainted with the city, warm up and map out a plan. We sat by the window and watched the city come to life as it was still early.

After our brief stop, we made our way to Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister http://www.skd.museum/en/museums-ins...ter/index.html . Even after much research and planning, we soon found out that it is closed for construction and renovations. We were quite disappointed, but quickly averted to Plan B.
Zwinger Palace http://www.dresden.de/index_en.php, http://www.skd.museum/en/museums-ins...ung/index.html, which was part of the Gallery that remained opened and housed porcelin from all around the world from the 17th and 18th century. We scooted through their, frankly with low expectations and was pleasently surprised. The porcelin was delicate and detailed, and we enjoyed the afternoon as the snow fell outside.

We broke for lunch, a quick sandwich we packed. We sat outside, as the snow fell, in the quiet stillness of the afternoon. After a relaxing light lunch, we went to Neues Grunes Gewoibe http://www.skd.museum/en/museums-ins...lbe/index.html. (The Green Room). It consists of 9 rooms of antiquities, such as goblets and "trinkets" a "Hoarders" of sorts of the most priceless items. It came with an extremely detailed audio guide, and was interesting, but a little bit of "brain drain" as I call it began, and I had to selectively chose what I wanted to see and hear about. Enjoyable, kind of like champagne- indulgent, but in small, steady doses.

From there, we popped in the Dresden Cathedral http://www.dresden.de/dtg/en/sightse...kathedrale.php. Pretty on the outside, but very simple on the inside. We sat and had our quiet moment, me trying to gather physical strength from a fairly exhausting day, and then moved on.

Our last stop before heading to the train for home was dinner. The snow was coming down fairly hard at this point, and all we wanted was hot and fulling. We went to a delicious Thai restaurant http://www.thai-essen.de/ . We both had hot coconut lemongrass soup, and fresh noodle dishes. The service was great, and I had a yummy litchi fruit drink.

We made it to the train, sat by ourselves sharing stories and quickly fell asleep. We slept in the dark cabin as we passed lit up villages and cities, along day, a different country, and many new experiences shared.

love and salty yummy German pretzels (my cryponite)
~B~
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