PattyB

I'm writing this report to thank fodorites for their help and as a means to selfishly hang on to the magic of Italy. Our trip was to celebrate 25 great yrs of marriage--& what better way to do so? We flew British Air from OKC to Dallas to London then Naples. They let us upgrade the Dallas/London leg ($150 each) & it was worth every penny. We arrived in Naples and a driver (he looked like Antonio Banderas) took us to Positano. We were hoping he wouldn't arrive in a smart car (even though my husband loves them) because our luggage would never fit. Thankfully, he picked us up in a mercedes (not too shabby)! We were pretty jetlagged but still were amazed by the scenery during the drive. We checked in to the Hotel Poseidon. We had booked a suite and were taken to our room. Initially, I was a little disappointed in the room. It looked a little tired, maybe a little worn. But I think we were the ones worn & tired as a direct result of the flight because we came to love that room. After we started acclimating, we realized the architectural elements of the room--curved doorways, beautiful curved wooden windows with shutters. It was very quaint & charming. We had a living room, bedroom, huge bathroom with a big tub & separate shower & really large vanity. We had a great terrace with a loveseat, table & 2 chairs. The room is the suite pictured on their website. The bedroom has 1 wall of windows. The first night, we awoke from our jetlagged slumber and just couldn't believe the view of the town & all the lights. It was beautiful. In the morning, we'd open our door to the terrace and there would be the sea. It was lovely. The staff of the hotel couldn't have been more helpful. Breakfast was included and it was wonderful. I had looked into staying at La Sirenuse but it was 3 times the price & I know their service couldn't be any better than Poseidon's. I know this is going to sound crazy, since this was an anniversary trip, but one of my biggest impressions of Italy is how handsome the men are. I'm not kidding. I even finally asked my husband if he noticed. I thought the men were much more beautiful than the women (sorry ladies). One afternoon we went to lay by the pool & the pool boy wouldn't let us touch any chaises to move them to face the sun--he did it for us. Then he put towels on the chairs and made sure we had everything we needed. He looked like a movie star! After a bit, my husband asked for some water and a waiter brought him a bottle of water in an ice bucket, 2 glasses and snacks! He looked like a model! It just seemed like everywhere we went, the men were beautiful! It just surprised me. But rest assured, my hubby beats them all. Back to the report--one day we walked up (I don't think there is a 'down' in Positano, everything seemed to be uphill!) and ate at Grotto Azzura. It's a little cafe that is pretty high. We had a delicious meal there. But the waiter was really grumpy. It was really kind of funny. Maybe he was tired or was having a bad day, but he didn't act like he wanted our money. We had the house wine & it was good. We also ate at De Vincenzo. It was excellent and the waiters (all goodlooking!) were really friendly & helpful. For our anniversary night, we ate at La Sponda in Le Sirenuse. This is a beautiful hotel. The restaurant was probably the prettiest restaurant I've ever been in. It was almost totally lit by candlelight. There were strolling musicians and the atmosphere was wonderful. The food was just so-so but they brought us several desserts to try (we hadn't asked for them) & that was pretty sweet! But it is beautiful. The night before we left, we ate at the Poseidon's restaurant. The food was great, the atmosphere was wonderful. We ate on the terrace & I was concerned because it was pretty cool temp-wise. Well, they bring you a blanket to put around your shoulders! It was wonderful. Everyone was sitting with a blanket around them. There was one obnoxious person sitting behind us who was one of those know-it-alls. He was a music producer (I hope he's reading this) & went on & on about this and that. Well, Mr. Uppity gets his food & I couldn't believe what I was hearing...the man ate like a pig! He was sitting behind me, so I couldn't see him thank god, but I could hear him. It was gross but then we started laughing. Its the little things that make a trip memorable. We took the bus to Amalfi (too croweded)during our stay & boated over to Capri. We went to the Blue Grotto & I know some posters think it's corny, but I thought is was beautiful. Then we took the chair lift up Anacapri. The scenery is stunning. It left me breathless. The town of Capri was really crowded. But there was a gelato shop that made their own cones. It was delicious. As crowded as Capri was, I think I'd like to stay overnight in Anacapri sometime. It was beautiful. I'd like to see it when the daytrippers leave. As I'm rereading this post, I realize it is a little disjointed. Sorry about that. My next report on Rome will be more coherent.

Betsy

Loved the report, Patty. For your next segment, could you please break it into paragraphs. It'll be SO much easier to read.

Weadles

PattyB,

Glad you had such a good time at the Poseidon. You're really making me want to go back-- for the third time!

Thanks!

PattyB

Sorry Betsy--will use paragraphs for the next segment. Thanks for the tip.

PattyB

SEGMENT 2--ROME:

After 4 days in Positano,we had a driver take us to the Naples train station. We had 1st-class reservations on the Eurostar to Rome.

The driver was nice enough to take us into the station & take us to the lounge area to wait. We had to show our tickets to a man who was an overseer of the lounge & really took his job seriously.

After a while, my husband started visiting with him and asked him when we should board the train. He told my husband "Oh not more than 5 min before the train leaves". Well, I'm a type-A kind of person and thought we should walk over earlier. It was 9:15 & our train left at 9:30.

So we started over to the train. A little old man who looked about 80 stopped us. He was darling & reminded me of my great-grandpa. He motioned that we needed to stamp our tickets. I wasn't sure if we needed to or not, but he led us over to the yellow ticket machine and stamped our tickets for us. He looked at our tickets and pointed to Car 3 on the ticket and said "Oh--long way, long way, long way--son-of-a bitch"!! It cracked us up but then we realized we had to go to the last car of the train! My husband tipped the little guy & off we ran.

We started hightailing it down the platform. A porter grabbed my bag & started running, motioning for me to hurry. We made it just in time but couldn't stop laughing about the little old man & his command of the english language!

We arrived in Rome & a driver met us at the train station. He transported us to the Hotel Dei Borgognoni on Via Bufalo, just off of Via Del Corso.

This hotel is in a great location. It has all the amenities, but my gosh the room was small. Compared to the Poseidon, it looked like a closet. But it did have a nice closet, big with huge mirrored doors.

The bathroom shower was really little. I'm 5'3 & about 100 lbs & I barely fit in it. I told my husband--you're doomed, you'll never fit. After showering, my husband said they ought to just have the floor be a lazy susan and let you just spin so you wouldn't have to try to turn around in it.

I guess it didn't matter about the room because we weren't in it much.

I loved Rome! I didn't expect to because some of the posters on this board didn't have great things to say about it and it seems like the negative things you read stick with you.

I thought it was beautiful. Around every corner was a surprise. The streets were so quaint. We walked & walked & walked--mainly because we were constantly getting lost! But I didn't mind. We even had a map & a compass & we still got lost!

We had scheduled a Scala Real night walking tour for the first night. We loved it. "Jenny" was our guide and she was great. There was only 1 other couple so it was very personal. Very nice--would do it again in a heartbeat.

The next day, we had a tour scheduled at the vatican with Vatican Tours & Beyond and the Scavi tour. Vatican tours picked us up at the hotel & took us to the vatican. They showed us where to go for the scavi tour & made arrangements to meet us at the second fountain after the scavi tour. The scavi tour was fantastic. Our guide said there are 50,000 people who visit the vatican every day & only 120 get to tour underground. We were very lucky.

After the tour, we met our guide at the fountain. She took us to a person who was 'line-sitting' for us. Marta had been keeping a place in line for us and we joined her and had hardly a wait. Pretty nice. She took us thru the museums, the sistine chapel & St. Peter's basilica. It was just fascinating.

By the end of the day, we were experiencing 'senses overload'. It was so much to take in. We needed a break. I was starving and wanted to go to Mario's to eat. Thank you posters. We walked from the vatican and finally found Mario's. It was delicious. The caprese salad was just like my mother's. It was worth the walk. We just had house wine & it, too, was good.

We walked back to the hotel, getting lost several times along the way. On the map, everything would look fairly far but when you start walking it, it's only a matter of a few blocks. We over-shot everything--by a lot!

We saw as much as we could in 3 days. We thought we had walked a lot in Positano, but that was nothing compared to Rome. I just loved Rome.

My overall impression of Rome, though, is that is seems more formal. Everywhere we went, the waiters were in tuxes. That must be so hot! So many men had on suits and everyone seemed to be dressed up. It was just a little more formal but very appealing. Everyone took their jobs very seriously and consequently, everyone we encountered was very helpful.

I know there's been many topics about how to dress in Italy & how not to look like a tourist. Well let me tell you--you WILL look like a tourist. There's no way around it. I'm Italian and I looked like a tourist. Walking around with my mouth hanging open because of the beauty of Rome didn't help--neither did the map, nor the comfy shoes (even though they are cute shoes, they are not heels). They just looked so put together. I was very impressed.

Oops, I'm sorry this is so long, if anybody is even still reading. More later.

LindyE

Patty -
Thanks for sharing your report! The section on Rome takes me back to our trip last summer .... what a wonderful city!
We havent been to Positano yet - I'm thinking it will be our destination in 2005. Thanks for the tips on the hotel!
Glad you enjoyed your trip to Italy!
Ciao!

yipper

Great report. Keep it coming.
Thanks

Carmen

What did you see on the Scala Real night tour? Great report!

PattyB

Sorry about the break in the report -- life has begun again--work beckoned & a bathroom leak signaled the need for a new shower pan--anybody out there do tile work!?

Carmen: The Scala Reale tour was based around Piazza Navona. Jenny, the tour guide walked us all around the area giving us the history of different buildings and fountains. It took in the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and basically the whole area. It gave us a lot of insight into how things came to be.

Jenny also took us to a little gelato shop just down a street from the Trevi Fountain. I can't remember the name of the street, but she said just remember you go straight down from the huge Nike sign. It shop was called San Crispin or something like that. Really great gelato--probably the best we had on the trip & believe me, we tried a lot. They had different flavors like pear & grapefruit and use no artificial preservatives.

We took the Eurostar from Rome up to Florence. Sat across from a british couple on their 25th anniversary trip. Very pleasant ride. He couldn't believe we planned on renting a car in Florence and touring tuscany! He said he wouldn't even consider it!

TUSCANY: We arrived in Florence and didn't realize you have to walk a couple blocks to the Hertz rental agency. I, for some reason, thought it would be at the train station. Anyway, we find Hertz & got there just in time. A huge line of people waited after us. You walk about 2 blocks, then, to get the car. Hertz gives you a map and trace for you the route you need to take to get out of Florence. The next 30 min tense -- traffic in Florence is pretty heavy. We weren't used to no traffic lanes, or rules, or lack of signs. Surprisingly, we got out of town pretty easily.

The drive to Sinalunga was beautiful. After a bit, my husband got into the driving--he likes to drive fast so I guess we came to the right country!

We had reservations at Locanda Del Amarosa and had no trouble finding it. I was a little worried because I had left the exact directions at home, but they have signs along the way to lead you.

The area of Sinalunga that you drive through is not huge and not particularly pretty. My husband asked me if this was going to be a 1-star hotel? I didn't answer because I knew we were in for a treat.

The minute we drove up the cypress-lined entrance, we both started to smile. I thought--I could live here! The Amarosa is beautiful. We had suite #45--it's pictured on their website in the photo gallery--the 2nd picture, with the arch.

The room has a large bedroom and then you step down into a living room with a fireplace. The bathroom is huge with a separate shower & tub. You have a great view from every window. It was the perfect place to unwind from Rome. The service at the Amarosa is fantastic. They anticipate your every need. They even had wood in the fireplace, ready for you and we did use it one rainy night after ordering up a bottle of wine. This place is just lovely--my favorite hotel of the vacation.

During the stay, we visited Montepulciano, Pienza, Montalcino, Montefollinico, Quirco D Ortia (sp). I think I liked Pienza the best. It was just so pretty. My husband liked Montepulciano the best. We had the best lunch in Montefollinico. The restaurant was called Il Botteghino. It's on the main road at the intersection north of town. It was full of locals and the food was really delicious.

We wanted to eat at La Chiusa but really didn't want to drive at night after drinking wine. In fact, how do you do it? Those roads are so winding. We ate at Amarosa one night, which was really good. One day we got goat cheese, sausauge, olives, crackers & wine etc and just ate in the room. I loved it.

The last day we were there, we were going to go to the store to get groceries for dinner but it was Republic Day (or something like that) and everything was closed. We drove high up into Sinalunga, into the village. They were having a huge festival.It was pretty cool and the village is much prettier than the road thru lower Sinalunga.

We had a horrible time finding a parking place, I think the entire town was in attendance. Sinalunga is not touristy like Montepulciano because there's not nearly as much there. But I liked being among the townfolk and seeing how they really live. I think we were the only Americans at the festival which was a nice change.

We reluctantly left the Amarosa & headed out to Florence to drop off the rent car. We left at 9:15 and had to have the car back by noon. We figured we'd be there in an hour and have plenty of time in Florence. Well--we hit a traffic jam on the A1 that seemed to last forever. Then, when we finally arrived in Florence we got horribly lost (I think that was the theme of our trip!). We drove up to the drop-off place at 11:55!

We took a cab to our hotel--Hotel Palazzo Strozzi. This hotel is in a perfect location--close to everything. Our room was huge & it had great amenities. The only complaint I have about this hotel is the carpeting in the room--it was terribly stained. Thank goodness I had slippers because I wouldn't walk on it barefooted! Oh--and our room was on the street side and very noisy. I think the noise stopped around 3 am & we had to be up at 5 am to catch a flight.

We walked all around Florence & finally found Vivoli--the famous gelato shop. It was crowded but delicious. I think my husband had gelato 4 times on this last day in Italy!

The hotel staff sent us to Bibo's that night for dinner. This was the best meal we had the entire trip. It's across the river at Ponte Vecchio and go straight to Piazza San Felicita. It was absolutely delicious. Our pasta was perfect & my husband had a steak that was tender enough to cut with a fork.

The next morning we were off to the airport. We flew Meridiana to London then British Air home. The London to Dallas leg was a nightmare but the Florence to London leg was great. We were on one of Meridiana's new planes and it was very comfortable.

Thats it--I know this report was long but believe me, I left a lot out. Thanks for everyone's help. Now I'll just relive the trip thru our credit card bills and get back to the real world!

ira

Hi Patty,

Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Thanks for sharing.

Treesa

Patty, I so enjoyed your report. Happy Anniversary!

ccthomp

Patty,
I really enjoyed your trip report. We just returned from Rome and a Mediterranen cruise and are already planning for Tuscany next year so I appreciate all your information.
Sounds like it was a great anniversary celebration. Thanks for sharing. This message board has been enormously helpful!
Carol

Carmen

Thanks for the info about the night tour!