Trip Report Part 2, Verona, Vicenza and Padova - more art & architecture
 

Trip Report Part 2

Hi everyone, Trophywife007, I agree. The Duetorri is fabulous. I have traveled to many small towns in Italy, but there is really something special about Verona.

The first evening of the actual tour, we had a reception on the rooftop terrace and then headed to the Basilica of San Zeno. This is really a spectacular church and if you like visiting churches and are interested in history, definitely go visit. https://www.chieseverona.it/en/our-c...ca-of-san-zeno It dates back to the 12th century, and one of the enjoyable aspects is the “welcoming feel” of the church, which I felt is due to the architecture and the color of the mixed tufa blocks and bricks. Everyone kept talking about Verona marble as well, really pretty. There is a marvelous altarpiece by Andrea Mantegna, and some very cool old bronze doors, which are well worth looking at. We were there for 2 hours, and I could have easily spent another 2. Lots to see. Amazing frescos, etc.

Following that we traveled to a beautiful villa, the Villa Mosconi Bertani,owned by 2 brothers -- Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani. It is an 18th-century residence in the heart of the Valpolicella Classica region, and this is where Amarone wine was born. While there, we had a drinks reception and a tour, then a lovely dinner in the Chamber of the Muses. Prior to the dinner and during it, we were serenaded by the Mandolin Venice Ensemble. Now that was really lovely. Quite an evening!

The next morning after we were all organized, we (as a group) went back to Sant’Anastasia and explored Verona a bit. We had lunch at the Caffè Liston 12 in the Piazza Bra, which was not great, (although the melon was fabulous). I’d give it a 5 out of 10. Then we visited the Verona Cathedral, which was another gorgeous complex. This is in fact, where Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin is. https://www.chieseverona.it/en/our-c...hedral-complex. We had dinner at Cenacolo, and it was absolutely delicious. https://www.ristoranteilcenacolo.it/?lang=en. Highly recommend.

The next morning, we were off to Vicenza, which is associated with the architect Andra Palladio. Since a significant portion of this tour focused on architecture, we spent several hours walking the streets. The main streets were magnificent, such as the Corso Andrea Palladio. We made a rushed coffee stop in the Piazza dei Signori, surrounded by beautiful buildings. One thing I enjoyed were the trees. I bet that sounds odd, but I live a block outside DC, and I don’t really get to see a lot of old, huge trees. The coffee break was very nice, and the Piazza was lovely and quiet. Very relaxing. Also, you get to see these buildings that are breathtaking, such as Palladio’s Loggia del Capitanio and Basilica. This was a place I could have very happily have spent 2 days in, so if you do plan to visit Vicenza, I suggest that. You can see the “pre-Alps!”

One of two highlights was Palladio’s Teatro Olimpico, which blew me away. Here’s the link https://www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it/en/. Be sure to watch the video. The interior of the Teatro Olimpico is made of stucco/plaster and wood. It is amazing. It was built by Palladio between 1580 and 1585. There is a painted blue sky with clouds, and one of the best parts is that the back of the theatre has arches that contain trompe-l’oeil scenery… which was designed by his colleague (or pupil?) Vincenzo Scamozzi. If you are there in the summer, they still hold theatre and musical events there. I can’t even imagine how great that would be. I mean, to hear a concert sitting in a theatre that is over 400 years old? Wow.

We then traveled to the church, Santa Corona. We had a second tour leader (so they could split up the groups), named Antonio Mazzotta, who is a leading authority on the Bellini family (from Venice), and we got to sit and get a lecture on this magnificent altarpiece. The Bellini were one of two families in Venice that essentially began Renaissance painting in the city. The other family was the Vivarini. They say that the drink (Bellini) was named by the guy who created it in Venice after one of the Bellini, because he was “inspired” by the pink hues in Bellini’s paintings – the colors in the drink he created reminded him of Bellini’s work.

Later in the day we drove to Asolo, Italy. We had lunch at the Villa Cipriani, https://www.villacipriani.it/en/. This was a glorious villa with beautiful views and lunch was excellent. I also went inside the villa to look around on the first floor, and it was truly beautiful. I can’t even imagine how much a stay here would be. This villa was owned by Robert Browning and later by Giuseppe Cipriani of Harry’s Bar in Venice. On our way back to Verona, we visited the Villa di Maser https://www.villadimaser.it/en-GB. The Villa was designed and built by Andrea Palladio around 1550; it was a private residence for the Barbaro brothers. The best part for me is that there are 6 rooms that are completely frescoed by Paolo Veronese who I love. The do make you wear these huge and ungainly slippers that you slip on over your shoes. So, you have to sort of “ski” from room to room. It’s fantastic! I find myself wondering every time I go to one of these places….how on earth did they afford the upkeep on them?

I have to say this was definitely one of my favorite days – I loved Vicenza and, as mentioned, could have happily spent two full days there exploring. I loved having a chance to travel to these other locations as well, to get a sense of where I might want to return to.

We headed back to Verona – had Aperol Spritzes and snacks in the lobby and I hit the sack. As soon as possible I’ll write up my last 3 days – which include Padua and the Scrovegni Chapel. 😊