Trip Report-Paris: Turned on By The City of Light
Aug 22nd, 2008, 07:30 AM
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Trip Report-Paris: Turned on By The City of Light
The complete journal for our 19 day trip to Italy and France is at www.explorerbear.blogspot.com
August 17: A Day for Museums in Paris
Rue Cler was buzzing with people this morning sitting outside at local cafes enjoying their morning coffee and fresh baked croissant. Local shops were setting up their wares in outside stalls and the outdoor market was doing brisk business selling fresh fruits and vegetables. Tourists with their guidebooks in hand were heading off for a day of sightseeing. Paris is really a vibrant place to be.
Paris is so full of museums that is made sense for us to buy a two day museum pass that could be used at most of the major museums. Our first museum was the Rodin Museum. Housed in the former residence where Rodin once lived, you can see the evolution of his work. Many of the works there displayed the original plaster models near the statues. I was surprised to learn that when some of his bronze statues were unveiled, people actually booed them because they thought they were ugly.
Surrounding the museum are beautiful rose gardens. Rodin's bronze statue, The Thinker, was mounted carefully on a pedestal in the center of the garden. People stopped at its base to strike the same pose. On the other side of the garden was a set of five bronze statues called The Burghers of Calais. This artwork depicts the tragic fate of five French leaders who decided to sacrfice their lives in order to save their town. Each of the people featured had a different downcast expression.
Next we visited Napolean's tomb. He is buried in an enormous marble tomb that sits on a pedestal below an elaborately painted dome. Napolean died in 1821 and his body was moved to the current location in 1840. His hat and grey frock and coat are proudly displayed in a gleaming glass case. Downstairs surrounding the tomb are carved marble statues and reliefs telling of some of his accomplishments. Based on the number of statues and the magnitude of the tomb, it almost seems as if he was a pharaoh.
Before visiting the Musee d' Orsay, we toured the military museum to see the World War II exhibits. The museum is in chronological order and had an amazing collection of memorabilia from news articles, to crisp elegant uniforms adorned with medals. Propaganda posters and war related posters were displayed. As you walked from room to room, relevant black and white newsreels played.
The Musee d' Orsay is housed in a former grand railroad station right on the River Seine. Two enormous clocks surrounded by glass and marble are reminders of the old train station and are still in working condition. The museum is very nicely arranged with separate galleries for many of the artists. The number of famous paintings we saw was staggering. We saw paintings by Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, and Cezanne. In one of the rooms was Whistler's Mother. I have to admit that it looked rather uninspiring to me amid all the colorful paintings by Monet and Van Gogh.
While we were wandering through the galleries admiring all of the paintings, people stuck their cameras right on front of the paintings to snap a photo. I found this rather annoying. It was quite a contrast from the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, for example, where art enthusiasts would step back to admire and discuss each painting rather than blocking everyone's view with a camera. But if you can block out this distraction, which we did, you are able to see some of the most incredible masterpieces in the western world.
Dinner tonight was right across the street from our hotel on Rue Cler, Ulysee en Gaule. The owners serve delicious Greek food which you can eat either take away, or enjoy at one of their sidewalk tables. We've noticed people stopping there at all hours for a crepe which is made right there on the sidewalk. Our crepe was heaped full of fresh mushrooms, peppers, onions, and garden ripe tomatoes. Humus was served with thin slices of French bread.
As a special treat, we took an evening sightseeing cruise with Bateaux-Mouches down the River Seine. The boat had lights on the side which illuminated the banks of river. Narration was given in many languages. Paris looked stunningly beautiful at night. Every building looked elegant.
The Eiffel Tower was lit by blue searchlights with huge stars between the second and third level forming the EU flag. At 10:00, the light show started, but even when it was over, the Eiffel Tower stood like a jewel over Paris and with a full moon behind it, will be a scene we will never forget.
August 19: The Magic of Paris
Breakfast at our hotel can be quite expensive so we decided to follow the advice in our Rick Steves' guide and eat just down the street on Rue Cler at PTT Brasserie. It has an Old-World style and serves two breakfasts for 12 Euro which includes a fried egg, ham, crispy croissant, orange juice, and coffee.
As a child I visited Paris when I was 10. Clutching copies of photos from my trip taken on top of the second level of the Eiffel Tower, we got in what appeared to be the shortest line to recreate them. We thought we were pretty lucky to only wait 18 minutes for our elevator ticket until we discovered we were actually in the line for the stairs. Up the stairs we climbed to the first level. The views of the city from every landing made it very worthwhile.
At the first level you can buy elevator tickets to the second level. Once up there, the views are breathtaking. All of Paris lies elegantly before you. Children stepping off the elevator for the first time exclaimed in delight. Looking at my childhood photos, we noticed that the only significant change is the number of tall buildings on the skyline of the financial district. We also noticed that the safety fencing preventing potential bungee jumpers did not exist back then. Other than that, Paris looks as glorious in person as it does in pictures and film.
Walking back to our hotel, it was fun to see people posing for wedding photos in front of the tower. Dressed in white with a floral bouquet, one bride happily joined hands with the groom for a joyful leap into the air for a whimsical photo. Looking above the tower, several jets were streaking by high above. What an amazing view they must have.
In the late afternoon we took a bus to Avenue de Champ Elysees. I don't think any trip to Paris is complete without a brief stroll down the street just window shopping and enjoying the ambiance. Cafes with colorful awnings and crisp white tablecloths set with gleaming crystal wine glasses were in full swing. Passing by Louis Vuitton, I was amazed at the size of the store along with Cartier. Employees in crisply pressed suits and shined shoes stood proudly in the doorway, probably as a signal it's a prestigious store for serious buyers only.
Perhaps most amazing to me were several elegant car showrooms: Renault, Peugeot, and Toyota. To me it did not look like a place to actually buy a car, it was more a place to admire future models. Ranging from sleek hybrids to stylish futuristic sports cars, each car sat gleaming on a pedestal. Most astonishing to us was that people were warmly welcomed in to simply pose with the cars. Grown businessmen in suits giggled at photos of themselves in front of race cars and it seemed as if every nationality was represented. In addition to cars, each showroom had a stylish selection of gifts including miniature models of cars, key chains and wallets, and even sophisticated leather covered pepper grinders.
Standing proudly in the middle of a roundabout on the Champs Elysees is the Arc de Triomphe. To access it, thankfully there is an underground walkway. After passing the eternal flame honoring an unknown soldier under the arch, we looked above to see the flags of France and the EU proudly handing from the arch and dancing in the breeze. Climbing the approximately 280 steps to the top, we joined the other happy breathless tourists at a museum area inside the arch where interactive displays allow you to get a glimpse of the reliefs on the arch up close. Outside, the view from the top is spectacular and it's fun to see the Eiffel Tower from another view.
Strolling back to our hotel along the dimly lit tree lined gravel paths, we couldn't help but stop and take one more look at the Eiffel Tower. Lit by floodlights, it glows a royal blue. A searchlight shining as a beacon of light streaks across the sky. Right on cue, at 10:00, the tower lit up with thousands of twinkling lights. Seeing the look of pure joy on every one's face and the beautiful twinkling tower, I took a mental photograph of it in my mind to remember always until we return to Paris again.
August 17: A Day for Museums in Paris
Rue Cler was buzzing with people this morning sitting outside at local cafes enjoying their morning coffee and fresh baked croissant. Local shops were setting up their wares in outside stalls and the outdoor market was doing brisk business selling fresh fruits and vegetables. Tourists with their guidebooks in hand were heading off for a day of sightseeing. Paris is really a vibrant place to be.
Paris is so full of museums that is made sense for us to buy a two day museum pass that could be used at most of the major museums. Our first museum was the Rodin Museum. Housed in the former residence where Rodin once lived, you can see the evolution of his work. Many of the works there displayed the original plaster models near the statues. I was surprised to learn that when some of his bronze statues were unveiled, people actually booed them because they thought they were ugly.
Surrounding the museum are beautiful rose gardens. Rodin's bronze statue, The Thinker, was mounted carefully on a pedestal in the center of the garden. People stopped at its base to strike the same pose. On the other side of the garden was a set of five bronze statues called The Burghers of Calais. This artwork depicts the tragic fate of five French leaders who decided to sacrfice their lives in order to save their town. Each of the people featured had a different downcast expression.
Next we visited Napolean's tomb. He is buried in an enormous marble tomb that sits on a pedestal below an elaborately painted dome. Napolean died in 1821 and his body was moved to the current location in 1840. His hat and grey frock and coat are proudly displayed in a gleaming glass case. Downstairs surrounding the tomb are carved marble statues and reliefs telling of some of his accomplishments. Based on the number of statues and the magnitude of the tomb, it almost seems as if he was a pharaoh.
Before visiting the Musee d' Orsay, we toured the military museum to see the World War II exhibits. The museum is in chronological order and had an amazing collection of memorabilia from news articles, to crisp elegant uniforms adorned with medals. Propaganda posters and war related posters were displayed. As you walked from room to room, relevant black and white newsreels played.
The Musee d' Orsay is housed in a former grand railroad station right on the River Seine. Two enormous clocks surrounded by glass and marble are reminders of the old train station and are still in working condition. The museum is very nicely arranged with separate galleries for many of the artists. The number of famous paintings we saw was staggering. We saw paintings by Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, and Cezanne. In one of the rooms was Whistler's Mother. I have to admit that it looked rather uninspiring to me amid all the colorful paintings by Monet and Van Gogh.
While we were wandering through the galleries admiring all of the paintings, people stuck their cameras right on front of the paintings to snap a photo. I found this rather annoying. It was quite a contrast from the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, for example, where art enthusiasts would step back to admire and discuss each painting rather than blocking everyone's view with a camera. But if you can block out this distraction, which we did, you are able to see some of the most incredible masterpieces in the western world.
Dinner tonight was right across the street from our hotel on Rue Cler, Ulysee en Gaule. The owners serve delicious Greek food which you can eat either take away, or enjoy at one of their sidewalk tables. We've noticed people stopping there at all hours for a crepe which is made right there on the sidewalk. Our crepe was heaped full of fresh mushrooms, peppers, onions, and garden ripe tomatoes. Humus was served with thin slices of French bread.
As a special treat, we took an evening sightseeing cruise with Bateaux-Mouches down the River Seine. The boat had lights on the side which illuminated the banks of river. Narration was given in many languages. Paris looked stunningly beautiful at night. Every building looked elegant.
The Eiffel Tower was lit by blue searchlights with huge stars between the second and third level forming the EU flag. At 10:00, the light show started, but even when it was over, the Eiffel Tower stood like a jewel over Paris and with a full moon behind it, will be a scene we will never forget.
August 19: The Magic of Paris
Breakfast at our hotel can be quite expensive so we decided to follow the advice in our Rick Steves' guide and eat just down the street on Rue Cler at PTT Brasserie. It has an Old-World style and serves two breakfasts for 12 Euro which includes a fried egg, ham, crispy croissant, orange juice, and coffee.
As a child I visited Paris when I was 10. Clutching copies of photos from my trip taken on top of the second level of the Eiffel Tower, we got in what appeared to be the shortest line to recreate them. We thought we were pretty lucky to only wait 18 minutes for our elevator ticket until we discovered we were actually in the line for the stairs. Up the stairs we climbed to the first level. The views of the city from every landing made it very worthwhile.
At the first level you can buy elevator tickets to the second level. Once up there, the views are breathtaking. All of Paris lies elegantly before you. Children stepping off the elevator for the first time exclaimed in delight. Looking at my childhood photos, we noticed that the only significant change is the number of tall buildings on the skyline of the financial district. We also noticed that the safety fencing preventing potential bungee jumpers did not exist back then. Other than that, Paris looks as glorious in person as it does in pictures and film.
Walking back to our hotel, it was fun to see people posing for wedding photos in front of the tower. Dressed in white with a floral bouquet, one bride happily joined hands with the groom for a joyful leap into the air for a whimsical photo. Looking above the tower, several jets were streaking by high above. What an amazing view they must have.
In the late afternoon we took a bus to Avenue de Champ Elysees. I don't think any trip to Paris is complete without a brief stroll down the street just window shopping and enjoying the ambiance. Cafes with colorful awnings and crisp white tablecloths set with gleaming crystal wine glasses were in full swing. Passing by Louis Vuitton, I was amazed at the size of the store along with Cartier. Employees in crisply pressed suits and shined shoes stood proudly in the doorway, probably as a signal it's a prestigious store for serious buyers only.
Perhaps most amazing to me were several elegant car showrooms: Renault, Peugeot, and Toyota. To me it did not look like a place to actually buy a car, it was more a place to admire future models. Ranging from sleek hybrids to stylish futuristic sports cars, each car sat gleaming on a pedestal. Most astonishing to us was that people were warmly welcomed in to simply pose with the cars. Grown businessmen in suits giggled at photos of themselves in front of race cars and it seemed as if every nationality was represented. In addition to cars, each showroom had a stylish selection of gifts including miniature models of cars, key chains and wallets, and even sophisticated leather covered pepper grinders.
Standing proudly in the middle of a roundabout on the Champs Elysees is the Arc de Triomphe. To access it, thankfully there is an underground walkway. After passing the eternal flame honoring an unknown soldier under the arch, we looked above to see the flags of France and the EU proudly handing from the arch and dancing in the breeze. Climbing the approximately 280 steps to the top, we joined the other happy breathless tourists at a museum area inside the arch where interactive displays allow you to get a glimpse of the reliefs on the arch up close. Outside, the view from the top is spectacular and it's fun to see the Eiffel Tower from another view.
Strolling back to our hotel along the dimly lit tree lined gravel paths, we couldn't help but stop and take one more look at the Eiffel Tower. Lit by floodlights, it glows a royal blue. A searchlight shining as a beacon of light streaks across the sky. Right on cue, at 10:00, the tower lit up with thousands of twinkling lights. Seeing the look of pure joy on every one's face and the beautiful twinkling tower, I took a mental photograph of it in my mind to remember always until we return to Paris again.
Aug 22nd, 2008, 03:25 PM
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August 18: Taking in some of Paris' "Greatest Hits"
It was slightly cloudy when we awoke this morning. Feeling confident that it would be a warm, breezy day, we headed out without jackets or umbrellas and we were right. It was the perfect day for touring Paris.
Studying the bus schedule carefully, we hopped on board the city bus with map in hand. The only problem was we went in the wrong direction to the end of the line. Thankfully the driver was very understanding and let us ride back the other way to get off at our first sight of the day, Notre Dame. Following an English tour guide inside, we learned that Notre Dame is 30 meters high. Surprisingly, for centuries no one paid much attention to its Gothic architecture until Victor Hugo's book was published.
Notre Dame is enormous inside. It holds 10,000 people and 50-75% of the stained glass is original. As we stepped outside the cathedral, we were amazed at the long lines to get in and especially to climb the tower which we had been hoping to do. Instead we visited Sainte Chapelle. Here there are two sanctuaries, one on top of the other. The upper sanctuary has stained glass windows that are a feast for the eyes. There are 15 panels of original glass with 1100 scenes telling stories from the Bible. We learned that what is believed by many to be the crown of thorns was once housed here. It is now in Notre Dame.
Just a short walk down the street is the Conciergerie. During the French Revolution it was a prison. The first room we visited which had been the guards dining room, was known as the cavalrymen's room. It's from the early 14th century and is the oldest surviving medieval hall in Europe. We also visited Marie Antoinette's cell which had the original wallpaper. The furniture there was not hers, but from that time.
Strolling past the Louvre we couldn't resist the urge to go in. Knowing that this is a monumental museum requiring many visits, we decided to just visit some of the highlights. The glass pyramid in front is actually a lot smaller than I thought it would be, but it's a grand way to make an entrance. Inside we sought out some of the major masterpieces of the western world. The Venus de Milo statue stood on a pedestal with adoring fans surrounding it taking pictures or listening to information on their audio-visual guide. We also saw Giotto's St. Francis of Assisi Receiving the Stigmata. Tour guides stood in front of it talking softly so that only those wearing headphones could hear. Raphael's La Belle Jardinere was stunning and again it was easy to locate due to the crowd around it. The most crowded area was the gallery with Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa. It seemed so small compared to the size of the room. Also, given its enormous popularity, the Louvre has the painting behind a protective glass and prevents viewers from getting too close to the artwork. Still, people posed for pictures with it snapping pictures left and right.
The sun was shining brightly as we wandered through Tuileries Garden. All of the seasonal flowers were in full bloom and ducks floated gracefully in a man-made pond. Just up the path from the gardens is the Orangerie Museum. Here we saw 8 huge curved panels showing reflections of the sky, clouds, and willow trees on a pond with water lilies. Monet painted this masterpiece for the museum and they are so peaceful. As you admire the panels you can see the changes in the day from dawn to sunset. The Orangerie also houses an amazing collection of other fine works by artists such as Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse, and Picasso.
In the evening we took a cab across town to Notre Dame to hear a classical music concert. It featured a soprano, mezzo soprano, and the organ of Notre Dame. We felt so privileged to be able to hear the actual church organist play Bach and Mozart and his music reverberated throughout the cathedral. Back on Rue Cler, all of the cafes were in full swing and we felt very content after a busy day.
It was slightly cloudy when we awoke this morning. Feeling confident that it would be a warm, breezy day, we headed out without jackets or umbrellas and we were right. It was the perfect day for touring Paris.
Studying the bus schedule carefully, we hopped on board the city bus with map in hand. The only problem was we went in the wrong direction to the end of the line. Thankfully the driver was very understanding and let us ride back the other way to get off at our first sight of the day, Notre Dame. Following an English tour guide inside, we learned that Notre Dame is 30 meters high. Surprisingly, for centuries no one paid much attention to its Gothic architecture until Victor Hugo's book was published.
Notre Dame is enormous inside. It holds 10,000 people and 50-75% of the stained glass is original. As we stepped outside the cathedral, we were amazed at the long lines to get in and especially to climb the tower which we had been hoping to do. Instead we visited Sainte Chapelle. Here there are two sanctuaries, one on top of the other. The upper sanctuary has stained glass windows that are a feast for the eyes. There are 15 panels of original glass with 1100 scenes telling stories from the Bible. We learned that what is believed by many to be the crown of thorns was once housed here. It is now in Notre Dame.
Just a short walk down the street is the Conciergerie. During the French Revolution it was a prison. The first room we visited which had been the guards dining room, was known as the cavalrymen's room. It's from the early 14th century and is the oldest surviving medieval hall in Europe. We also visited Marie Antoinette's cell which had the original wallpaper. The furniture there was not hers, but from that time.
Strolling past the Louvre we couldn't resist the urge to go in. Knowing that this is a monumental museum requiring many visits, we decided to just visit some of the highlights. The glass pyramid in front is actually a lot smaller than I thought it would be, but it's a grand way to make an entrance. Inside we sought out some of the major masterpieces of the western world. The Venus de Milo statue stood on a pedestal with adoring fans surrounding it taking pictures or listening to information on their audio-visual guide. We also saw Giotto's St. Francis of Assisi Receiving the Stigmata. Tour guides stood in front of it talking softly so that only those wearing headphones could hear. Raphael's La Belle Jardinere was stunning and again it was easy to locate due to the crowd around it. The most crowded area was the gallery with Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa. It seemed so small compared to the size of the room. Also, given its enormous popularity, the Louvre has the painting behind a protective glass and prevents viewers from getting too close to the artwork. Still, people posed for pictures with it snapping pictures left and right.
The sun was shining brightly as we wandered through Tuileries Garden. All of the seasonal flowers were in full bloom and ducks floated gracefully in a man-made pond. Just up the path from the gardens is the Orangerie Museum. Here we saw 8 huge curved panels showing reflections of the sky, clouds, and willow trees on a pond with water lilies. Monet painted this masterpiece for the museum and they are so peaceful. As you admire the panels you can see the changes in the day from dawn to sunset. The Orangerie also houses an amazing collection of other fine works by artists such as Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse, and Picasso.
In the evening we took a cab across town to Notre Dame to hear a classical music concert. It featured a soprano, mezzo soprano, and the organ of Notre Dame. We felt so privileged to be able to hear the actual church organist play Bach and Mozart and his music reverberated throughout the cathedral. Back on Rue Cler, all of the cafes were in full swing and we felt very content after a busy day.
Aug 22nd, 2008, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the lovely report! I'm going to Paris for a week in early October, and I can't wait! This will be my 6th trip, so I've seen most of the places you mention--it's nice to get the mental images refreshed.
Barb
Barb
Aug 23rd, 2008, 04:32 AM
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LC, Barb, hp:
Thanks so much for your comments. A first trip to Paris, while exciting and rewarding, leaves one longing for more.
Thin, I'm afraid that I'm not familiar with Deyolle, but I do hope it has re-opened and you can obtain that special bunny.
Thanks so much for your comments. A first trip to Paris, while exciting and rewarding, leaves one longing for more.
Thin, I'm afraid that I'm not familiar with Deyolle, but I do hope it has re-opened and you can obtain that special bunny.
Aug 23rd, 2008, 02:29 PM
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Oh, thanks! That is so nice of you.
Mimi (Cigalechanta) has emailed me lovely photos of Deyrolle before the horrid fire.
I just don't know where I will find a stuffed bunny. I guess I will just have to start googling taxidermy shops.
Thingorjus
Mimi (Cigalechanta) has emailed me lovely photos of Deyrolle before the horrid fire.
I just don't know where I will find a stuffed bunny. I guess I will just have to start googling taxidermy shops.
Thingorjus
Aug 23rd, 2008, 05:34 PM
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Thin, you can go look at these places and see if they carry 'gifts'...
http://maison-jardin.118000.fr/v_par...-entomologiste
Claude Nature 32 blvd St Germain 75005
http://www.claudenature.com/
http://www.foodandwine.com/thingtodo...e-france-paris
http://maison-jardin.118000.fr/v_par...-entomologiste
Claude Nature 32 blvd St Germain 75005
http://www.claudenature.com/
http://www.foodandwine.com/thingtodo...e-france-paris
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