Trip Report: Paris, Provence and the Riviera
Jul 18th, 2006, 09:59 AM
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Trip Report: Paris, Provence and the Riviera
Hello,
I posted earlier to thank all the Fodorites whose expertise and insight helped make my trip to France the trip of a lifetime. Here is a little more about my trip:
My husband and I arrived in Paris from Toronto on May 11. May I just say, I love Air France! Comfortable seats, no delays, they remembered my vegetarian meal, and we had our own video screens with a choice of movies and video games.
It was an overnight flight so we arrived at 8:45 am. A quick RER trip later and we emerged from the Metro into the city. It’s amazing that the second you emerge you know exactly where you are. I’d forgotten how the air smelled in Paris. And why don’t they build buildings that look like that anymore?
We found our hotel, the Timhotel le Louvre, with no trouble, but it was too early to check in, so we left our bags and set out to explore. We had been concerned about jetlag, but excitement must have counteracted it, because I was full of energy, despite not sleeping on the plane. We walked to Ile de la Cite and had our first meal in France, a typical (yet delicious) tourist meal of crepes with nutella and coffee. Our first stop was Notre Dame. What a beautiful start to our trip. Inside it was quiet tranquility, outside it was a riot of beautiful flowers. Best of all, though, was overhead.
I wasn’t sure whether it was worth it to climb the tower - It was, if definitely was! Climbing the narrow, shambling staircases was like going back in time. No, actually it was like disappearing into fiction, with the characters of the Hunchback of Notre Dame coming to life. Then, emerging at the top with Paris stretched out as far as you can see, the Seine winding around you and the French Tricolore flying on the building next door – one of those iconic, “remember-for-the-rest-of –your-life” experiences. I also developed a fondness for all of the expressive gargoyles that live up there. One of them now haunts my bookshelf and looks down on me with his tongue out as I write.
The next stop was the Eiffel Tower. It had begun to rain, the lines were long and jetlag was starting to catch up with us. After being shoved into the first elevator by a group of really pushy tourists and taking in the view on the first level, we decided we could say we’d been there and much preferred to move on than wait for the elevator to the top. It may be a criminal offence to say so, but I didn’t like it. I appreciate it better when it is further away. I know you could never convince someone going to Paris that it’s not worth seeing, but I wouldn’t go again.
Tired, damp, and cold we wandered away from the Eiffel Tower not knowing where to go next. We hadn’t planned much because of our concern about being jetlagged, but it was still only early afternoon. That’s when we spotted the Batobus entrance across from the tower. If I’d dreamed it, I couldn’t have come up with a more perfect mode of transportation. We could just sit back and watch the city reveal itself to us as we floated along in warm, sheltered, affordable comfort. It was beautiful, plus it gave us the chance to rest and revive our flagging spirits. We hopped off at the Louvre and took the quick walk back to our hotel. Our room was nice, with a view of the street (I’ll post a picture later of the extraordinary building across the street – maybe someone can tell me what it is) and a comfy bed.
Huddled under an umbrella we started on what turned out to be a long but lovely search for a restaurant for dinner. We had one in mind, but never succeeded in finding it. Nonetheless, we found a perfect little brasserie on Rue St. Honore. After a dinner of yummy quiche and Provencal rose wine, we went to sleep an entire world away from where we had woken up.
Phew. That’s day one. More to come!
I posted earlier to thank all the Fodorites whose expertise and insight helped make my trip to France the trip of a lifetime. Here is a little more about my trip:
My husband and I arrived in Paris from Toronto on May 11. May I just say, I love Air France! Comfortable seats, no delays, they remembered my vegetarian meal, and we had our own video screens with a choice of movies and video games.
It was an overnight flight so we arrived at 8:45 am. A quick RER trip later and we emerged from the Metro into the city. It’s amazing that the second you emerge you know exactly where you are. I’d forgotten how the air smelled in Paris. And why don’t they build buildings that look like that anymore?
We found our hotel, the Timhotel le Louvre, with no trouble, but it was too early to check in, so we left our bags and set out to explore. We had been concerned about jetlag, but excitement must have counteracted it, because I was full of energy, despite not sleeping on the plane. We walked to Ile de la Cite and had our first meal in France, a typical (yet delicious) tourist meal of crepes with nutella and coffee. Our first stop was Notre Dame. What a beautiful start to our trip. Inside it was quiet tranquility, outside it was a riot of beautiful flowers. Best of all, though, was overhead.
I wasn’t sure whether it was worth it to climb the tower - It was, if definitely was! Climbing the narrow, shambling staircases was like going back in time. No, actually it was like disappearing into fiction, with the characters of the Hunchback of Notre Dame coming to life. Then, emerging at the top with Paris stretched out as far as you can see, the Seine winding around you and the French Tricolore flying on the building next door – one of those iconic, “remember-for-the-rest-of –your-life” experiences. I also developed a fondness for all of the expressive gargoyles that live up there. One of them now haunts my bookshelf and looks down on me with his tongue out as I write.
The next stop was the Eiffel Tower. It had begun to rain, the lines were long and jetlag was starting to catch up with us. After being shoved into the first elevator by a group of really pushy tourists and taking in the view on the first level, we decided we could say we’d been there and much preferred to move on than wait for the elevator to the top. It may be a criminal offence to say so, but I didn’t like it. I appreciate it better when it is further away. I know you could never convince someone going to Paris that it’s not worth seeing, but I wouldn’t go again.
Tired, damp, and cold we wandered away from the Eiffel Tower not knowing where to go next. We hadn’t planned much because of our concern about being jetlagged, but it was still only early afternoon. That’s when we spotted the Batobus entrance across from the tower. If I’d dreamed it, I couldn’t have come up with a more perfect mode of transportation. We could just sit back and watch the city reveal itself to us as we floated along in warm, sheltered, affordable comfort. It was beautiful, plus it gave us the chance to rest and revive our flagging spirits. We hopped off at the Louvre and took the quick walk back to our hotel. Our room was nice, with a view of the street (I’ll post a picture later of the extraordinary building across the street – maybe someone can tell me what it is) and a comfy bed.
Huddled under an umbrella we started on what turned out to be a long but lovely search for a restaurant for dinner. We had one in mind, but never succeeded in finding it. Nonetheless, we found a perfect little brasserie on Rue St. Honore. After a dinner of yummy quiche and Provencal rose wine, we went to sleep an entire world away from where we had woken up.
Phew. That’s day one. More to come!
Jul 19th, 2006, 06:39 AM
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We were up early on the second day of our trip. It was the first Sunday of the month, free museum day. Not to mention that the next day, our last full day in Paris, was a holiday, so it was now or never. We had planned an ambitious itinerary including the Louvre, the Centre Pomidou and the Picasso Museum.
We began with the Louvre since it was closest and, we assumed, would be busiest. We arrived at opening time to find a line-up snaking from the glass pyramid right around the courtyard. We joined in and were happy to find it moved very quickly.
Now, I’m well aware that it is impossible to see the entire Louvre in a day, let alone a third of a day, but we just wanted to get a taste. Thankfully, the Louvre website made that possible. I wish every museum had a website this wonderful. My favourite part of the website was the theme trails. I had printed to several and they proved invaluable. Too often I wander through museums with no deeper thought in my head than “Oh, look at the pretty pictures…” There is value to this sort of sensory appreciation, but with such a wealth of cultural history before me, I felt it would be a waste to not have a little more knowledge. The tours provided both directions to find the works, historical context and commentary on the works. It was a very rich experience and also helped save time. When I return, I’ll be sure to take the tour which focuses on the history of the building. That itself is perhaps the greatest work of art.
Now, to answer the question that everyone seems to ask, yes, I saw the Mona Lisa. Briefly. I think the experience has been diminished by the Da Vinci Code. Regardless of your opinion of the book, and I myself enjoyed it, its impact can’t be denied. It is manifested here in the policy that you cannot stop in front of the painting. It must be viewed on the run as you walk past through a queue full of other speed-viewers. Who am I to question the curators of the Louvre, and yet, it seems to me that perhaps this is not the best way to view a masterpiece.
We followed the Louvre with a stroll through the Tuileries gardens, perhaps my favourite place in Paris. The chairs by the circular fountains must be the most comfortable seats in the world, welcoming as they do weary museum-goers and Champs Elysee walkers.
Next in my itinerary, I owe a great debt to the posters on this message board who recommended Angelina’s. I am a great connoisseur of hot chocolate, but never have I tasted anything even close to the paradise in a cup that is Angelina’s African hot chocolate. It was thick and impossibly rich. My only regret about this visit is that in the name of nutrition I didn’t order the Mont Blanc pastry. I still wonder to this moment what it tastes like. Never again will I choose lunch over dessert.
But time was moving on far too quickly as it always does when you’re on vacation and it was time for us to make our way to the Centre Pompidou. What a fun building. I had no idea it was possible to be cool and playful at the same time. And I loved the fountain full of sculpture behind the building. Inside we were thrilled to find out that there was a special exhibit on Jean Luc Godard, my husband’s favourite filmmaker, only to have our hopes dashed after we learned it didn’t start until the next week. It was a recurring theme on our trip. There is a downside to traveling in the off-season.
But, having both studied film, we thoroughly enjoyed the exhibit on cinema. There was also an exhibit on photography of Los Angeles, but it cost extra and we were on a tight schedule, so we browsed for a few hours and moved on.
The next stop was the Picasso Museum. We had a little trouble finding it, but finally located it by the long line-up snaking down the street. The day had started out cold, but the sun was shining and as the line turned the corner into the courtyard of the museum, I had one of those moments of pure, inexplicable happiness. Some people don’t have the opportunity to see in a lifetime the great art we had seen in a day. The Picasso museum was the first and only museum on our trip that I would describe as crowded. No wonder. I couldn’t pick a favourite, with so many amazing works in one place. One that does stand out in my mind is his painting of Sacre Coeur.
We went for dinner at a café just around the corner. I convinced my husband to try quiche for the first time and he is now a blissful convert. We decided to buy some bread and nutella and make our own breakfasts for a few days. It’s funny how something as simple as going to the store becomes an adventure with the right mindset. I wish I could get this excited about grocery shopping at home. We went to bed early and exhausted, ready for another busy day the next day, Jour de la Victoire en Europe.
We began with the Louvre since it was closest and, we assumed, would be busiest. We arrived at opening time to find a line-up snaking from the glass pyramid right around the courtyard. We joined in and were happy to find it moved very quickly.
Now, I’m well aware that it is impossible to see the entire Louvre in a day, let alone a third of a day, but we just wanted to get a taste. Thankfully, the Louvre website made that possible. I wish every museum had a website this wonderful. My favourite part of the website was the theme trails. I had printed to several and they proved invaluable. Too often I wander through museums with no deeper thought in my head than “Oh, look at the pretty pictures…” There is value to this sort of sensory appreciation, but with such a wealth of cultural history before me, I felt it would be a waste to not have a little more knowledge. The tours provided both directions to find the works, historical context and commentary on the works. It was a very rich experience and also helped save time. When I return, I’ll be sure to take the tour which focuses on the history of the building. That itself is perhaps the greatest work of art.
Now, to answer the question that everyone seems to ask, yes, I saw the Mona Lisa. Briefly. I think the experience has been diminished by the Da Vinci Code. Regardless of your opinion of the book, and I myself enjoyed it, its impact can’t be denied. It is manifested here in the policy that you cannot stop in front of the painting. It must be viewed on the run as you walk past through a queue full of other speed-viewers. Who am I to question the curators of the Louvre, and yet, it seems to me that perhaps this is not the best way to view a masterpiece.
We followed the Louvre with a stroll through the Tuileries gardens, perhaps my favourite place in Paris. The chairs by the circular fountains must be the most comfortable seats in the world, welcoming as they do weary museum-goers and Champs Elysee walkers.
Next in my itinerary, I owe a great debt to the posters on this message board who recommended Angelina’s. I am a great connoisseur of hot chocolate, but never have I tasted anything even close to the paradise in a cup that is Angelina’s African hot chocolate. It was thick and impossibly rich. My only regret about this visit is that in the name of nutrition I didn’t order the Mont Blanc pastry. I still wonder to this moment what it tastes like. Never again will I choose lunch over dessert.
But time was moving on far too quickly as it always does when you’re on vacation and it was time for us to make our way to the Centre Pompidou. What a fun building. I had no idea it was possible to be cool and playful at the same time. And I loved the fountain full of sculpture behind the building. Inside we were thrilled to find out that there was a special exhibit on Jean Luc Godard, my husband’s favourite filmmaker, only to have our hopes dashed after we learned it didn’t start until the next week. It was a recurring theme on our trip. There is a downside to traveling in the off-season.
But, having both studied film, we thoroughly enjoyed the exhibit on cinema. There was also an exhibit on photography of Los Angeles, but it cost extra and we were on a tight schedule, so we browsed for a few hours and moved on.
The next stop was the Picasso Museum. We had a little trouble finding it, but finally located it by the long line-up snaking down the street. The day had started out cold, but the sun was shining and as the line turned the corner into the courtyard of the museum, I had one of those moments of pure, inexplicable happiness. Some people don’t have the opportunity to see in a lifetime the great art we had seen in a day. The Picasso museum was the first and only museum on our trip that I would describe as crowded. No wonder. I couldn’t pick a favourite, with so many amazing works in one place. One that does stand out in my mind is his painting of Sacre Coeur.
We went for dinner at a café just around the corner. I convinced my husband to try quiche for the first time and he is now a blissful convert. We decided to buy some bread and nutella and make our own breakfasts for a few days. It’s funny how something as simple as going to the store becomes an adventure with the right mindset. I wish I could get this excited about grocery shopping at home. We went to bed early and exhausted, ready for another busy day the next day, Jour de la Victoire en Europe.
Jul 20th, 2006, 07:40 AM
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Day three dawned cold again. I had planned on warmer weather and this was day three in the same sweater. But we set off early because we knew there was to be a parade on the Champs Elysee but we didn’t know when. We walked through the Tuileries again and kept going straight down the Champs Elysee. I had forgotten how long it was. My memory had condensed it in to a block or two. There were scores of military and police around, but no crowd to watch the parade.
Needing a chance to warm up, we went inside Georges V for breakfast. There were outdoor seats that would have a great view of the parade but we preferred the slightly smokey heat of in the indoor dining room. I ordered hot chocolate (better than most, but not Angelina’s) and my first French omelet. How do they get them so fluffy? We lingered for quite a while, but still no parade. People were starting to gather outside, though, so we went and grabbed a spot street-side. I think it was about an hour before the parade started. It didn’t begin with a bang, but kind of faded in. The parade was entirely military bands and troops marching. All the members of their military looked so young, as though they were all in their teens still. There was a bit of excitement as a car drove by, and we heard murmurs that it was the president. Then the crowd thinned by half but the parade kept going.
After it ended, we hopped on the Metro to Montmartre. Things immediately became more touristy and a little more seedy when we emerged. We took the funicular up the hill, getting harassed in line by an aggressive panhandler. It was the only time anyone bothered us at all on our entire trip. At the top, it felt somehow surreal being so close to the Sacre Coeur Church. It has stood on the hill overlooking the city like an icon in my mind for so long that it had become vaguely unreal. Now here it was, here I was, with the city at my feet. It was breathtaking. Inside the church was lovely, with a very different style of religious art. Some of it seemed almost comic-book like, brilliant and dynamic in its colours.
The day had finally begun to warm up as we headed down the street to Place du Tertre. A lady sang while playing an organ-grinder while artists gathered around the many cafes gathered in the centre of the square selling their art. I briefly considered buying one of the wildly overpriced works, but was persuaded to wait. We studied our map and finally figured out how to get to the Salvador Dali Museum. The museum is rather small compared to the Picasso museum, but admission includes a free audio tour. (in our pictures, it looks like we’re always talking on antique cell phones!) I was a little disappointed that the museum didn’t have more paintings. Instead, it was mostly illustrations done for books, interspersed with a few excellent sculptures.
Afterward, we headed for lunch at Place du Tertre, at a restaurant called Le Cremiere (I believe, I’ll have to confirm that), a meal highlighted by large portions of goat cheese, for me, huge anchovies for my husband, and very aggressive birds.
Afterwards, we found a bakery around the corner and I finally got to try to elusive “macarons” I had heard about on these boards. I don’t know what flavours I got, but they were delicious! A tiny crunch on the outside, fluffy, soft and moist in the middle, creamy filling and delicate, mysterious flavouring…I didn’t know what to expect but am now deeply bitter that I am unable to get these treats at home!
I munched the sweets as we walked around the corner past a community garden in search of the Lapin Agile. Both my husband and I were captivated by the play “Picasso at the Lapin Agile” and were determine to seek it out even though we knew it was closed that day. We finally found it, but had to settle for peering through the window. It was worth it.
That was the last stop on agenda, so we wandered a little in the area. We saw the Bateau Lavoir where Picasso had a studio and wandered through the Montmartre Cemetery. We sought out the tombs of Francois Truffault, the new-wave filmmaker and Alexander Dumas. I was puzzled as to why people had thrown their subway tickets on Truffault’s grave until I was reminded that he had made a film called “Metro”. Duh.
We made our way to Pigalle to see the Moulin Rouge, but I had little desire to stay for a show. A group of kids were having a little fun at tourists’ expense by dropping a (fake) bloody hand on a string out their window whenever someone was walking by, thus scaring the wits out of them. We watched across the street for a while, but the kids were soon scared back inside to hide out for a while.
At this point my husband decided he needed to try one of the coin operated public toilets on the street. No typical toilets, these. They lock between users and self-clean. Very space-aged, but my husband tells me they don’t do a very good job. Thankfully, an experience I can only pass on second-hand.
We went out for dinner at the Auberge Du Louvre near our hotel. Everything about it was just okay, but nothing to write home about. I learned that while I love crème brulee, I am not a fan of crème caramel. It was a cold, gelatinous cylinder of flavorless mush. I made amends to the dessert-gods by heading back to the hotel and eating more of my macarons.
Needing a chance to warm up, we went inside Georges V for breakfast. There were outdoor seats that would have a great view of the parade but we preferred the slightly smokey heat of in the indoor dining room. I ordered hot chocolate (better than most, but not Angelina’s) and my first French omelet. How do they get them so fluffy? We lingered for quite a while, but still no parade. People were starting to gather outside, though, so we went and grabbed a spot street-side. I think it was about an hour before the parade started. It didn’t begin with a bang, but kind of faded in. The parade was entirely military bands and troops marching. All the members of their military looked so young, as though they were all in their teens still. There was a bit of excitement as a car drove by, and we heard murmurs that it was the president. Then the crowd thinned by half but the parade kept going.
After it ended, we hopped on the Metro to Montmartre. Things immediately became more touristy and a little more seedy when we emerged. We took the funicular up the hill, getting harassed in line by an aggressive panhandler. It was the only time anyone bothered us at all on our entire trip. At the top, it felt somehow surreal being so close to the Sacre Coeur Church. It has stood on the hill overlooking the city like an icon in my mind for so long that it had become vaguely unreal. Now here it was, here I was, with the city at my feet. It was breathtaking. Inside the church was lovely, with a very different style of religious art. Some of it seemed almost comic-book like, brilliant and dynamic in its colours.
The day had finally begun to warm up as we headed down the street to Place du Tertre. A lady sang while playing an organ-grinder while artists gathered around the many cafes gathered in the centre of the square selling their art. I briefly considered buying one of the wildly overpriced works, but was persuaded to wait. We studied our map and finally figured out how to get to the Salvador Dali Museum. The museum is rather small compared to the Picasso museum, but admission includes a free audio tour. (in our pictures, it looks like we’re always talking on antique cell phones!) I was a little disappointed that the museum didn’t have more paintings. Instead, it was mostly illustrations done for books, interspersed with a few excellent sculptures.
Afterward, we headed for lunch at Place du Tertre, at a restaurant called Le Cremiere (I believe, I’ll have to confirm that), a meal highlighted by large portions of goat cheese, for me, huge anchovies for my husband, and very aggressive birds.
Afterwards, we found a bakery around the corner and I finally got to try to elusive “macarons” I had heard about on these boards. I don’t know what flavours I got, but they were delicious! A tiny crunch on the outside, fluffy, soft and moist in the middle, creamy filling and delicate, mysterious flavouring…I didn’t know what to expect but am now deeply bitter that I am unable to get these treats at home!
I munched the sweets as we walked around the corner past a community garden in search of the Lapin Agile. Both my husband and I were captivated by the play “Picasso at the Lapin Agile” and were determine to seek it out even though we knew it was closed that day. We finally found it, but had to settle for peering through the window. It was worth it.
That was the last stop on agenda, so we wandered a little in the area. We saw the Bateau Lavoir where Picasso had a studio and wandered through the Montmartre Cemetery. We sought out the tombs of Francois Truffault, the new-wave filmmaker and Alexander Dumas. I was puzzled as to why people had thrown their subway tickets on Truffault’s grave until I was reminded that he had made a film called “Metro”. Duh.
We made our way to Pigalle to see the Moulin Rouge, but I had little desire to stay for a show. A group of kids were having a little fun at tourists’ expense by dropping a (fake) bloody hand on a string out their window whenever someone was walking by, thus scaring the wits out of them. We watched across the street for a while, but the kids were soon scared back inside to hide out for a while.
At this point my husband decided he needed to try one of the coin operated public toilets on the street. No typical toilets, these. They lock between users and self-clean. Very space-aged, but my husband tells me they don’t do a very good job. Thankfully, an experience I can only pass on second-hand.
We went out for dinner at the Auberge Du Louvre near our hotel. Everything about it was just okay, but nothing to write home about. I learned that while I love crème brulee, I am not a fan of crème caramel. It was a cold, gelatinous cylinder of flavorless mush. I made amends to the dessert-gods by heading back to the hotel and eating more of my macarons.
Jul 21st, 2006, 08:25 AM
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Another installment, though I'm sure I've alredy bored everyone to sleep.
One bad day:
The next day was our trip to Versailles and the first spot of trouble. We left early so as to arrive around the time it opened. It was cold, again, and rainy, but I was excited about seeing the Palace. We found the Platform for the RER line C with no trouble, but the ticket window was closed. We had to climb up and down the stairs and over to the other side to get tickets. Not a problem, but when we came back the train was there and about to leave. We made a mad dash and caught it, sitting down with a sigh of relief.
The relief was short-lived. Depite all my research, despite double-checking guide book directions against the Paris RATP website, nowhere did I learn that there are actually 5 RER C trains, all going in different directions. The first few stops were the same, so I relaxed. It was about 30 minutes later when I started to wonder when we would get there. I found the map on the train car wall, but couldn't figure out where we were. Then I looked far, FAR from where we were supposed to be. We realized we had to get off. It cost us 10 euros and over an hour just to get back to where we started.
We were way behind our schedule, cold, tired and kicking ourselves for the stupid mistake by the time we arrived. We should have eaten at the first place we saw, but we tried to find a restaurant I had read about. We never did find it, and found ourselves far from the Palace. We went for a long slog through the grounds, what would normally be a lovely walk if we were so cold and wet.
When we got closer to the palace we saw people zipping around in rented golf carts and felt a stir of envy. But we didn't rent one. Instead, we lined up and went inside. The man at the ticket window was kind enough to tell us that if we waited five minutes, we could get in at a discounted rate, so that's what we did.
The rooms were lovely, though crowded, often by tour groups with a sense of entitlement who would walk directly in front of you when you were trying to look at something. More than half of the hall of mirrors was covered and being renovated which ruined a lot of the effect. Still, I got a thrill seeing the iconic portrait of Louis XIV. I think I might enjoy it more if I was there on a warmer day when I could explore the grounds.
We went home to our hotel after only about two hours in Versailles, gave up and ate a dinner of nutella sandwiches and went to bed a little disheartened, not only by the shortcomings of our trip to Versaille, but by my ability to cope with a bad situation.
The next day we were on our way to Provence and things were sure to look up!
One bad day:
The next day was our trip to Versailles and the first spot of trouble. We left early so as to arrive around the time it opened. It was cold, again, and rainy, but I was excited about seeing the Palace. We found the Platform for the RER line C with no trouble, but the ticket window was closed. We had to climb up and down the stairs and over to the other side to get tickets. Not a problem, but when we came back the train was there and about to leave. We made a mad dash and caught it, sitting down with a sigh of relief.
The relief was short-lived. Depite all my research, despite double-checking guide book directions against the Paris RATP website, nowhere did I learn that there are actually 5 RER C trains, all going in different directions. The first few stops were the same, so I relaxed. It was about 30 minutes later when I started to wonder when we would get there. I found the map on the train car wall, but couldn't figure out where we were. Then I looked far, FAR from where we were supposed to be. We realized we had to get off. It cost us 10 euros and over an hour just to get back to where we started.
We were way behind our schedule, cold, tired and kicking ourselves for the stupid mistake by the time we arrived. We should have eaten at the first place we saw, but we tried to find a restaurant I had read about. We never did find it, and found ourselves far from the Palace. We went for a long slog through the grounds, what would normally be a lovely walk if we were so cold and wet.
When we got closer to the palace we saw people zipping around in rented golf carts and felt a stir of envy. But we didn't rent one. Instead, we lined up and went inside. The man at the ticket window was kind enough to tell us that if we waited five minutes, we could get in at a discounted rate, so that's what we did.
The rooms were lovely, though crowded, often by tour groups with a sense of entitlement who would walk directly in front of you when you were trying to look at something. More than half of the hall of mirrors was covered and being renovated which ruined a lot of the effect. Still, I got a thrill seeing the iconic portrait of Louis XIV. I think I might enjoy it more if I was there on a warmer day when I could explore the grounds.
We went home to our hotel after only about two hours in Versailles, gave up and ate a dinner of nutella sandwiches and went to bed a little disheartened, not only by the shortcomings of our trip to Versaille, but by my ability to cope with a bad situation.
The next day we were on our way to Provence and things were sure to look up!
Jul 21st, 2006, 09:00 AM
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I have to say, I love hearing that people are reading. I'd still post even if no one was, just in case it could help someone in the future, but it's good to know I'm not alone in cyberspace!!
Jul 21st, 2006, 09:10 AM
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Well I'm reading. I chuckled because my point of view of the Eiffel Tower is like yours...LOVE IT, from far away!
I stayed around the Louvre my last trip...I look forward to your photos...and reading about the south!
I stayed around the Louvre my last trip...I look forward to your photos...and reading about the south!
Jul 27th, 2006, 08:36 AM
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Keep going handbags - lovely to hear about your trip!
I agree with the Eiffel experience, which I think one has to do in order to compare, but I enjoyed the top of Tour Montparnasse view of Paris very much.
I agree with the Eiffel experience, which I think one has to do in order to compare, but I enjoyed the top of Tour Montparnasse view of Paris very much.
Jul 27th, 2006, 08:59 AM
#15
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Sorry for the long delay since my last post, but I wrote a LOOONG post and then lost it. Since then, it’s been busy here. But, without further delay, here it is....
When last I wrote, we were leaving Paris for the south of France. Our train left early in the morning and took three hours to arrive in Avignon. One nice feature about this train is that you get to choose which section you want to sit in, the Zen area for people who want to travel in quiet to sleep or relax, or the section designed for socializing. We choose the Zen section. Unfortunately, the women seated across from us did not understand the concept. We were amused, though, because they made the assumption that we didn’t speak English and proceeded to talk about us. After a few minutes, I asked my husband, in English, if he wanted to go get something to eat and we enjoyed their efforts to hide their surprised expressions as we headed for the dining car. After a yummy standing breakfast and a short ride, we arrived in the sunny city of Avignon. I was worried about how we’d get from the TGV station to the old town since it looked far on the map, and it was, but the city bus ran frequently and couldn’t be easier to figure out.
A few observations on Avignon: It is much bigger than I expected. It’s really a city, not a village. With our limited time, we only explored the old town.
The old town still has a bad neighbourhood, where people looked at us strangely as we were walking down the street. It was afternoon, so I didn’t feel unsafe, but I wouldn’t want to walk there alone at night.
There were a LOT of dogs. It sometimes felt like every second person in the street has one. But they were all very well behaved and never jumped up or even barked.
Our hotel was the Hotel Danieli on the Rue de la Republique. It was a nice room with big windows that opened and a view of the courtyard, decorated with Provencal fabrics. The only strange thing for me was the shower, which was hand-held and had no curtain.
We started out by exploring the area around the Palace of the Popes. The square in front was lively, with lots of street performers, musicians, and artists selling their wares. Behind the palace is a garden. This is the perfect spot to start a visit to Avignon. The views of the town, the palace and the Rhone river are wonderful.
Next we went to the Pont D’Avignon/ Pont St. Benezet Bridge. To get to the bridge, the clever entrepreneurs of the village have created a winding labyrinth past and through a series of souvenir shops, all of which are selling annoying Cigalle souvenirs, giant bugs which, I am happy to say, I never saw once during my visits. Maybe they’re a problem at another time of the year. I’m glad I missed that.
The audio tour is free with admission and it’s worth it (even though we look like we’re talking on eighties cell phones in every picture) just to listen to the song about the bridge while you’re standing on it. It will be stuck in your head for the rest of the day.
We went for lunch at a restaurant I had read about online, the Pause Gourmand. It’s a little off the beaten path, and we got there just before they closed. Lucky us! It was a delicious meal, with onion pizza for an appetizer and vegetable tart for the main, plus lemon tart for dessert.
After lunch, with no planned itinerary, we wandered the streets, browsing in shops and looking for a place to have dinner.
We finally settled on a restaurant in the square in front of the Palace of the Popes. It was here that we encountered our first difficult waiter. I asked for tap water, and he instead brought an expensive bottled water already opened. I knew it wasn’t what I had asked for and that he was taking advantage of my limited French, but I didn’t complain, I just fumed quietly for a moment. But it wasn’t worth spoiling dinner over. I might have been more forgiving if the food had been any good, but it was cold and bland. But the surroundings were wonderful and we both enjoyed the experience.
The next day we took the train to Arles, about a half an hour away by train. We had watched “Lust of Life”, the Kirk Douglas film about Van Gogh, in preparation, and were very excited. I have to say, the village lived up to our expectations. It was full of narrow, winding streets and every few blocks you chance upon (or follow the map to) another easel where you can compare a Van Gogh landscape with the current incarnation of its source. We followed the theme trail all over town, visiting the yellow house (which was destroyed by bombs in the war), the riverside where Starry Night was painted, the Roman arena and the Café de la Nuit. We bought lots of souvenirs for our families and ate (too much) lunch. In the afternoon, I had some of my favourite moments in France, the kind where it’s almost impossible to explain why they are so great. We walked to the Alyschamps, an ancient cemetery. On the way we walked through public gardens and shady paths and watched some men playing a game of boules. In the cemetery, there was on one else around and it was so quiet. The light streaming through the trees made me suddenly and completely understand what Van Gogh meant when he talked about the light in Provence being different than anywhere else. I told my husband that if there is reincarnation, I want to come back as a cat living in that cemetery, lying in the sun all day.
We caught the early train back to Avignon, not because we were tired of Arles, but because we were so excited by Van Gogh’s art, we wanted to go see his painting at La Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud museum in Avignon before it closed. Arles may have the sites, but the one thing the town doesn’t have is an original Van Gogh. The collection is quite spectacular. It’s hard to believe that one collector could have works by so many stars of the art world.
When last I wrote, we were leaving Paris for the south of France. Our train left early in the morning and took three hours to arrive in Avignon. One nice feature about this train is that you get to choose which section you want to sit in, the Zen area for people who want to travel in quiet to sleep or relax, or the section designed for socializing. We choose the Zen section. Unfortunately, the women seated across from us did not understand the concept. We were amused, though, because they made the assumption that we didn’t speak English and proceeded to talk about us. After a few minutes, I asked my husband, in English, if he wanted to go get something to eat and we enjoyed their efforts to hide their surprised expressions as we headed for the dining car. After a yummy standing breakfast and a short ride, we arrived in the sunny city of Avignon. I was worried about how we’d get from the TGV station to the old town since it looked far on the map, and it was, but the city bus ran frequently and couldn’t be easier to figure out.
A few observations on Avignon: It is much bigger than I expected. It’s really a city, not a village. With our limited time, we only explored the old town.
The old town still has a bad neighbourhood, where people looked at us strangely as we were walking down the street. It was afternoon, so I didn’t feel unsafe, but I wouldn’t want to walk there alone at night.
There were a LOT of dogs. It sometimes felt like every second person in the street has one. But they were all very well behaved and never jumped up or even barked.
Our hotel was the Hotel Danieli on the Rue de la Republique. It was a nice room with big windows that opened and a view of the courtyard, decorated with Provencal fabrics. The only strange thing for me was the shower, which was hand-held and had no curtain.
We started out by exploring the area around the Palace of the Popes. The square in front was lively, with lots of street performers, musicians, and artists selling their wares. Behind the palace is a garden. This is the perfect spot to start a visit to Avignon. The views of the town, the palace and the Rhone river are wonderful.
Next we went to the Pont D’Avignon/ Pont St. Benezet Bridge. To get to the bridge, the clever entrepreneurs of the village have created a winding labyrinth past and through a series of souvenir shops, all of which are selling annoying Cigalle souvenirs, giant bugs which, I am happy to say, I never saw once during my visits. Maybe they’re a problem at another time of the year. I’m glad I missed that.
The audio tour is free with admission and it’s worth it (even though we look like we’re talking on eighties cell phones in every picture) just to listen to the song about the bridge while you’re standing on it. It will be stuck in your head for the rest of the day.
We went for lunch at a restaurant I had read about online, the Pause Gourmand. It’s a little off the beaten path, and we got there just before they closed. Lucky us! It was a delicious meal, with onion pizza for an appetizer and vegetable tart for the main, plus lemon tart for dessert.
After lunch, with no planned itinerary, we wandered the streets, browsing in shops and looking for a place to have dinner.
We finally settled on a restaurant in the square in front of the Palace of the Popes. It was here that we encountered our first difficult waiter. I asked for tap water, and he instead brought an expensive bottled water already opened. I knew it wasn’t what I had asked for and that he was taking advantage of my limited French, but I didn’t complain, I just fumed quietly for a moment. But it wasn’t worth spoiling dinner over. I might have been more forgiving if the food had been any good, but it was cold and bland. But the surroundings were wonderful and we both enjoyed the experience.
The next day we took the train to Arles, about a half an hour away by train. We had watched “Lust of Life”, the Kirk Douglas film about Van Gogh, in preparation, and were very excited. I have to say, the village lived up to our expectations. It was full of narrow, winding streets and every few blocks you chance upon (or follow the map to) another easel where you can compare a Van Gogh landscape with the current incarnation of its source. We followed the theme trail all over town, visiting the yellow house (which was destroyed by bombs in the war), the riverside where Starry Night was painted, the Roman arena and the Café de la Nuit. We bought lots of souvenirs for our families and ate (too much) lunch. In the afternoon, I had some of my favourite moments in France, the kind where it’s almost impossible to explain why they are so great. We walked to the Alyschamps, an ancient cemetery. On the way we walked through public gardens and shady paths and watched some men playing a game of boules. In the cemetery, there was on one else around and it was so quiet. The light streaming through the trees made me suddenly and completely understand what Van Gogh meant when he talked about the light in Provence being different than anywhere else. I told my husband that if there is reincarnation, I want to come back as a cat living in that cemetery, lying in the sun all day.
We caught the early train back to Avignon, not because we were tired of Arles, but because we were so excited by Van Gogh’s art, we wanted to go see his painting at La Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud museum in Avignon before it closed. Arles may have the sites, but the one thing the town doesn’t have is an original Van Gogh. The collection is quite spectacular. It’s hard to believe that one collector could have works by so many stars of the art world.
Jul 27th, 2006, 11:04 AM
#17
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I think I've got this figured out. To access my pictures, you can click here: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...i4&notag=1
Or maybe paste it into your browser?
Let me know if it doesn't work.
Have a good day!
Or maybe paste it into your browser?
Let me know if it doesn't work.
Have a good day!
Jul 27th, 2006, 11:07 AM
#18
Join Date: Jan 2003
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hsbhandbags....
Great report! We were at the same parade but near the Arch. It was pretty slow starting, we left after the president arrived. After lunch we found we were in the staging area for the units and so saw the parade anyway. You may like my pics, the parade are toward the top.
Paris
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/297194/index.html
Looking forward to more reading!
Great report! We were at the same parade but near the Arch. It was pretty slow starting, we left after the president arrived. After lunch we found we were in the staging area for the units and so saw the parade anyway. You may like my pics, the parade are toward the top.
Paris
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/297194/index.html
Looking forward to more reading!
Jul 28th, 2006, 05:25 AM
#20
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Still to come: Aix en Provence, Nice and Monaco.
Danna, thanks for posting that link. It's funny that sometimes we took the same pictures from the same angles, and not just of the major sites!
Danna, thanks for posting that link. It's funny that sometimes we took the same pictures from the same angles, and not just of the major sites!
