Trip Report - Paris (March 8-14)
 

Paris Trip Report March 8-14, 2005

Background

My Traveling Companion (TC) and I started dreaming about our second trip together to Paris approximately 10 minutes after arriving home from last year’s trip! In 2004, we spent five glorious days in our favorite city…but this was before I discovered Fodor’s Travel Talk! We booked our flight last September from XNA (Northwest Arkansas) to CDG via KLM (courtesy of Orbitz.com) for the low, low price of $436 per ticket. Connecting flights through Memphis and Amsterdam.

Accommodations

Last year’s stay at the Hotel de Saint Germain was fine…adequate. Apartment rental had never occurred to me before discovering Fodor’s, but I was immediately keen to the idea and spent no less than four months doing EXTENSIVE research to discover just the right place for us to rest our weary heads at night. And did I luck out on a gem! Maraisflat.com. We booked their studio apartment based on the location, price, and spacious bathroom. I particularly liked that there was no ghastly deposit…simply wired half the rent to their U.S. bank account at booking, and paid the remainder on arrival. The owner (Paul) and I exchanged numerous chatty emails in the three months between making the reservation and our arrival. I felt very confident about the choice before we set out on our adventure

Euros

I’d read so many conflicting reports about the “best” way to exchange dollars for euros that my head was spinning. I prefer to travel with cash…it forces me to stay within my budget. I did, of course, plan on taking a credit card in the event of an emergency (you know, some ridiculously expensive scarf that I couldn’t live without!). I opened a checking account at the Bank of America one week prior to my trip and ordered euros which were sent to my branch bank in three days. Easy as pie! Just so y’all know, my TC did not prepare in this way (tsk, tsk) and spent time exchanging money in several different ways (airports, “change” offices in Paris, American Express) and never got nearly as favorable rate as I did through the Bank of America.

Advance Apologies

I am a girl. I have no sense of direction. I have a terrible memory about what I ate. I have an even worse memory of how much I spent on various things. So I am asking your forgiveness in advance for the lack of some details in this trip report. Our primary goal for this Paris trip was to eat, drink, and be merry. We had a few places we specifically wanted to hit, but mostly we were there as flaneurs…the wind would direct us. Oh, except for restaurants! I got totally and completely hooked on restaurant reviews from here on Fodor’s as well as chowhound.com and several foodie blogs. So I was prepared with a list of restaurants and maps to guide us in our search for meals. No reservations were made in advance though. I am pleased to say that we actually did make it to two of the restaurants on my list…and lucked out on the rest.

Day One

We arrived in Paris at 3:00 p.m. (after leaving home at 5:00 p.m. the day before). Uneventful and pleasant flights to Memphis, Amsterdam, and Paris. No problem retrieving our luggage and we proceeded to the taxi stand to hail a cab for the apartment. I’d arranged with my cellular provider (Cingular) for international calling prior to our departure. I knew the calls home would be expensive, but I figured worth the convenience. Cingular provided me with a brochure detailing how to use my shiny new quad band phone from France. Can you all howl with me? HA HA HA HA HA!!! Phone did not work. Was completely charged and turned off before we left home. Got to Paris, turned on the phone, and it stayed charged just long enough to make five or six pitiful attempts to reach my landlord so he could meet us at the apartment with the key. The taxi driver could feel my pain and offered his cell phone. All was saved. Paul was waiting at the apartment entrance and showed us around. DARLING! PERFECT! We were in the Montorgueil area (pedestrian only) in the 2nd arr. Very near Sentier and Etienne Marcel metro stops. If you are not familiar with the area, it is certainly worth checking out…scads of markets…fruit, cheese, wine, flowers, butcher, fish dudes, horse butcher (eek), pastries, chocolates…you get the picture. And no cars!

We were just thrilled to pieces as we immediately set out to discover our very own little slice of Paris. I believe we bought some wine, cheese and bread. Then stopped at a U Marche for some cokes, diet cokes, and orange juice. The juice was Tropicana brand and was a combo orange/raspberry...yum! Coming from a small town in Arkansas, this was a delight. Not to mention the fact that I am also just very easily amused! Also found a tabac in which I bought an international calling card for that all important phone call home to let everyone know we were safe and sound.

We then took a much needed shower in the gargantuan-by-Paris-standards bathroom and headed out walking again to see what we might like for dinner. I don’t know what possessed us (or what time it was for that matter), but we ended up at Au Pied du Cochon. (6, rue Coquillieres 1st arr. www.pieddecochon.com) Yep, it was all pig—all the time! I now know that it’s a pretty famous brasserie open 24 hours a day and does serve mega doses of pork. I believe we each had a celebratory glass of champagne…then onion soup, escargot, and steaks. Neither of us was in a piggy mood. Dessert was the obligatory first night in Paris crème brulee. We had a nice bottle of wine (Bordeaux) with dinner and coffee afterwards. I think we then had some more wine after returning to the apartment…which led us to sleep until noon (gasp!) and

Day Two

Last night’s debauchery and subsequent oversleeping led us immediately to what would become our neighborhood “hangout”. The Café du Ville is a friendly, family owned joint where we enjoyed coffee and croissants every morning and a couple of beers every afternoon. We set out on foot (remember the national transportation strike last week?) to rediscover Paris and have a little fun. Our meandering led us eventually to the Musee D’Orsay. Neither TC or I had been there before. Well, it was just wonderful and I’m so glad to have experienced so many Van Gogh’s up close and personal! Not to mention to sculptures, Manets and Monets. Sensory overload!

We wandered some more and found ourselves paying homage to the designer shops in the St. Germain area. Homage only, no buying. Hunger and thirst led us to the Café de Flore for a quick, tres cher beverage and sandwich. Had a delightful and lively conversation next to us with a young man from New York City in Paris on a designer buying trip.

We’d seriously toyed with the idea of metro-ing down to the Rungis area (near Orly) for a Sanseverino concert that evening, but the transportation strike kept us on foot. So later that evening we set out again in search of a lovely dinner. Time was not on our side, however, and we were turned down at the door by more than a handful of establishments for not having a reservation. Frustrated, we ended up on our apartment street at the nearly empty Pig’z (5, rue Marie Stuart 2nd arr. www.pigz.fr). We were not very enthusiastic about what was looking like a last resort meal choice, but what a mistake that turned out to be! I remember having my first kir (thanks Fodorites for suggesting this concoction)! TC and I both had foie gras, he had the duck and I the lamb, there was cheese and dessert, too. Wine, Calvados and coffee for sipping. Excellent meal and I would highly recommend this little gem of a restaurant.

Day Three

Shopping…yeee haw!!! With the strike over, we scurried to the metro and bought a carnet of tickets to begin our underground journeys. I love the metro…everything about it. Even the smells and crazy people. There’s something magical about being whisked around underneath a large city for very little money and an abundance of non-stop entertainment. Again, I am easily amused.

First stop was the Galeries Lafayette (40, Boulevard Haussmann 9th arr. www.galerieslafayette.com). I was very interested in purchasing a pair of swanky black boots, but found myself out of luck with it being the end of the season and all. There were some large sizes available, but nothing for my diminutive feet. So I comforted myself in the lingerie department spending an obscene amount of dinero on little wisps of nothing (see www.princessetam-tam.com). I managed to beat myself off the unbelievably fabulous handbag selection and we made our way down the block to Printemps (64, Boulevard Haussman 9th arr. www.printemps.com). Dropped a load on funky shirts for my teenagers and several lovely scarfs. And where, pray tell, was TC during this whole grueling experience? Right by my side…dutifully holding bags and restraining me when necessary! Not to be missed is a jaunt up to the roof of Printemps for a view of nearly all of Paris. We then hopped back over to Galeries Lafayette to the, ahem, “food” section where I stocked up on coffees and chocolates to take home. The Galeries Lafayette food stuffs are very similar to my experience last year at Le Bon Marche. Maybe not quite as elegant, but for packaged chocolate bars it was perfect for me.

Dinner that night was another unexpected surprise. My list of restaurants was going unnoticed and it was time to make a move. What’s the point of spending months reading and making notes if you’re not gonna eat where you wanted to eat, right? So TC and I hopped the metro on over to the 17th to L’Entredgeu which, naturally, turned us down due to lack of a reservation. The turndown was so gracious though that I requested a table for the next night and it was granted. Whew! So off we went back to our area…hungry. We lucked upon Le Grapillon (83, rue Tiquetonne 2nd arr.) I honestly don’t remember what we ate or drank, but it was truly the most lovely and memorable meal of our time in Paris. I’m sitting here now, trying to visualize the evening and our plates, but nothing’s coming to me except the general feeling of the place. We were seated next to a couple with whom we struck up a conversation based on their delicious looking meals. I’m sure I made some “mmm mmmm” sound and was letting just a little drool slide out of my lips when the pair started visiting with us. They were the most charming French couple who had spent several years recently living in San Francisco. TC and I had been enjoying various Bordeaux wines on this trip…partly because they’re delicious, and partly because we’re a bit naïve about wine. Well, this gentleman does label designing for a number of wineries and gave us quite the education that evening on Margaux and Burgundies. Woohoo…more fabulous wines to try! Oh! Now I remember…I had fish, covered in olive tapenade, served over a bed of teeny tiny diced vegetables. And for dessert the most delicious chocolate fondant with crème de menthe and raspberry sauce. The night never really ended as we ended up at a funky, very young nightclub drinking champagne and chatting with each other about every single moment we’d had thus far.

Day Four

We most definitely had a plan of action for day four. The flea market at Porte de Clingnancourt (www.parispuces.com). We were in search of lead flatware moulds that we’d see last year but had not purchased because of their weight. TC and I had each traveled with two suitcases so we’d have enough weight allowance to bring these moulds home with us. They weigh anywhere from 13 lbs. on up. Some cannot even be lifted! TC’s claim to fame (and a reason I love him so) is his sense of direction and excellent navigation skills. He was confident that we’d be able to find the mould stall again this year with no effort at all. Several hours later of walking in what seemed like circles, I was ready to give in and give up. The moulds I’d been dreaming of for the last year were just not meant to be mine. Turning a corner in the markets we spied Chez Louisette (136, Avenue Michelet). A place that’s hard to describe…let’s just say it was a scream. Very tacky, very loud, garish décor, and lounge singers with an accordion in the middle of the afternoon. Needless to say, the rube in me loved every minute of it and only wished I knew the words to the sing-alongs! I cannot vouch for the food as we only shared a cheese plate, but if you’re in the neighborhood it’s worth sticking your head in. Re-hydrated and fortified, TC found a burst of energy and confidence and led us almost directly to my beloved spoon and fork molds. You’ve never seen a southern girl so happy! We purchased two spoon moulds and two fork moulds and immediately started back “home” with our very cumbersome and heavy treasures.

(We also knew that tomorrow (Sunday) would be a difficult time to find a restaurant for our dinner…so we used our noggins and made a reservation on Sat. afternoon.)

That Saturday evening led us back to L’Entredgeu (83, rue Langier, 17th arr.) for our RESERVED seating at 8:00 p.m. L’Entredgeu has been written up in many sources as being an excellent place to dine. We thought it was lovely, but not as remarkable as what I’d been led to believe. I’m drawing a blank as to what we specifically ate. I think TC had veal. And I had Absinthe before dinner which was kind of neat-o, but tasted just the same as the cassis I’d had the night before.

DAY FIVE

I’d had it in my mind to do a final little bit of shopping on our last day in Paris. TC and I took the metro over to Le Bon Marche (closed) and then thought maybe we could find a Monoprix for a least some soaps and bath products (also closed) and then thought at least a wine shop (Nicholas, also closed) for some nice Margaux and Burgundies to take home. Alas! We wandered over to Notre Dame and took in her splendor for a bit and then back to our neighborhood to peek into St. Eustache (it was Sunday and all!). Bewildered, we ate sandwiches at a touristy place called Café Massena. I can’t seem to find a reference to it on the internet, but I know we were there because we’ve got a photo of the place. Hmm?

Not to be discouraged with the lack of shopping, we took the metro out to Pere LaChaise (www.pere-lachaise.com) where we spent a couple of hours wandering among the dead. We didn’t consult a map as to the resting places of the famous, preferring to stroll around and admire the family crypts. A bright moment in the somberness of the cemetery was an insane man serenading passersby from a fifth story apartment window on the periphery of the grounds.

We’d had enough of chuches and the cemetery on this cold Sunday in Lent, so we went back to our little pied-a-terre and packed our bags in preparation for an early Monday morning departure for the airport. We called out landlord, Paul, and he arranged for a taxi to pick us up bright and early the next morning.

Back to the metro to purchase our final four tickets to get us to and from our final destination…dinner at Le Reminet (3 rue des Grands Degres 5th arr.). Another restaurant highly recommended on numerous websites and valued for being open for Sunday dinner. Reservations were at 8:00. We started our meal with a refreshing gin & tonic. I opted for the 50 euro chef’s selection menu. I received small portions of three courses. Delicious warm oysters, foie gras, curried chicken, and scallops. We also had cheese and I enjoyed a selection of many desserts. We enjoyed a nice bottle of wine and a 1959 Armangnac (I only know about the Armagnac because the label is still in my purse!). Dinner for the two of us was just wonderful. I did notice a large number of English speaking patrons in the place, and a fair amount of walk-ins were turned away. We sat next to a banker and attorney couple from New York who couldn’t have been more fun to visit and exchange stories with.

After dinner we just didn’t want the night to end, so we made our way (thanks again to TC’s excellent late-night navigational skills) to Le Caveau de la Huchette (5, rue de la Huchette 5th arr.). What a place! There was a jazz band and we danced our little tootsies off until the wee, wee hours. The metro was all closed up, so we walked quite a ways home to rue Marie Stuart…stopping to admire the bridge lights over the Seine one last time as we said our goodbyes to Paris.

With our hearts a little heavy, we had one last cup of coffee at Café du Ville before hopping into the taxi for CDG. At the airport we were able to stock up on French magazines, wine, more candy, and some stinky cheese to bring home. Flights again were unremarkable and pleasant.

A MOMENT OF REFLECTION

We talked on the way home about maybe skipping Paris next year and going somewhere new. Paris for us the last two years was so perfect that maybe we need a little break from her so she will always remain special. We spoke animatedly about places we’d been and would like to share with each other (Barcelona or Greece) and places we’d like to discover for the first time together (maybe Florence or Lisbon). But how can we? How can we betray Paris who has been so welcoming and good to us? I’ve been home three days and all I can think about is how to plan my next trip to Paris! Am I crazy, or just crazy in love?

Well, with or without detail, this was a delight to read. Your enthusiasm just spills over. I am headed back the end of April for my fifth yearly visit - it is hard to get excited about going anywhere else! Besides the more you know Paris, the better it gets! And then I read about it constantly until the next trip.

Miss Daisy - thank you for sharing your wonderful report with us.

The end of April I will be going back to Paris for the 3rd time. First time being in Sept. 2001. Last year I went to both London and Paris. Even though I liked London, it didn't consume me the way Paris has. There's so much to love about it. Yes, you are crazy in love with Paris.

MissDaisy - It sounds like your TC is very lucky to have you. I bet you can make anywhere as fun as Paris! Happy Travels and thanks for sharing your terrific report!

Miss Daisy,

What a wonderful report! I enjoyed it so much!

Sally

Yes, darlin, it is crazy in love!
We were there at the same time! We went to the D'Orsay the day after you did :)

I very much enjoyed this report, I understand exactly how you feel and I encourage you to keep going back year after year until you get it out of your system ( which most likely will not be very soon )
Welcome back!

Miss Daisy, your report was indeed a delight to read. I agree about apartments--it's great to discover your own hang-outs in your own neighborhood. You make me want to go over there to see yours, but I'm going to have to find my own in May.

Palette and Madison, I arrive May 1st. Any chance for a GTG?

Hi Miss Daisy!

What a great report. I have been living in your neighborhood for the past 3 years and now am part time living in Los Angeles but going back to Paris in a month. I must say your neighborhood report made me homesick early this time. I am so glad you explored rue Tiquetonne. There are some really good restaurants there. My favorite one is a tiny Thai restaurant called Viet Siam. Also on that street is another Thai restaurant that has what in Paris are called "boy girl" (transvestite)servers, most of whom eat down the street at Viet Siam since it has better food :)

I am so glad you love Paris and loved the neighborhood. It is a little less discovered than rue cler, and very rewarding to get to know better.

Enjoyed your wonderful, enthusiastic report - thanks! I've been to France several times in the past two years, but have skipped Paris on those trips.
I'm ready to go back for a "just Paris" trip again - such a wonderful place. I always stay on the Left Bank, but maybe I'll try your neighborhood next time!

Thanks for such an enjoyable report! I loved the details on shopping and meals, too.

What do you do with the flatware moulds? Do you hang them on a wall? They sound very interesting.

Don't tell me you drank the entire bottle of armagnac!!! I like it, but I can't drink more than a small glass.

Thanks, miss daisy, for your terrific report. I felt like I was the one walking through the streets. You have a good knack for writing.

If you do get to Florence or Barcelona, I'll look forward to reading those reports as well!