Trip Report: Paris, London June 2008
Jun 29th, 2008, 08:28 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trip Report: Paris, London June 2008
Getting there Out of Newark on Continental, in the BusinessFirst section of a 777 – what’s not to love? Good tailwind propelled a slightly early arrival at CDG. No line at passport control, only a few minutes wait for checked bags to arrive – all the omens are good so far. Three of us each have a large bag plus a carry on, two have one additional small carry on bag. The French minivan taxi feels a bit cramped after luxuriating in those BizFirst seats but is certainly adequate and better than wrangling bags on the train. On the way into town we note that traffic in the opposite direction is at a virtual standstill for miles; turns out it is due to a major protest against rising gasoline prices (slightly more than US$ 10/gallon from what we see posted around town) staged by truck drivers. Thankfully traffic in our direction is quite fluid, and we arrive at our apartment near the pont d’Austerlitz in about 35 minutes.
Accommodation Our apartment on a cul-de-sac named Square Georges Lesage, off Avenue Ledru-Rollin is around the corner from the last place we rented on Boulevard de la Bastille. It’s a great location, about equidistant from Bastille and gare de Lyon, and steps away from Metro station Quai de la Rapée. (line 5). http://tinyurl.com/6ef8o5 looks exactly like the photos on the website. Aside from a dryer that kept beeping a prompt to clean the filter everything worked well. Double sinks in the nicely appointed bathroom with typical French tub/shower (= no shower curtain) that featured a commode but no bidet; an additional WC located down the hallway. Vintage elevator, a bit small as is typical for retrofitted installations but large enough for three people without luggage. Owner was out of town attending a wedding so her mother came to meet us and let us in so we would not have to wait. The lovely owner arrived shortly afterward, provided a nice orientation that included recommendations in the neighborhood.
Prices Yes, things have become more expensive, and it is not just the lousy exchange rate. Food prices seem to have increased in both restaurants and grocery stores – not exorbitant but noticeably higher than two years ago. Very few of the under €20 tourist menus were in evidence, even in the “bacteria alley” section of the Latin Quarter. A plain coffee ranged from €2.50 to €4, café crème about €4 and up. Lowest price for a small bottle of water was in the vending machine in the Metro (€1.60) and on the street they went for €2-4. Crepes and take away sandwiches remain a bargain. Quality of food remains high, certainly better than typical US fast food (OK, not a very high bar.)
Getting Around Since our arrival is on a Monday we go for Carte Orange weekly pass for me and my niece; SO will be doing less hopping around the city as he is working on a project that requires staying at the apartment so he opts for a carnet. We make great use of the CO, hopping on and off buses as well as using Metro for longer hauls.
Food and drink As mentioned, prices have increased. My niece is not exactly an adventurous eater, and SO needs to spend a lot of time working on his project, so we decide to se the well equipped kitchen to have several dinners at home. We hop on Metro 5 to Place d’Italie and roam through the Champions grocery store there, stocking up on staples. Pasta is a crowd pleaser, and we find a jar of pesto sauce that turns out to be quite good. The aroma of poulet rôti is irresistible, even in a grocery store. Another good omen: they have a large Paris Brest pastry on sale. We purchased the reusable grocery sacks and each of us totes one back on the Metro. There is an epicerie at the end of the street for milk and fruits, and a boulangerie a block away to supply the daily necessities (like fresh pain au chocolate for breakfast or a baguette for dinner) and a medium size Monoprix a few blocks away. We had breakfast at the apartment each day, lunch mostly on the street (crepes, take away sandwiches) or in a nearby café. Dinner at home was easy with the poulet rôti and some pasta, and one evening we had some ready-to-bake pizzas we picked up at a Monoproix. On the weekend there was a street market along Ledru- Rollin where I picked up more poulet rôti (and the luscious potatoes) as well as some fresh fruit and a lovely bouquet of exquisitely fragrant stargazer lilies for the house. We did have some dinners out – L’As du Fallafel (don’t miss the lemonade) and Leon de Bruxelles for moules frites. And, of course, we made the obligatory visit to Angelina’s for the legendary hot chocolate. This is much more at-home eating than I have done in the past and I must admit that, aside from the obvious economies, it was quite pleasant sitting down at home to review the day and plan the next. This visit made it official – Berthillon has been replaced by Amorino http://www.amorino.fr as our favorite place for ice cream. OK, it’s actually gelato rather than ice cream, but one taste and you are hooked. The Ecuadorian chocolate flavor nearly transforms the taste buds into a sexual organ.
Playing tourist There is plenty previously posted info the various tourist sites so I will forego individual descriptions. While I have visited Paris often enough to have seen just about al the tourist sites, this was my niece’s first time so we dutifully made the rounds, incorporating lots of just strolling around as well – Eiffel tower, Trocadero, Arc de Triomphe, Grand Arch de la Defense, Montmartre/Sacre Couer, NDdeP, the two Iles, Louvre, Tuileries, L’Orangerie, Champs Elysees, St Germain de Pres, BHV, Latin Quarter, les grands magasins, Opera Garnier, Marais, Conciergerie (but not St Chapelle – line was too long, minimum one hour wait even with advance tickets.) A new place we visited was the Museum of the History of Immigration at Porte Doree, which opened amid some controversy last October. http://tinyurl.com/4lmwmn Located in the same building is an aquarium that was quite enjoyable. Versailles was a great Sunday trip, used the forfait loisir http://tinyurl.com/y84c3o but still had to wait a bit in line for entry. Seems word has spread about this deal and there are lots of folks who had them – still better than waiting in the ticket line at the chateau. It includes round trip RER tickets, admissions and headset rental for the nicely done audioguide. The grand spectacle of classical music and fountain displays may be a bit underwhelming for those accustomed to Hollywood special effects, but we enjoyed it. We bought tickets for the tram that makes a circuit around the park, but also saw some folks in golf cart type vehicles – have to check that out for next time, as it would eliminate waiting at the designated stops for a tram with open seats.
Special treat We were in town on the first day of summer for the <<nuit blanche>> fete de la musique http://fetedelamusique.culture.fr. Throughout the city, music of every sort form classical to ethnic to rock to headbanger was everywhere, most of it free and open to the public. At Place de la Bastille there was a large stage with live and DJ music and a huge crowd. We took in a classical concert in the 5th then wandered around the Latin Quarter packed as I had never before witnessed. Exiting the metro at Bastille on the way back was incredible – pressing crowds reminiscent of scenes of soccer games. The huge crowds were quite well behaved, and by Sunday afternoon the enormous amount of litter had been cleared away.
Last minute London add-on At my niece’s request we tacked on a brief London visit. Eurostar from gare du Nord was a nightmare at boarding – both elevators were out of service and the escalator succumbed to the increased demand, so throngs were schlepping bags up to steps. We barely made it to the train. After that, all went smoothly. Cab from St. Pancras to hotel in the City (Crowne Plaza London The City – very nice, conveniently located at Blackfriar’s), where we purchased Big Bus hop on/hop off pass from the excellent concierge. With only two days we did not have time for much wandering, but did get to the Tate Modern (fabulous), St Paul’s cathedral (including the climb to the dome for the 360 view of London), Tower of London, London Eye (very cool), Westminster, Kensington, Piccadilly and Leicester Squares, the Florence Nightingale Museum located on the grounds of St. Thomas hospital near Victoria station and the Westminster bridge, and, of course, Harrod’s where my niece picked up a pair of Chanel sunglasses as a trip memento. The bus pass included a Thames cruise which was an enjoyable way to get from the Tower to Westminster. Had lovely meals at The Mermaid’s Tail in Leicester Square (excellent fish and chips) and a place near Covent Garden called Fire Stone serving upscale pizzas with an array of delicious toppings. If Paris seemed more expensive, London was even more so – a single ride on the Tube costs US$8. We noted that there are Starbuck’s everywhere (not necessarily a bad thing when you want it!) Transport to Heathrow via www.justairports.com using a minivan was ₤44; driver was prompt and courteous, the trip took about 45 minutes at 7:30 AM. Warnings about stringent security at LHR were exaggerated – laptops stayed in their bags and no need to remove shoes, each traveler allowed one carry on and one additional personal item. Line moved fairly quickly. Usual 3-1-1 restriction on liquids in carry on.
Now I’ll stop so I can get to the San Antonio/Austin GTG!
Accommodation Our apartment on a cul-de-sac named Square Georges Lesage, off Avenue Ledru-Rollin is around the corner from the last place we rented on Boulevard de la Bastille. It’s a great location, about equidistant from Bastille and gare de Lyon, and steps away from Metro station Quai de la Rapée. (line 5). http://tinyurl.com/6ef8o5 looks exactly like the photos on the website. Aside from a dryer that kept beeping a prompt to clean the filter everything worked well. Double sinks in the nicely appointed bathroom with typical French tub/shower (= no shower curtain) that featured a commode but no bidet; an additional WC located down the hallway. Vintage elevator, a bit small as is typical for retrofitted installations but large enough for three people without luggage. Owner was out of town attending a wedding so her mother came to meet us and let us in so we would not have to wait. The lovely owner arrived shortly afterward, provided a nice orientation that included recommendations in the neighborhood.
Prices Yes, things have become more expensive, and it is not just the lousy exchange rate. Food prices seem to have increased in both restaurants and grocery stores – not exorbitant but noticeably higher than two years ago. Very few of the under €20 tourist menus were in evidence, even in the “bacteria alley” section of the Latin Quarter. A plain coffee ranged from €2.50 to €4, café crème about €4 and up. Lowest price for a small bottle of water was in the vending machine in the Metro (€1.60) and on the street they went for €2-4. Crepes and take away sandwiches remain a bargain. Quality of food remains high, certainly better than typical US fast food (OK, not a very high bar.)
Getting Around Since our arrival is on a Monday we go for Carte Orange weekly pass for me and my niece; SO will be doing less hopping around the city as he is working on a project that requires staying at the apartment so he opts for a carnet. We make great use of the CO, hopping on and off buses as well as using Metro for longer hauls.
Food and drink As mentioned, prices have increased. My niece is not exactly an adventurous eater, and SO needs to spend a lot of time working on his project, so we decide to se the well equipped kitchen to have several dinners at home. We hop on Metro 5 to Place d’Italie and roam through the Champions grocery store there, stocking up on staples. Pasta is a crowd pleaser, and we find a jar of pesto sauce that turns out to be quite good. The aroma of poulet rôti is irresistible, even in a grocery store. Another good omen: they have a large Paris Brest pastry on sale. We purchased the reusable grocery sacks and each of us totes one back on the Metro. There is an epicerie at the end of the street for milk and fruits, and a boulangerie a block away to supply the daily necessities (like fresh pain au chocolate for breakfast or a baguette for dinner) and a medium size Monoprix a few blocks away. We had breakfast at the apartment each day, lunch mostly on the street (crepes, take away sandwiches) or in a nearby café. Dinner at home was easy with the poulet rôti and some pasta, and one evening we had some ready-to-bake pizzas we picked up at a Monoproix. On the weekend there was a street market along Ledru- Rollin where I picked up more poulet rôti (and the luscious potatoes) as well as some fresh fruit and a lovely bouquet of exquisitely fragrant stargazer lilies for the house. We did have some dinners out – L’As du Fallafel (don’t miss the lemonade) and Leon de Bruxelles for moules frites. And, of course, we made the obligatory visit to Angelina’s for the legendary hot chocolate. This is much more at-home eating than I have done in the past and I must admit that, aside from the obvious economies, it was quite pleasant sitting down at home to review the day and plan the next. This visit made it official – Berthillon has been replaced by Amorino http://www.amorino.fr as our favorite place for ice cream. OK, it’s actually gelato rather than ice cream, but one taste and you are hooked. The Ecuadorian chocolate flavor nearly transforms the taste buds into a sexual organ.
Playing tourist There is plenty previously posted info the various tourist sites so I will forego individual descriptions. While I have visited Paris often enough to have seen just about al the tourist sites, this was my niece’s first time so we dutifully made the rounds, incorporating lots of just strolling around as well – Eiffel tower, Trocadero, Arc de Triomphe, Grand Arch de la Defense, Montmartre/Sacre Couer, NDdeP, the two Iles, Louvre, Tuileries, L’Orangerie, Champs Elysees, St Germain de Pres, BHV, Latin Quarter, les grands magasins, Opera Garnier, Marais, Conciergerie (but not St Chapelle – line was too long, minimum one hour wait even with advance tickets.) A new place we visited was the Museum of the History of Immigration at Porte Doree, which opened amid some controversy last October. http://tinyurl.com/4lmwmn Located in the same building is an aquarium that was quite enjoyable. Versailles was a great Sunday trip, used the forfait loisir http://tinyurl.com/y84c3o but still had to wait a bit in line for entry. Seems word has spread about this deal and there are lots of folks who had them – still better than waiting in the ticket line at the chateau. It includes round trip RER tickets, admissions and headset rental for the nicely done audioguide. The grand spectacle of classical music and fountain displays may be a bit underwhelming for those accustomed to Hollywood special effects, but we enjoyed it. We bought tickets for the tram that makes a circuit around the park, but also saw some folks in golf cart type vehicles – have to check that out for next time, as it would eliminate waiting at the designated stops for a tram with open seats.
Special treat We were in town on the first day of summer for the <<nuit blanche>> fete de la musique http://fetedelamusique.culture.fr. Throughout the city, music of every sort form classical to ethnic to rock to headbanger was everywhere, most of it free and open to the public. At Place de la Bastille there was a large stage with live and DJ music and a huge crowd. We took in a classical concert in the 5th then wandered around the Latin Quarter packed as I had never before witnessed. Exiting the metro at Bastille on the way back was incredible – pressing crowds reminiscent of scenes of soccer games. The huge crowds were quite well behaved, and by Sunday afternoon the enormous amount of litter had been cleared away.
Last minute London add-on At my niece’s request we tacked on a brief London visit. Eurostar from gare du Nord was a nightmare at boarding – both elevators were out of service and the escalator succumbed to the increased demand, so throngs were schlepping bags up to steps. We barely made it to the train. After that, all went smoothly. Cab from St. Pancras to hotel in the City (Crowne Plaza London The City – very nice, conveniently located at Blackfriar’s), where we purchased Big Bus hop on/hop off pass from the excellent concierge. With only two days we did not have time for much wandering, but did get to the Tate Modern (fabulous), St Paul’s cathedral (including the climb to the dome for the 360 view of London), Tower of London, London Eye (very cool), Westminster, Kensington, Piccadilly and Leicester Squares, the Florence Nightingale Museum located on the grounds of St. Thomas hospital near Victoria station and the Westminster bridge, and, of course, Harrod’s where my niece picked up a pair of Chanel sunglasses as a trip memento. The bus pass included a Thames cruise which was an enjoyable way to get from the Tower to Westminster. Had lovely meals at The Mermaid’s Tail in Leicester Square (excellent fish and chips) and a place near Covent Garden called Fire Stone serving upscale pizzas with an array of delicious toppings. If Paris seemed more expensive, London was even more so – a single ride on the Tube costs US$8. We noted that there are Starbuck’s everywhere (not necessarily a bad thing when you want it!) Transport to Heathrow via www.justairports.com using a minivan was ₤44; driver was prompt and courteous, the trip took about 45 minutes at 7:30 AM. Warnings about stringent security at LHR were exaggerated – laptops stayed in their bags and no need to remove shoes, each traveler allowed one carry on and one additional personal item. Line moved fairly quickly. Usual 3-1-1 restriction on liquids in carry on.
Now I’ll stop so I can get to the San Antonio/Austin GTG!
Jun 30th, 2008, 08:37 AM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carrybean - the FN museum is a relatively small endeavor but pretty well done. They run a brief (~20 min) video in English that's OK. Probably not all that impressive for those without involvement or interest in nursing but a nice visit for those who are.
Jul 1st, 2008, 02:47 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, dangnabbit - just received an email from the owner of the apartment saying that she and her husband will be moving back into the city and they will no longer be renting to tourists. Oh, well...
