Trip Report: Paris-La Rochelle
 

Monday 2/26/04 - Arrived CDG mid-day via IcelandAir following an uneventful though uncomfortably hot, stuffy flight. Miraculously, luggage was firt on the belt, Parisshuttle was prompt at picking us up and following 2 drop-offs in the 8e and 9e districts we were dropped off at our first hotel in the 6e, Hotel Clement, 6 r. Clement. Never mind being the last drop off as we love seeing the sights of Paris pass by.

Hotel Le Clement is located directly across from Le Marche St. Germain and our triple room (145 euros sans P. dejeuner)had a great view of the market and the church St. Sulpice. Had decided to play "hotel detective" this trip for the continuing search for a St. Germain Hotel we love enough to keep using. Le Regent fits the bill, but in an effort to cut $$$ corners we planned on trying lesser-starred hotels this time. Le Clement** was very satisfactory though "typically French" in the reserved desk reception, smoking allowed in common areas, miniscule elevator etc. Very Clean with adequate space in our double + single bed room with bath. Well secured after dark on this safe but quieter side street just off Blvd St. Germain. As it was snowing and colder, we were glad to find the metro stop Mabillon literally just around the corner. Dropped off luggage, washed up and headed out for late lunch.

Side streets here are not lacking in eateries of all kinds but we were too late for restaurant fare so we went around the corner to Leon de Bruxelles for mussels and a beer. We personally enjoy Leons, and though available, have never needed to go back for the seconds that they promise with their "formule" meals (around 25 euros). They also have one of the best creme brulees I've tasted.

We prefer the mini-nap method of jetlag recuperation (vs stay up-feelingsick-tilbedtime method)so returned immediately after eating for sleep around 16:00. Snow had stopped and the towers of St Sulpice, one shrouded in scaffolding, were bathed in fading light. Up at 20:00 and talking on phone with honemooning son and new bride who are staying at the Palmon Hotel on r. Maubeuge in the 9th since their

(sorry - hit wrong key and it posted instead of edited) As I was explaining, the honeymooners had been literally burned out of their rented loft apartment a week before arrival and had settled on the Hotel Palmon via internet at last minute. First timers to Paris, they relate over the phone the shocking small size of their elevator (he probably weighs just under 300 lbs) but had been forewarned about typically smaller rooms. They decided to venture out on their own via metro and come to our hotel...2-21/2 hours later they finally showed up! They had not taken the metro stop I'd recommended (probably getting off at St. Germain or Odeon) and then relied on asking people on the street for directions. They proceeded to be sent off in various directions crisscrossing back and forth, here and there...of course the fact that neither speak French nor have a sense of direction and that it was night and pouring rain cold could have contributed somwhat. They laugh even more when they see our elevator which apparently is even smaller than their unbelievably small one. Heading out at a less than optimum time for dinner at least 23:30 we gave up on some of the pretty restaurants we had eyed earlier on side streets (Cote Bergamote, LaPetite Cour, Bistrot d'Henri), and headed for busier St. Germain and the very close Restaurant Vagenende. You could tell they were trying to decided whether to turn you away or let you in as the final table--thankfully they waved us on in. We had a delightful, unhurried meal--some chose their fixed menu at 23 euros selecting soupe gratinee a l'oignon "tradition", marmite du pecheur au beurre leger, fumet et crustaces and chocolate mousse. Others chose soupe de poissons de roche "maison" et sa rouille, foie gras de canard "maison", et son verre de Gewurtraminer, followed by Chateaubriant grille bearnaise and pommes dauphines. A second comparison try at Creme brulee, this time "a la vanille bourbon". It was equal to or better than Leons. By now we were the only table left so I dared take a few pictures of the lovely mirrored paneling, period art etc. (Okay, so maybe the lovely wine helped loosen my reserve) Service was attentive without that feeling of trying to hurry you out the door and food was very good in quality and quantity. Hair and clothes now dry, we bundled the newlyweds off into a taxi and walked the 5 minutes to our hotel, and fell into a deep sleep.



Day#2 - Not wanting to pay the 10 euro hotel breakfast, we headed acoss Blvd St. Germain along rue de Seine, passing the lovely stacked fruit and vegetables and already sputtering roasting chickens, to Rue
Buci and Paul's where we could have a simple breakfast for under 3 euros or a larger sampler which inluded fresh squeezed orange juice for a little more. Glad to see our "usual" waitpersons still serving up the same liquid sunshine (grand cafe creme) with saucy attitude...always amusing to watch the comings and goings at Pauls. Reconfirms differences between Fr. and Amer. restaurant industry...in France definitely is more of a true profession with real employee benefits, not just a means to get to college etc. We leave my husband at hotel to rest his foot (toe surgery week before couldn't be put off) while my son and I walk down St. Germain to cross over the Seine River and make our way to Notre Dame Cathedral. Religious music is resounding from speakers set up at the base of the right tower as we enter this marvelous edifice. My usually "whatever" 19 year old is in awe at this his first cathedral. Overwhelmed by the totality--soaring voutes, consuming stained glass rosaces, glowing candles that light the individual chapels surrounding the choeur. He stands lost in the moment looking up, mouth hanging open until his hat is roughly pulled off his head by a security guard, breaking the beauty of the moment . The chastisement for wearing a hat inside and not being respectul is done 'en passant" and he is already on his way before I can recover enough to even consider a retort. Son is now grumbling and insolent as he points out "all these other people" still wearing hats the guard chose to ignore. For a moment I ponder the inequities of sexual mores...why are men supposed to bare their heads yet up until recent years the women had to hide theirs and are not disuaded today from that practice? We have reached the exit and check out the line up the towers...they are amazingly non-existent so without hesitation we head up excited about this new adventure and definitely relieved to let go of the past unpleasantness. He marvels at the worn indentations of each of the +450 steps, takes in the small doors with their old latches as we stop to gain our (my) breath and stay our twirling heads. Again, he is amazed at his first clear view of the Paris skyline. the joy of being right next to gargoyles he'd only seen pictures of and to climb the bell tower and actually touch he bell that resounds across the Seine and this lovely city. Of note: due to the visit of the Chinese president special precautions were being taken--The tour was terminated before you could go higher up. With all the security helicoptors hovering about, I'm not sure they didn't have sharpshooters up at the very top. Though it had been cut short, we were pleased with the experience and headed back through the St. Michel area and its narrow streets to get DH and head up to see the Newlyweds at their hotel and then go to lunch. Weather is tolerable, just drizzling without being nasty cold. We exit at metro stop Cadet and I am pleased to see it a very vibrant , international intersection. We walk up r. Cadet taking the very tight, isolated impasse Briare to get to rue Maubeuge making a mental note this is not an impasse to take after dark. Rue Maubeuge, however, is a wide bustling street with all kinds of shops, poolhalls, bar/cafe. The hotel Palmon seems very appropriate, especially for 77 euros...clean, wide open meeing area, bedrooms which are functional with simple decorations. Management seemed most accomodating to this young, non-traditional couple...I had to admire the reserved response at the front desk when I called to say we were in the waiting room ready for them and here comes my very broad step-son striding across the hallway into the room dressed in an overbig tshirt and baggy excercise shorts everything els is left au naturel right on down to the ugly big feet. While he sits (lolls across the chair with one foot up on a table) to discuss the days plans, I had to hand it to the reception area where heads were lowered with furtive glances stockpiling bit by bit the image of this slovenly American sight . But other than lowered eyes and thinly tightened lips glued together in a straight line and just starting to upcurl in slight amusement/dismay. Otherwise, they hid their true feelings about this outspoken American

To be continued -- have to get a few hours sleep before working a 10 hrd day. Cia!

Thanks klondike. I can't wait until you get to the La Rochelle part. Hopefully your hotel worked out well.

I have to laugh about your son and his hat. Every time I take my Dad into a church I have to remind him to take his off. He's old enough to remember wearing hats for real in the 50's and knows better!

Maybe the security guard thinks there's still hope for a teenager but realizes the older dolts will never get it. :-)

As an aside a woman's hat is considered part of her complete ensemble and is never removed like a necklace. It cracks me up to go to a Nascar event and watch the ladies remove their hats during the national anthem. Even if it's a #24 Nascar special ball cap, ladies don't remove their hats.

For a man a hat is a piece of clothing that is removed at appropriate times like a coat including indoors anywhere (not just a church) and lifting when passing a lady. Of course you don't see any men tipping their hats at ladies these days so maybe they aren't really ladies or gentlemen anymore either.

A couple of years ago at a Brickyard 400 I had a gentlemen next to me remove his hat. He then nudged me and said I needed to remove my hat during the national anthem. I responded that the song playing was "God Bless America," that I would remove my hat during the national anthem and that it really concerned me that he did not know what our national anthem was. After that I didn't have to speak much with him. :-D

We had a quick, early lunch at a bar/brasserie located across from the metro stop Cadet. If I can find the name I will mention it later, as the food and service were quite good. The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring the Trocadero/Eiffel Tower area with the mandatory photo ops for the first time visitors. I was surprised to see they are STILL working on the Trocadero as it was all boarded up two years ago! Most pleased, however to find the fountains spouting this time, which made for a more enjoyable walk down to the E. Tower. Lines didn't appear too long, but no one wanted to wait in line...okay with DH and me, been there, done that. Had a nice leisurely walk up Ave de Suffren enjoying the clearing weather and this neighborhood before taking the metro back to St. Germain for a rest.

Tonight was our only dining reservation: dinner at La Fermette Marbeuf, and we were not disappointed. Even though seated in the Belle Epoque room, which is I believe "smoking", we were not bothered by smoke. Both service and food were very nice and the decor outstanding; we made an evening of it and really enjoyed relaxing in the moment. To walk off dinner, we meandered back to the Champs Elysee. The weather was brisk, but tolerable. My only let-down was that the Arc de Triomphe was not lit up as usual. After some walking, we stopped in at La Duree to pick up some macaroons. We were disappointed to learn that the "take-out" section was closed, but we circumvented the problem by going in for a warming hot chocolate and plate of macarons. The server assured us their hot chocolate was THE best in ALL of Paris, which made me think of all the Angelina's fans on Fodors, and I wondered what they would say...though the chocolate was nice (sickening sweet and thick, like real melted chocolate) I would have the milder tea next time to complement the lovely macaroons. Having totally over-indulged at this point, we could only drag ourselves to the nearest taxi station to head back to our hotel. As usual, enjoyed seeing Paris by night as the cab sped along.

Day 3- Weather was steadily improving, enough that this morning we took a leisure walk in the St. Germain area: A quick duck into the Marche St. Germain stores (I'm not a clothes horse so most were w/o interest) before following r. Mabillon to place St. Sulpice. The fountains were going full blast and the square's trees were decorated with bright red chinese lanterns (to honor the Chinese President's visit to Paris)--quite lovely. Paid a visit to the church, St. Sulpice, which is large and rather bright (as far as churches go). It is known especially for murals in its chapel by Eugene Delacroix. We back tracked along rue des Canettes, crossed over Blvd St. Germain to the Buci Market area for the remainder of the morning. For lunch we returned to r. Princesse to the Bistrot Henri. This is a very small, IMO authentic bistrot serving straightforward traditional French food. My son enjoyed his pork medallions a l'ancienne and DH and I were pleased with our duck breast in honey sauce--3 entrees, 3 plats, 3 desserts and 1/2 bottle of winecame to 86 euros. For those with "tourist aversionitis" we were the only foreigners in the place and there were no English translation/menus to be seen. Service was very welcoming.

Afternoon of day 3 was spent at the Luxembourg gardens because of the sunny weather and was one of the things on our "to-do" list. I was struck by 1) the beauty of the gardens even in wintertime and 2) the cleanliness of the grounds. The locals, in the know, were lined up in chairs along the back of the museum wall where it was sunny and sheltered from the brisk wind. The museum is currently housing a much sought after (Boticelli I believe) art exposition. As the lines were huge, winding around the side of the building, and our time limited we passed this up.

Dinner was at Le Be Bop, r. St. Gregoire de Tours. This was one of our treasured "finds" this trip. It touts itself as a jazz/gourmet experience and we have to agree with them. Small and intimate (maybe 8-10 tables) in an ancient structure with apparent beams in walls and ceilings. Lowlight and fresh flowers on each table make it romantic, yet it is quite casual in nature ie. proprietor dressed in jeans--How DO French women look soooo good in a simple pair of jeans??! Pianist plays (can make requests) until 23:00, and the food was marvelous, best escargot I've had in years. Though they have lesser menus, we chose the 26 euros and found the quality/ presentation equal to or better than our experience for more $$ at La Fermette Marbeuf. A welcome relief for me, the translator for 4 others, was the English sub titles on each menu. Upon exiting, we stopped off at the Creperie across the street (which the Be Bop proprietor swears has the best crepes she's ever eaten, even beating some she's tried in Brittany itself) and have a nice chat with the Creperie owners who are from Brittany and like ourselves, collectors of Quimper faience, while they clean their large biliks which have been turning out crepes all day long. Underway again towards our hotel, my husband decides he's romantically inclined and really doesn't want to share a room for the 3rd night in a row with our son. Son, who is a smoker, would be delighted to have room to himself. So on a spur of the moment we stop in at the hotel on the corner, Le Welcome Hotel, and get a double for the night--**90 euros and say good night. Due to the nature of our visit, let's just say we had a very enjoyable stay, but I certainly would not opt to stay there regularly...there are much better to be had for the same price. Clean, but really barebones, with absolutely no foyer. Right on the corner with Blvd St. Germain, it is convenient and the double windows kept down noise somewhat from the street. It would definitely be miserable in the summertime. From our window you could make out the top third of the Eifeel Tower bathed in red for the week.

Day 4 - Breakfast as usual down the street at Paul's. Return to hotel Le Clement to gather up laundry (we'd been on the move 10 days prior to Paris) and trek around the back side of Marche St. Germain where there is a conveniently located self laundromat. It's been a long time since I've used ANY laundromat in ANY country, so experience was quite comical...wash was well underway before I figured how to get my detergent..no way to get it into machine...but managed to get the softener in before the rinse cycle! "One out of two isn't bad" I keep telling myself as the laundry is drying. Arrive back just in time to check out for our scheduled hotel change. After pondering taxi vs walking, we decide we can manage the few blocks (2 bags each).

Arrive Hotel Saint- Andre-des-Arts, 66 r. St.-Andre-des-Arts), which lets us have our rooms right away--I like them already. A one- starred hotel, this place is as funky as I had imagined. The foyer is charming if a little, okay-alot, on the "tired" side with an old black leather couch on one rock wall and a row of carved church stalls along the other. As I had expressed concern for my husband's preference for a larger room when making the reservation, they were kind enough to give us #2, a quad on the first floor, while only charging us for a double since they weren't full- 82 euros/night breakfast included. Our son is in a single, #21, for 64 euros/bkf included, which oddly enough is reached by exiting the building on the 3rd floor, walking across a balcony-like walkway in the open-air to this isolated room. As I look down at the drop-off, I wonder about those who may have imbibed too much with dinner...do they feel as if walking a tight rope to get to their room? Both rooms look out onto the narrow, cobblestoned street and the famous Cour du Commerce. As I like to people-watch, it is a great room location, albeit noisy at night.

We spend today in this area which is sort of on the cusp of Latin Quarter/St. Germain area. Enjoy the Cour du Commerce, which counts among its many eateries the famous Cafe Procope and which conveniently exits onto Blvd St. Germain just across from the Odeon metro exit. Return back to the blue painted creperie on r. Gregoire de Tours to try the crepes...they are as superb as promised. Son has special of the day: crepe forestiere, while DH has roquefort and hazlenut and I opt for the parisienne with ham/cheese/mushrooms and a bechamel sauce. Dessert crepes follow: beurre et sucre and a grand marnier flambee--all accompanied by the traditional cidre. My husband marvels the whole time as he has a birdseye view of the biligs and the incessant array of steaming crepes as they are created and then ceremoniously desposited "a table". Having lived in Brittany for 3 years, I have to agree, the crepes here are as good as they get . We return to the hotel for a rest and then a quick forray to Gare Montparnasse late afternoon in preparation for our depart to La Rochelle tomorrow. Never having purchased on-line tickets and printed them myself before, I want to make sure everything is in order, which it is. Going to the Gare via metro we can't help but notice the high-speed middle belt (what is it called when it's flat and not really "escalating"?). Some guy on it with a huge suitcase loses his balance just as he passes us and goes literally head over heels. It is going so quickly we are left only to wonder if and how he is able to get up before reaching its end. On the return trip we try it out...interesting. DH does better at debarking from it than I do. Luckily he's behind me and steadies me...interesting gizmo but I'm just not in that big of a hurry to risk pinching my *** in it if I fell. We decide to try a little restaurant on the same street as the others which I had read positive reports on and wanted to try the last 2 visits to Paris--La Citrouille (ThePumpkin). If you're on a budget, then this just might be the place for you. It offers various, inexpesive menus (around 8-15 euros) in a pleasant surrounding. The place was packed, and packed mainly with French. Menu has English subtitles and offers a large choice. I think the trick here is to stick to the good old standbys. My husband and son were happy with their selections: Fish soup and Soup a l'oignon followed by a steak/frites and a duck breast a l'orange. I was a little more disappointed in my vol au vent with fois gras and asparagus, as the fois had the texture of cat food (yuck) and the asparagus was canned. I can't remember what I had for the main dish--again ok but nothing exceptional. The boeuf bourgignon that went by looked fine. Definitely a believer in the philosophy "You get what you pay for"...and I just would have preferred to pay 10 euros more for a great meal instead of an ok meal. We return to our hotel early for the evening as DH and I have both been fighting off sinusitis from the hot, airless flight and all the smoking we've been around. The hotel has agreed to keep our extra luggage for us since we will be returning after our La Rochelle jaunt. They have been most accomodating.

(Sorry, Indytravel, La Rochelle will be for tomorrow!)

Great report - looking forward to the rest!

Thanks for the wonderful trip report.

I look forward to reading about La Rochelle as I've never been there.

I've been there and like, Indy, loved it so looking forward also.

ttt

Klondike, I was excited to see the name of your message and am waiting for your report on La Rochelle (and getting there from Paris). I've been thinking of going there by train through Poitiers. Anyway, I hope you will keep writing your report! Thanks.

Day 5 -- Up and off before breakfast for Gare Montparnasse where we will depart 09:35 for La Rochelle. Having made a trial run yesterday via metro, DH and I decide that with 3 people and baggage and given that rushhour would not quite be over, taxi was the sanest way to go. Well worth the few extra euros...we arrive quickly right at the entrance to les Grandes Lignes. Quai number is not up yet (posted 20 min. prior to depart), so we decide to go sit and have breakfast.

The experience in the bar/cafe is memorable...all tables full, we wait until one empties and must take it before it is cleaned to "secure it". Waiters are swishing back and forth, like a well choreographed dance. Ours clears the table as he takes our order, well before we have really had time to study the carte (like we don't know what's already there, either). DH is a bit out of sorts that I have ordered so quickly. C'est la vie, some things (waiters, in particular) just don't wait. He gets further out of sorts when the waiter returns with croissants--desole, plus de baguettes. Further, I have forgotten that butter and jam would not automatically come with and we don't have time to hail our waiter and wait for DH's beloved accompaniments. Normally a little more tolerant, but not having yet had MY morning cafe, I tell him to just eat his croissant like the French do (nature) and chill and be glad he got his grand cafe creme! The croissant au beurre really are buttery and our mood shifts upward as we watch the comings and goings of travelers trying to manage their luggage and the nonstop ballet of the waiters, profusely sweating now. My son can't help but comment on the irony of our situation...we are seated in the "nonsmoking" section which is about all of 2 table rows deep, wedged between the smoking section (non-partitioned, naturally) on one side and the stand up smoking bar on the other. My son, himself a smoker, quips that he doesn't even have to light up post-meal, all he has to do is breathe deeply. It is a relief to leave the tight, smoky confines of the bar and start for quai 3, just down from the bar.

It's been +20 years since I've rail travelled in France...the system has come a long way! Made the reservations on line, getting a great deal. Only faux-pas, of sorts, was to do a test run making a single reservation (my DH's) and when that worked immediately making a second for son and myself...resulting in two (son & myself) being in a separate car than the other...DH, whose day was already shaky. His eyes got as big as saucers when I informed him we'd fix the problem after we were underway and we saw what seats were available. Depart was punctual and by the time I made my way 2 cars forward to check on hubby he was restful and deeply involved in his dvd movie. Things were looking up.

Arrived 3 hours later at La Rochelle where we were meeting French friends who would be driving up from Bordeaux after work. Marveled at the ease of the trip, reflecting on the all-night train rides of my youth Paris-Brest sitting up in the antiquated (seating 8) uncomfortable 2nd class voitures that are now just nightmares of the past. In retrospect, seeing the modern cafeteria (croque monsieur isn't bad for the price) on the TGV, I would forego the Gare bar breakfast, which is pricey too, and have a more relaxful one once underway. Debarking from the train, we run across the only incident of public urination during the stay. I am past without giving a glace or thought to it, but my son who is a 1st time traveler is absolutely shocked and brings it to my attention. He is apalled that the guy didn't make ANY attempt to shield others from the view. After some reflection, because toilettes were available both on the train and inside the train station so there really was no excuse for this "urgency", I conclude this is an isolated weirdo-pervs in every country I guess. As we pull away from the gare in our taxi, I look back and am totally blown away by the beauty of the La Rochelle Gare, reminiscent in its white stone and architecture of the chateaux of the Loire-- First obvious example of the prominent role this Atlantic coastal town held in the past. Just a few minutes and we are at our hotel, Best Western Hotel France Angleterre Champlain.

When I was researching trip here on Fodors I was rather at odds for finding a hotel in La Rochelle as there were not a lot of hotel cudos/choices discussed. Cannot recommend this lovely hotel enough. It is small enough to be intimate and personal yet still provide all the amenities. Large bathtub/shower with unending hot water. Single for our son (which actually was same size as ours) 65 euros, double 85 euros. Rooms were spacious with large windows and even though street side, quiet--maybe in the heyday of summer you'd want to ask for a back side room which looks out upon the lovely, large private garden where breakfast is served when weather allows. On main floor there is a large foyer, lovely small aperatif room in blue, a larger sitting room in pinks, a large, antique-mirrored breakfast room all with original parquet flooring, beautiful oak wainscotting and guilded gold reliefs. While there is an elevator, it's much more elegant (fun) descending the huge marble staircase with its huge chandelier towering above. Concierge was gracious and most helfpul. Buffet breakfast is one of the few we would choose to pay for, not only is the quality/choice exceptional but we would pay the price just to eat in the beautiful mirrored room which looks out onto the manicured, highwalled garden (or the garden if it had been open--weather as almost nice enough). Though this hotel is available via internet agencies we were unable to get reservations (told "dates not available") that way. Intent on staying at this hotel which is NOT located on the harbor, I contacted them directly and we obtained 3 rooms without any problem. One of our top hotel stays in France, all trips.

I'd only mentioned that I had walked past the Angleterre and thought the lobby looked beautiful. I'm glad it worked out for you.

I really liked the pee-pee story. For me (and all my twisted friends) a trip in Europe without a pee-pee story is quite the disappointment. :-)

To RebeccaM: Our TGV stopped at Poitiers and it is an extremely easy trip. Immediately upon exiting the La Rochelle gare to the left there is a taxi stand and bus stop. Though we didn't use it, La Rochelle does have a very active public transportation system, electric cars and an immense bike rental business in the old town near the harbor.

We had planned our arrival to coincide with lunch (Can you tell yet that we are Foodies?). Arrived La Rochelle 12:35. At 13:00 we have washed up at hotel and have asked concierge to call for lunch reservations. The ****restaurant Richard Coutanceau could take us at 13:20. Five minute taxi ride to this seafood-specializing gourmet restaurant. (Unemployed) Son wants to order 80 euro lunch...we tell him next time, when he's buying for us. We all order from the "Business Man's Menu" offered at 55 euros, wines included. I defer to the maitre d' to select our wines from the choices, given what we will be dining on; quite taken by his picks 1/2 of red, 1/2 of white since some of us will be enjoying the maigret de canard. Especially taken by the white from the Luberon, of all places (I didn't even know that was wine country!). The restaurant, "in the round" and basically all windows looking out onto the sparkling ocean, offers a spectacular view to match the gourmet cuisine. It is a lovely, sunny day and we watched a small grader sifting and improving the fine-sanded beach laid out in front of us. Service and food are both exceptional; WELL worth the price. Decor is elegant but not ostentatious, though my son would later confide that he was so impressed there were 2 waiters standing at our service behind us non-stop the entire meal. This establishment would be beautifully romantic (but helas more $$ and minus the view in winter months) at night with the candles lit which are one each table. Fancy but not stuffy, a tie is not required at lunch, maybe at dinner it would be a good idea. Can check out the menu options at www.coutanceauonline.com.

Totally satiated, we hop in taxi again to vieux port and walk off lunch taking in the Friday market which is just winding down (place du Marche), browsing among the arcaded shops, stoppingin at Le D'Jolly to have a basket of hand made chocolates made to put in our special friends hotel room. This Salon/Patissier is something for the eye to behold! I've never seen so many gorgeous and varied (large. take-out) gateaux!

Realizing it is late Friday and that we only have large bills, we stop into bank after bank trying to get our 100s turned into smaller bills in case we eat at a smaller place that doesn't take cc--No luck! What is it with the French?! Unless you had an account with them they would not even do something as simple as make change!!! (we were already aware they won't exchange trav. checks generally) We finally found a Credit Lyonnais that would perform this simple service. Whew! After that experience I swore if we ever moved to France I would open my account with Credit Lynnais.

Returned to hotel, rested for a couple of hours then went to the Blue Room for an aperatif while we waited for friends to arrive. Towards 19:00 they join us there where the concierge kindly sees to everyones desires (for those interested from other thread--a beer, a kir vin blanc, a Ricard and 2 Martini Rouge) We set off on foot sans reservation on a Friday night...probably not the best idea. Though "Andre" was recommended we miss it, turning left when we come to the old port instead of turning right as we should have. We wander along the water front, but none of us are inspired by what we see: most look dismally empty and one or two look packed with young, noisy clientele. We turn up a side street and enlist the aid of a young lady walking by. To our amazement she sais "oh, no, you don't want on the waterfront. That's for tourists. Follow me and I'll take you to where the locals go, and then proceeds to go 15 minutes out of her way on foot! Along the way she makes note of historic buildings and informs of there will be an important food market here tomorrow am. We arrive at an intresection and are presented with 3 choices: One an Irish pub (4 out of 5 not the pub type), another which was the obvious "place to be", Le Boute en Train, 7, r. des Bonnes Femmes was fully reserved for the night, and the last one which we decided upon: La Rose des Vins, 16 r. des Cloutiers. This turned out to be a charming restaurant/bar a vins. There was no pre-printed menu handed out...everyday the handwritten chalkboard on the wall changes to extoll the virtues of the day's market's finest, with again lots of seafood. All 5 of us ordered different entrees, plats and desserts. As I had heard eel was a local specialty, I tried it. Very tasty but I didn't like dealing with the little bones. The proprieter was most helpful, even offering a little English when needed to help some of us along. When our son wanted a beer, which he didn't have being a WINE bar, he went next door to the pub to get our son a beer! We really were impressed with the genuine friendliness in La Rochelle. Even the taxi driver offered us a free tourist map as soon as we got in at the gare! All the food and wine were marvelous...wouldn't hesitate to eat in this simple, rustic decor resto. We had to laugh on our way back to the hotel on foot...we had basically done 3/4 of a rectangle from hotel to waterfront to restaurants..all we had to do was walk down rue des Bonnes Femmes which turns into our hotel's street. Ten minutes walk and we were enjoying that hot bath before turning in. So far La Rochelle was turning out to be a lovely visit.

I'm so thrilled that you loved La Rochelle and found your own way around it as far as hotels and restaurants are concerned. I'm loving your report and taking notes for our next trip there.

Hi Klondike,

Great trip report. Thanks for sharing, especially the restaurants.

Just found business card of last night's dinner at La Rose des Vins with notes scribbled on back for those interested--entrees: foie gras poele and Lobster Ravioli in a tasty clear broth/ plats: chicken a l'ecrevisse (crawfish), my eel in garlic with parsleyed potatoes, scrumptious Bar (fish) with red pepper coulis/ dessert: fresh banana tarte with a caramel sauce and Blanc Manger (and the chef stressed mangER, not mangE) Provencal aux amandes. Even our French friends hadn't heard of this one, but were wowed by its velvety-almond-creaminess. Yum.

Day 6 - La Rochelle. Weather is beautiful with little breeze today. Mimosa and some sort of pink flowered bush are in full bloom...just not quite warm enough to take breakfast out in the garden. Dommage! The manicured garden with the ancient, high brick wall and graceful statues is most appealing. We have a leisure breakfast in the antique mirrored room with beautifully linen set tables. Hotel France-Angleterre et Champlain has one of the few breakfast buffets I don't mind paying for. Quality and choice abound and it was a pleasure to wake-up over cafe in such a fantastic room.

Now well fortified, we set out for our day of exploring. Our first stop is back to les halles (can't remember exact name) where the Saturday food market is in full swing. How wonderful to mingle with the locals, up and down the various rows of goodies. The fresh fish/seafood abounds and we only wish we could buy selections from the charcuterie, fromagerie and organic bread artisan there, but we had lunch reservations already...no piqeunique today. What a delight to all senses! We then drove to the vieux port where we started browsing the myriad of arcaded streets for the remainder of the morning. The high quality of products and variety offered attest to the economic well-being of modern day La Rochelle. This is not a seasonal tourist town--no "closed until... " signs to be seen anywhere. It was very much a bustling, young spirited, happening city with tons of historic eye appeal.

Quick jaunt to la gare to pick up friend's daughter and we head to our lunch reservation (THANKS StCirq for the suggestion) at les 4 Sergents, 49 rue Saint-Jean. What a delightful time was had by all!
The moment you enter this "arborium" of sorts with its huge open skylight ceiling and prolific vegetation soothing the spirit, you know you are in for a treat. The cuisine was every bit as delightful as at Coutanceau and the service beyond reproach, but a little more relaxed (for those who like great food but shy way from "hoity-toity"). From the opening aperatif to the fancy desserts it was a success. They have a variety of menus to choose from to suit most peoples tastes and $$ needs, but it is definitely NOT for those on an extremely tight budget. I think most of us ordered from around 34 euro menu some higher, but there was higher AND lower. A definite "keeper" in our Return-to-When-in-Town Book!

We returned to the old harbor to visit the historic towers and climb up to the ramparts. Found some interesting books in the Lantern tower's gift shop and FYI if you are a history/civilization teacher they have some fantastic children's educational products/games. As I don't teach anymore it was all I could do to not buy them...very tempting! We spent the remainder of the afternoon with a tea/cafe/biere outside at one of the Vieux Port cafes--yes, you read right, OUTSIDE in the SUN in February!-- just catching up on family news and watching the sparkling water and boat activity. In the beauty and calm of this fine day it was hard to imagine that 23,000 people had starved to death here during Richelieu's seige of 1628! Daughter left for return to Bordeaux and the rest of us returned for a well deserved nap--sad to say the interesting- sounding museums will have to wait til next visit. Evening we had a lighter crepe at a teensy, authentic creperie which was full-up and turning away anyone without a reservation (we had gotten smart by this time and reserved ahead of time). I'll post the name when I find the receipt. Very easy going, amicable owner. Great, reasonably priced crepes. More walking around the romantic, lit arcades to finish the evening.

Day 7 - Sunday at La Rochelle. Musuems closed. No special plans for the little time that remains other than to spend good moments with friends, knowing Sunday mid-meal willbe a long, pleasurable "event". Infatuated with boats, the two messieurs point the car in the direction of the modern port, Le Minime, where we spend the morning...ah, we finally found all the REAL sailboats. It's huge--I think I remember reading that La Rochelle is the largest yachting center on the Atlantic coast and the sea of mastsare impressive. We, Bretons and adopted-Bretons, can't help but wistfully note that the beloved smell of sea-salt and seaweed is lacking for some reason in La Rochelle.

We return to the parking near Tour de la Chaine and walk along the water front, enjoying the view of sailboats dipping peacefully in the distance, admiring as we pass the massive towers which have protected the little harbor for so many centuries, until we come to the stockpile of restaurants on rue de la Chaine (starts like a square on the wharf and narrows to a tiny street). The renowned Les Flots catches our eye first, but the menu seems quite limited. We move on to the the hotel-recommended Andre, but not much is happening there and we aren't inspired again. We all agree on Le Corail, next door to Les Flot's sister restaurant, Le Comptoir Sud, looks good and so begins another epicurian adventure. Once again, this seemed to be the place where all the locals go. It was full within 20 minutes of opening, and those we had passed by weren't. Great food, great ambiance for reasonable $$ and a REAL non-smoking section-the whole upstairs! Tables were packed tighter than some American comfort levels would like, but for us it just made for a more convivial time. Right at opening time (noonish) we let the server know we had a train to catch so needed to be out by 1425. He didn't bat an eye, "Pas de probleme". This one server ran his ***off running up and down those stairs serving a full room of diners and still managed to get us our 4 course meal served with no more apparent distress than a perspiring brow. Professional servers are impressive to watch. Heartily recommend Le Corail, but be forewarned that like many restaurants in this coastal city, it is pretty much a seafood menu. Most of the places we ate at offered a biftek or duck but the emphasis is definitely on SEAfood! 14:20 we are out the door, 14:35 we are receiving hugs and les bises on the quai of the Gare. DH's eyes get as big as dinner plates this time when he realizes we are in car #6 and he is in #20. I reassure him I'll come sit with him after the train gets going and send him off. Only later and 2 cars walked through, do I come to find a dead end! Turns out 2 engines are separating us from the rest of the train. Of course he manages to survive this separation just fine and the trip back to Pais is quick (less than 3 hrs) and uneventful.

Thoughts on La Rochelle: If you like Honfleur, you will love La Rochelle. It has more history, more towers , more ports, more shopping, and as many if not more great places to eat. We kind of liked the feeling of having this tourist haven to ourselves in the offseason. I'm not sure we would like it as much when the summer crowds arrive, but I'd definitely return again. With its warmer coastal climate, it was a nice contrast to Paris. We would also return to our hotel, especially during tourist season, when apparently the waterfront can be super noisy. For those looking for a hotel close to the water, at a glance the Jeanne d'Arc looked very nice, right at "restaurant row" r. de la chaine. High season I wouldn't want to NOT have reservations for food and lodging!

Klondike, wonderful report. We love La Rochelle. I like "Les Flots" because I love grilled lobster, (something rare or not well done here in New England) and I loved his father's restaurant, "Richard Countaneau" and for oysters the "Au Vieux-Port"
Next time, we will get to the Musée des Beaux-Arts that we didn't see because they have some Signacs.

Thanks again klondike for the report. The fine arts museum had a few Martinots too.

You're killin' me here. :-) I'm going to Beaune & Dijon in May, when reading your report I'd love to go back to La Rochelle and the Atlantic side again.

Klondike, thank you for this wonderful report. I thought about going to La Rochelle because it seemed do-able in a short time (a few days) and I have already been to other parts of France. Glad to hear that the trip through Poitiers is good. I don't think you said which hotel you stayed in in La Rochelle. Can you tell us and whether you liked it?

RebeccaM: We stayed at France-Angleteree et Champlain, 20 r. Rambaud
tel. 05 46 41 23 99 fax. 05 46 41 15 19

You can find them through the main Best Western website or contact them directly, which is what I did by fax.

It is a leisure 15 min. walk down to the vieux port or taxis respond to the hotel within minutes and are not too expensive if you are in a hurry. We appreciated the beauty and sense of privacy away from the maddening crowds this hotel provided.