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Trip report: Paris, D-Day beaches, Giverny and Loire Valley

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Trip report: Paris, D-Day beaches, Giverny and Loire Valley

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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 11:55 AM
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Trip report: Paris, D-Day beaches, Giverny and Loire Valley

Yes, we did it all! I am back from our 10 day trip to Paris and surroundings. This was our 10th Anniversary vacation and our two boys, age 2 and 6, stayed with family in Cincinnati.

I want to thank everyone for all the advice and good wishes. We had an amazing time and spent a lot of time together, which we don't always get to do. And, I took about 350 pictures.

So here goes:

Day 1 & 2 travel day: We left Cincinnati Monday night on non-stop flight from 7:30pm - 9:30am. The flight was fine but neither of us slept at all! Needless to say, we were exhausted when we landed. It took 2 hours to get through immigration and get train tickets to Paris. Then another 30 minutes on the train. Our metro stop was Luxembourg on the B line, pretty convenient. Our hotel was right next to the Pantheon. When we came out of the metro we didn't know which way to walk, and went the wrong way about 1 1/2 blocks before asking directions. We got checked in to Hotel du Pantheon, which was very nice, staff very courteous. Our room was small, but big enough. Very pretty, what I would call country French decor. Nice bath fixtures with painted tiles. But no drawers to unpack clothes into.

We took a little nap, then went to Crepes A Go-Go, across the street. I tried camembert, and was not impressed. I also tried cider and did not care for it either. My husband had a toasted ham and cheese which was pretty good and I ate some of his. Then we walked around the Luxembourg Gardens for awhile. I was expecting more flowers, maybe they aren't in bloom yet?

We went back to the room for another nap around 4pm. Then headed out for dinner. We took a taxi to a place recommended here near the Eiffel Tower, but my husband did not like the menu. So we walked up the street and ended up in a Romanian place. My husband had spaghetti and I had veal with mushrooms in a brown cream sauce, it was very good.

After dinner we went to the Eiffel Tower. I was surprised to see armed military with machine guns wandering about. We were at the top when the twinkling lights came on at 10pm. It was fantastic. I have some really great pictures of the Eiffel Tower at night. We were home by 11pm and had a pretty good first day, tired as we were.
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 12:02 PM
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EmilySD, thanks for sharing your trip report. I'm looking forward to reading more!
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 02:04 PM
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Thanks for posting your report, will check back for the rest.
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 03:31 PM
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Day 3 busy, busy, busy: We decided not to set an alarm, and we slept until 10am and were out the door about 11am. We grabbed a croissant and cafe american (with water) somewhere on the street, Croissanterie? or something similar. Yummy croissant better than any I've had here. The weather was mid 50's to mid 60's all week, but it didn't really rain on us, so we were ok with the chilliness.

Once we ate we took the metro to Notre Dame. It was very beautiful ~ the stained glass and alcoves and it smelled of incense. It was very impressive, although we found it to be dirty, also. There was a line to climb the stairs and we weren't quite feeling up to it, so we passed.

For lunch, we went to a place diagonal from Notre Dame. Ah, pizzas. They were good, except for the olive oil drizzled over the top. And no pepperoni or sausage to speak of. I had ground beef and mushrooms, husband had cheese. We sat inside, but by the window.

Next, we saw the fountain at St Michel, but St Chapelle was closed until 2:15, so we went to Conciergerie first. In line we met a couple from Laguna Beach, we are from San Diego. Conciergerie was interesting, although a bit empty. Then we went to St. Chapelle. I really enjoyed being here. It had 50 foot stained glass walls on all sides. Really incredible. I wish the weather had been sunnier. After this we headed back home. But, when we came out of the metro, we decided to stop for a crepe, I had chocolat and banane. Very good!

We took a nap for awhile then headed out to the Louvre. We arrived about 6:30 and they were open for late hours until 9:30pm. Of course, it was overwhelming and fantastic. We spent the majority of time in the Eqyptian wings. We also made our way to see the Venus di Milo and Mona Lisa. Except for the Mona Lisa, I was surprised how close you could get to the pieces. We took a break for "dinner" which was a terrible sandwich in a plastic box. But, it got us through until closing. Then we stopped at the international foodcourt. Most places were closing and the food didn't look very fresh. I actually can't remember what we ate there. But we finished with gelato! We made it back home and went to sleep after a crazy, busy day! No alarm tomorrow either.
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 03:55 PM
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Day 4 waiting, waiting: Again no alarm, and again I actually slept until 10am. My kids usually have me up at 6:30! We left about 11am and had croissant and cafe. Then headed to Musee D'Orsay. This was at the top of my list of places to visit. I guess it was for everyone else! We couldn't believe the line!

I know, I know, I should've had the museum pass, but I didn't see it anywhere the day before. I guess they have it at the Louvre, but I got our reduced fare, after hours tickets from the kiosk and it didn't offer the museum pass.

So, anyway, we waited about 75 minutes to get into D'Orsay. Apparently, there was a special exhibit of Matisse and Cezanne that was ending that weekend. So, maybe that had something to do with it. Once we finally made it inside, we went straight for lunch. We ate in a rapide place, but were seated and waited on. We both had lasagna, which was good. And of course the bread was fantastic. It was nice to sit and relax.

After lunch, we toured most of the museum. It was a wonderful afternoon. It was just incredible to look at and be so close to the actual pieces from Monet, Renoir and Degas, in particular.

We headed home and took a rest. Then went to dinner at a Chinese place near our hotel. It was good, but not the same as in the US. The flavors were more delicate and the spring rolls didn't have any vegetables in them, just ground pork.

After dinner we headed to Pont Neuf and took a 9pm cruise on the Seine. It was cold, but we really enjoyed it. The tour guide was pleasant and a bit funny too. We left a tip of 5E, but we didn't see anyone else leave a tip. Is this not really done in Europe? Afterward, we headed home and went to bed. The day started out slowly, but I had a fantastic time at D'Orsay once we made it inside.
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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Day 5 more places to visit: Today is Friday, and we slept in again, until 10am. I was surprised I could sleep that late. Same morning as before, out at 11am, croissant and cafe, hit the metro.

Today we headed to Arc de Triomphe. We came out of the metro and started walking, then realized there was no place to cross the street to get to the Arc. Then we noticed the signs for the underground passage to the Arc. But, we couldn't figure out where it was. So, we headed back toward the tour buses that were parked and sure enough, found the tunnel. It took us about 15 minutes to figure this all out. So, at the Arc, we wandered around a bit and took to the stairs ~ all 240 or so. There was of course an incredible view from up there. I like how all the buildings are the same height, the only skyscrapers are way off in the distance. We headed back downstairs and walked up the Champs Elysses.

We stopped for lunch at one of the pizza places and were able to relax a bit. Then we took the metro to Hotel des Invalides. Napoleans Tomb was beautiful and fantastic. They have his uniform and medals on display. We also went to the Army Museum, which my husband thoroughly enjoyed. They have armor for men and horses from 1500's and some Viking and Asian pieces as well. We had a great visit here.

We headed home, but stopped at Dallayou for dessert and coffee. Then, I had to go to the laundromat. It was busy, but I didn't have to wait for a machine. It was about a 10 min walk from our hotel. When I returned it was about time to head out for dinner. We went to a place behind the church, behind the Pantheon. I had a very good steak and mashed potatoes, and husband had salmon, which he also liked very much. We went home early, but had another wonderful day. Tomorrow we have to get up at 5:30am!
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 04:47 PM
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I'm enjoying reading your report, Emily.
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Old Jun 8th, 2006, 08:15 PM
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looking forward to the rest.
Thanks, Emily.

Dina
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Old Jun 9th, 2006, 07:59 AM
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Day 6 tour to Normandy and D-Day Beaches: We booked a tour with Paris Trip Minibus. They picked us up at our hotel at 6:15am. It was a minvan that only carried seven passengers, which was very nice. We stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast then made the 2+ hour journey. The day was very chilly and damp, but didn't quite rain.

Our first stop was Pont du Hoc. Of course, it was very solemn. We went into an old bunker and we were surprised that there are still craters from the bombs all over the landscape. Some of them 15 feet deep and maybe 25 feet across. We then made a stop at one of the American landing beaches. There is a new sculpture there, I think called the "Wings of Hope". It is standing right in the ocean.

Next, we went to the American Cemetery. There are over 6,000 American soldiers buried there. It is stunning to see all those crosses and Stars of David. It was interesting there were American and French flags at every grave. Maybe for the anniversary ceremonies that were approaching?

We next stopped at the British landing beach and had lunch there. There were still pieces from the artificial harbour in the ocean. And from the floating bridge used to drive the tanks onto land.

After lunch we went to the Caen Peace Museum. The film there was incredible. It showed the American & Allied forces on one side of the split screen and the German forces on the other side of the screen. I wish we had seen the film before we visited the other places. The most memorable part of the museum for me was a simple engraving in the white marble wall that stated "1939-1945 50,000,000 Victims". I was truly stunned at the number. If I were asked to guess, I would have thought about 20mil, but my husband thought the German and Russian armies lost about 30mil between them. It is just an inconceivable number to imagine losing their lives.

We then had a 3 hour ride back to the city. Very tedious. I was so glad we had decided to take this trip. It was a very long day, and cold. But one I'm very glad for.
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Old Jun 9th, 2006, 09:07 AM
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Day 7 Beautiful Giverny: We set out about 8am, had our croissant and were pleased to see some sunshine, finally! We took the 9:30am train to Vernon and a taxi to Giverny. Apparently, there are buses, but I guess we exited the train station the wrong direction. We waited in line about 20 minutes to get inside. It was Monther's Day in France, perhaps that accounted for the lines? Or maybe it is always that way on the weekend.

The pink crushed stone house is kept as it was when Monet lived there. They do not have any of his original pieces. The artwork on the walls are the pieces he collected and arranged. Mostly Japanese artwork. There are also pieces that other artists had painted of Monet, while he is painting in his garden. All the furniture and dishes, etc. were his also.

Then, we made it out to the garden. Absolutley stunning. We walked through the Irises and Peonies and Wisteria, then through the tunnel under the street to the lily pond. We wandered about there for awhile. We stood on the Japanese bridge and had our picture taken together. We also took pictures for a few other couples. It was such a beautiful and relaxing visit. We weren't rushed and the weather was as nice as it had been all week.

Again, I was very happy we had made this trip. Along with the Louvre and D'Orsay, this was a highlight for me of our vacation. I took about 40 pictures just of the flowers. I'm not sure what I'll do with them yet, but something interesting. We had lunch there, but just from the take away window. My husband had a hot dog, which came in a hollowed out baguette, which he liked. I had ham and cheese sandwich. We took the bus to the train station only to find out we were actually an hour early. This was disappointing because the reataurant at Giverny looked so lovely, but we didn't think we had enough time to sit and eat. We made it back to our room about 5:30pm and rested a bit.

Later, about 7pm, we headed out again to Sacre Coeur. We had dinner at a place on the corner facing Sacre Coeur. I had lasagna and husband had spaghetti, which actually had real meat sauce. Both were very good. We rode the incline up and walked around inside Sacre Coeur. It was very beautiful and smelled wonderful, too. Outside the view of the city was amazing. There were a lot of people sitting on the steps and a few men were performing tricks with a soccer ball and dancing. It was a very nice end to an incredible day.
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Old Jun 9th, 2006, 09:39 AM
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I'm enjoying this report, Emily, thank you.

Looking forward to the rest!
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Old Jun 9th, 2006, 07:39 PM
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Day 8 & 9 visit to Loire Valley: Monday morning we were all packed and ready to go on a little adventure. We checked out and dragged all of our luggage to the metro, then went to the train station. What an ordeal. We had only 10 minutes before the next the train left for Amboise, but were assured we had time to make it, and we did, just in time. It was a 2 hr trip to Amboise in the Loire Valley.

Once we arrived, we took a taxi to the hotel, only 5E. Our hotel was very nice, but it was right off the road. I had expected it to be on larger grounds and more secluded. We stayed at Manoir les Minimes. We were greeted by a large shaggy dog at the front door. Our room was incredible. We had a deluxe, with a separate sofa by the tv. We had a view of the Loire River and of the Chateau Amboise. The furnishings in the room, in the hallways and the common rooms were impeccable. So many wonderful little touches.

We went into town for lunch then made our way to Clos Luce, which is where Leonardo Da Vinci lived his last few years and died. They have about 30 models constructed from his drawings, but they are not hands on. We were fairly unimpressed with the whole place. The house was nice, and the grounds simple, but it was very expensive, 12E, where the Louvre is 8.50.

We walked back to the Chateau Amboise and wandered about there for awhile. This is where Da Vinci is actually buried. The view of the Loire River and the country was very pretty. And we could see our hotel, as well.

We stopped at a shop for gelato before going back to our hotel for a rest. It had already been a long day. After a few hours we went back into town, about a 10 minute walk, to have dinner. We went to the Chinese place, which was pretty good. Then just headed back home.

Day 9: We opted for the breakfast at the hotel to save time in the morning. And it was just lovely. Beautiful china settings on every table. Delicious pasteries (chocolate croissant), coffee, stewed apples and orange juice. Just wonderful.

We rented a car for the day, it was actually brought right to the hotel for us. My husband was nervous about driving, but we managed just fine. Plenty of signage everywhere. A bit nrevous the first few roundabouts, but entered and exited correctly. I'm really glad we took the car. We drove through several little villages, saw a lot of the countryside and had a chance just to talk and take it all in. Our vacation was almost over.

We first went to Chenonceau. It was a very long walk up a tree-lined drive to arrive there. I really liked this chateau, it had a lot of furniture in it, as well as the kitchen furnished and tapestries on the walls. And it is so interesting how it is built over the river. The gardens seemed ok, but weren't much in bloom. We had lunch here, very good, fully cooked cheeseburgers and french fries.

Next, we stopped at Cheverny, but we did not go it. I was hoping to see the outside of the chateau without paying to go in, but we could barely get a glimpse. I wanted to make sure we made it to Chambord, so did not to spend time touring here.

We did get to Chambord, it was about an 1 1/2 hrs from our hotel. It is the largest in the Loire Valley. It was stunning how enormous it is. They have a wonderful display of furniture, paintings and artifacts such as china and coins. Before we left we had a fabulous dessert in a shop there. I had cream puffs with chocolate sauce and husband had an ice-cream sundae with about four scoops of ice-cream. We were now prepared to hit the road for home.

We made it back at 5 or 6pm and rested a bit, then since we had the car, we headed out to McDonald's. We avoided it for eight days, but on the ninth day, it just sounded really good. And I tell you, that McChicken was the best I ever had. Then, it was time for bed, we had to travel back to Paris in the morning.
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