Trip Report--Paris, Barcelona, Costa Brava, and Mallorca
 

Just returned and am SO JET LAGGED (yes, I took No Jet Lag, but it didn't help this time!) but here goes...

APRIL 6--SEATTLE--COPENHAGEN--PARIS

APRIL 7-APRIL 11—PARIS
HOTEL SPLENDID TOUR EIFFEL
29 avenue de Tourville
33-14551292
155 Euros

APRIL 14—APRIL 29—SPAIN
APRIL 11—15-- BARCELONA
HOTEL BANYS ORIENTALS
C/Argentina 37
129 Euros

APRIL 15-20—CATALUYA (450 Euros plus VAT)
APRIL 15--18—PARADOR AIGUABLAVA, BEGUR
Side trips to:
Pals
Peretallada
Pubol (Casa Gila)
Girona
Figueres to Theatro Dali
Empuries

APRIL 18-19—PARADOR VIC-SAC
Side trip to Rupid

APRIL 19-20—PARADOR CARDONA
Side trip to Montserrat

APRIL 20-21—BARCELONA
HOTEL TRYP BARCELONA AEROPURETO
90 Euros (thru sol-melia.com)

APRIL 21—28—MALLORCA
EDO @ Mediterranean Club Cala Pi
Utb. Torra Cala Pi
Llucmajor, Mallorca, Baleares
34-971-123010

APRIL 28—BARCELONA
HOTEL TRYP BARCELONA AEROPURETO
90 Euros (thru sol-melia.com)

APRIL 29—BARCELONA-COPENHAGEN-SEATTLE

PARIS
I don’t know what it is about Paris, but to me, it’s pure magic. This time was better than ever because we had absolutely gorgeous weather—sunny and in the high 60s. Everyone was out on the streets in great spirits.

Hotel location was fantastic, Thomas was so helpful, but the room was so small and maybe it’s just the way it is in Paris, but for over $200 a night, it seemed high. I’d look for another place next time, though wouldn’t totally nix this one.

Of course, went to my favorite museums—and except for the crowds (which we were apart of) it was great, except the Lourve was really a mobscene. Might just skip it next time. Really. It was that crowded.

Also, would skip Champ E’lyees

Concert at St. Chapell was just good, but not great.

BEST:
Restaurants:
Les Fables de La Fontaine
131 rue St. Dominque
01 44 18 37 55
beyond rave—reservations a must
lunch 105 Euros and worth every cent!

L’auberge Bressane
16 avenue de la Monte Piquet
www.auberge-bressame.com
01 47 05 98 37
excellent food and service— dinner—100 Euros


DISAPPOINTMENTS:
Restaurants:
Le Grand Café--This used to be one of our favorites, but except for the décor, we were really disappointed in everything this time.

Parraudin--Gets good reviews, but we sure didn’t think it was good.

Will continue with Barcelona when I can half-way function.

Wow! Thanks for the fast report back...I wouldn't even be able to gather my thoughts, let along type!

Will understand if you need a little time to re-group, but will be waiting.

thanks klondike--I did promise I'd move on to Barcelona, but have a few more thoughts on Paris, so here goes...

Tips—
The “Botobus” can be a good idea and is fun, but we had to wait over 45 minutes at one stop to get another bus and it isn’t even high tourist time, so keep this in mind if you’re in a hurry. You might be better off on a regular tour boat.
I read Almost French by on the way over and it gave me some really good insights on Paris. Two in particular come to mind—
--she points out how Paris is almost “so perfect” it can feel “claustrophobic” and I can see where after awhile, this could be the case, though certainly in the limited time we were there, it didn’t feel that way to me
-this time, as in the past, I’ve witnessed some rudeness, but only with the salesgirls at “fancy stores”—this time a shop on Champ E’leesyes, a time in the past at Layfette. Both times I had gone in prepared to spend a considerable sum on a birthday present for myself, and both times, I felt, I’m not spending a cent at a place that treats me rudely. (This time I even thought, “Hell, I’m dressed as well as Melinda Gates dresses, and DH is dressed better than Bill…”) but her insights into this in the book explains a lot—how what I’m witnessing is really a case of an inferiority complex, but still…I’d rather spend money where I’m treated nicely…which I was in Barcelona…


So, on to Barcelona....

artlover,

Just a quick question on the Batobus - where you using as transportation when you had to wait 45 minutes, or as a river cruise substitute? Did you buy a 1/2 day pass?

I didn't realize the wait time might be so long, and I was thinking of using it on our trip at the end of May - was it at a certain time of day that you had to wait so long?

Anna,
We were using it as a combination of transportation/sight-seeing and needed to change some money so thought we might be able to around Hotel de Ville, which we couldn't, stopped in to see the very well done, but depressing show of French hildren of the Holocaust, and went back to the pickup spot where we waited about 45 minutes until we were able to get on another boat. Wasn't so bad, we weren't in a big hurry, but don't know that I'd recommend using this in this way, especially in May.

Hope this helps.

And on to Barcelona...

BARCELONA
Loved this hotel—thanks Maribel. http://hotelbanysorientals.com. We had a suite and as Maribel has pointed out, this place isn’t for everyone, but we loved it. Very difficult to find the hotel, and even more difficult to find the suites which are on the next block, but if you like contemporary, high tech décor, you’ll like this place. Lots of room and some very nice comps such as free Internet and free bottled water (after I tasted the Barcelona tap water, I really appreciated this!)

We had “Seattle weather” in Barcelona, so didn’t do some of the things we had done before but planned to do, such as Parc Guell, but did some others that were good such as the Contemporary Art Museum and the tour of the Palac de Musica, which was very worthwhile. Plus we went to a concert there which was very good, especially the Beethoven piece.

Usually I’m not at all a big shopper, but I really caught the bug in Barcelona. I thought the shops and the values were incredible. (And I was treated very nicely, but this might be because I speak more Spanish than French.)

The energy in Barcelona is incredible, but the Gaudi sights are packed with tourists (like us ) My only disappointment (besides the weather) was that there seemed to be much more graffiti (and I don’t mean the “pretty” kind) this time than last, and I read enough Spanish to understand that some of it was saying “The tourists are ruining this city.” Well, maybe they have a point there—this certainly is a debatable issue anyplace that draws lots of tourists.

A real treat was going for wine and tapas with fellow Fodorite, Claire. I can still see her riding up on her collapsible bike—what a delightful person.

HIGHLIGHTS
The Magic Fountain on Saturday night
Casa Battlo
The tour of Palau de la Musica
The Museu d’Art Contemporarani

RESTAURANTS

BEST—one comment about my list—none of them took reservations and ALL of them had LONG LINES and unless you get there early, you can plan on a LONG wait, but ALL on this list were worth the wait (just make sure you’re not too hungry or you might get cranky like I do when I’m hungry)

Cal Pep
Placa de las Olles
(between Barceloneta and Via Layetana)
This really lives up to its reputation
If you have a party of 6 or more, you can get reservations in the tiny back room
The tuna tartar and potato tortilla were unbelievable
Lunch with 2 glasses of wine was 72 Euros

Le Quinze Nitz
La Placa Reial 6
Everything here was great, but the taramusu (sp?) was
Amazing, and the calamari was just good
Dinner with bottle of wine 49 Euros

La Dolca Herminia
Magdalenes 27
Near Palau de la Musica
Lunch with ½ café of wine was 26 Euros

The Attic
Les Rambles 120
This place wasn’t on our list, but we were desperate and hungry and even though we were told we’d have to wait ½ hour only waited 15 minutes and were glad we did
Dinner with bottle of Cava was 66 Euros

DISAPPOINTMENTS
Senyor Parellada
(sorry Maribel, maybe it was an off-night?) But it was inexpensive—dinner with bottle of wine was 35 Euros)

Taller Tapa
(sorry Claire, we disagree on this one) 3 tapas with ½ bottle wine—26 Euros

TIPS
As Maribel has suggested, the Barcelona Bus Turistic is the way to go, though we went on a rainy day so didn’t have to wait in lines. Might be an issue on other days.

Thanks artlover

You're welcome Anna. This can be a problem on the Bus Touristic as well, as Maribel has pointed out, but we were lucky that we didn't have that problem the day we used it, but I saw lines of people waiting at stops a few days later when it was sunnier outside.

BTW, does anyone have any idea about Maribel's whereabouts? (or maybe I should ask that as a seperate post), but I did want to thank her, and of course the others who helped out, especially in Costa Brava, which is the next installment (soon, I hope).

I don't know where Maribel is..I really miss her round here :)

I do too! Her advise was amazing. Maribel, are you there?

When are we going to get the Mallorca installment? I'm really looking forward to reading that part of your report (the rest has been great too, but Mallorca doesn't get many writeups and I'm interested in visiting there).

Sorry, I think I goofed in the way I set this up, but I did a seperate post in the "Spain" category for that part of the report, but still haven't gotten to the Mallorca part yet, but am planning to soon.

Oh dear, gives me the travel bug.

hopingtotravel--I think that's a bug everyone here has! :D