Trip Report-Naples, Matera, Ravello and more
 

Just returned from 2 weeks in Italy - a very interesting trip. Spent the first week at cooking school south of Naples [on a buffalo farm - can't eat imported buffalo mozzarella ever again!]. From there we drove south to Matera - an incredibly interesting town that had been deserted in the 1950's - but now the caves are being re-gentrified. We stayed in Taranto and spent some time in Puglia. Drove to Maratea, a lovely beach town - and ended up at the Palazzo Sasso in Ravello - an absolutely "dreamy" hotel. Had an incredible lunch at Don Alfonso in Sant'Agata Sui Due Golfo.
Would love to answer any questions!

How did you get around? Did you rent a car or have a driver?

Tell us about Matera, please.

Please tell us about Maratea, I will be there in August.

Why can't you eat imported buffalo mozzarella again?

Hi Please tell us about your stay in Ravello, we are heading there. Thanks.

Very interesting itinerary--how could I expect any less from you. Tell us more.

What is your opinion of Don Alfonso-as aopposed to other restaurants in the area?

What is the name of the cooking school you attended?

Your trip sounds wonderful!

Isn't Matera where "the Passion" was filmed?

Perche no?!? Mozzarella di bufala is the best kind! Caprese is just not the same with the regular mozzarella!

Thank you so much for your interesting questions.
First to clear up the mozzarella issue - having eaten mozzarella di bufalo so fresh that it's still warm (if you get my drift...), even the imported cheese is at least 10 hours old. I'm totally spoiled - and proud of it!

We went to Arthur Schwartz's cooking school in Paestum. Arthur is a NYC radio personality into food, wine, restaurants, and all cose nella cucina. Arthur's website is: (www.foodmaven.com) We had 3 days of cooking, and visited Naples with him, as well as many other local places. It was fabulous!
We rented a car and drove around after that. I always drive because I prefer the freedom that it offers - and, except for the speed, I find Italian driving very civilized (just stay to the right!).
Matera was really an incredible place. Yes - it is the place where Mel Gibson filmed the Passion. Matera has an old part and a new part. We stayed in the old part at the Hotel Sassi where we climbed over 100 steps (with luggage). Some of the rooms are actually caves - the others look like caves. As interesting as the old city is, that's how lovely the new city is.
There's a wonderful "passagiata" in the evening and it has a very upscale feeling.
Basilicata is a very interesting part of Italy. What used to be a very poor part of the country has now become the furniture manufacturing area of Italy - the money that has been poured in by the government has not been "skimmed" but has done lots of good.
We were supposed to stay in Matera 2 nights - but one was really enough to see everything. So we just took of to Taranto for the second night.
Maratea is a beautiful little beach community. There are 2 parts to the city - one in the hills and one by the sea. Since we were there in March, the sea community was pretty deserted but obviously getting ready for action. We stayed in the upper part of the town - at a lovely hotel, La Locanda delle Donne Monarche. I had wanted to stay by the sea, at the Santavenere - but it was not yet opened for the season. We peeked at it - and it was really beautiful. Both hotels are owned by the same people.
I had visited Ravello before, but this time we stayed at the Palazzo Sasso and it was wonderful. Very beautiful. A great way to end a fabulous vacation - [but every trip to Italy is fabulous!
Re: Don Alfonso, I thought it was one of the best meals I've had in Italy. It is expensive, though - so you have to be prepared for it. I took pictures of all the food - it was not only gorgeous but everything tasted wonderful. I commented about it to the owner - because often at such renowned restaurants, the taste does not quite measure up to the looks. It was worth the trip to the end of the Amalfi Drive...

ttt as requested

How much does a meal at Don Alfonso cost?

Lunch at Don Alfonso was 488 Euros - for 3.

$600.00 for lunch for 3
No wonder, in Spaccanapoli they say;
At Don Alfonso they dress the salads with the tears of the poor.

Hi bella,

So, tell us about Palazzo Sasso. Not many of us will ever get there.

How was the restaurant?

I really loved Palazzo Sasso. The rooms were wonderful as were the views. It had every amenity - and the public areas were breathtaking.

I was, however, disappointed with the restaurant, Rossellini's. Given the Michelin review, I expected a lot more. While the food was very good, I thought that Don Alfonso was far superior and memorable.