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Trip Report--my solo voyage to Paris

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Trip Report--my solo voyage to Paris

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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 08:23 AM
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Finally had time to view your photos. Love your trip report, loved your photos, Loved, Loved, Loved your quirky sense of humor! And I think your haircut looks great, too.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 02:27 PM
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Creative and fun to read--thanks for a great report!
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:18 PM
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jenny, I told Cara Black her stalker said hello. Everyone laughed at that. She said saw you last night. We had a nice dinner together.
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Old Apr 13th, 2006, 11:28 PM
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Jenny,

Send me an e-mail at [email protected]. I'll send you some info on Yves.
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 09:48 AM
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Sorry I dropped off the face of the planet for a bit there--dealing with a bit of a family drama...

But I'm spending my Easter afternoon working a theater office shift and really there's nothing else to do but play on the internet! So I'm back!

tod--I wouldn't get rid of that guide either! it's too good! I didn't use Degas' passages post, but I'm thinking I need to go find it to read now. My husband and I had stayed in the 9th on our first trip to Paris four years ago and went through some of them, but not as many as I did this time. And there are still more! I need to go again, clearly. I use the Michelin Paris Pocket Atlas and it marks the passages and pedestrian only streets with green dashes--so it is very easy to plot a route through them. My husband has actually said, "oh there's some green lines there--let's go that way, it could be cool".

cigale--thank you for saying hello to the great Ms. Black for me!!! Love it!

Thanks guys for finding me a bit amusing and liking my pictures and my hair cut! Some days a girl needs a little validation you know--especially on the touchy subject of hair...

Now, I'll get crackin' on the rest of thing--if anyone is still reading that is!
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 11:05 AM
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Nice to see you back!
Besides covered passages I have a fascination for the narrow twisty turny ones leading between buildings from one street to another. (This all started after watching a TV series of a guy travelling around the canals of France on his boat called the Regina).
I found his Passage LHomme, 26 Rue De Charonne, in the 11th and it was like being in the actual movie. As I slowly walked down, the same Corgi dog appeared from the same doorway and waddled up to greet me. It was SO cool! A day I'll never forget.
If you haven't got the book "Unexplored Paris" by Rudolph Trouilleux, get it!
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 11:22 AM
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Sunday morning dawns grey, but it isn't raining so I decide to stick with my plan of going to the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves. The flea market. I love a good flea market! On the metro ride to Porte de Vanves there is a clarinet player who serenades us with Irving Berlin's "Cheek to Cheek" and then the theme to the Muppet Show...so NOT what I expect to hear on the Paris metro, but it makes me smile. I need to change metro lines at Montparnasse so I get to experience the Très Rapide moving sidewalk for myself. Does the world really need a moving sidewalk that does 9km/h? I don't know, but I'd sure appreciate it if they'd install one at JFK.

I'd read that the Porte de Vanves fles market is "doable" in a few hours. And also that the prices are pretty good. I have really good luck digging here! One sterling silver gravy ladle and a pair of silver sugar tongs for 60euro--that's my best score of the trip, I think. (My mom and I have already identified the ladle through research and I think I'm going to sell it. I really have no business owning a gravy ladle worth this much! None whatsoever. Lucky for me Mom is engaged to an antiques dealer so I think I'll let them deal with it. Besides--it's time to start saving up for my next trip, right?) I also buy some little sewing bits and pieces and a few more pieces of antique lace. One of the sewing items I buy is a length of initial tape/ribbon--it's white with my initials, JG, stitched in red about every inch along the ribbon. One would sew it into one's garment to identify ownership. Deeper into the market I fall in love with a white cotton and lace apron. There is a darned spot on the skirt (tiny, tiny little stitches) and one teeny tear on the side of the bib. On the inside of the waistband is sewn a piece of white, initialed ribbon in the same style I just bought. The apron is hanging in my kitchen now. I hope that whoever the owner was, she was a good cook, we could use a little karma in that kitchen...

It starts to rain after a couple of hours and I've lost my #$@%%& umbrella! That's the second one this week! I retrace my steps and nothing...I ask monsieur who I bought the silver from if he has seen a parapluie vert. Sadly, non, but wait madame... He yells for his son to fetch me an umbrella from their van. "It is not beautiful, but you will be dry!" Bless his little heart--I have to get our picture taken together.

For the rest of the day I plan to visit first the Grand Palais and then perhaps the Musée des Arts de la Mode et du Textile and Musée des Arts décoratifs. It's been eight days and I haven't been inside ONE museum. That just seems wrong somehow...right? The line outside the Grand Palais is huge. And it does not move once in thirty minutes. I cut my loses and take a stroll up the Champs-Elysées, I'm hungry and I haven't been to Ladurée yet. Quel horreur!

The solo dining gods smile on me and I am seated by the windows looking out on the Avenue. --enter JEAN, stage left-- While I am waiting for my appetizer, the older gentleman seated at the table next to me begs my pardon and asks if I am American (so much for those French lessons). We chat--he is from Provance, I am from New York. His daughter lived in San Francisco for one year. What do you do? I'm an actress who does temp work to help pay the bills. What do you do? (something in finance I gather). Jean offers to share his bottle of wine with me--apparently my lone glass of white wine is shameful). And also, "in Paris it is a sin to let a beautiful woman dine alone". Jean, I think my mother warned me about guys like you!

I went to the ladies room after my dessert and when I come back downstairs it's to find him PAYING MY BILL. The waitor standing behind him winks and is practically giving me the thumbs up! All I can think is..."is this guy for real?" This is the part of the story where I throw my plans for museums out of the window. The man just bought me lunch at Ladurée--if he wants to go climb around Montmartre wtih me, I'll go climb around Montmartre with him. Plus he's really sweet (please, god, don't let him be a seriel killer). So we did. We walk around for a bit talking about the artists who used to live here, etc. Then we go to one of the cafes right around Place du Tertre and have a Perrier while talking to this couple who are sitting next to us with their dog. Tourists keep taking pictures of the dog so we decide there should be a pricing scheme. 1euro for a photo of the dog, 2euro to pet the dog.

By this point it's getting late in the day and I say I must go back to my hotel. Jean insists that I must take a taxi and oh, by the way, can I take you to dinner tomorrow night?!?!! I tell him that I honestly have to think about that one, okay? No offense, but I just met you. No problem--may I call your hotel tomorrow? Oh sure--here's the name of where I'm staying. Jean hails a taxi and pays the driver to take me back to my hotel. Huh? Did that guy just pay for you to drive me to my hotel? I really didn't know stuff like that happened in real life. At least it never does to me!

Anyway, I should really eat dinner but I can't decide what I'm hungry for! After more wandering around just looking at life, I decide I really must eat--it's almost 10pm for pete's sake! Cafe Le Petit Pont looks right out on Notre Dame and is full of people and it looks just fine by me. I quickly make friends with a Spanish woman sitting next to me. We're right by the piano and this insane British woman is completely wasted and keeps standing up to sing along. THEN she starts coming over to practically molest the piano player. We were almost falling out of our chairs laughing. We tried so hard to get a photo, but sorry, we were laughing too much to hold the cameras still!

All in all, Sunday was a blast. I still haven't been inside a museum, but who cares? I got picked up by Mauice Chevalier's reincarnated self at Ladurée and then made instant friends with a really cool chick from Spain. I have never been this cool in my entire life. Please, please, please let me run into one of those mean girls who made fun of me in high school right now!
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 11:51 AM
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Jenny........
Brilliant!
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 12:05 PM
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Thank you jenny!!
I am SO enjoying this and the Maurice Chevalier incarnation just cracked me up.
Yes, you are cool. I was not one of the mean girls, I was one of the victims of mean girls, so I know what you mean and yes, you are cool.
They are reading this but will never admit it
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 12:34 PM
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Jenny, did you meet up with Maurice? For dinner?
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 12:39 PM
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LOL Awesome read!
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 07:03 PM
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Thank you Scarlett!!! Man, I'm glad I'm all grown-up now. I was so upset when I couldn't go on the high school trip to France...if I'd only know how much more fun it is when you're 30...

Let me see now...

Monday I am woke up by the very nice lady who brings my breakfast each morning. I tried the buffet breakfast one morning and then realized that I don't eat enough to warrent a buffet and seriously, it's way cooler to have it brought to you. There is a supply of door signs on the desk and all I have to do is fill it out and check which time period I'd like it brought to me. Ahhh...this is the life. And oh my lordy--the sun is SHINING! Full on sunshine, blue sky and little fluffy clouds for the first time in days! There is no way I'm going to waste today on a museum--there will be other trips.

First up I have to get to Le Bon Marché so I take a stroll on over(window licking the whole way). This is my favorite department store in Paris--it has everything a girl needs. I buy sexy stockings on the ground floor for all my girlfriends who asked for "something French" (and a pair for myself). In the lingerie department I find another pair of these ridiculously pricey pajamas--a friend brought me a pair for Christmas and they are so soft and cozy and cute. It's silly--they're just man-style pajamas in really nice cotton, but the label says "Le Bon Marché Paris"! I have to have another pair. I go past the Tara Jarmon section and pet all the clothes I love again...

It's up on the top floor that I do the major damage. It's a whole floor of crafty goodness. For the cross-stitcher in me there are tons of kits from French brands and DMC has a lot on offer that you can't get in the states. I knit too and they stock Rowen, Phildar, Anny Blatt. There's fabric and needlepoint and ribbons and beads and buttons and...god I'm in heaven! A friend of mine has asked me to buy her about $100 worth of stitching goodies. So I get to shop with someone else's money! The only bad part of this is that I have to actually hand over the goods when I see her next. Shoot. Regarless I find a darling little sweater kit to knit for my new niece and a few other special things that *must* come home with me. I have to get out of here.

I wander back to the hotel (more window licking) to drop the bags off. I desperately need lunch, but my right knee is killing me and I'm out of Advil. Unbeknownst to me people on Fodor's are talking about topical Ibuprofen gel while I'm away and just what does the pharmacist give me? Ibuprofen gel. I take two Ibu. pills and rub some of the gel on my knee per her instructions. It's almost like magic. Wow. I mean--WOW. Add another European pharmacy drug to the shopping list. I celebrate with a cafe creme and a croque monsieur at Cafe de Flore while sitting in the sunshine.

I will not be sad that I'm leaving in 24 hours. I will not be sad that I'm leaving in 24 hours. I will not be sad...

I walk by the Seine in the sun. I stare up at Notre Dame and I wander down little streets that look interesting. I'm heading towards the Promenade Plantée and Viaduc des Arts. There is a project in NYC called the High Line (http://www.thehighline.org/) that I've been rooting for from the beginning. The Promenade Plantée is one of the community projects that has inspired this reimagining of urban space, and I want to see what might be in my city someday.

The Promenade Plantée is above the Viaduc des Arts or the Viaduc is under the Promenade depending on how you want to look at it. The Viaduc is home to a wonderful assortment of ateliers, shops and I saw at least one cafe. (I found a list: http://www.viaduc-des-arts.com/english/list.htm ) The first shop on the row is restorer of tapestries--there is a small sign in the window, they are looking for an apprentice. I'm on the lookout for the main shop of Le Bonheur des Dames--cross stitch heaven on earth. There is something on this street for everyone though. It's an amazing collection.

After shopping at Bonheur des Dames and snapping a few pictures I climb the stairs to the Promenade. I just kept thinking, "Plese, please let us get one of these!!!". And we are! Last week I woke up to the radio telling me that ground had been broken for the High Line project. April 10th to be exact. YES!

Time is ticking and I have a dinner date...

Oh yeah, did I mention that Jean called this morning? Yeah, he's picking me up at the hotel at 9pm.

It's funny I told my husband last night (we've been taking turns calling each other each night--afternoon for him) about this cute older man who bought me lunch and well, he said I could go have dinner with him. Huh. Who knew? (would have been nice for him to be a wee bit jealous though...sniff) Seriously though, you are not reading the diary of a mad, cheating woman! We make friends everywhere we go. Once we had some guy from Amsterdam sleep on the sofa--hubby met him on the internet. I told my husband to call the police if he doesn't hear from me before my plane is due to take off! I'll let him know if I'm leaving him for some older French guy fromm Provance...if he doesn't hear anything I've been kidnapped!

I have no idea where we're going for dinner. When he asked my preference I said, just surprise me. Jean is waiting in the lobby when I come downstairs and as promised the restaurant is near my hotel so we can walk. Les Bouquinistes. Score one for Jean. I really wish I'd taken notes on what the food was. I'm such a complete loser! I have failed the Fodor's squad! There was wine. I remember that! I can't decide so I tell him to just order something delicious for me because I think he's enjoying it and frankly, it's just cute. Jean decided that we needed to have almost everything on the darn menu--at least that's what it felt like to me. I remember veal. There was veal and it was yummy. Dessert was something chocolate with chocolate and some more chocolate. Conveniently the Seine and that gorgeous view of Notre Dame is right there outside the restaurant. Suave ol' Maurice/Jean doesn't even have to try for the romantic setting. The French have SUCH an unfair advantage, darn them. Alright, Maurice/Jean, I have to sleep now--I leave early for the airport. My sweetie insists on giving me his mobile phone number in case I run into any difficulties (tomorrow is going to be this National Day of Action business--gotta love that CPE...) and takes me back to my hotel. Bless his heart, the man even kisses my hand! Ahhh...I love the French.

Sadly Tuesday dawns. My breakfast arrives and I have that last cafe au lait while I pack and worry that I've gone over the weight limit (I have). The scrolling bar at the bottom of the morning news on the TV tells me the latest strike news. Darnit-all-to-heck the airport workers aren't striking.

You know the rest: check-out, in the cab, last glimpse of Notre-Dame, tacky souvenirs in the airport, bad movies on the plane and then I'm home.

I do have Jean's business card and he does have mine. My husband owes him dinner.
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 07:29 PM
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Okay, that last sentence sounds WAY more suggestive than it was meant too!!!!! LOL! Oh lordy, it's time to get off the computer...
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Old Apr 16th, 2006, 07:39 PM
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Lovely, just lovely ~
You are not a complete loser at all. We have been to Le Bouquinistes-I remember the view perfectly, the street, the Seine, who cares what was on the menu

Thank you again for such an entertaining and charming trip report.
I look forward to your next
Scarlett
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 06:25 AM
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Awww-thank you Scarlett! I hope I get to write another trip report. I completely empted my pathetic little bank account on this one! As I sit here at my miserable temp/contract job surrounded by my postcards from Paris I have to keep reminding myself that work=travel!

I was soundly berated by hubby for abusing the shared credit card too...oops. Yet he was talking yesterday about how if we buckle down and economize for a bit we could maybe go to Germany and the Alsace region for Christmas. We have a friend who goes each year to visit her brother and last year she found out that their next door neighbor has the same last name as my husband--Witzel! So they've all invited us over. Maybe I'll even try to pull some overtime here! Germany and Alsace '06!!!
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 06:51 AM
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Thanks for the report-very enjoyable. I hear you on the empty bank account after a trip. Sucks-but I'm sure you'll agree SO WORTH IT!!!
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 07:00 AM
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Jenny, your trip report was extremely pleasant, and I'm sure that you will return again and again. I live in Paris and love it, and in exactly the same way, I am happy to return again and again to Hanoi, Saigon, and Luang Prabang. We all need a place of which to dream.
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Old Apr 19th, 2006, 07:00 AM
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laartista--definately worth being flat broke!!!!

kerouac--oh wow, living in Paris. Now that is something I dream of all the time.

Hmmm...wonder if Maurice/Jean would fly me over for dinner...

I forgot to mention to you, tod, that I did indeed have dinner at L'Insulaire on rue Gregoire de Tours! What a great place to know about for that area. An affordable, tasty dinner!

And for the ladies...I know Paris lingerie shopping gets talked about a lot--I bought a few things at Galleries Lafayette from a line called Soleil Sucre (http://www.soleilsucre.com/) The entire line fits what all my girlfriends (and I) envision as "naughty" French lingerie! And it's so affordable. Makes gift giving possible, you know?
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Old Apr 19th, 2006, 08:20 AM
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Well I bet you've perked a lot of people up with that video.
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Old Apr 19th, 2006, 10:15 AM
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I do what I can...JUST KIDDING! good point though--don't look at it at work! It's like Victoria's secret, maybe worse. I linked to it more for the list of shops in Paris. Seriously, it's cute stuff.
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