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Trip report: Mostly Food Notes in Tuscany (with florence) and Bologna

Trip report: Mostly Food Notes in Tuscany (with florence) and Bologna

Mar 17th, 2007, 09:50 AM
  #41  
 
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Wonderful report ekscrunchy- thanks so much. We're also foodies and I'm going to look into the Maureen Fant book.
Does anyone know how to get hold of the English edition of the Gambero Rosso Guide- I think they have Engl guides for both Umbria and Tuscany.
I will also check out the slowtrav/slowfood site but have had trouble in the past finding what I need- maybe I'm searching incorrectly but aren't alot of recommendations in Italian?
I would buy a newish Gault Millau Italia written in any language if available but there doesn't seem to be one.
On our previous trip to Venice and Asolo I was disappointed with Eating in Italy by Willinger and Italy for the Gourmet Traveler by Plotkin. Our worst meal in Venice had just been featured in Bon Apetit magazine.
Chow! Venice by Essa and Edenbaum was our best resource.
Not sure if we agree with Michelin but will bring along. Many of their listings are so pricey..

First hand reports from Fodorites seem like a more reliable source.

Can anyone comment on eating vegetarian while in Tuscany? There's a lot of mention of bunnies, lard, liver, and wild boar.
Is it possible to find good fish or seafood in central or S Tuscany? How about near Pisa or Lucca? Any good lake fish from Lago Trasimeno which lies between Montepuliano and Perugia?
calville is offline  
Mar 17th, 2007, 10:55 AM
  #42  
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Calville, thanks for the compliment.

I was also a bit disappointed by a Fred Plotkin recommendation in Venice (Trattoria Anzolo Raffaelle). Although I am a big fan of his books, the Gourmet Guide is now a bit out of date. It makes excellent background reading, though, and I have found some good eating thorough his recommendations in various places. One of the best was a low-key seafood place in Nettuno, outside Rome.

I always double check Plotkin's recs with others, though, after spending what seemed like hours trying to track down Il Pellicano, Via dei Gigli d'Oro, (p. 476) on a trip to Rome a few years ago. I was convinced that the "resident genius" old cook was shuffling around in her bedroom slippers, waiting for me if I could just find that doorway hidden on that dark street.....

The Willinger book is pretty good but there is not much there as far as restaurants that you do not read elsewhere; I have never taken it with me but use it once in a while to back up a place I may have read about elsewhere.

The Fant book is good; it is also a few years old but it has a good food glossary, is easy to carry, and has a number of good recommendations in the three cities that she covers.

I have heard that the SlowFood Osterie book will be published in English this spring. Not sure about Gambero Rosso and in fact, I have never used their food books.

I have never seen Chow Venice but would like to look at it for my next trip to that city.

I don't think Gault Millau has any books on Italy in English, but I could be wrong..I have never seen one; I used to like them a lot for France, though.

Would you mind teling us where you had the diappointing meal in a Bon Appetit recommended place? Honestly many of those magazines list the most obvious places....you never know, though, right?

And we have our own Venetian/Roman expert right here in Don Franco, so for those cities we don't really have to look much further!





ekscrunchy is offline  
Mar 17th, 2007, 11:16 AM
  #43  
 
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Jan 2004 Bon Appetit listed 3 restaurants in Venice (I don't subscribe- a friend gave it to me just as we were leaving).
We only tried one and thought it was awful: Alle Testiere in Castello.

I will be on the look out for the Slow Food Osterie book. Thank you!

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Mar 17th, 2007, 01:49 PM
  #44  
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You're welcome and happy eating!
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Mar 18th, 2007, 07:53 AM
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May 10th, 2007, 02:07 PM
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May 11th, 2007, 06:22 AM
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Jun 28th, 2007, 08:05 AM
  #48  
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meant to top THIS for Gard Karlsen!
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Aug 16th, 2007, 07:10 PM
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Aug 17th, 2007, 09:40 AM
  #50  
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topping for recent poster with query on eating in Florence
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Aug 23rd, 2007, 10:59 AM
  #51  
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Mar 30th, 2008, 07:32 PM
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bookmarking, thanks!
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Aug 14th, 2008, 04:22 AM
  #53  
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I just read through this when I linked it for another poster. I should add a postscript which mentions that, about 11 months after our return to the US, we received a ticket in the mail for entering a restricted zone upon entering the city of Florence with a rental car. So be careful!
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Aug 25th, 2008, 11:19 AM
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Oct 3rd, 2008, 10:19 AM
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Jul 23rd, 2009, 02:20 PM
  #56  
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For LBrawer, regarding eating in Florence (remember this report is a few years old)
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Jul 23rd, 2009, 05:06 PM
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Yes-- I had read this and have read LOTS about Nerbone. Its on myy list already. I believe I'm also familiar with Il Guscio (but maybe it was from this very trip report)
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Jul 24th, 2009, 04:58 AM
  #58  
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LB: I made a couple of comments on the Naples thread..one additional place that I have liked in the past (I did not eat on it during this trip so it is not in the report above) is Alla Vecchia Bettola, near Piazza Tasso. It is a bit off the tourist track (about 20 minutes walk south of the river if I am remembering correctly); cash only; same owners at Nerbone.

You asked about Camillo on the other thread; I've had some good meals there and I do not think you can go too far wrong, although like the other places in that area, it draws lots of tourists.

My sister just returned from a family visit to Florence and if she has any "insider" tips I will post them here..
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Jul 24th, 2009, 07:19 AM
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Thanks EKS-- love to hear them. Do you know that I'm so confused right this second, I had to really stop and think--- Piazza Tasso-- hmm- Rome??? Florence?
I'm losing it.
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Jul 24th, 2009, 11:44 AM
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I am the SAME way when planning a trip! In fact just this minute I am at moderate-high anxiety level just thinking about booking flights for a trip in March 2010!

Piazza Tasso in Florence.

Take a look at Maureen Fant's site for Rome restaurant info. She is a well-known food writer and classicist who lives there and is very active on Chowhound. You can also look there for her Rome restaurant tips. You probably already know this, though!
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