Trip Report: Leon
 

Just got back Spain. After a few days in the north, we did a long day's drive from Bilbao to Leon. We drove along the Atlantic "Costa Verde" to Gijon, then headed south through the mountains into Leon. The scenery along the drive was spectacular. This part of Spain is much more beautiful than the overdeveloped Costa del Sol. We particularly liked the contrast of the snow capped mountains on one side and the beautiful coast on the other. I only wish we'd had another day sp we could have stopped more along the way.

Leon was amazing. We stayed at the Parador in the new wing. It is truly the most beautiful hotel I've ever had the pleasure of staying in. The new wing, while ugly from the outside, was very nice and blends well with the rest of the building when you are inside. We also appreciated the balconies (definitely request a courtyard/river view). As with all paradors, the service was great. Finally, the facade of the parador is stunning. We spent nearly an hour studying the plataresque details.

Our other major site in Leon was the cathedral. We got there about noon which was perfect. I have never seen anything like it. It is a sea of stained glass. There are so many windows and so little stone, it is amazing the roof can stand. We walked around in stunned silence for about an hour looking at each window. Seeing it in full sun was spectacular. I've read that the cathedral is sometimes lit from the inside at night. I would love to return to Leon to see this.

Finally, we spent a couple of hours tapas hopping in the Barrio Humedo. Really liked the concentration of places in this small, pedestrian area of the old town. Great combination of traditional places along side more modern, up scale, ones. We were blown away by the prices as well. In one place, three glasses of red with small tapas cost a total of 1.80E. How can you beat that?

Really wish we had more than one night to spend in Leon. We will certainly return. If anyone has details on when the cathedral is lit from the inside, PLEASE post a reply.

-- Chd

Did you get to the Guggenheim Museum?
It's amazing on the approach.

Thanks for sharing. Brings back memories.

I am not sure when the lights are on in the Cathedral.

Great report too.

My Best,
Oaktown Traveler

Hi ChadL

Thanks for your report. My husband and I have reservations at the Parador for 2 nts. in July. Could you tell me if you had a "standard" room in the new wing? Could you comment on the size of the room? Did you have dinner in the Parador restaurant? Thanks for any comments!

cruiseluv,

We had a standard room in the extension. I believe that all of the rooms in the extension are standard, and all of the rooms in the historic wing are deluxe or suites. Maribel would know for sure.

The room is the size of a large standard room in a US hotel. Plenty of room to move around w/ a king size bed, a desk, two chairs and a small table. The balcony was also good sized.

The furnishings are very nice. Hardwood floors, marble baths, and lots of heavy Castillian wood trim. Too bad we didn't notice the "silent butler" shoe shine service until checkout.

Again, be sure to request the courtyard/river view at or before checkin. The view from the other side appeared to be of the parking lot.

-- Chad

Chad,

Thank You for your response

I enjoyed your trip report and am disappointed our itinerary doesn't include time for Leon, because your report makes the area sound tempting! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks ChadL. On my next trip to Spain, I intend to explore this region.

In the new wing of San Marcos you can find some suites. Anyway, these special rooms are not like the ones in the old section.

The best ones are placed in third floor of the old wing, facing San Marcos Square: remember those balconies in the fachade, and it is unique experience to be in one of them, specially in the Royal Room (the balcony over the main entrance), wich is about 400 EUR if I remember.

ChadL,

With respect to the location of your room in the annex, could you clarify if it had a view to both, the courtyard and river? Thanks!

Cruiseluv, here's a reply, a year late. The view is to both the courtyard and the river. But, since you've already been, I'm sure you knew that. Maybe someone else will benefit from my answer...

I just booked a room in the Parador for 2 nights in May. Didn't realize your post was from 2004, but appreciate the information. Will definately check out the cathedral.

Did you (or anyone) eat at the Parador?

We did several paradors in 2002. Our favorite both as a hotel and as a restaurant was at Leon. Really nice.
Wonderful food.

Hi Chad!

Thanks for responding( even if late). I was very thankful for your advice re the room in the Leon parador since it worked very well for us.
With regards to your q re when is the cathedral lit from the inside, we were told is every night at midnight. One of the 2 nights we were in Leon we went to the cathedral shortly before midnight and , sure enough! First they turn off most of the lights on the plaza /area surrounding the cathedral. Then, one area inside the cathedral at a time, the lights inside are lit . The view of those colored windows all lit up from the inside is magnificent!

Hi Artlover,

We had dinner one night at the Parador resturant and really enjoyed it. It's a beautiful room and the food was great too. The other night in Leon ( the night we stayed out until midnight to see the cathedral) we had dinner in Posada Regia which I also highly recommend. Enjoy!

Chad-- did you visited the Royal Pantheon? I was blown away by the well preserved frescoes. Glad to hear La Posada Regia still offering top quality service. I loved Leon, can't wait to go back!!

Hi Viajero,

You're right about the frescoes in the Royal pantheon. They were outstanding!

Thanks Patrick and cruiseluv about the food at the Parador. The room looks amazing in their website and now it's good to know the food is good too.

Fodorites are great!

We also stayed at the Leon Parador and found it fabulous. We had what I beleive was a standard room in the old part with a view of the river and what I think is called a french balcony (french doors opened into the room so you could sit and enjoy the view but there was no balcony to step out onto.) Room was generous in size and beautifully furnished. We also had dinner and it was great.

And for the ultimate compliment to a hotel-----when we returned home I realized I had lost a ring and was fairly sure it was at the Leon parador since I knew I had worn it to dinner. Not a financially valuable ring but great sentimental value as it belonged to my mother-in-law and was made from her first weddding band. I emailed the Parador without much hope. They responded promptly saying they had my ring and within a week it was in my mailbox!!!