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Trip Report: Istanbul and Cappadocia with my Dad

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Trip Report: Istanbul and Cappadocia with my Dad

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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 01:51 AM
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Trip Report: Istanbul and Cappadocia with my Dad

This trip was a part of my Dad's visit to me in Barcelona. We had a wonderful time, and both consider Turkey a must-see. Here's why:

Dec. 4th: We arrived in Istanbul in the late afternoon and were met at the airport by a driver from our hotel, Naz Wooden House, in Sultanahmet. I recommend the hotel to anyone, though the Blue Room's sea views and proximity to the tram tracks make it not worth the higher price. If you pay cash, you can negotiate down. That is true throughout Turkey.

After our nap we took a walk around our neighborhood and stopped at Köftecisi for soup, kebabs and tea for about 5€ per person total. Excellent meat! After dinner, Dad was cranky and tired, so I suggested we take a hammam (Turkish Bath). The front desk at Naz arranged for a driver to pick us up and take us to Suleymaniye Hammam. Now, this place is co-ed, which is not what I am used to from Moroccan hammams, and it was pretty clear that they thought my dad and I were a couple. That idea dispelled, we wrapped ourselves in plaid cloth sarongs and went in where we spent about an hour heating up and sweating before two really attractive guys in sarongs (think slave from Cleopatra) came in and laid us out on hot marble slabs and massaged us really vigorously while scrubbing off our long trip.

The driver took us back and the grand total was 40€. I, however, did not like the co-ed part.

5/12: Caught an early morning flight on Onur air to Kayseri where a representative of Cappadocia Tours (cappadociatours.com) met us and took us to our amazing cave hotel (Gamirasu. . . highly recommend it!) where we left our bags, had sandwiches, and headed off to the Ihlara Valley with our guide, the energetic-bordering-on-over-zealous Ramzi. We had lunch (river trout!) and then took a 4 km hike through the valley, which was really white and brown as everything was dead. It was freezing cold and kind of cloudy, but still fun. On the way home we stopped and watched women preparing bread in a huge oven. It was delicious!

After that we hit the hotel for rest and I continued to read Auster's "The Brooklyn Follies" which is a fun read, but a narrative let-down.

Dinner at Gamirasu is served in courses and is very traditional Turkish. The décor of the dining room also invites lounging and enjoying your meal.

6/12: we woke up at 5 a.m. to make our 6 a.m. hot air balloon ride, which was an exceptional experience. The sensation of being up there is unreal, and the landscape is truly breathtaking. They rightfully call it "lunar."

Luckily, we got back to Gamirasu before breakfast was over and got to enjoy their amazing spread of fresh fruit, chocolate, eggs, cheeses, olives, yogurt, jam, coffee, tea and juices. Then we set off for some more time with Ramzi, who says things like "Dear friends, please see!" and "Can you believe it? The Ottomans had the first elevators, not America!"

We put in a full day, visiting an underground city (too amazing to describe), ate manti (Turkish ravioli), hit a leather store (nothing for me, though), then hiked up some terrain near Pigeon Valley, saw the St. Simon cave monastery (climb up to the top!) and visited a ceramics workshop where my Dad went nuts and bought a ton of presents. We had dinner with two people from our group, and the man has a really useful website on Istanbul, and he himself is a very good travel agent. Hakan Hacibekiroglu, istanbullife.org

7/12: The following day we visited Goreme Open Air Museum (a must-see monastery with great frescos). Lunch was at an excellent brochette restaurant where they brought out mezze of salad, dolmas, baba ganough, yogurt, acili, etc, followed by brochettes of some of the best lamb I have had. Ramzi takes all his tours there and it is worth using him just for that. We saw another leather shop where my Dad bought a jacket, then we pressed on to another Valley which I could not really appreciate thanks to insanely bad diarrhea. Yes, Turkey has its ups and downs.

On the way to the airport we stopped at Carpedocia and after an impressive presentation of their stuff, my dad purchased a very nice silk on silk rug for his mother and a small mat for me, which I love.

We caught a flight back to Istanbul and were delighted to be back at Naz where we plopped down our bags and ourselves, eating street food (rolled sandwiches) for dinner, then collapsing into bed.

8/12: Marta (woman from the couple on our tour) and I had planned to meeet at 11, and we did, taking my Dad over to the Spice Bazaar, a visit he had to cut short thanks to, indeed, diarrhea. Marta and I, however, stayed and shopped, and I came out with a beautiful silk embroidered jacket (thank you, Yedat at Cennet. . . best scarves in the bazaar!), a scarf, and some random food items.

From there we crossed the bridge (check out the fishermen!) and stopped at Sebo Börek (the one on the water) for tea and Baklava. I had to get back by 5, so we parted, promising to get together for a hammam that night, then have dinner and meet up with the boys (her boyfriend and a friend of his) for a night clubbing, which is exactly what we did.

Before hitting the hammam, though, my dad took me to a leather shop to see coats and I decided to have one made for me. The shop: Galeri Gurur by Zafer (Amiral Tafdil Sokak Nš: 30, Sultanahmet (0212) 458 46 66 67, was awesome and my coat is a beautiful, black, 3/4 length slick, stylish cut of class! I really love it and they were quite generous with the negotiations, especially in cash.

Our Hammam was a Cimberlitas and was my favorite of the trip. Then Dad and I ate at Pasha (a nice restaurant with delicious food), and he left me with Marta, Hakan and Erran. We hit a zone I can't remember the name of, and settled on Barici, a club with great music and a random clientele. We got a table right by one occupied by a couple that was quite strange: every now and then, with no motivation from the boyfriend, the girlfriend would jump up and start belly dancing. They were pretty drunk, as were the people on the dance floor who were all (guys included) belly dancing. After a few drinks, we all joined in and it was a great night even if I couldn't lip sync.

9/12: We got up early and met Marta to see the Blue Mosque and the Hippodrome, then up Galeri Kayseri book store where I bought "Snow" by Orhan Pamuk, another example of narrative never quite taking off, but always being just on the verge. After that my Dad and I decided to hit the Grand Bazaar, where a guy tried to sell me earrings for 750€ and some carpet vendor told my Dad he had a beautiful wife. He cracked up when we corrected him. Purchases were meager, so I decided to take him back to the spice Bazaar where Yedat sold us some more scarves and garments. The Grand Bazaar was just not my thing at all.

We were both feeling better after our bouts with the big D, so we decided to go out to dinner at Okyanus, the best fish place of our trip. The mezze were incredible and the actual fish, well, it could not have been better. The area was quite touristy but I really liked it and wanted to go back. It is in Kumkapi (Çapariz Sokak 41/43) and just fantastic.

Dad's luck, however, had run out, and we had to high-tail it back to the hotel.

10/12: our last full day, and I wanted to start at the Ayasofya (Hagia Sofia), one of my goal places to see. It was a wonderful visit, but Dad cut out early, and after I asked one of the security guards where the bathroom was, he decided to be my tour guide and told me all kinds of stuff, most of which is of dubious origin.

At 1:30 a van picked us up for our Bosphorous cruise, which was definitely a highlight of the trip, though it was freezing. Luckily, I had the leather coat and hardly noticed. The cruise was your basic day outing, but it ended with a van ride up to Pierre Loti (on the way we passed some really bad shacks and the guide said "poor people live here&quot for tea and cookies as night fell. From there we returned to Sultanahmet and though my dad wanted to return to Pasha, I convinced him that Baran 2 on Divanyolu (just down from Pasha) would be better. It is sort of fast foodie in that you go in and choose from buffet (get a small plate, as the big ones are way too big) of Turkish foods (stuffed peppers, lamb sautee, etc), then take it to your table. The food is delicious, and their fresh squeezed Pomegranate juice is out of this world.

Dad went home and I stayed wandering around, running into a co-worker (neither knew the other was there), and then heading to the Cagaloglu Hammam with 2 of the ladies from the day's Bosphorous cruise. Cagaloglu is the most famous of the Turkish Hammams (in 1,000 Places to see before you die) and is overrated. I mean, yes, they got me clean and relaxed, but it was just not that fabulous. Cimberlitas was better. Both of those are single-sex.

11/12: as our last day was really only a half day, I got up early and headed out to buy a jacket I had seen on a ton of Turkish women, but in no stores. I had to penetrate deep into Sultanhamam, a very Turkish/no tourist neighborhood, and finally found what I was looking for at Firat Tesettür (Is Merkezi nš 10), which took a lot of mimicry and confusion.

Dad and I sat down to our last lunch washed down with Cherry juice at the Magnaura Café on Akbiyik Caddesi nš 27 (Sultanahmet). It was my favorite restaurant-meal of the trip and I wish we had discovered it before.

Other than a few hours at the airport with my Catalán teacher (did not know she was there, either), nothing noteworthy happened.

In thinking back on it, going to Turkey has always been high on my list and I can understand why. Traveling there when temperatures are like Siberia is not ideal and I think made it impossible for me to rave so much about Cappadocia (though it was sepctacular, indeed), which was freezing the whole time, but Istanbul is a city to see: a vibrant port full of amazing religious architecture, great people, delicious food and never a dull moment.

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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 04:58 AM
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Lovely report laclaire... I haven't been to Turkey for 12 years but still remember the big D!!
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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 06:39 AM
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Nice report laclaire. We don't see too much about nightlife.

Got me worried with this Big D stuff. Bad luck at a restaurant or is it a more general concern?

 
Old Jan 10th, 2007, 07:34 AM
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Well, as far as my dad and I are aware, we were the ones who got it and no one else. Then again, we were not about to ask around. I don't know what it was from, but it is the first time that has happened to me abroad. I have no idea where we got it. . . and probably never will.
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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 07:45 AM
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Diarrhoea is common in Turkey (at least for tourists).
I know that I got it from drinking the local water. I made the mistake of accepting a cold lemon tea from a carpet salesman. He looked at me with surprise when I said cold rather than hot and it wasn't until after I'd sipped it that it dawned on me that the hot tea would have been safely boiled.
The rest of the family escaped unscathed but I was sick for at least 2 days!
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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 06:10 PM
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laclaire, thx for your trip report. I'm returning to Turkey after 10 yrs, albeit on a tour, but am spending an extra 2 days in Istanbul. I definitely did not get enough on my first tour.

We do need a hotel for 2 nights after our tour ends and I reviewed quite a few so we're still deciding. As far as I can tell the Sultanahmet area is the best.

Also, I really want to go to a hammam which I didn't do the last time so appreciate your comments.

Personally, I loved going into the Grand Bazaar in spite of the hawkers and am looking forward to more time there. Did you just feel it was too much? Too many pushy salespeople?
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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 06:46 PM
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LaClaire:

Hooray!!! Someone from this Forum finally mentioned The Pierre Loti Cafe!!
I'm so happy you went there, LaClaire. I've directed numerous people to be sure to go there, but I can't recall anyone who actually did. I Hope you were there at "Call to Prayer" around 5 pm...with all the calls coming in from around the city. Dramatic and loverly at the same time.

Stu T.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 04:42 AM
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Laclaire,

Great report! I am going to Turkey at the end of September and the information in your report will come in handy!

Thanks for posting!
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 06:55 AM
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Nancy- the Turks at the Grand Bazaar ain't got nothin' on the Moroccans in Marrakech, so I really wasn't bothered. My Dad, however, kept returning the hellos and we kept getting taken to tea. Finally I had to say that my bladder would not take his pleasantries and he stopped. The Grand Bazaar is just a giant indoor mall with teeny tiny stores. I found little charm, and most of what I bought there were little gifts for friends. . . the special stuff was just not there. I preferred the Spice Bazaar. Oh, and per your hotel, go Sultanahmet and if you can get something behind the Blue Mosque (there was one called the Apricot House that looked really nice), I would do so. It is really quiet and nice at night, and everything is close.

tower- We were there at 5 on the dot and when the prayer calls started coming in, it was really awesome. Our guide was rushing us a bit, but we got to sit and have tea. I think it would have been a pain to get to, though, had I been driving.

LowCountryRider: everyone raves about Turkey in September, and I imagine that Cappadocia is amazing. Are you a biker? I am thinking your name means "Netherland Rider". . . anyways, the place is just right for biking, especially if you like to sleep out. You are welcome to camp (no fires) in any of the caves you see that are not a part of a national park (very well designated), and I was already envisioning how we would start in Goreme and go to Nevsehir, camping on the way. . . I love that stuff.

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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 07:21 AM
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laclaire,
Thank you for your post. I have been trying to decide between Cappadocia Tours and renting a car and doing it on our own. We are a family of four so there would definitely be a cost difference. Did you think it enhanced your experience that much? Also do you know the name of the restaurant you went to after the Open Air Market? Thanks.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 07:34 AM
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Hi Laclaire...

I have been known to ride a bike, but I am not what one would consider a "hard core" biker.

My screen name is actually LowCountry Islander, because I live in an area in coastal South Carolina...what we here affectionately call the South Carolina Low Country.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 07:44 AM
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LaClaire...know what you mean by getting to Pierre Loti...cabb-ed it and walked down the trail to hail another cab on return (by the way, I'm sure you known that Loti (nee Louis Viaud)was a French travelwriter/journalist/sailor who wrote novels around his visits to Constantinople and endeared himself to the local populace..hence, the Pierre Loti Cafe).

MillieBiz...for four, rent a car at the airport in Kayseri...easy driving, little traffic...a good map will help you see all the major sights...we did it with no difficulty..and in fact drove from Capaddocia to Antalya, Pamukkale, Kusadesi, and Bodrum..marvelous way to do it..plenty of petrol stations, good signage and very helpful locals.

Stu T.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 09:36 AM
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Tower,
We will be arriving in Cappadocia via the overnight bus from Antalya. Do you have a closer recommendation to rent a car?
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 10:20 AM
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Cappadocia is definitely doable without a guide, but Cappadocia tours did a great job with us, so I recommend them to anyone. Get Ramzi ghe guide, though, as he is the best, if a little overzealous at times.

If you are going without a guide, rent kar in Keyseri and drive it. You can certainly do it all on your own, and the driving will be nice. I scored a car air freshener from the restaurant, so here is the info:
Adana Ocakbasi
Aziz Ustanin Yeri
Avanos- NEVSEHIR
0384 511 70 11
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 11:34 AM
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Millie...yes, on another visit I rented in Urgup, a lively little town where Esbelli Pansyion is located...Europcar..worked out very well. Why not rent in Antalya (big city) and take the drive to Cappadocia.
Get to see the lake district if you wish..Lake Ergidir is quite nice..and Konya is a good-sized city for overnight.

Stu T.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 11:45 AM
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laclaire,
Thank you for the restaurant information. I will find it!
tower,
We are staying at Esbelli so that is perfect. My DH refuses to drive so it will be up to me. Especially since we watched a travel video and the narrator said Turkey had a huge number of traffic accidents. I think I will be fine tooling around in Cappadocia but am extremely reluctant to drive any longer than I need to.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 03:43 PM
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Nobody should be afraid to drive in Turkey, especially Cappadocia. We were there during the eclipse this past spring and it was wonderfull. We rented in Ankara and drove to Urgup staying at Esbelli. Spent several days in the area and then drove up to Hattusas, Safranbolu, and the Black Sea. The only problems driving are in the big cities - Ankara. Otherwise just pay attention and have a ball. Between towns its almost all high-speed freeway that would be the envy of my home state of Oregon. If heading to Istanbul a great tip is to return the car in Ankara (at the airport to avoid the inner-city traffic) then taxi to the train station and take the overnight train to Istanbul. A sleeper car for two with dinner will cost less than $80 and its quite luxurious.
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Old Jan 11th, 2007, 06:14 PM
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chinook67,
I will be doing well just to drive in Cappadocia which I think I am willing to do. How was Esbelli? Do you have restaurant recommendations or must dos for the area?
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Old Jan 12th, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Great trip report thank you....Seems altough Cappadocia was cold all worked out.
Now its is sunny, about 5C, white at the mountains and side of the roads, beautiful.

Driving in Turkey generally speaking is easy. Petrol is expensive though. As long as yo avoid night driving you will be fine. We are used to night driving and its cons but a foreigner should not attemp to learn these cons !

Yes Cappadocia is doable with a map and a guide book. Self drive is fine. However at least 1 day organized tour with a guide will change the perspective and understanding. You learn more and get used to the environment quicker. I always suggest this and also allow yourselves at least 3 days for Cappadocia.

Happy travelling,
Murat

Restaurnat suggestins: Somine, A'Laturca, Old Greek House, Dayinin Yeri yummy
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Old Jan 12th, 2007, 08:35 AM
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Thank you.
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