Trip Report. Franken in December
Dec 9th, 2008, 09:37 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trip Report. Franken in December
We have just returned from a 7 day tour of Franken (Franconia). We flew from Denver into Frankfurt am Main with Lufthansa.
We caught an ICE/RB train connection via Hanau to Aschaffenburg. The RB (regional bahn) portion of route coincided with the completion of school for the day and the train became a "school bus". It made for a cheerful, noise leg of the trip.
We had reservations at the Hotel Cafe Fischer a few blocks from the train station. A nice business hotel: older rooms, remodeled baths, good breakfast. We also had soup there for lunc.
Aschaffenburg is an attractive old town that would be a major historical tourist attraction in America but receives little recognition in Germany as it has so much competition. You are welcome to look at our photos:
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...33527537_r4hqD
We ate at Uwe's Bistro, which has a typical German menu. We had Jaegerschnitzel with a very good dinner salad. Uwe spoke some English but we tried to keep the language German with only a few blunders. Good experience for our first night in Germany.
The Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) was tiny. Every other stand around the perimeter sold Glühwein (hot spiced wine). Christmas markets are always more romantic under the influence.
We caught an ICE/RB train connection via Hanau to Aschaffenburg. The RB (regional bahn) portion of route coincided with the completion of school for the day and the train became a "school bus". It made for a cheerful, noise leg of the trip.
We had reservations at the Hotel Cafe Fischer a few blocks from the train station. A nice business hotel: older rooms, remodeled baths, good breakfast. We also had soup there for lunc.
Aschaffenburg is an attractive old town that would be a major historical tourist attraction in America but receives little recognition in Germany as it has so much competition. You are welcome to look at our photos:
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...33527537_r4hqD
We ate at Uwe's Bistro, which has a typical German menu. We had Jaegerschnitzel with a very good dinner salad. Uwe spoke some English but we tried to keep the language German with only a few blunders. Good experience for our first night in Germany.
The Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) was tiny. Every other stand around the perimeter sold Glühwein (hot spiced wine). Christmas markets are always more romantic under the influence.
Dec 9th, 2008, 11:30 AM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The next day, everything ran late. First, we ran late. After climbing into bed at 7:30 PM the night before, we assumed that we would be up early to catch a 9:17 connection from Aschaffenburg to Bamberg. Wrong. We slept more than 12 hours.
We were traveling via Würzburg and Schweinfurt. Every train that we caught left late. We left Würzburg 6 minutes late with only 5 minutes grace at Schweinfurt, but then the Schweinfurt connection was 12 minutes late. We were cursed or blessed.
We arrived in Bamberg with my wife suffering from migraine and took a taxi to the Molitor Altstadthotel. The driver pointed out major sights including his favorite brewery just across the alleyway from our hotel, the Brauerei Gaststätte Klosterbräu. We checked in and found that they had given us the handicap room. Not terrible but a little inconvenient.
I took a walk while my wife slept and then we visited the Weihnachtsmarkt. The Weihnachtsmarkt was a little bigger than Aschaffenburg but ... Well it is time to admit that I have never cared much for Christmas Markets. Still, there are Bratwursts, Mandeln (roasted almonds) and Glühwein.
We ate supper at the Klozterbräu. It is an old fashion Gaststätte. We share a table with a couple that were playing backgammon and owned a monster black dog, who was very well behaved. Thank God. The food was fair, the beer terrific.
We woke the next morning to sunshine, a sure sign of coming precipitation. Just after breakfast it started snowing and did not let up all day. It was luckily not cold enough to stick. Less I fail to mention it, it rained or snowed every day and the temps were usually in the 30's F.
We visited the Dom. There is carved grave cover of Emperor Heinrich II and Empress Cunigunde by Riemanschneider but the angle from which you can view is terrible. (BTW, Henry and Connie chose not to consummate their marriage???) The famous "Bamberger Reiter" is a mystery to history and to me. I have read that many see the Reiter (rider) as epitomizing Germany. It is quite unlike any other piece of German art that I have seen and do not particularily appreciate it. In the Dom, there is also a carved depiction of the Pope buried in Bamberg, done in red stone, that I quite liked. It gets no mention in the guide books. I am out of step.
The Rathaus was appealing as was the "Little Venice" riverfront, even in the snow. Most appealing to me in Bamberg were the alleyways. Like Rothenburg, I think that the town itself is the main attraction in Bamberg. Pictures:
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...33579617_FpWtT
The second night we had a very good meal in the backroom of Scheiner's Gasthof. I made a mistake and left my day pack with camera there. When I discovered the loss the next morning, we went back to find the door ajar but only the cook there. We got a chance to use our German. She knew nothing of the lost pack but helped us search the place. As we were leaving, my wife spotted the shoulder strap behind some boxes in the corner. It saved us a lot of anxiety and a delayed departure. It also reinforced my thoughts about basic honesty in Germany.
We were traveling via Würzburg and Schweinfurt. Every train that we caught left late. We left Würzburg 6 minutes late with only 5 minutes grace at Schweinfurt, but then the Schweinfurt connection was 12 minutes late. We were cursed or blessed.
We arrived in Bamberg with my wife suffering from migraine and took a taxi to the Molitor Altstadthotel. The driver pointed out major sights including his favorite brewery just across the alleyway from our hotel, the Brauerei Gaststätte Klosterbräu. We checked in and found that they had given us the handicap room. Not terrible but a little inconvenient.
I took a walk while my wife slept and then we visited the Weihnachtsmarkt. The Weihnachtsmarkt was a little bigger than Aschaffenburg but ... Well it is time to admit that I have never cared much for Christmas Markets. Still, there are Bratwursts, Mandeln (roasted almonds) and Glühwein.
We ate supper at the Klozterbräu. It is an old fashion Gaststätte. We share a table with a couple that were playing backgammon and owned a monster black dog, who was very well behaved. Thank God. The food was fair, the beer terrific.
We woke the next morning to sunshine, a sure sign of coming precipitation. Just after breakfast it started snowing and did not let up all day. It was luckily not cold enough to stick. Less I fail to mention it, it rained or snowed every day and the temps were usually in the 30's F.
We visited the Dom. There is carved grave cover of Emperor Heinrich II and Empress Cunigunde by Riemanschneider but the angle from which you can view is terrible. (BTW, Henry and Connie chose not to consummate their marriage???) The famous "Bamberger Reiter" is a mystery to history and to me. I have read that many see the Reiter (rider) as epitomizing Germany. It is quite unlike any other piece of German art that I have seen and do not particularily appreciate it. In the Dom, there is also a carved depiction of the Pope buried in Bamberg, done in red stone, that I quite liked. It gets no mention in the guide books. I am out of step.
The Rathaus was appealing as was the "Little Venice" riverfront, even in the snow. Most appealing to me in Bamberg were the alleyways. Like Rothenburg, I think that the town itself is the main attraction in Bamberg. Pictures:
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...33579617_FpWtT
The second night we had a very good meal in the backroom of Scheiner's Gasthof. I made a mistake and left my day pack with camera there. When I discovered the loss the next morning, we went back to find the door ajar but only the cook there. We got a chance to use our German. She knew nothing of the lost pack but helped us search the place. As we were leaving, my wife spotted the shoulder strap behind some boxes in the corner. It saved us a lot of anxiety and a delayed departure. It also reinforced my thoughts about basic honesty in Germany.
Dec 9th, 2008, 06:22 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for your kind remarks.
The next leg of our travels was from Bamberg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Our train connections were on-time and smooth. Five nuns joined the train for part of the way. They were cheerful and friendly travel companions, nodding towards us and exchanging a few pleasantries.
Rothenburg converts itself into a Christmas Market. Almost every store carries Christmas items. There were a lot of tourists right around sundown for the Weihnachtsmarkt but it was not very crowded otherwise.
It rained the first night causing the cobblestones to reflect the Christmas lights. The small town was quite attractive. The days were gray by comparison but we still enjoyed ourselves.
We stayed at the Gasthof Goldener Greifen and ate our first night's supper there. They serve plain, common dishes prepared well. We shared our table with a Japanese (I think) female tourist.
The next night we ate at the Goldenes Lamm. Only fair and more expensive. The last few years we have tried a couple other restaurants in Rothenburg: the Cafe at Hotel Gerber (not bad) and the Altfrankisches Weinstube (not great for us). None of the places have been really expensive.
My wife really likes small Christmas and tourist items. You can never have too many manger scenes. Rothenburg is made for her. As long as we stop occasionally for a cup of tea and a Mandelhörnchen, I am a willing partner. I wear a small dayback and she fills it.
I took a few pictures along the way and we visited the Reichsstadtmuseum so I might look at the 19th Century paintings of Rothenburg.
Rothenburg is a tourist trap but one that we consistently enjoy. Our pictures:
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...33647595_SGBvs
The next leg of our travels was from Bamberg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Our train connections were on-time and smooth. Five nuns joined the train for part of the way. They were cheerful and friendly travel companions, nodding towards us and exchanging a few pleasantries.
Rothenburg converts itself into a Christmas Market. Almost every store carries Christmas items. There were a lot of tourists right around sundown for the Weihnachtsmarkt but it was not very crowded otherwise.
It rained the first night causing the cobblestones to reflect the Christmas lights. The small town was quite attractive. The days were gray by comparison but we still enjoyed ourselves.
We stayed at the Gasthof Goldener Greifen and ate our first night's supper there. They serve plain, common dishes prepared well. We shared our table with a Japanese (I think) female tourist.
The next night we ate at the Goldenes Lamm. Only fair and more expensive. The last few years we have tried a couple other restaurants in Rothenburg: the Cafe at Hotel Gerber (not bad) and the Altfrankisches Weinstube (not great for us). None of the places have been really expensive.
My wife really likes small Christmas and tourist items. You can never have too many manger scenes. Rothenburg is made for her. As long as we stop occasionally for a cup of tea and a Mandelhörnchen, I am a willing partner. I wear a small dayback and she fills it.
I took a few pictures along the way and we visited the Reichsstadtmuseum so I might look at the 19th Century paintings of Rothenburg.
Rothenburg is a tourist trap but one that we consistently enjoy. Our pictures:
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...33647595_SGBvs
Dec 10th, 2008, 02:27 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dutch,
I went to my favorite Stehecafe in Rothenburg. Before we got in the door they were offering us Schneeballen. We declined and I went to counter to ask for my favorite, Mandelhörnchen. They did not offer it any longer, but a counter full of Schneeballen. The Cafe that I showed a picture of did offer Mandelhörnchen in addition to the always present "snow balls". Where will the insanity stop? ;<
I went to my favorite Stehecafe in Rothenburg. Before we got in the door they were offering us Schneeballen. We declined and I went to counter to ask for my favorite, Mandelhörnchen. They did not offer it any longer, but a counter full of Schneeballen. The Cafe that I showed a picture of did offer Mandelhörnchen in addition to the always present "snow balls". Where will the insanity stop? ;<
Dec 10th, 2008, 11:12 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We left Rothenburg ob der Tauber for a short train trip to Würzburg. We traveled along the Main River where I used to take Sunday drives when I was assigned to the US Army Hospital in Würzburg. I was surprised on this trip by the number of houses with solar panels on the roofs of houses. Even more astounding were ancient, well-worn barns with solar panels. I wonder how cost effective these are given the cloudy, rainy climate in Germany. Perhaps higher fuel costs or tax advantages make them payoff sooner.
Arriving in Würzburg is a homecoming of sort to me as I lived there in the 1970's. I still really like the city as a combination tourist destination and University town. Tight jeans and high boots was the fashion among wafer thin women. Angels in modern garb.
We visit 3 seasonal markets: the Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market) in the square, the artist market in the Rathaus and the the Medieval market in the Festung (fortress) across the Main River. I made pictures of the the Christmas and Medieval market. For some fool reason I forgot to do the same at the artist market, which was my favorite.
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...34056855_ccvrC
When visiting Würzburg I like to take a walk through the Residenz gardens. We skipped the Residenz itself as my wife got to see it the last two years and I do not care for its Baroque/Rococo interior decorations.
We visit two types of cafes in Würzburg:
The first was a serve-yourself where you get your tea and Apfeltaschen almost before you order it at a counter. You carry your own to the table. It is efficient and pleases me.
The second cafe was (as I remember) more traditional. We went into the bakery counter and chose our cake/pastry. They wrote our choice on a small piece of blue paper. We took the blue paper into the sitting area. After some time, an overworked waiter came and took our order for tea and the blue slip of paper. He disappeared. Our pastry sat on the counter (in view but out of reach) awaiting his return. Eventually, he bought our tea and fetched your pastry. Everyone was pleasant and the sweets were great. Still, I preferred the self-serve.
We stayed at the Hotel Barbarossa. It is on the edge of the pedestrian zone. It has small, simple rooms and a decent breakfast; and we liked it. We have two restaurants that we like in Würzburg. Unfortunately one was closed on the day that we tried to eat there. So, we ate at the Gaststätte St. Josef both nights. It is one of our favorites in Deutschland, so that was no hardship.
Arriving in Würzburg is a homecoming of sort to me as I lived there in the 1970's. I still really like the city as a combination tourist destination and University town. Tight jeans and high boots was the fashion among wafer thin women. Angels in modern garb.
We visit 3 seasonal markets: the Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market) in the square, the artist market in the Rathaus and the the Medieval market in the Festung (fortress) across the Main River. I made pictures of the the Christmas and Medieval market. For some fool reason I forgot to do the same at the artist market, which was my favorite.
http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/gallery...34056855_ccvrC
When visiting Würzburg I like to take a walk through the Residenz gardens. We skipped the Residenz itself as my wife got to see it the last two years and I do not care for its Baroque/Rococo interior decorations.
We visit two types of cafes in Würzburg:
The first was a serve-yourself where you get your tea and Apfeltaschen almost before you order it at a counter. You carry your own to the table. It is efficient and pleases me.
The second cafe was (as I remember) more traditional. We went into the bakery counter and chose our cake/pastry. They wrote our choice on a small piece of blue paper. We took the blue paper into the sitting area. After some time, an overworked waiter came and took our order for tea and the blue slip of paper. He disappeared. Our pastry sat on the counter (in view but out of reach) awaiting his return. Eventually, he bought our tea and fetched your pastry. Everyone was pleasant and the sweets were great. Still, I preferred the self-serve.
We stayed at the Hotel Barbarossa. It is on the edge of the pedestrian zone. It has small, simple rooms and a decent breakfast; and we liked it. We have two restaurants that we like in Würzburg. Unfortunately one was closed on the day that we tried to eat there. So, we ate at the Gaststätte St. Josef both nights. It is one of our favorites in Deutschland, so that was no hardship.
Dec 10th, 2008, 01:59 PM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"How was the merchandise at the medieval market? Much the same as the other markets?"
Both the Medieval and the artist markets had different kinds of goods from those that we saw in the booths at the few Christmas markets that we visited. Less mass production, more had work. The Medieval market had some jewelry tents that my wife found interesting but decided not to buy.
Both the Medieval and the artist markets had different kinds of goods from those that we saw in the booths at the few Christmas markets that we visited. Less mass production, more had work. The Medieval market had some jewelry tents that my wife found interesting but decided not to buy.
Dec 10th, 2008, 02:01 PM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
>>"..Christmas markets are always more romantic under the influence.."
I mean, isn't everything??
<<
The old song about the girls (and guys) getting prettier around closing time.
I mean, isn't everything??
<<The old song about the girls (and guys) getting prettier around closing time.
Dec 10th, 2008, 02:08 PM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The last leg of our trip was from Würzburg to the Frankfurt airport by ICE. I have read that it sometimes takes up to 3 hours to check in for a flight, clear border control, and pass through security. We arrived to our gate in less than 40 minutes from the Fernbahnhof, with a stop to purchase snacks. There were no lines. So, we had some time to kill.
Afterthoughts:
Thanks Larry for the recommendation of the Campmor carry-on as my primary piece of luggage. Worked great.
My wife loved her new Kindle electronic book reader from Amazon. I would be more impressed if you could upload a guide like Lonely Planet, etc. or a German-American Dictionary. That would require better handling of graphics and look-up capabilities than Kindle has. Still, my wife reads several books on a vacation and Kindle handled this well.
Nine days is too short for a vacation to Germany.
Afterthoughts:
Thanks Larry for the recommendation of the Campmor carry-on as my primary piece of luggage. Worked great.
My wife loved her new Kindle electronic book reader from Amazon. I would be more impressed if you could upload a guide like Lonely Planet, etc. or a German-American Dictionary. That would require better handling of graphics and look-up capabilities than Kindle has. Still, my wife reads several books on a vacation and Kindle handled this well.
Nine days is too short for a vacation to Germany.
