Trip Report France: Paris and a village wedding in Alsace.
Oct 28th, 2007, 05:32 PM
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Trip Report France: Paris and a village wedding in Alsace.
This trip report is dedicated who all the Fodorites with knowledge of France &/or Europe. I spent many an hour learning from you and a great trip was the result. My first trip report:
1. BWI: Preparation
July 21 The flight was in the evening out of BWI. That morning my home was full of suitcases and four people searching for last minute items. While DH and teenagers gathered snacks and bottled water, I ran errands. Somehow I ended up at Costco, purchasing a container of cherries, and latest Harry Potter book, which just landed on store shelves that morning. After loading the car, we said goodbye to kitty, guinea pigs, fish and the pet-sitter.
Because we live in northern Virginia, traffic to Baltimore can be an issue. We left at 3:00PM for an 8:30PM flight. Bring prepared for heavy traffic, we encountered light traffic. Stopped at Cosi on the way for a quick salad. Near BWI we parked at Econo Park, cheapest of the offsite parking lots. I used an internet coupon and reserved online. This lot was very full and I was glad I reserved ahead of time. Econo Park’s shuttle took us and an amazing amount of luggage to the airport.
At BWI, I know to expect long lines and crowds. We arrived three hours before the flight and … no lines at check in. To our amazement, no lines at security. Just bored TSA people in a cavernous, eerily quiet area normally swarming with travelers. I passed through security with hundreds of cherries and a very large gift wrapped Harry Potter book in my carryon. I also had celery, carrots, radishes, and nuts. The TSA people yawned. Then DH gave the TSA folks something to shout home about. He’d accidentally stuffed a couple bottles of water in his carry-on.
DS, 16, who had deemed himself too old for Harry Potter, is sneaking looks as we passed a newsstand with a large display of Harry Potter books.
I stopped at Duty-free to buy liquor. To my amazement they don’t sell to people flying on Icelandair. Huh? This, I learned, is to encourage purchasing liquor in Iceland at higher prices. Note: Fly another carrier or pack the liquor in checked baggage if this is important to you.
A happy moment ensues when DS is surprised with Harry Potter book and DD given chocolate and fashion magazine.
Everyone content snacking on cherries and reading.
2: The Strange Journey to Iceland
Iceland is a place of many contrasts. A set of six postcards and stamps will set you back $22 yet Iceland has such inexpensive airline fares. Icelandic flight attendants were precise, spoke English well and the flight departed on time. We were seated in an exit row, with no tray tables. The plane was old. Before the meal, the stewardess brought our “tray tables”, inserted high-chair style. The food was ham and potatoes. I silently was grateful for the early salad at Cosi.
My daughter surpassed the evening’s entertainment (Ferris Beuller’s Day Off, circa 1986) when she temporarily lost her Ipod, with people of all ages and a soccer team helping in the search. After the ipod was found wedged in a seat cushion everyone went to sleep.
We landed at Keflavik on a cloudy dawn. I saw small shrubs, tiny white flowers and distant cliffs.
The noon flight from Keflavik to Paris was uneventful and we arrived at CDG on time Sunday afternoon. CDG felt like home – construction noise, renovations and bustling with people of all shapes and sizes.
Our luggage was the first…and last …off the carousel.
3: CDG, Paris: Un-Parking
Our rental car’s a 4 door Citroen grey sedan, diesel. It was also parked in an impossibly tight spot, surrounded on 3 sides by concrete walls. With me coaching and DH behind the wheel, 15 minutes later we’d made it out of the parking spot. DH accidentally kept turning on the windshield wipers to the amusement of all.
DH is French by the way. Our goal: eastward ho toward Alsace. I’d studied the Michelin (and Google earth) and chose the N4 over the A5 for secenic reasons. CDG to the N4 uncovered probably the least scenic parts of Paris, but knew we’d be back in Paris eventually. It was to Alsace and the wedding we must go. Once we were on the N4 it was very rural, with barely any traffic, and we made good time. We saw farms, cows, and modern windmills. AAA’s map was worthless but Google’s directions were good. I wish I’d brought my 20 year old Michelin map!
4: Montigny les Vaucouleurs
Did I mention DH is French? His birthplace, Montigny les Vaucouleurs, is not so far from the N4. DH wanted to stop for “two minutes” and see his mother’s gravesite. Note when my Frenchman says two minutes he really means two hours. This I knew. We turned off the N4 at Void.
We drove south into Vaucouleurs, a small town with a statue of Joan of Arc. DH pointed out a nondescript building where a bicycle shop used to be, perhaps because we both like bicycling. The turnoff to Montigny les Vaucouleers was a 10% upward grade west into the mountains. When DH mentioned his mother rode her bike to/from town every day to work, I suddenly I saw her in a new light. It would take legs of steel to climb that hill...
The road continued up, up, up. Montigny les Vaucouleurs, surrounded by forests, is a quiet peaceful village with an old church, and a small scattering of homes. The silence was loud and the temperature 72 degrees.
In 1957 Charles de Gaulle passed through Montigny les Vaucouleurs on a motorcade and DH, age 3, sitting on the shoulders of his father, shakes the hand of Charles de Gaulle.
This day we saw children playing soccer and one adult. The adult turned out to be DH’s cousin whom he’s not seen for many years. An emotional reunion. We walk to DH birth house, no longer in ruins, but renovated by another cousin. Another emotional reunion. DS snaps pictures of people, houses, animals, silence. DD with dogs, horses. DH talking, reminiscing. We stroll through town passing the church where Joan of Arc saddled her horses for the ride into Paris so many years ago.
In the golden light of late afternoon, we depart.
5: Dinner and Nancy
Back on the N4 we drive to Nancy for a stroll in Place Stanislaus and dinner. Place Stanislaus filled with an almost pinkish evening light. In this light the cobbled open area with lovely buildings, hotel, opera, fountains, and restaurants look timeless. We’re hungry - the troops have had their fill of carrots, celery, nuts, chocolate and cherries. But we are hungry and everyone wants…pizza. After dinner, we linger some more, but its getting late.
Approaching the Vosges mountains, the N4 becomes hilly and curvy, somehow DH knows where he’s heading so I drift off to sleep.
6: Hoffen, Alsace
Our arrival in Hoffen is announced by barking dogs.
We tumble into DH’s sister’s house and fall asleep. We awoke to coffee, baquette and rolls. DH’s sister lives in a half timbered house circa 1850 with thick walls and steep red tiled roof. The cellar has a dirt floor and is where the wine, potatoes, etc are stored. An unoccupied barn is attached to the house. Most homes in town are half timbered with dark brown painted wood and white plaster. The yard is divided in two parts, hedged, and beautifully appointed with flowers. Flowers in window boxes, and barrels, flowers decorating old farm equipment, and meandering along the terrace. In the vegetable garden grows lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, onions, and more. Fruit trees line the perimeter. My favorite tree, the Mirabelle, died in a storm. We are joined by a small dog, cat, bunny and fish.
As I was peering through the fog of morning coffee, my niece arrived to prepare lunch. She is getting married in less than a week. Spoiled hungry travelers we are! DS still fast asleep, Harry Potter book on his chest.
Later Monday, we walk through Hoffen catching up with friends and townspeople. Many people still farm but others have converted their barns into homes or apartments. It is not unusual to see tractors rumble through the main street. In the afternoon we settle in our Gite, owned by DH’s childhood friend. Dinner is homemade quiche Lorraine: jambons (ham), lait, fromage, & crème fraisch on a tart. Salad freshly picked from her vegetable garden.
As good as it gets.
I'll post more soon about Alsace, the wedding and Paris, I have to get the kids ready for bed now...
1. BWI: Preparation
July 21 The flight was in the evening out of BWI. That morning my home was full of suitcases and four people searching for last minute items. While DH and teenagers gathered snacks and bottled water, I ran errands. Somehow I ended up at Costco, purchasing a container of cherries, and latest Harry Potter book, which just landed on store shelves that morning. After loading the car, we said goodbye to kitty, guinea pigs, fish and the pet-sitter.
Because we live in northern Virginia, traffic to Baltimore can be an issue. We left at 3:00PM for an 8:30PM flight. Bring prepared for heavy traffic, we encountered light traffic. Stopped at Cosi on the way for a quick salad. Near BWI we parked at Econo Park, cheapest of the offsite parking lots. I used an internet coupon and reserved online. This lot was very full and I was glad I reserved ahead of time. Econo Park’s shuttle took us and an amazing amount of luggage to the airport.
At BWI, I know to expect long lines and crowds. We arrived three hours before the flight and … no lines at check in. To our amazement, no lines at security. Just bored TSA people in a cavernous, eerily quiet area normally swarming with travelers. I passed through security with hundreds of cherries and a very large gift wrapped Harry Potter book in my carryon. I also had celery, carrots, radishes, and nuts. The TSA people yawned. Then DH gave the TSA folks something to shout home about. He’d accidentally stuffed a couple bottles of water in his carry-on.
DS, 16, who had deemed himself too old for Harry Potter, is sneaking looks as we passed a newsstand with a large display of Harry Potter books.
I stopped at Duty-free to buy liquor. To my amazement they don’t sell to people flying on Icelandair. Huh? This, I learned, is to encourage purchasing liquor in Iceland at higher prices. Note: Fly another carrier or pack the liquor in checked baggage if this is important to you.
A happy moment ensues when DS is surprised with Harry Potter book and DD given chocolate and fashion magazine.
Everyone content snacking on cherries and reading.
2: The Strange Journey to Iceland
Iceland is a place of many contrasts. A set of six postcards and stamps will set you back $22 yet Iceland has such inexpensive airline fares. Icelandic flight attendants were precise, spoke English well and the flight departed on time. We were seated in an exit row, with no tray tables. The plane was old. Before the meal, the stewardess brought our “tray tables”, inserted high-chair style. The food was ham and potatoes. I silently was grateful for the early salad at Cosi.
My daughter surpassed the evening’s entertainment (Ferris Beuller’s Day Off, circa 1986) when she temporarily lost her Ipod, with people of all ages and a soccer team helping in the search. After the ipod was found wedged in a seat cushion everyone went to sleep.
We landed at Keflavik on a cloudy dawn. I saw small shrubs, tiny white flowers and distant cliffs.
The noon flight from Keflavik to Paris was uneventful and we arrived at CDG on time Sunday afternoon. CDG felt like home – construction noise, renovations and bustling with people of all shapes and sizes.
Our luggage was the first…and last …off the carousel.
3: CDG, Paris: Un-Parking
Our rental car’s a 4 door Citroen grey sedan, diesel. It was also parked in an impossibly tight spot, surrounded on 3 sides by concrete walls. With me coaching and DH behind the wheel, 15 minutes later we’d made it out of the parking spot. DH accidentally kept turning on the windshield wipers to the amusement of all.
DH is French by the way. Our goal: eastward ho toward Alsace. I’d studied the Michelin (and Google earth) and chose the N4 over the A5 for secenic reasons. CDG to the N4 uncovered probably the least scenic parts of Paris, but knew we’d be back in Paris eventually. It was to Alsace and the wedding we must go. Once we were on the N4 it was very rural, with barely any traffic, and we made good time. We saw farms, cows, and modern windmills. AAA’s map was worthless but Google’s directions were good. I wish I’d brought my 20 year old Michelin map!
4: Montigny les Vaucouleurs
Did I mention DH is French? His birthplace, Montigny les Vaucouleurs, is not so far from the N4. DH wanted to stop for “two minutes” and see his mother’s gravesite. Note when my Frenchman says two minutes he really means two hours. This I knew. We turned off the N4 at Void.
We drove south into Vaucouleurs, a small town with a statue of Joan of Arc. DH pointed out a nondescript building where a bicycle shop used to be, perhaps because we both like bicycling. The turnoff to Montigny les Vaucouleers was a 10% upward grade west into the mountains. When DH mentioned his mother rode her bike to/from town every day to work, I suddenly I saw her in a new light. It would take legs of steel to climb that hill...
The road continued up, up, up. Montigny les Vaucouleurs, surrounded by forests, is a quiet peaceful village with an old church, and a small scattering of homes. The silence was loud and the temperature 72 degrees.
In 1957 Charles de Gaulle passed through Montigny les Vaucouleurs on a motorcade and DH, age 3, sitting on the shoulders of his father, shakes the hand of Charles de Gaulle.
This day we saw children playing soccer and one adult. The adult turned out to be DH’s cousin whom he’s not seen for many years. An emotional reunion. We walk to DH birth house, no longer in ruins, but renovated by another cousin. Another emotional reunion. DS snaps pictures of people, houses, animals, silence. DD with dogs, horses. DH talking, reminiscing. We stroll through town passing the church where Joan of Arc saddled her horses for the ride into Paris so many years ago.
In the golden light of late afternoon, we depart.
5: Dinner and Nancy
Back on the N4 we drive to Nancy for a stroll in Place Stanislaus and dinner. Place Stanislaus filled with an almost pinkish evening light. In this light the cobbled open area with lovely buildings, hotel, opera, fountains, and restaurants look timeless. We’re hungry - the troops have had their fill of carrots, celery, nuts, chocolate and cherries. But we are hungry and everyone wants…pizza. After dinner, we linger some more, but its getting late.
Approaching the Vosges mountains, the N4 becomes hilly and curvy, somehow DH knows where he’s heading so I drift off to sleep.
6: Hoffen, Alsace
Our arrival in Hoffen is announced by barking dogs.
We tumble into DH’s sister’s house and fall asleep. We awoke to coffee, baquette and rolls. DH’s sister lives in a half timbered house circa 1850 with thick walls and steep red tiled roof. The cellar has a dirt floor and is where the wine, potatoes, etc are stored. An unoccupied barn is attached to the house. Most homes in town are half timbered with dark brown painted wood and white plaster. The yard is divided in two parts, hedged, and beautifully appointed with flowers. Flowers in window boxes, and barrels, flowers decorating old farm equipment, and meandering along the terrace. In the vegetable garden grows lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, onions, and more. Fruit trees line the perimeter. My favorite tree, the Mirabelle, died in a storm. We are joined by a small dog, cat, bunny and fish.
As I was peering through the fog of morning coffee, my niece arrived to prepare lunch. She is getting married in less than a week. Spoiled hungry travelers we are! DS still fast asleep, Harry Potter book on his chest.
Later Monday, we walk through Hoffen catching up with friends and townspeople. Many people still farm but others have converted their barns into homes or apartments. It is not unusual to see tractors rumble through the main street. In the afternoon we settle in our Gite, owned by DH’s childhood friend. Dinner is homemade quiche Lorraine: jambons (ham), lait, fromage, & crème fraisch on a tart. Salad freshly picked from her vegetable garden.
As good as it gets.
I'll post more soon about Alsace, the wedding and Paris, I have to get the kids ready for bed now...
Oct 28th, 2007, 09:38 PM
#3
Am I correct in understanding that you drove directly from CDG to Alsace on the same day that you arrived? That would throw some people here for a loop, especially those who can barely drag themselves into a taxi to Paris upon arrival.
Oct 29th, 2007, 09:34 PM
#7
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Avalon & Kerouac, we did drive from CDG to Alsace. Doh. What was I thinking! !! I seriously considered booking a hotel in Nancy, and almost did. But DH wanted to get to his sister’s, and I listened to bad advice. I should’ve booked the hotel. Lesson Learned.
I will post some pictures soon and send the link.
7: Ribeauville, Riquewihr and the Alsace Wine Road
Tuesday. DS&D to spend the day with friends their age in Hoffen. DH & I set out for the Alsace Wine Road. We’ll just enjoy the day. No checking things off a list of must-sees, with one exception. Our neighbor back home is a big wine connesieur, for her we promised to find the Domain-Humbrecht winery in Turckheim.
Some French towns have a second town sign, “comite national Village Fleuri pour le fleurrisement de la france”. The national commitee for the flowering of France may award towns a “flower rating” of beauty from 1-4 flowers. Or none. Many of the towns along the wine road have 1 - 4 flowers.
The Alsace wine road covers area between Marlenheim and and Thann, and wiki is a good resource. I used the Michelin Alsace guide. We exited A35/E25 near Beblenheim, from there we could see Haute Konigsberg.
DH mumbled Ribeauville, and we meandered north through the mist. At Ribeauville, before we knew it we were on the main street gawking at the lovely buildings, sudden sunshine, flowers, and pedestrians. It was simply beautiful. We drove to Riquewihr, parked outside town. We entered town through the arch. More beautiful, and most streets pedestrian. In addition to wine, schnapps is made locally. Macaroon cookies are fresh and warm. And all the wine is good, and some is very good.
We wandered into Daniel Jung, one-man wine operation in blue overalls, labeling wine bottles when we entered. We buy Grand Cru Gewurtztraminer, and Reisling. Wish I’d bought more, as he doesn’t export. Lunch at a tiny spot in an alleyway. Even in July the weather was straining to reach 70 f with drizzle. We ordered Alsatian Bakeoffen; a hot casserole of meats, carrots, and potatoes served in an individual crock pot. It was delicious and warmed us up, as did the local wine. Later we passed Daniel, caught in the act of lubricating winemaking tools. We walked off lunch, randomly buying wine and taking pictures.
Michelin Alsace recommended the view of Turckheim (3 flower rating) from the north. From Riquewihr we drove through geometrically vine-strewn hillsides, down from Niedersmorswihr to Turckheim, where all the roofs were the same reddish clay tile. DH began talking to a Portugese couple who’d moved to Turckheim years ago. They directed us to Oliver & Humbrecht winery. This turned out to be a rather big operation outside town. Well away from the scenery searching tourist, Oliver & Humbrecht caters to wine elite in a stark modern office.
First time I paid over 100 E for a bottle of wine.
8 Storks and dinner in Rott, Alsace
Back “home” in Hoffen, we picked up family members and drove to Rott for dinner with the pending bride and groom. Along the way to Rott, we passed through Hohwiller (4 flowers), site of a stork nest. Storks once were plentiful in Alsace but disappeared by the 80’s. Slowly, they’re returning. The large nest was on the roof of a private home. Four baby chicks were clearly visible. I promise I’ll post the pictures.
Dinner in Rott, was a basic meal of Alsatian sausages (knackwurst and merguez), baquette and potato salad. We walked afterwards through fields and orchards of Mirabelle and plum trees. We picked a pail of Mirabelles, very small delicious yellow plums. After the sun set, it was 50 f.
In Alsace, French is spoken but this area of France once long ago was part of Germany, and the Germanic Alsatian language is also spoken. It’s common for a conversation to slip between the two. Back indoors we taught our French relatives how to play the simple child’s card game of Spoons, and we laughed late into the night in English, French and Alsatian.
9. Soultz sous forets (3 flowers) and the first Alsatian bike ride.
I, a morning person, woke up at noon. Our host left us pastries. I didn’t realize it was noon because the clock was stuck at 9.
At DH sister’s, we sat on the terrace lazily looking at the garden and talking. We picked green beans, potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes for lunch. We put the clothes to dry outside on the line. Its been years since I used a clothesline. Back home our HOA disallows this type of practice, so I’d forgotten how wonderful the clothes smell. Busy bees we were, I helped make party favors for the wedding.
DH, DS & I went to Soultz sous forets. Soultz is one of the prettiest small towns in Alsace. Buildings, flower boxes, houses, banks, bridges, and streets were abundantly flowered. Standing on the flowered bridge, I saw a water snake crossing a stream. A hay truck rolled by on the main street.
We went to the jewelers for a watch battery. DH went to school with the owners so a long conversation and catch up ensued. Everyone knows everyone here.
From Soutlz we went to Rott, where we picked up bicycles from another relative. DS & I returned to Hoffen on bicycle via
Rott
Steinseltz
Reidseltz
Ingolstadt
Hunspach
Hoffen
A beautiful ride through towns, farm fields, and the occasional Maginot Line casement.
Later, I bicycled on dirt farm roads, where, in the midst of cornfields, was a small kitchen garden and small orchard. At the edge of another field, an overgrown disused Maginot Line bunker sat like a giant dark pumpkin.
On certain few days of the year, the larger Maginot line fortifications will open to the public. Many years ago DH &I took the tour. Underneath there was an entire system with rooms, hospital, kitchens, and access to fresh air, all interconnected by rail. If you ever get a chance, go.
After dinner we went to the next-door neighbor’s, sitting outside on their terrace. DH & neighbor went to school together. The neighbor’s father, age ~84, left Hamburg, Germany in the 1930’s to join the French Foreign Legion. He spent 20 years with the Legion in Morocco, Sri Lanka, Oman, and French Indo-China (Viet Nam). He loved to travel, developed his own photos, and collected specimens from various locations. I look at old photos, foreign places, and a life well-lived.
It became cold and we drank coffee to stay warm as the moon rose over Hoffen.
I will post some pictures soon and send the link.
7: Ribeauville, Riquewihr and the Alsace Wine Road
Tuesday. DS&D to spend the day with friends their age in Hoffen. DH & I set out for the Alsace Wine Road. We’ll just enjoy the day. No checking things off a list of must-sees, with one exception. Our neighbor back home is a big wine connesieur, for her we promised to find the Domain-Humbrecht winery in Turckheim.
Some French towns have a second town sign, “comite national Village Fleuri pour le fleurrisement de la france”. The national commitee for the flowering of France may award towns a “flower rating” of beauty from 1-4 flowers. Or none. Many of the towns along the wine road have 1 - 4 flowers.
The Alsace wine road covers area between Marlenheim and and Thann, and wiki is a good resource. I used the Michelin Alsace guide. We exited A35/E25 near Beblenheim, from there we could see Haute Konigsberg.
DH mumbled Ribeauville, and we meandered north through the mist. At Ribeauville, before we knew it we were on the main street gawking at the lovely buildings, sudden sunshine, flowers, and pedestrians. It was simply beautiful. We drove to Riquewihr, parked outside town. We entered town through the arch. More beautiful, and most streets pedestrian. In addition to wine, schnapps is made locally. Macaroon cookies are fresh and warm. And all the wine is good, and some is very good.
We wandered into Daniel Jung, one-man wine operation in blue overalls, labeling wine bottles when we entered. We buy Grand Cru Gewurtztraminer, and Reisling. Wish I’d bought more, as he doesn’t export. Lunch at a tiny spot in an alleyway. Even in July the weather was straining to reach 70 f with drizzle. We ordered Alsatian Bakeoffen; a hot casserole of meats, carrots, and potatoes served in an individual crock pot. It was delicious and warmed us up, as did the local wine. Later we passed Daniel, caught in the act of lubricating winemaking tools. We walked off lunch, randomly buying wine and taking pictures.
Michelin Alsace recommended the view of Turckheim (3 flower rating) from the north. From Riquewihr we drove through geometrically vine-strewn hillsides, down from Niedersmorswihr to Turckheim, where all the roofs were the same reddish clay tile. DH began talking to a Portugese couple who’d moved to Turckheim years ago. They directed us to Oliver & Humbrecht winery. This turned out to be a rather big operation outside town. Well away from the scenery searching tourist, Oliver & Humbrecht caters to wine elite in a stark modern office.
First time I paid over 100 E for a bottle of wine.
8 Storks and dinner in Rott, Alsace
Back “home” in Hoffen, we picked up family members and drove to Rott for dinner with the pending bride and groom. Along the way to Rott, we passed through Hohwiller (4 flowers), site of a stork nest. Storks once were plentiful in Alsace but disappeared by the 80’s. Slowly, they’re returning. The large nest was on the roof of a private home. Four baby chicks were clearly visible. I promise I’ll post the pictures.
Dinner in Rott, was a basic meal of Alsatian sausages (knackwurst and merguez), baquette and potato salad. We walked afterwards through fields and orchards of Mirabelle and plum trees. We picked a pail of Mirabelles, very small delicious yellow plums. After the sun set, it was 50 f.
In Alsace, French is spoken but this area of France once long ago was part of Germany, and the Germanic Alsatian language is also spoken. It’s common for a conversation to slip between the two. Back indoors we taught our French relatives how to play the simple child’s card game of Spoons, and we laughed late into the night in English, French and Alsatian.
9. Soultz sous forets (3 flowers) and the first Alsatian bike ride.
I, a morning person, woke up at noon. Our host left us pastries. I didn’t realize it was noon because the clock was stuck at 9.
At DH sister’s, we sat on the terrace lazily looking at the garden and talking. We picked green beans, potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes for lunch. We put the clothes to dry outside on the line. Its been years since I used a clothesline. Back home our HOA disallows this type of practice, so I’d forgotten how wonderful the clothes smell. Busy bees we were, I helped make party favors for the wedding.
DH, DS & I went to Soultz sous forets. Soultz is one of the prettiest small towns in Alsace. Buildings, flower boxes, houses, banks, bridges, and streets were abundantly flowered. Standing on the flowered bridge, I saw a water snake crossing a stream. A hay truck rolled by on the main street.
We went to the jewelers for a watch battery. DH went to school with the owners so a long conversation and catch up ensued. Everyone knows everyone here.
From Soutlz we went to Rott, where we picked up bicycles from another relative. DS & I returned to Hoffen on bicycle via
Rott
Steinseltz
Reidseltz
Ingolstadt
Hunspach
Hoffen
A beautiful ride through towns, farm fields, and the occasional Maginot Line casement.
Later, I bicycled on dirt farm roads, where, in the midst of cornfields, was a small kitchen garden and small orchard. At the edge of another field, an overgrown disused Maginot Line bunker sat like a giant dark pumpkin.
On certain few days of the year, the larger Maginot line fortifications will open to the public. Many years ago DH &I took the tour. Underneath there was an entire system with rooms, hospital, kitchens, and access to fresh air, all interconnected by rail. If you ever get a chance, go.
After dinner we went to the next-door neighbor’s, sitting outside on their terrace. DH & neighbor went to school together. The neighbor’s father, age ~84, left Hamburg, Germany in the 1930’s to join the French Foreign Legion. He spent 20 years with the Legion in Morocco, Sri Lanka, Oman, and French Indo-China (Viet Nam). He loved to travel, developed his own photos, and collected specimens from various locations. I look at old photos, foreign places, and a life well-lived.
It became cold and we drank coffee to stay warm as the moon rose over Hoffen.
Oct 30th, 2007, 06:43 AM
#9
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Kerouac, in France I wander off the beaten track, and would in many parts of the world. There is a lot to discover.
10. Morning Bicycle ride, Alsace
Thursday. While everyone slept, I went for an early morning bicycle ride.
Hoffen
Oberroedern
Stundwiller
Buhl
Maginot line site
Niederroedern
Hatten
Forest roads
Konigsbrucke
Soufflenheim ==== pottery
Forest Roads
Betchsdorf === pottery
Rittershoffen
Leiterswiller
Hoffen
I cycled alone, never felt danger in Alsace.…wildflowers growing at forest’s edge, clear forest air, flowers both wild and housebroken , pottery shops in Soufflenheim, asking for directions in a jumble of French and Alsatian just to practice speaking, a cemetery with German names, a reminder that while borders shift, family names remain. Finally the sweet view from the small hilltop above Leiterswiller where the fields meet the sky.
Fresh mashed potatoes and hamburgers for lunch. In the afternoon, we all drove to the Sporthalle in Drachensbronn to prepare decorations for the reception. Women decorated, men tested beer taps. It appeared these beer taps were in “terrible shape”; for the time it took the men to practice pouring the perfect beer.
10. Dinner at Burg Landeck, Klingenmunster, Reinland-Pfalz, Germany
DH made dinner plans with our German friends north of Karlsruhe. Enroute to Germany, we stop at a Pastisserie and buy exquisite cakes, cookies and eclairs. Dessert was eaten first. We drove to Burg Landeck. Built in 1160, Burg Landeck sits high on the German side of the Vosges up a narrow steep windy paved road. We climb the castle keep for the views and to work up an appetite. Long wooden tables stand watch outside, and it is windy but not too windy. Dinner is Tarte Flambe (Flammkuchen), schnitzel, hefeweissen bier, and good company.
11. Wissembourg, Alsace
We ate Madelines for breakfast. DD & I drive to Wissembourg. We stroll in drizzle, take pictures of the Salt House and yet more flowers. Lunch in Petit Venice straddling a small canal. DD tries salad crudités, but I take over as she doesn’t like them. DD had tarte flambé.
Wissembourg diverted the cold streams coming off the Vosges mountains, making for a lovely, water filled town. I see trout. My favorite is to walk along the path along the moat by the city walls. I look for trout moving in the fast flowing streams, just for fun.
DD & I window shop, buy French perfume and get our nails done. The sun breaks through. We take pictures in pastisserie windows to save on calories.
Dinner back home in Hoffen with our hosts & DH friends from high school days. Drinks on the terrace, fresh zucchini soup, grilled meats, and wine was served. The hours rolled by catching up with friends and their lives. DD asked for seconds on zucchini soup. DD & zucchini…France is a life changing experience. Dessert was meringue with fresh picked blackberries and vanilla ice cream. Kids to bed, and for us a late night with good friends and wine.
12 Saturday AND Sunday: The Village Wedding in Alsace
If you saw Four Weddings and a Funeral, that was us getting up the next morning, er, afternoon.
DH warned me the wedding would last the weekend, but I did not take him literally at the time.
In Rott the wedding party and extended family members all walked to the Mayor’s office for the official signing of the papers and hour long civil ceremony. The ceremony took place in French. We walked back to the groom’s parent’s house. More guests arrived, around 250 or so. We lined up two-by-two and walked to the town church, completely filling it. No one wore a tuxedo.
The church ceremony was in French, German, and English. We were welcomed in English to the Protestant Church of Rott by the Pastors (one male, one female). Hymns were sung in French and very pretty. The inside of the church was painted yellow and the late afternoon light entered through the windows and glowed as they took their vows. The church ceremony lasted 1.5 hours.
As we exited the church a brass band played, and an arch was made by the firemen from Wissembourg. The groom is a fireman. The bride and groom left in the Fire Marshall’s red truck. We followed in cars to Wissembourg.
The first wedding reception was held in the main Fire Station of Wissembourg. About 400 people stopped by to celebrate. A brass band played. Local sparkling (champagne-like) wine from Clibourg was served as we entered. DH ran into more old friends. Platters of sandwiches, cakes, appetizers, white sausage, and of course wine and beer were in abundance. As the sun set, the band played and children ran around to the backdrop of fire trucks.
Later we drove to Drachensbroon for the second reception. This was smaller, just 160 people.
The absolutely strangest part of the second wedding reception happened when the band played John Denver’s Country Roads with disco lights flashing, a group of young Alsatian men dancing the Can-Can singing along in English. But that was later in the evening.
We arrived for the second reception around 9:30 PM, and a seven course meal ensued. The French take their time with meals, the last course was served around 4 AM. In between courses was dancing, music, and some games.
MENU
Delicatesse oceane sur petites bouchees aux fruits de mer et sa sauce homardine
Granite d’agrumes au Noilly-Prate
Prince des pres aux senteurs des sous-bois accompagne de sa farandole de legumes d’ete
Cortege des embaumes
Delice glace aux fraises et son sabayon de Gewurtztraminer
Offrandes de Cupidon
Elixir de nuit accompagne du sourire de beau-pere
Everyone knows how to dance the waltz, but us Americans. Women danced with women but men did not dance with other men. For some dances, the men put on funny hats. Instead of throwing the garter, money was put in a hat. If a man put in money, the garter was raised. When a woman added money the garter was lowered. This created a lovely hilarious tension, and finally the garter was raised very high.
At 6:00 AM DH & I snuck back to Hoffen for a quick nap. Band still playing, DD still dancing and DS having a good time. The reception was still going strong and we were among the first to “take a break”
Having a nap and shower felt wonderful. Pot-Au-Feu was served for Sunday brunch. The wedding band had left, but most of the people here play in brass bands, so there were trumpets, tubas, accordions, and baritones and the afternoon was filled with music. The groom’s younger brother played trumpet wonderfully. The groom’s father as a hobby, played drums, accordion, brass, and sang in bands throughout his life. More drinking and dancing and the party wore down by about 5pm on Sunday. The wedding had ended. Next, Paris.
10. Morning Bicycle ride, Alsace
Thursday. While everyone slept, I went for an early morning bicycle ride.
Hoffen
Oberroedern
Stundwiller
Buhl
Maginot line site
Niederroedern
Hatten
Forest roads
Konigsbrucke
Soufflenheim ==== pottery
Forest Roads
Betchsdorf === pottery
Rittershoffen
Leiterswiller
Hoffen
I cycled alone, never felt danger in Alsace.…wildflowers growing at forest’s edge, clear forest air, flowers both wild and housebroken , pottery shops in Soufflenheim, asking for directions in a jumble of French and Alsatian just to practice speaking, a cemetery with German names, a reminder that while borders shift, family names remain. Finally the sweet view from the small hilltop above Leiterswiller where the fields meet the sky.
Fresh mashed potatoes and hamburgers for lunch. In the afternoon, we all drove to the Sporthalle in Drachensbronn to prepare decorations for the reception. Women decorated, men tested beer taps. It appeared these beer taps were in “terrible shape”; for the time it took the men to practice pouring the perfect beer.
10. Dinner at Burg Landeck, Klingenmunster, Reinland-Pfalz, Germany
DH made dinner plans with our German friends north of Karlsruhe. Enroute to Germany, we stop at a Pastisserie and buy exquisite cakes, cookies and eclairs. Dessert was eaten first. We drove to Burg Landeck. Built in 1160, Burg Landeck sits high on the German side of the Vosges up a narrow steep windy paved road. We climb the castle keep for the views and to work up an appetite. Long wooden tables stand watch outside, and it is windy but not too windy. Dinner is Tarte Flambe (Flammkuchen), schnitzel, hefeweissen bier, and good company.
11. Wissembourg, Alsace
We ate Madelines for breakfast. DD & I drive to Wissembourg. We stroll in drizzle, take pictures of the Salt House and yet more flowers. Lunch in Petit Venice straddling a small canal. DD tries salad crudités, but I take over as she doesn’t like them. DD had tarte flambé.
Wissembourg diverted the cold streams coming off the Vosges mountains, making for a lovely, water filled town. I see trout. My favorite is to walk along the path along the moat by the city walls. I look for trout moving in the fast flowing streams, just for fun.
DD & I window shop, buy French perfume and get our nails done. The sun breaks through. We take pictures in pastisserie windows to save on calories.
Dinner back home in Hoffen with our hosts & DH friends from high school days. Drinks on the terrace, fresh zucchini soup, grilled meats, and wine was served. The hours rolled by catching up with friends and their lives. DD asked for seconds on zucchini soup. DD & zucchini…France is a life changing experience. Dessert was meringue with fresh picked blackberries and vanilla ice cream. Kids to bed, and for us a late night with good friends and wine.
12 Saturday AND Sunday: The Village Wedding in Alsace
If you saw Four Weddings and a Funeral, that was us getting up the next morning, er, afternoon.
DH warned me the wedding would last the weekend, but I did not take him literally at the time.
In Rott the wedding party and extended family members all walked to the Mayor’s office for the official signing of the papers and hour long civil ceremony. The ceremony took place in French. We walked back to the groom’s parent’s house. More guests arrived, around 250 or so. We lined up two-by-two and walked to the town church, completely filling it. No one wore a tuxedo.
The church ceremony was in French, German, and English. We were welcomed in English to the Protestant Church of Rott by the Pastors (one male, one female). Hymns were sung in French and very pretty. The inside of the church was painted yellow and the late afternoon light entered through the windows and glowed as they took their vows. The church ceremony lasted 1.5 hours.
As we exited the church a brass band played, and an arch was made by the firemen from Wissembourg. The groom is a fireman. The bride and groom left in the Fire Marshall’s red truck. We followed in cars to Wissembourg.
The first wedding reception was held in the main Fire Station of Wissembourg. About 400 people stopped by to celebrate. A brass band played. Local sparkling (champagne-like) wine from Clibourg was served as we entered. DH ran into more old friends. Platters of sandwiches, cakes, appetizers, white sausage, and of course wine and beer were in abundance. As the sun set, the band played and children ran around to the backdrop of fire trucks.
Later we drove to Drachensbroon for the second reception. This was smaller, just 160 people.
The absolutely strangest part of the second wedding reception happened when the band played John Denver’s Country Roads with disco lights flashing, a group of young Alsatian men dancing the Can-Can singing along in English. But that was later in the evening.
We arrived for the second reception around 9:30 PM, and a seven course meal ensued. The French take their time with meals, the last course was served around 4 AM. In between courses was dancing, music, and some games.
MENU
Delicatesse oceane sur petites bouchees aux fruits de mer et sa sauce homardine
Granite d’agrumes au Noilly-Prate
Prince des pres aux senteurs des sous-bois accompagne de sa farandole de legumes d’ete
Cortege des embaumes
Delice glace aux fraises et son sabayon de Gewurtztraminer
Offrandes de Cupidon
Elixir de nuit accompagne du sourire de beau-pere
Everyone knows how to dance the waltz, but us Americans. Women danced with women but men did not dance with other men. For some dances, the men put on funny hats. Instead of throwing the garter, money was put in a hat. If a man put in money, the garter was raised. When a woman added money the garter was lowered. This created a lovely hilarious tension, and finally the garter was raised very high.
At 6:00 AM DH & I snuck back to Hoffen for a quick nap. Band still playing, DD still dancing and DS having a good time. The reception was still going strong and we were among the first to “take a break”
Having a nap and shower felt wonderful. Pot-Au-Feu was served for Sunday brunch. The wedding band had left, but most of the people here play in brass bands, so there were trumpets, tubas, accordions, and baritones and the afternoon was filled with music. The groom’s younger brother played trumpet wonderfully. The groom’s father as a hobby, played drums, accordion, brass, and sang in bands throughout his life. More drinking and dancing and the party wore down by about 5pm on Sunday. The wedding had ended. Next, Paris.
Oct 30th, 2007, 09:20 AM
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<< The absolutely strangest part of the second wedding reception happened when the band played John Denver’s Country Roads with disco lights flashing, a group of young Alsatian men dancing the Can-Can singing along in English. But that was later in the evening. >>
That part really had me ROFL!
This is a wonderful trip report. I love the personal, family touches and look forward to pictures when you are able to post the link to them.
Thank you so much for sharing. And now . . . Paris.
That part really had me ROFL!
This is a wonderful trip report. I love the personal, family touches and look forward to pictures when you are able to post the link to them.
Thank you so much for sharing. And now . . . Paris.
Oct 31st, 2007, 07:14 PM
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Here is the link to the pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/filiz893...ey=oXyQt8Q5w2I
Handing out halloween treats took priority over Paris this evening, but more about Paris coming soon.
http://picasaweb.google.com/filiz893...ey=oXyQt8Q5w2I
Handing out halloween treats took priority over Paris this evening, but more about Paris coming soon.
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Kathryncee
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