Trip Report: France, Germany, Estonia and London.
Jul 14th, 2007, 06:14 AM
#24
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Day 10:
Left Strasbourg after breakfast and headed towards our next destination, Eguisheim.
On the way, we drove through Bergheim and had a little walk around. We stopped in Ribeauville for lunch and some wine in a bar. We passed through Hunawihr and then headed straight for Eguisheim.
This town is absolutely beautiful - small and stunning, laid out in 3 concentric circles with the castle in the centre.
Our hotel, Hostellerie du Chateau, is next door to the castle and in the town centre. The hotel is small with 9 rooms, I think, and beautifully restored. We had a room on the top floor (3rd) and it overlooked the town square. The bathroom was modern and huge.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the town and doing some wine tasting. Dinner was a couple of steps from the hotel - Kasfratz. Great little place specialing in tarte flambee and tartiflette (sp?). The tarte flambee was the best I'd tasted on this trip - very tasty with munster cheese on top. There were many varieties to choose from.
Left Strasbourg after breakfast and headed towards our next destination, Eguisheim.
On the way, we drove through Bergheim and had a little walk around. We stopped in Ribeauville for lunch and some wine in a bar. We passed through Hunawihr and then headed straight for Eguisheim.
This town is absolutely beautiful - small and stunning, laid out in 3 concentric circles with the castle in the centre.
Our hotel, Hostellerie du Chateau, is next door to the castle and in the town centre. The hotel is small with 9 rooms, I think, and beautifully restored. We had a room on the top floor (3rd) and it overlooked the town square. The bathroom was modern and huge.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the town and doing some wine tasting. Dinner was a couple of steps from the hotel - Kasfratz. Great little place specialing in tarte flambee and tartiflette (sp?). The tarte flambee was the best I'd tasted on this trip - very tasty with munster cheese on top. There were many varieties to choose from.
Jul 21st, 2007, 03:59 AM
#27
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Day 11:
After a breakfast of kougelhopf and coffee, we head to our parked car near the church. This area of Alsace has a number of resident storks and a couple of them had made a home of the church steeple. As we walk past the church I feel and hear a spray of something. Sure enough, I have been pooped on by a huge stork! Nice contrast on my black jacket! So back to the hotel to try and clean it off - it doesn't come off completely but goes all powdery and seems to get worse the more I try. I hope this means we will have good luck!
We head out again and drive to Kaysersberg via Turckheim and some other small villages. Originally, I had planned to stay in Kaysersberg but seeing as the hotel I had chosen wouldn't take reservations till the beginning of the next year (I like to plan ahead!), I decided on Eguisheim. I'm glad I did. Kaysersberg is lovely but for me, Eguisheim is more unique and beautiful.
We have lunch in a cafe and try the first of many tarte myrtilles. Delicious. Hubby who doesn't have a sweet tooth loves it and wants it often. After exploring Kaysersberg, we drive to Kientzheim to visit the Wine Museum - excellent if you are interested in wine and its production.
On to Riquewihr. This town is very picturesque but also heavily visited. We found the Hugel tasting room and spent about an hour tasting their delicious wines. Walked around a bit and then took a lovely long drive into the hills.
Drove to Munster, homeland of that delicious cheese and walked around town. Lots of storks about to take photos of.
That night, back in Eguisheim, we had dinner at Le Pavillion de Gourmand - recommended to us by a local. The chef was trained by Paul Bocuse. Lovely, family-run restaurant with excellent food and service. The poulet au riesling was delicious.
After a breakfast of kougelhopf and coffee, we head to our parked car near the church. This area of Alsace has a number of resident storks and a couple of them had made a home of the church steeple. As we walk past the church I feel and hear a spray of something. Sure enough, I have been pooped on by a huge stork! Nice contrast on my black jacket! So back to the hotel to try and clean it off - it doesn't come off completely but goes all powdery and seems to get worse the more I try. I hope this means we will have good luck!
We head out again and drive to Kaysersberg via Turckheim and some other small villages. Originally, I had planned to stay in Kaysersberg but seeing as the hotel I had chosen wouldn't take reservations till the beginning of the next year (I like to plan ahead!), I decided on Eguisheim. I'm glad I did. Kaysersberg is lovely but for me, Eguisheim is more unique and beautiful.
We have lunch in a cafe and try the first of many tarte myrtilles. Delicious. Hubby who doesn't have a sweet tooth loves it and wants it often. After exploring Kaysersberg, we drive to Kientzheim to visit the Wine Museum - excellent if you are interested in wine and its production.
On to Riquewihr. This town is very picturesque but also heavily visited. We found the Hugel tasting room and spent about an hour tasting their delicious wines. Walked around a bit and then took a lovely long drive into the hills.
Drove to Munster, homeland of that delicious cheese and walked around town. Lots of storks about to take photos of.
That night, back in Eguisheim, we had dinner at Le Pavillion de Gourmand - recommended to us by a local. The chef was trained by Paul Bocuse. Lovely, family-run restaurant with excellent food and service. The poulet au riesling was delicious.
Jul 21st, 2007, 04:29 AM
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Day 12:
This morning we head to Colmar. Colmar is a very pretty city - lots of great architecture and plenty of eateries. Being a Sunday, there are plenty of people around esp. tour groups. After a couple of hours exploring the city centre, we have some lunch (just ok nicoise salads) and then visit a salon de the for coffee and sweets.
I'd read about the citadel town of Neuf-Brisach and thought it would be interesting to see. It is an octagonal citadel and one of Vauban's masterpieces. However, I think it would more impressive viewing it from above. I was quite disappointed as there was not much to the town in terms of cafes and restaurants, and from ground level, you could'nt really appreciate the octagonal shape of the citadel. Also, the Vauban Museum was closed. After a short walk on the ramparts, we left.
We drove to Husseren-les-Chateaux and walked up to what are just ruins. Back in Eguisheim, I wanted to do some wine tasting at Cave Wolfberger as this was our last day in Alsace.
We had a nice dinner at Caveau Bacchus before a last walk around town.
This morning we head to Colmar. Colmar is a very pretty city - lots of great architecture and plenty of eateries. Being a Sunday, there are plenty of people around esp. tour groups. After a couple of hours exploring the city centre, we have some lunch (just ok nicoise salads) and then visit a salon de the for coffee and sweets.
I'd read about the citadel town of Neuf-Brisach and thought it would be interesting to see. It is an octagonal citadel and one of Vauban's masterpieces. However, I think it would more impressive viewing it from above. I was quite disappointed as there was not much to the town in terms of cafes and restaurants, and from ground level, you could'nt really appreciate the octagonal shape of the citadel. Also, the Vauban Museum was closed. After a short walk on the ramparts, we left.
We drove to Husseren-les-Chateaux and walked up to what are just ruins. Back in Eguisheim, I wanted to do some wine tasting at Cave Wolfberger as this was our last day in Alsace.
We had a nice dinner at Caveau Bacchus before a last walk around town.
Aug 1st, 2007, 06:06 PM
#30
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Hi Coco,
I'm still here. It appeared that nobody was reading my report so I stopped posting. I didn't think anyone was interested.
How are you? I often think of our stay in Dijon. I long to return.
I'm still here. It appeared that nobody was reading my report so I stopped posting. I didn't think anyone was interested.
How are you? I often think of our stay in Dijon. I long to return.
Aug 2nd, 2007, 09:09 PM
#34
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Day 13:
After our breakfast of more kougelhopf and coffee, we did some souvenir shopping and then said goodbye to Eguisheim. What a gorgeous town - I want to return soon.
We had a long drive ahead of us today. We were heading for Dijon and finally meeting Coco. We stopped for lunch on the way and arrived in Dijon in the early afternoon. Without too much trouble we found the way to our meeting spot. Coco arrived minutes later and after introductions we were on our way to her fabulous apartment.
I had high expectations as a result of posts here and I wasn't disappointed. The apartment looks just as it appears on the website - it's spacious, clean , light-filled and very tastefully decorated. It is also very conveniently located. The fridge is well stocked and Coco has thought of everything to make your stay as comfortable as possible. She made us feel very welcome.
After we were shown around the apartment, Coco took us for a walk in town and pointed out places of interest.
Back in the apartment, we enjoyed yummy chocolate cakes courtesy of our host and thought how lucky we were to be able to call this our home for 7 nights.
We spent the rest of the day re-acquainting ourselves with Dijon and buying provisions for dinner. (We had visited Dijon for 3 nights in 2000.)
After eating breakfast, lunch and dinner in restaurants for almost 2 weeks, it was a nice change to be able to prepare a home cooked meal. Coco's kitchen is very well-equipped to do so. We were also able to drink the wine we had purchased along the way.
After dinner and a short walk we slept well in the very comfy and spacious bed.
After our breakfast of more kougelhopf and coffee, we did some souvenir shopping and then said goodbye to Eguisheim. What a gorgeous town - I want to return soon.
We had a long drive ahead of us today. We were heading for Dijon and finally meeting Coco. We stopped for lunch on the way and arrived in Dijon in the early afternoon. Without too much trouble we found the way to our meeting spot. Coco arrived minutes later and after introductions we were on our way to her fabulous apartment.
I had high expectations as a result of posts here and I wasn't disappointed. The apartment looks just as it appears on the website - it's spacious, clean , light-filled and very tastefully decorated. It is also very conveniently located. The fridge is well stocked and Coco has thought of everything to make your stay as comfortable as possible. She made us feel very welcome.
After we were shown around the apartment, Coco took us for a walk in town and pointed out places of interest.
Back in the apartment, we enjoyed yummy chocolate cakes courtesy of our host and thought how lucky we were to be able to call this our home for 7 nights.
We spent the rest of the day re-acquainting ourselves with Dijon and buying provisions for dinner. (We had visited Dijon for 3 nights in 2000.)
After eating breakfast, lunch and dinner in restaurants for almost 2 weeks, it was a nice change to be able to prepare a home cooked meal. Coco's kitchen is very well-equipped to do so. We were also able to drink the wine we had purchased along the way.
After dinner and a short walk we slept well in the very comfy and spacious bed.
More about Dijon itself soon?
Aug 4th, 2007, 08:40 PM
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Our first morning in Dijon - I was very excited to be back here. As I said before, this was our second visit to this beautiful city. We had been here for 3 nights in 2000 and I wanted to return for a longer stay as it has so much to offer. If you're a foodie and love wine (as we do), art and architecture then you can't go past Dijon. It is filled with magnificent 17th-18th century buildings and is home to great art collections, and it makes a great base to explore the rest of Burgundy.
This morning we lazed around the apartment for a bit and then we went to the street market and les halles to stock our fridge with some provisions. We bought delicious olives, some stinky epoisse, cod fish, pasta, salad items and bread. The market is fabulous - we could've just kept buying more and more food.
We had to get a move on as we had a lunch booking in Puligny-Montrachet. Dropped off our goodies and headed off towards the Cote d'Or.
I was excited about today's plans. We were going to a wine tasting lunch at Olivier Leflaive's. I'd heard lots about it and it was to be one of the highlights of our trip. We arrived in Puligny-Montrachet (a tiny wine village 10 minutes south of Beaune) at 12.30pm ready to eat and drink and learn more about Burgundian wines.
Lunch lasted around 3-4 hours and consisted of 3 delicious courses (cheese puffs, jambon persille, porc with carrots and chocolate), coffee and, of course several wines (mainly white) with each wine described by our host. We did the full tasting which included grand and premier cru wines. For 13 wines and lunch we paid 49 euro each. If that's too much wine for you to handle, you can taste less for a lower price.
If you like wine, I highly recommend this experience.
During lunch, we discovered that the rowdy guests next to us were fellow Australians. At their request, we ended up at their table and together enjoyed the last few wines on the list. A couple of lthe adies had enjoyed their wine a little too much! They had cycled to the restaurant from their houseboat and were in no condition to ride back. So as we had a car, we offered to drive them back to their boat in Chagny. Touring the canals in a houseboat seemed like a fun way to explore Burgundy.
After seeing our Aussie mates safely back in their boat, we headed back to Dijon.
Full from food and wine, we took a stroll around town. Minutes from the apartment and a good spot for a cup of coffee or a cool drink is the Place de la Liberation opposite the magnificent building of the Palais des Ducs (which houses the Musee des Beaux Arts). Sitting outside a cafe, we admired the beauty and splendour around us.
Being of Italian heritage and used to eating pasta several times a week, we had a severe craving for it. Thus, we had dinner in the apartment with the goodies we'd bought that morning.
This morning we lazed around the apartment for a bit and then we went to the street market and les halles to stock our fridge with some provisions. We bought delicious olives, some stinky epoisse, cod fish, pasta, salad items and bread. The market is fabulous - we could've just kept buying more and more food.
We had to get a move on as we had a lunch booking in Puligny-Montrachet. Dropped off our goodies and headed off towards the Cote d'Or.
I was excited about today's plans. We were going to a wine tasting lunch at Olivier Leflaive's. I'd heard lots about it and it was to be one of the highlights of our trip. We arrived in Puligny-Montrachet (a tiny wine village 10 minutes south of Beaune) at 12.30pm ready to eat and drink and learn more about Burgundian wines.
Lunch lasted around 3-4 hours and consisted of 3 delicious courses (cheese puffs, jambon persille, porc with carrots and chocolate), coffee and, of course several wines (mainly white) with each wine described by our host. We did the full tasting which included grand and premier cru wines. For 13 wines and lunch we paid 49 euro each. If that's too much wine for you to handle, you can taste less for a lower price.
If you like wine, I highly recommend this experience.
During lunch, we discovered that the rowdy guests next to us were fellow Australians. At their request, we ended up at their table and together enjoyed the last few wines on the list. A couple of lthe adies had enjoyed their wine a little too much! They had cycled to the restaurant from their houseboat and were in no condition to ride back. So as we had a car, we offered to drive them back to their boat in Chagny. Touring the canals in a houseboat seemed like a fun way to explore Burgundy.
After seeing our Aussie mates safely back in their boat, we headed back to Dijon.
Full from food and wine, we took a stroll around town. Minutes from the apartment and a good spot for a cup of coffee or a cool drink is the Place de la Liberation opposite the magnificent building of the Palais des Ducs (which houses the Musee des Beaux Arts). Sitting outside a cafe, we admired the beauty and splendour around us.
Being of Italian heritage and used to eating pasta several times a week, we had a severe craving for it. Thus, we had dinner in the apartment with the goodies we'd bought that morning.
Aug 4th, 2007, 09:16 PM
#37
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Today we covered a fair bit of ground heading north west of Dijon. Our first stop was Semur-en-Auxois, a beautiful medieval town with large round bastions and ramparts that seem to go forever. If you were watching the Tour de France, you would have noticed that the cyclists came through this town (I can't remember which stage).
We had some lunch in a cafe and then map in hand we explored the town. If you are ever in the area, I'd highly recommend visiting this town - it is really beautiful and interesting and also has a good walking tour.
We left Semur-en-Auxois and drove further north to l'Abbaye de Fontenay. Founded in the 12th century by St Bernard, this is a peaceful and interesting place to visit; the cloisters especially beautiful.
Our next destination that afternoon was Vezelay to see the magnificent Basilique Sainte Madeleine high above the town. Another place I highly recommend seeing.
We arrived back in Dijon in the early evening. After covering many kilometres, we were too tired to do anything else that day.
We had some lunch in a cafe and then map in hand we explored the town. If you are ever in the area, I'd highly recommend visiting this town - it is really beautiful and interesting and also has a good walking tour.
We left Semur-en-Auxois and drove further north to l'Abbaye de Fontenay. Founded in the 12th century by St Bernard, this is a peaceful and interesting place to visit; the cloisters especially beautiful.
Our next destination that afternoon was Vezelay to see the magnificent Basilique Sainte Madeleine high above the town. Another place I highly recommend seeing.
We arrived back in Dijon in the early evening. After covering many kilometres, we were too tired to do anything else that day.
? I can believe you couldn't do anything else in the evening!
Aug 19th, 2007, 09:29 PM
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Today, we wanted to revisit Beaune. We had been here before in 2000 and seen the major sites then, so we just spent the day reacquainting ourselves with the town and eating and drinking. We were fortunate to be in town on one of the few days that the restaurant Ma Cuisine is open. We arrived early with no reservation and were offered a table up the few stairs. I'd recommend making a booking as it filled up very quickly.
This place comes highly recommended on this website and it is well worth the visit. We had a fabulous meal of veal and chicken and some of the best fruit tarts tasted on our long trip. Try the fig or raspberry tarts although they all looked good. They also have a great wine list and offer delicious olives and bread to start with.
After lunch, we did some souvenir shopping and then went to quench our thirst at the Marche aux Vins - a unique wine tasting experience using a traditional tastevin which you get to keep.
After coffee and cake in a cafe, we headed back to Dijon to follow the owl's trail. This is an informative self-guided walk that takes you around the significant sites of Dijon - a great way to explore the city's treasures. Be sure to rub the owl on St.Michel for some luck.
This place comes highly recommended on this website and it is well worth the visit. We had a fabulous meal of veal and chicken and some of the best fruit tarts tasted on our long trip. Try the fig or raspberry tarts although they all looked good. They also have a great wine list and offer delicious olives and bread to start with.
After lunch, we did some souvenir shopping and then went to quench our thirst at the Marche aux Vins - a unique wine tasting experience using a traditional tastevin which you get to keep.
After coffee and cake in a cafe, we headed back to Dijon to follow the owl's trail. This is an informative self-guided walk that takes you around the significant sites of Dijon - a great way to explore the city's treasures. Be sure to rub the owl on St.Michel for some luck.
