Trip Report - Florence
 

After Venice, Florence just didn't stack up for me. They were undergoing renovations on SM Novella and the Duomo, so maybe that had a little to do with it.

We had planned on staying three days in Florence, but at the end of the first day, we decided to see if we could rearrange our itinerary. We called the agriturismo to check with her about arriving early, then we made arrangements to pick up our car earlier. We had to change the pickup location, but that wasn't a big deal. The only extra cost was that the hotel in Florence would not let us out of paying for all three nights.

There were so many people in Florence that even the pedestrian areas were difficult to navigate. We found that we couldn't stroll, talking as we walked along. Most times we had to walk single-file in order to walk down the sidewalk.

We found the leather school behind the Santa Croce Church. The products there were so pretty. If I had just had it in my budget to buy one, but I didn't; not on this trip anyway.

The best thing about our Florence stay was the evening we spent at Michael Angelo Piazza where we sat on the steps watching the sun set over Florence. We stayed for awhile watching the lights light up all over Florence. We got a lot of great pictures there.

The other thing I enjoyed quite a bit was the San Lorenzo Market. I had a lot of fun just browsing through all of the stands. I bought quite a few things too.

I was really tired from all of the walking we had done previously in Venice and my arthritis was acting up so I elected to not visit most of the museums. Instead I enjoyed them from outside and did some people-watching.

Still didn't come across any food that was outstanding while in Florence. We had some snacks at a frittoria that were very good though. I had fried apples and my friend had some kind of rice and sausage ball. She liked it so much she went back and bought another one.

Our hotel was just one block from the train station. That made it easy to find. We turned the corner and there it was. The balcony with a view was of the street that runs into the train station. It was a very noisy place to be, but the noise seemed to settled down and it didn't keep me awake at all. The room was the largest we had during our stay in Italy. And the breakfast there was the only one that included meat and cheese. The name of the hotel was Hotel Boccaccio. The Santa Maria Novella Perfumery is across the street and down a little way.

Speaking of the perfumery, I bought quite a few gifts in there. Everything smelled so good. The church was one of the things I did tour and it was quite lovely even thought the outside was under scaffolding.

We took a cab from our hotel to the car rental place even though it was just around the corner, about three blocks or so. The cost was 15 euro, which we split, and was well worth it. Getting out of Florence by car was more difficult than I thought it would be. I think it was mainly because the street that a sign had us go down ended up being closed. After that, we struggled to find our way out, but we made it.

The gelato was pretty good in Florence and I started seeing Internet hubs there as well. I used one next door to our hotel. It was 1.50 euro per 30 minutes and it was open until midnight. There were a lot of young people in there using the video cameras to talk to friends and family. They also had a USB thingy for me to put my SD card into so I could upload a few photos before going home. My family enjoyed seeing pictures of us while we were away.

One other thing I noticed is that you can fit more into the day than you think. Sometimes when you look at the city maps, it looks like everything is so spread apart. It didn't take very long for us to walk between sites. It didn't take as long as mappy.com said it would.

I can't think of anything else to add. Florence was a little bit of a disappointment for me, but worth a visit.

I'm sorry to hear that Florence didn't fulfill your expectations. When it's that crowded, I don't think I'd like it much either. Much better before or after the tourist crush. Give it another try someday, maybe.

I like Florence but I don't love it. I much prefer Venice and Rome of the big three in Italy. I hear where you're coming from. That said I agree with Maureen, give it another go sometime in the off season.

Hello modglila, I sure understand. During the crush of tourist season the historical center of Florence can be overwhelming with all of the visitors. And in that you had a problem with your arthirits I am sure trying to walk a lot was painful.

I enjoy Florence but quite frankly what I enjoy is getting to the residental area where friends have their home. No tourist. It is like a breath of fresh air! I hope you will tell us about the next portion of your trip. If you post it on this thread it will all stay together. Best regards.

Hi Modglidla,

That's too bad to hear - but it sounds like you made the most of it and got some things in that you did enjoy.

It's funny I usually like to go to Florence for a few days while I am staying in Rome to chill out and get away from the hustle bustle. I do find the people of Florence very friendly.

Next year we are spending 3 nights there after Paris and before we hit Rome - I'm looking forward to this.

What time of year were you there, July, August?

I have to say,I've only been to Florence in the off-season (once in February,once in March) and it's been pretty packed both times.

Sorry, my Venice post listed the dates, but I forgot it on this post.

I arrived in Florence August 30th and left on September 1st.

I certainly didn't dislike Florence, it just wasn't what I had hoped it would be.

Lisa

Lisa -

I'm planning a trip to Rome in late November, and I'm trying to determine whether to do a couple of days in Florence. What was the nature of the renovations to the Duomo, and do you think it'll still be going on in 2 months?

Many thanks!

Maybe it was the huge crowds in Florence that changed your mind about it? If you had visited in the off season instead maybe you would have enjoyed it more. Anyway, if you don't mind sharing what were your expectations of Florence?

Lisa -
Sorry you were disappointed in Florence. We loved it when we went in February!

One of our tour guides told us that something is always under scaffolding in Florence - those old buildings need constant maintenance.

I'm going to look for your Venice trip report.

Kgh8m,

They were working on the dome itself. I didn't ask around about the duration of the work. Sorry I can't help any more than that.

Lisa

Re the crowdedness of Florence, see the top two pictures in this thread, on another forum:
http://tinyurl.com/eo7tt

Good pics. The funniest part of the busy one is seeing the flag and the stick in the air. My main memory of Florence as a city is the mobs of people following someone with a flag or umbrella held in the air.

In case anyone's interested, the rice and sausage balls are called "orancini" -- little oranges.

Boy, I'm amazed at how many people don't like Florence. As I was planning our trip, I was not too excited about going to Florence (based on things read on this board!), but my husband had been there once before and instisted that we go. We spent three days there and it wasn't enough time.

We visited Rome, Florence and Venice and everyone in the family said that the city to which they'd most want to return is Florence.

I'm adding this, modglila, just to add a different view point and remind all the readers that sometimes, one just needs to experience a destination and make up one's own mind!

That's so true, missypie, but while some of us didn't like Florence as a city, I think there are very few who would advise to skip it. We nearly all agree that the wealth of art and "treasures" in Florence is magnificent. It's just some of us don't appreciate the tourist driven center and the city vibe itself or the masses of group tours everywhere.

My experience of Florence was also a good one. Of the big three, I liked Florence more than Venice. Just goes to show, it's personal taste and circumstances. I was able to visit Florence in early May when it wasn't very crowded. And also to see it through my daughter's eyes, after she'd studied there one semester. So we were off the beaten track, visiting her school's villa on the hillside, dining at her host family's apartment, visiting the backstreet stores she'd found, walking her favorite streets. It was a different experience than most get, I know.

I hope people don't get discouraged about Florence. Its tiny cobblestoned streets do get very crowded, and cars come pretty close to pedestrians. As they say, the beauty of a place attracts hordes of tourists, then the beauty is trampled to death.

P.S. As someone said, those historic buildings are constantly being restored. While in Vienna, the Stephansdom was covered in scaffolding, too, as was Florence's Duomo this spring. It's the luck of the draw when you visit.

It really is intereting, how time after time, we see how people have different impressions. Of all the places I've visited in Italy, Florence was my least favorite too. However, I would never recommend that someone skip it altogether - too many great art treasures, as someone else mentioned!

I would go back, but I would not stay in Florence, probably Friesole (SP?) for a different experience.

This is why people aren't honest with their trip reports. Some people think you are trying to discourage others. I'm not.

I never said Florence was horrible. I never tried to discourage anyone from visiting. I never said everyone should dislike Florence. I simply said that I was disappointed and preferred Venice. Of course other people are going to feel differently.

I would treat Florence as a day trip if I were to go back. I don't regret visiting Florence. I just didn't see it as a "beautiful" city.

modglila,

On our first visit to Florence, we had a similar experience. It was packed, loud, and unpleasant.

Our hotel room had a nice balcony, but we couldn't use it because of the noise.

On subsequent trips we skipped Florence and explored from Siena and the Cinque Terre.

Then about six years later, we were traveling with friends and went back to Florence. This time we had a delightful time, and several memorable meals.

The second trip was in February; the first was in November. Both times we had good weather.

Florence is, I think, worth a second try. I hope you will try it again sometime.

Byrd

It is a matter of personal likes and circumstance. I've been to Florence several times--only once of my own volition. Didn't enjoy it at all any of the times I was there--high season, low season, shoulder season doesn't matter. I just don't like Florence. I'm also not a big fan of Renaissance art.

Mrs. Fly likes the art and architecture, but not the city itself. She only had to be there once, so I consider her lucky.

And perception is really a funny thing--on one of our trips to Italy, one reason we enjoyed getting to Rome was that we could chill out and recover from the hustle and bustle of Florence!

Modglila, for me the timing of my visits has made a huge difference. I LOVE Florence. I was there Apr. 3 to 11, 2004 studying Italian (including Easter) and I didn't find it crowded at all, even staying right off the Piazza della Signoria. So I went back in October to study another week and it was similarly glorious, classes in the morning and museums etc. in the afternoons, beautiful weather. BUT I decided to take my brother to see what all the fuss was about in June and we were just appalled. Garbage strewn everywhere in the Piazza della Signoria, wall to wall people trying to cross the Ponte Vecchio, etc. My brother couldn't wait to pick up our rental car for 10 days in the Tuscan countryside. Bottom line, I think Florence is worth a second look in the shoulder or off-season.

"one reason we enjoyed getting to Rome was that we could chill out and recover from the hustle and bustle of Florence!"

Rome doesn't hustle and bustle?

"I'm also not a big fan of Renaissance art."

The sculptures of Michelangelo like David and the Piata(sp?),your not a fan of??

I am advicing friends on their 1st trip to Italy. These differences in opinions is what makes me nervous about recommending an itinerary for friends. What DH and I love may not be what others would enjoy. We have been to Italy 3 times and love Rome and Florence. We visited Venice for the 1st time this year, and while we were glad we went, I don't think we would go back. It's a good thing people don't like all of the same things/places. It would make for very crowded and very empty places !

travel52, you make a very good point.

"This is why people aren't honest with their trip reports. Some people think you are trying to discourage others. I'm not.

I never said Florence was horrible. I never tried to discourage anyone from visiting. I never said everyone should dislike Florence. I simply said that I was disappointed and preferred Venice. Of course other people are going to feel differently."

Lisa, I don't think anyone suggested or implied that you were trying to discourage anyone from visiting Florence. If anything, many of the posters seemed to have the same sentiment about Florence as you.

I got some feeling from reading that someone was worried someone would think less of Florence because of what I have said. Maybe I'm reading more into it than I should. I did notice several with the same sentiments. I'm probably being too sensitive.

You really have to take what anyone says with a grain of salt. I'm not talking about these posts in particular. I just mean everyone enjoys different things and different places. Some of the problems we had can be accredited to taking things read on the Internet (not necessarily here) too literally or as Gospel so to speak.

Regarding Florence being beautiful:

I've been messing with my photos of Florence in PhotoShop today and it really is beautiful, especially from the outside looking in. I guess I couldn't see that from the streets themselves. The photos I have from Michael Angelo Piazza are very lovely and the photos I took at night of the Arno are beautiful. So, it wasn't really fair for me to say that Florence isn't beautiful because it is. The hustle and bustle must have been too much for me on this trip.

Hi modglila, the hustle and bustle plus if it is hot and humid can get to one when visiting Florence. My late husband loved Florence and so always wanted to stay there at least 5 nights or so. Fortunatly we had lovely hotels so that was a help. But the only times I have felt ill in Italy were the times we were in Florence. Again due to the heat, humidty and the crowds.

Now that I am on my own and am able to "escape" to a quiet residential area in Florence at the end of the day where friends live I have actually enjoyed Florence more.

We all have cities and areas that we enjoy or not, and others have complete different experiences and viewpoints.

There is one very popular small city in the region of Veneto that I really and truly don't like for various reasons but obviously many travellers do. Tis what makes the world go around, yes?