Trip Report - Day 2: Lake Luzern, Mt. Pilatus, Lauterbrunnen, Murren
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Trip Report - Day 2: Lake Luzern, Mt. Pilatus, Lauterbrunnen, Murren
Day 2 (Sunday) Luzern ~ Mt Pilatus; Golden Pass train to Lauterbrunnen; Murren
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http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisnbill
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Watch as a slideshow to see the captions. Click on the album map to see where these photos were taken.
Sunday morning began with a delicious breakfast eaten on the terrace of the Hotel des Alpes, overlooking the Reuss River and the Chapel Bridge. It was a beautiful day, and we decided to take the Golden Round Trip to Mt Pilatus and back to Luzern. We caught an early boat from the dock near the train station, and were able to travel on the upper deck, where we met the only other first-class passengers on the cruise, a lovely couple from Australia. It turned out that he and my husband had once worked for the same company (though continents apart!). We cruised on crystal clear water past the Hofkirche, the grand Schweizerhof, the National Hotel, and other Luzern landmarks, and then on into Lake Luzern (Luzernersee), surrounded by verdant foothills dotted with picturesque villages. (The boat made stops at St Niklausen, Kastanienbaum, and Hergiswill.) As we began capturing images of the hills and villages, we discovered one of the negatives of using a new camera purchased for the trip when we ran out of batteries long before the manual indicated we should have. Unfortunately, we hadn’t brought any of our extras with us that morning, so our photos of Lake Luzern are few. Ninety relaxing minutes later we arrived at Alpnachstad and were able to find a small gift shop that sold batteries (9 chf for 6 AA’s, at least twice what we would have paid for them at home, but we were glad to have them at any price!). After that, we carried a spare set with us each day so as not to miss capturing pictures of what we were seeing, as they evoke much richer memories than I can recall without them.
At Alpnachstad, we caught the world’s steepest cog railway and climbed for 40 minutes, up past the clouds, to Pilatus Klum, from which are visible 73 Alpine peaks, although some were hidden by clouds the morning we visited. There is a hotel and restaurant, and hiking trails for the fit and hearty. After enjoying the view and the crisp mountain air, we caught the 5-minute aerial cableway to Frakmuntegg, where we would have enjoyed the toboggan run were we not eager to make sure that we arrived in Lauterbrunnen early enough in the afternoon to do some exploring. From Frakmuntegg, my husband and I had a panorama gondola to ourselves for the 30-minute ride down through the clouds and the trees to Kriens. I felt so free, gliding down the mountainside suspended in mid-air! In Kriens, we walked several minutes to the bus stop (not as well marked as we would have liked, but there were others going the same way, thank goodness) and caught bus no. 1 for the 15-minute ride back to Luzern. We gathered our bags at the hotel, which held them for us since we had checked out that morning, and caught the Golden Pass train to Interlaken Ost (2 hours) and then on to Lauterbrunnen (20 minutes). After an exciting morning, the time spent relaxing on the train as we rolled past calm green lakes and rugged mountains framed by clear blue skies provided a tranquil transition to the Berner Oberland.
Lauterbrunnen
Link to album
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisnbill
Control + Click to view the album, or copy and paste URL.
The album includes photos of Lauterbrunnen, the Hotel Staubbach, Murren, and the Hotel Blumental Restaurant.
Watch as a slideshow to see the captions. Click on the album map to see where these photos were taken.
Exiting the train, we found ourselves enveloped by the steep cliffs that hug the slender green ribbon that forms the Lauterbrunen Valley, considered by many to be the most beautiful valley in Europe. A 10-minute walk along the main street of Lauterbrunnen led us to the Hotel Staubbach, where we were greeted in a friendly, helpful manner that set the tone for our 3-day stay here. We were shown how to use the elevator that took us to our 3rd floor room (no. 18) and were immediately pleased with what we saw - an appealing room that had been decorated with care in inviting woods and fresh fabrics, with a sparkling, roomy bathroom and a wide balcony that provided a direct view of the cascading Staubbachfalle. When making our reservation, I had mentioned that we were celebrating our anniversary, and we were surprised to find on the table in the sitting area of the room a card printed with anniversary wishes, accompanied by a red rose and a bottle of wine! What a perfectly welcoming touch! We sat on the balcony taking in the amazing scenery and thinking how blessed we were to experience such a beautiful and peaceful place. Suddenly, though, our feeling of tranquility was broken by a cacophony of bells from the little church nearby that went on for about 15 minutes! Fortunately, this happened only twice a day, and otherwise each quarter hour was marked with a brief and cheerful chiming.
Murren
We unpacked and quickly set out for Murren, perched on the slopes above, by walking back through town to the aerial cable car just behind the train station. We whooshed quickly up to Grutschalp, waving to the hikers and the cows below, and continued the 2 ½ miles to Murren via the Bergbahn cogwheel train, with beautiful views of the Lauterbrunnen Valley below and the snow-capped mountains above.
Murren is small town, with a road that circles through it, past the hotels, restaurants, and homes. We found it quite appealing and VERY quiet on the Sunday afternoon/early evening we were there. One resident’s sense of humor was apparent in the choice of items that decorated the house, including a small table set for tea, with an accordion-playing gnome to serenade the imaginary guests! Having only had our bread and cheese for lunch, we were famished by this time and went in search of dinner, reading each menu we passed and hoping to find something a bit less expensive. We were still in shock at the cost of food in Switzerland – about 2 to 3 times what we would pay for dining out at home in the US. At last we came to the Hotel Blumental, and were drawn to it by the red geraniums tumbling from the window boxes and the pots of colorful flowers that graced the front porch. Outside was a sign reading “Recommended by Frommers and Rick Steves!” An endorsement by both, accompanied by a tempting, not-too-costly menu, sealed the deal, and we entered the (in our imaginations) quintessentially Swiss restaurant, with comfortable wooden chairs, starched white tablecloths with floral toppers, sheer curtains sprinkled with flowers, and wispy bows gracing the candles and lighting. A smiling wooden bear (the symbol of the canton of Bern, in which Murren lies) greeted guests entering from the hotel. In one room there was a display of steins above the hearth, and in another, cow bells of graduating sizes lined the ceiling beam. The service was gracious, and the food was exceptional. I enjoyed red snapper with grilled vegetables and noodles on the side, while my husband dined on venison accompanied by spaetzle.
As we walked back to the train station, we were thrilled by the sight of an almost full moon perched just above a snow-capped peak. We captured sight of it again on the short train ride to Grutschalp, and then once again enjoyed the swift cable car ride to Lauterbrunnen below. Settling on our balcony at the Hotel Staubbach, we shared stories of our day with the American couple next door as we took in the beauty of the illuminated Staubbachfalle and the little church next door.
Expenses for the Day
Travel
Mt Pilatus Golden Round Trip http://www.lakelucerne.ch/en.html
Reduced fare with the Swiss Pass was 33 chf per person. As holders of a 1st class pass, we were able to ride on the upper deck of the boat, either outside (which we chose) or in an enclosed area. Full fare for 1st class without the Swiss Pass would have been about 100 chf; 2nd class, about 90 chf. The bus ride from Krienz to Luzern was free with the Swiss Pass.
Golden Pass from Luzern to Lauterbrunnen: Inlcuded with Swiss Pass. 1st class 61.60 chf; 2nd class 37 chf
Lauterbrunne to Murren. Both the aerial cablecar and the train were free with the Swiss Pass. Without it, the round trip would have been about $25 each.
Hotel
Our lovely double room with a view at the Hotel Staubbach was $495 for three nights (or $165/night), the least expensive of our trip. I wish we had had time just to linger at the hotel and enjoy the sumptuous breakfast in a more leisurely manner, or to join other guests playing chess in the lounge at night. But the beauty of Switzerland was a siren calling us forth early each morning and keeping us out until almost bedtime. Ah, next time….
Food
Lunch – We finished off the bread and cheese from the night before.
Dinner at Hotel Blumental. Redsnapper with grilled vegetables 24.50 chf; venison with spaetzle 29.50 chf; noodles 3.50 chf. Total with tax 57.50 chf. This was one of our least expensive dinners, and was really delicious. The ambience of the restaurant was a delight, and the service was friendly and efficient.
Note: We were surprised to see that there was no difference between prices of entrees at lunch vs. dinner at most restaurants. Often when traveling, we try to have the larger meal at lunch, when it is usually less expensive. In Switzerland, we depended on takeaway sandwiches and pizza as our mainstay for lunch so that we would be willing to spend a bit more for dinner.
Link to album
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisnbill
Control + Click to view the album, or copy and paste URL.
Watch as a slideshow to see the captions. Click on the album map to see where these photos were taken.
Sunday morning began with a delicious breakfast eaten on the terrace of the Hotel des Alpes, overlooking the Reuss River and the Chapel Bridge. It was a beautiful day, and we decided to take the Golden Round Trip to Mt Pilatus and back to Luzern. We caught an early boat from the dock near the train station, and were able to travel on the upper deck, where we met the only other first-class passengers on the cruise, a lovely couple from Australia. It turned out that he and my husband had once worked for the same company (though continents apart!). We cruised on crystal clear water past the Hofkirche, the grand Schweizerhof, the National Hotel, and other Luzern landmarks, and then on into Lake Luzern (Luzernersee), surrounded by verdant foothills dotted with picturesque villages. (The boat made stops at St Niklausen, Kastanienbaum, and Hergiswill.) As we began capturing images of the hills and villages, we discovered one of the negatives of using a new camera purchased for the trip when we ran out of batteries long before the manual indicated we should have. Unfortunately, we hadn’t brought any of our extras with us that morning, so our photos of Lake Luzern are few. Ninety relaxing minutes later we arrived at Alpnachstad and were able to find a small gift shop that sold batteries (9 chf for 6 AA’s, at least twice what we would have paid for them at home, but we were glad to have them at any price!). After that, we carried a spare set with us each day so as not to miss capturing pictures of what we were seeing, as they evoke much richer memories than I can recall without them.
At Alpnachstad, we caught the world’s steepest cog railway and climbed for 40 minutes, up past the clouds, to Pilatus Klum, from which are visible 73 Alpine peaks, although some were hidden by clouds the morning we visited. There is a hotel and restaurant, and hiking trails for the fit and hearty. After enjoying the view and the crisp mountain air, we caught the 5-minute aerial cableway to Frakmuntegg, where we would have enjoyed the toboggan run were we not eager to make sure that we arrived in Lauterbrunnen early enough in the afternoon to do some exploring. From Frakmuntegg, my husband and I had a panorama gondola to ourselves for the 30-minute ride down through the clouds and the trees to Kriens. I felt so free, gliding down the mountainside suspended in mid-air! In Kriens, we walked several minutes to the bus stop (not as well marked as we would have liked, but there were others going the same way, thank goodness) and caught bus no. 1 for the 15-minute ride back to Luzern. We gathered our bags at the hotel, which held them for us since we had checked out that morning, and caught the Golden Pass train to Interlaken Ost (2 hours) and then on to Lauterbrunnen (20 minutes). After an exciting morning, the time spent relaxing on the train as we rolled past calm green lakes and rugged mountains framed by clear blue skies provided a tranquil transition to the Berner Oberland.
Lauterbrunnen
Link to album
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisnbill
Control + Click to view the album, or copy and paste URL.
The album includes photos of Lauterbrunnen, the Hotel Staubbach, Murren, and the Hotel Blumental Restaurant.
Watch as a slideshow to see the captions. Click on the album map to see where these photos were taken.
Exiting the train, we found ourselves enveloped by the steep cliffs that hug the slender green ribbon that forms the Lauterbrunen Valley, considered by many to be the most beautiful valley in Europe. A 10-minute walk along the main street of Lauterbrunnen led us to the Hotel Staubbach, where we were greeted in a friendly, helpful manner that set the tone for our 3-day stay here. We were shown how to use the elevator that took us to our 3rd floor room (no. 18) and were immediately pleased with what we saw - an appealing room that had been decorated with care in inviting woods and fresh fabrics, with a sparkling, roomy bathroom and a wide balcony that provided a direct view of the cascading Staubbachfalle. When making our reservation, I had mentioned that we were celebrating our anniversary, and we were surprised to find on the table in the sitting area of the room a card printed with anniversary wishes, accompanied by a red rose and a bottle of wine! What a perfectly welcoming touch! We sat on the balcony taking in the amazing scenery and thinking how blessed we were to experience such a beautiful and peaceful place. Suddenly, though, our feeling of tranquility was broken by a cacophony of bells from the little church nearby that went on for about 15 minutes! Fortunately, this happened only twice a day, and otherwise each quarter hour was marked with a brief and cheerful chiming.
Murren
We unpacked and quickly set out for Murren, perched on the slopes above, by walking back through town to the aerial cable car just behind the train station. We whooshed quickly up to Grutschalp, waving to the hikers and the cows below, and continued the 2 ½ miles to Murren via the Bergbahn cogwheel train, with beautiful views of the Lauterbrunnen Valley below and the snow-capped mountains above.
Murren is small town, with a road that circles through it, past the hotels, restaurants, and homes. We found it quite appealing and VERY quiet on the Sunday afternoon/early evening we were there. One resident’s sense of humor was apparent in the choice of items that decorated the house, including a small table set for tea, with an accordion-playing gnome to serenade the imaginary guests! Having only had our bread and cheese for lunch, we were famished by this time and went in search of dinner, reading each menu we passed and hoping to find something a bit less expensive. We were still in shock at the cost of food in Switzerland – about 2 to 3 times what we would pay for dining out at home in the US. At last we came to the Hotel Blumental, and were drawn to it by the red geraniums tumbling from the window boxes and the pots of colorful flowers that graced the front porch. Outside was a sign reading “Recommended by Frommers and Rick Steves!” An endorsement by both, accompanied by a tempting, not-too-costly menu, sealed the deal, and we entered the (in our imaginations) quintessentially Swiss restaurant, with comfortable wooden chairs, starched white tablecloths with floral toppers, sheer curtains sprinkled with flowers, and wispy bows gracing the candles and lighting. A smiling wooden bear (the symbol of the canton of Bern, in which Murren lies) greeted guests entering from the hotel. In one room there was a display of steins above the hearth, and in another, cow bells of graduating sizes lined the ceiling beam. The service was gracious, and the food was exceptional. I enjoyed red snapper with grilled vegetables and noodles on the side, while my husband dined on venison accompanied by spaetzle.
As we walked back to the train station, we were thrilled by the sight of an almost full moon perched just above a snow-capped peak. We captured sight of it again on the short train ride to Grutschalp, and then once again enjoyed the swift cable car ride to Lauterbrunnen below. Settling on our balcony at the Hotel Staubbach, we shared stories of our day with the American couple next door as we took in the beauty of the illuminated Staubbachfalle and the little church next door.
Expenses for the Day
Travel
Mt Pilatus Golden Round Trip http://www.lakelucerne.ch/en.html
Reduced fare with the Swiss Pass was 33 chf per person. As holders of a 1st class pass, we were able to ride on the upper deck of the boat, either outside (which we chose) or in an enclosed area. Full fare for 1st class without the Swiss Pass would have been about 100 chf; 2nd class, about 90 chf. The bus ride from Krienz to Luzern was free with the Swiss Pass.
Golden Pass from Luzern to Lauterbrunnen: Inlcuded with Swiss Pass. 1st class 61.60 chf; 2nd class 37 chf
Lauterbrunne to Murren. Both the aerial cablecar and the train were free with the Swiss Pass. Without it, the round trip would have been about $25 each.
Hotel
Our lovely double room with a view at the Hotel Staubbach was $495 for three nights (or $165/night), the least expensive of our trip. I wish we had had time just to linger at the hotel and enjoy the sumptuous breakfast in a more leisurely manner, or to join other guests playing chess in the lounge at night. But the beauty of Switzerland was a siren calling us forth early each morning and keeping us out until almost bedtime. Ah, next time….
Food
Lunch – We finished off the bread and cheese from the night before.
Dinner at Hotel Blumental. Redsnapper with grilled vegetables 24.50 chf; venison with spaetzle 29.50 chf; noodles 3.50 chf. Total with tax 57.50 chf. This was one of our least expensive dinners, and was really delicious. The ambience of the restaurant was a delight, and the service was friendly and efficient.
Note: We were surprised to see that there was no difference between prices of entrees at lunch vs. dinner at most restaurants. Often when traveling, we try to have the larger meal at lunch, when it is usually less expensive. In Switzerland, we depended on takeaway sandwiches and pizza as our mainstay for lunch so that we would be willing to spend a bit more for dinner.
#2
If I may make a suggestion . . . Trip reports are much, MUCH easier to follow if they are posted on to one thread. Splitting it up into multiple threads for each day means everyone has to keep hunting/clicking on your name to try to keep up and the individual threads get split up.
Just post each new entry to the original thread which will bring it to the top (for examples you can click on most any TR and see how others do it)
Just post each new entry to the original thread which will bring it to the top (for examples you can click on most any TR and see how others do it)
#3
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Nice photos and congratulations on your anniversary! I like the captions on the photos to read something about the pix.
I agree with janisj - please keep your trip report together - it's so much easier that way. You won't want 10 different threads.
Here's the link to day 1.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-luzern.cfm?5
I agree with janisj - please keep your trip report together - it's so much easier that way. You won't want 10 different threads.
Here's the link to day 1.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-luzern.cfm?5
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janisj and adrienne
Thanks for your comments and anniversary wishes! I knew that I could do that but thought it would be better to break it up into individual parts so that someone who is interested in visiting a particular place can just read about that and not have to plow through all the rest. (That is what I would have liked when I was planning our trip.) My plan was to consolidate it and post a single report at the end for those who want the "whole story." I will rethink it before I get the next part done and decide what to do. Perhaps I will change the title to include the places we visited.
Thanks for your comments and anniversary wishes! I knew that I could do that but thought it would be better to break it up into individual parts so that someone who is interested in visiting a particular place can just read about that and not have to plow through all the rest. (That is what I would have liked when I was planning our trip.) My plan was to consolidate it and post a single report at the end for those who want the "whole story." I will rethink it before I get the next part done and decide what to do. Perhaps I will change the title to include the places we visited.
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drchris
Again, thank you for your trip report. It was so nice to read. I really wanted to take the Golden Trip to Pilatus Klum but when we will be there they are closed for renovation. So it is nice to at least hear of your adventure. Thank you for sharing!
Again, thank you for your trip report. It was so nice to read. I really wanted to take the Golden Trip to Pilatus Klum but when we will be there they are closed for renovation. So it is nice to at least hear of your adventure. Thank you for sharing!
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drchris:
Stunning photos-really! Do you have professional experience?
I just gave Luzern a passing glance this visit because I had been there 3 or 4 times already, but how beautiful!
I just finished my TR, sadly, without photos, but soon...soon I'll learn how!
Thanks for sharing.
Stunning photos-really! Do you have professional experience?
I just gave Luzern a passing glance this visit because I had been there 3 or 4 times already, but how beautiful!
I just finished my TR, sadly, without photos, but soon...soon I'll learn how!
Thanks for sharing.
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Mokka 4
"Stunning photos-really! Do you have professional experience?
I just gave Luzern a passing glance this visit because I had been there 3 or 4 times already, but how beautiful!
I just finished my TR, sadly, without photos, but soon...soon I'll learn how!
Thanks for sharing."
Thank you for the compliment, but no professional experience. Just thousands of photos shot over the course of my life, learning a few basic rules (fill the frame with your subject, the rule of thirds, etc.) and a good camera - Canon PowerShot SX20IS, 12.1 megapixels, 20X optical zoom. When our last camera crashed, we opted or a high end "point and shoot" instead of a digital SLR as we have had the experience of carrying around a whole backpack full of camera lenses and other equipment, and decided we didn't want to go that route again. Before our next trip, I'd like to get a smaller pocket camera as this one is a bit bulky, and if we have two, we won't be hassling over who gets to shoot! In Luzern, we talked with a couple who had a Sony (I think) with a GPS that automatically did geo-tagging, so you would know exactly where you took each shot.
Please do learn how to post your photos. I'd love to see them! Just upload them to a site like picasa (there are many others), then type the URL for the album into your trip report.
"Stunning photos-really! Do you have professional experience?
I just gave Luzern a passing glance this visit because I had been there 3 or 4 times already, but how beautiful!
I just finished my TR, sadly, without photos, but soon...soon I'll learn how!
Thanks for sharing."
Thank you for the compliment, but no professional experience. Just thousands of photos shot over the course of my life, learning a few basic rules (fill the frame with your subject, the rule of thirds, etc.) and a good camera - Canon PowerShot SX20IS, 12.1 megapixels, 20X optical zoom. When our last camera crashed, we opted or a high end "point and shoot" instead of a digital SLR as we have had the experience of carrying around a whole backpack full of camera lenses and other equipment, and decided we didn't want to go that route again. Before our next trip, I'd like to get a smaller pocket camera as this one is a bit bulky, and if we have two, we won't be hassling over who gets to shoot! In Luzern, we talked with a couple who had a Sony (I think) with a GPS that automatically did geo-tagging, so you would know exactly where you took each shot.
Please do learn how to post your photos. I'd love to see them! Just upload them to a site like picasa (there are many others), then type the URL for the album into your trip report.
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Thanks to everyone for your kind replies. I'm glad to know someone reads these reports! How fortunate that so many of you have been to Luzern more than once. I hope to return again some day, but there are so many places I have yet to see that it may be awhile. We hope to do northern Italy next, so I'll be headed over to that forum soon!
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dahdch
Yes, there are several afternoon departures. Go to http://www.pilatus.ch/content-n6-sE.html and click timetable. Note that the latest departures vary by time of year. Check the weather conditions before you leave Luzern, if possible.
We hope you enjoy the hotels. If you can afford the extra, be sure to get a river view room at Hotel des Alpes. (Otherwise the hotel itself is nothing special, except for being close to the rail station) and a waterfall view at the Hotel Staubbach.
Have a wonderful time!
Yes, there are several afternoon departures. Go to http://www.pilatus.ch/content-n6-sE.html and click timetable. Note that the latest departures vary by time of year. Check the weather conditions before you leave Luzern, if possible.
We hope you enjoy the hotels. If you can afford the extra, be sure to get a river view room at Hotel des Alpes. (Otherwise the hotel itself is nothing special, except for being close to the rail station) and a waterfall view at the Hotel Staubbach.
Have a wonderful time!