Robbietravels

Fred and I just returned from two wonderful weeks in France. Week one was barging and week two driving around Burgundy and the Loire. We flew LA-London on American and then London-Paris on British Air. I bought coach tickets ($890 each) and used miles to upgrade to business. The flight was fine. In Paris we stayed at the Hotel Regina simply because the barge cruise leaves from that hotel and I didn't want to spend precious Paris time packing up from a hotel in the 3rd or 6th and cabbing it to the Regina. As it turned out, we spent precious Sunday morning time sleeping until nearly noon. I would not stay at the Regina again. We had a good size (Deluxe) room, by European standards with a balcony and view over the Tulleries and out to Tour Eiffel. We had an advantageous rate (288 Euros including breakfast/taxes) and the breakfast buffet was far superior to most. But the hotel staff were indifferent at best and I really don't like the tourist atmosphere in the 1st or 2nd A. As to food, we had an overpriced, uninspired light bite at Bar Vendome in the Ritz upon arrival Friday night. Saturday lunch we ate at L'Ami Louis. Excellent meat dishes and wine list, very pricy (lunch with wine about $200). Dinner at Aux Lyonnais was very good. Once I sat down, I realized I'd eaten there 8 or 9 years ago. More tourists this time than previously. Food was very good and reasonable. For your sake, reader, I wish I were one of those people who could remember each dish and wine or was still willing to take the time to carefully record such details. Hence, my impressionistic trip report. Sunday we needed to grab some grub before the group congregated at 2. I was looking for a cafe I thought I remembered up by the Opera and couldn't find it but stumpled on Cafe Constant. They have several outposts in Paris and I had a wonderful breakfast of fin de Claires and champagne. Then we hightailed it back to the hotel to meet our traveling companions.
I did a lot of research in order to decide which barge, which canal and itinerary my husband and I would cruise. Our priorities were scenery, cuisine, friendly onboard atmosphere, excursions, number of guests, cabin amenities in that order. From many sources, I determined that the Canal de Nivernais offered the greatest stretches of beautiful scenery and I wasn't disappointed. The Luciole cruise begins with a Paris pick up on Sunday afternoon and returns you to Paris on Saturday midday , so five full days of cruising plus Sunday evening. We boarded about 5 PM on Sunday, greeted by genuinely friendly staff and delicious, beautifully presented canapes and kir royale --I knew I was in for a good week. The barge is in pristine condition and the public area furnishings homey. The Luciole accommodates 14 passengers (including two single rooms). I don't like sharing my boat with the hordes but 14 was a good number, among whom we found amiable company. The best thing about barging for me is I get to do nothing. I sat on deck and floated through serene countryside. When I wanted exercise, I'd nab hubby or round up others and walk between locks (I tried to walk for 40-60 minutes each day....calculated to work off half the previous night's dessert). Since I just located the menu book we were presented before disembarking, I will indulge you with a description of just one dinner I found memorable. The chef is an incredibly talented young woman from New Zealand. Tuesday dinner started with a freshwater crayfish, tomato and avacado tower afloat in gazpachio (the likes of which usually adorn the cover of Gourmet or Food and Wine) served with a 2002 Cote d'Auxerre Domaine des Nantelles. This was followed by parsley crusted rack of lamb with a cougette and feta fritter, roasted red peppers and balsamic shallots paired with Chateauneuf du Pape Clos de L'Oratorioi 2003. The finale was apple and franzipane tartlets with cinnamon ice cream and a creme anglaise custard. The blending of flavors and textures was truly outstanding and the presentation first rate. If you're still with me, I'll resume later. I need to take my jet lag nap (can't help myself) and perhaps, for no particular reason, reacquaint myself with my treadmill.

RJD

Good report. I'm not sure about barging because it seems to work best for the overstressed and over employed. But your report is tempting me especially its description of the food and wines. Please consider this encouragement to tell more.

Underhill

Please do tell more--and please, to make reading your adventures easier, use paragraphs.

Underhill

Forget to say that we dind't like the Regina either.

Cherie

Can't wait to hear more!

cocofromdijon

Chérie,
Robbie actually wrote the next part on another thread :
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34813198