Trip Report: Bilbao
 

Just got back Spain. Our second stop was Bilbao where we spent three nights at the Sheraton.

Cannot recommend the Sheraton enough. Very cool, very modern, but in a good way. The service was very friendly. While hotel is striking in its design, the rooms are really comfortable. I loved the bedside controls on the electric window shades. The bathroom -- lots of marble, separate tub, and glass enclosed shower with the best water pressure I've seen in Europe. Did I mention the heated marble floor?

Better than the hotel was Bilbao itself. The urban renewal that I'd read about is in full swing. The area between the hotel and the Guggenheim, while still undergoing construction, is a great riverside promenade. Lots of public art and several "signature" bridges. Also, the new tram system which stopped near the hotel was very convenient for getting to the major sites.

Of course, we saw the Guggenheim. The building is stunning. I really like the way it almost melts into the river. We also liked the restaurant. Not quite as impressed with the collection.

On Cova's recommendation, we went out to the Puente Colgante near the mouth of the port. This very tall hanging bridge had great views of the city's surroundings. The bridge and the walk through neighboring Getxo was a great way to spend a sunny morning. Thanks (of course) to Maribel for her recommendation on Bar Cosmo, it had the upscale crowd and delicious pintxos she'd promised.

Again on Cova's recommendation, we had lunch at Asador Guertaria. It was traditional and delicious. Seven course tasting menu with everything from stuffed baby squid to perfectly seared beef.

Finally, the tapas in Bilbao were the best I've had in Spain. We kept talking about how each place looked like a jeweler. The canapes were that pretty. Top three:

- Cafe Bilbao on Plaza Mayor
- El Globo on C Diputacion
- Cafe Iruna on J de Albia (stunning decor and I love pintxos morunos)

Thank you again to Cova and Maribel for your recommendations. Can't wait to return to Bilbao!!

-- Chad

Chad,

Thank you for the very informative trip report. Could you tell me more about the collection at the Guggenheim Bilboa? Do they have a website I could check out?

How would you compare Bilbao to other cities in Spain, such as Seville and Barcelona? I've thought about going and you trip report is making me think more about it, but I love Seville and Barcelona so much, I don't know if I'd be disappointed if I went to Bilbao instead...

Thanks again.

Hey Artlover

Here's the website for the Guggenheim in Bilboa (http://www.guggenheim-bilbao.es/ingles/home.htm) but if you start at www.guggenheim.org you can see their other museums.

I've been lucky enough to visit the Guggenheim in Bilbao, New York and Venice, and have to say that I found the collection in Bilbao to be the most striking. I'm certain the setting had something to do with it, Gehry's gallery is stunning and beautiful, and for the first time in my life I was glad to have bought the audio tour!

Bilbao itself is not as touristy as Barcelona, but that, I found, was a great thing. Not too many people spoke English and my attempts at Spanish (and Catalan, more importantly) went down well! The pinxos (not strictly speaking tapas up there!) are awesome, and the bar-hopping was the best I've done in Europe!

I don't think you'd be disappointed if you decided to spend two or three days there!

Jimbo--I am surprised that Catalan went well in Bilbao. Now if you tried Basque ...

Thanks for your report, especially the recs for the tapas bars. We'll be in Bilbao for a few days in May and food is a priority for us!

Artlover,

Bilbao is definitely worth a visit. We'd put it off for a while on our list of places to visit in Spain. Now that we've been, we'll be back. It is similar in size to Seville, but laid out more like Barcelona. That is, a small medeival quarter, a much larger 1900-ish "expansion", and contemporary sprawl. Also like Barcelona and Seville, there is quite a bit of urban renewal in areas close to the central core. The area of the old shipyards along the river, Abandoibarra, is a particularly good example of this renewal. In fact, the entire riverfront, old and new, was probably our favorite part of the city.

Regarding the Guggenheim, clearly it's a matter of taste. As I said, the building is stunning, certainly worth a visit. Little of the art really grabbed me. We were also in Madrid later in the trip. I preferred the collection at the Reina Sofia to that of the Gugg. But, again, its a matter of taste. Jimbo's recommendation of taking a look at the website is sound.

I think a lot of people go to Bilbao just to see the museum. I now know that there is a lot more to the city than this one building.

-- Chad

Jimbo & Chad,

Thanks for the info. Will check it out.

Thanks for sharing...great memories!

Oaktown Traveler