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-   -   Trip Report -- Bellagio, Venice, Florence, Positano, Rome (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/trip-report-bellagio-venice-florence-positano-rome-464734/)

tennisgirl Aug 9th, 2004 07:36 PM

Hi! Sounds like a great honeymoon! My husband and I are going to Italy next month. We are also staying at Locanda Orseolo in Venice. So glad you enjoyed it! How long did you stay in Venice? Was it enough time to do all you wanted? How was your room at Locanda? Courtyard or Canal view? How many nights in florence? Just curious as we plan our itinerary.

nbs_mjs Aug 9th, 2004 08:15 PM

tuscanlifeedit --- the cost for the driver from the airport to the Belvedere was 150 Euro paid in cash. It was same price on the way back going from the Belvedere to the Milan train station.

tennis girl -- we spent 3 nights in Venice -- we loved venice and probably would have opted for one more day there. we decided we didn't want to be cooped up in museums on this trip so we really didn't spend any time going inside of museums (i know that will seem like blasphemy to some). instead we planned our venice itinerary as follows:

Afternoon 1 -- arrive in venice, took the #82 vaporetto the wrong way to p. san marco (to the san zaccaria stop)... note that that is the wrong way to go from the venice train station to the locanda orseolo... first of all you want to go in the direction down the grand canal, not around past the parking lot...secondly, it is easier if you take the vaporetto that stops at Vallaresso... that is the stop closer to the Locanda Orseolo and it makes a big difference especially if you are wheeling or carrying all of your luggage!!) After we dropped off our luggage at the hotel and asked the front desk of the hotel for a map including a map of how the vaparetto's work, we went to the bell tower in p. san marco -- we went to the top to take pictures of the views. We then took the #1 vaporetto up the grand canal so that we could just see the views (we eventually got to sit right at the front of the vaporetto so it really was an amazing ride and we got some great photos)... we then got off the vaporetto back at the train station and then crossed over to the San Polo area to wander our way through that section back to the Rialto bridge -- that section didn't have a whole lot that we thought noteworthy but it was still a nice walk as the sun went down... we then ate dinner by the rialto bridge (no place particularly noteworthy) and then walked to p. san marco to listen to the competing orchestras and dance.

next day -- we had pre-arranged for the Locando O. to book us for the morning Secret Itineraries Tour of the Doge's Palace. (we had wanted to get up early to go into the Basilica before the tour but we didn't get up in time... we just decided to sleep in a bit). After the tour and finishing walking through the Doge's palace, we took the vaporetto #1 up to the San Marcuolo stop and walked to the Jewish Ghetto. We took the tour of the Ghetto and the synagogues which was quite interesting. We then walked through the Cannareggio area shopping along the way and shopping again by the Rialto and ending up back near San Marco. We then decided to an oil on canvas from one of the vendors...we scoped out a bunch of them and then decided on our favorite... we just loved the view depicted in this painting. We then asked the artist where we could find the actual view and he showed us on our map. The view was in the Castello section so we walked there, got a bit lost, but finally found our "view" and then took photos of it so that we could compare the "live" photo to the painting when we got back home. We then dropped off the canvas at the hotel, changed and went to the Dorsoduro section for dinner. We ate dinner at just some little place we found (again, nothing too notable) and then after dinner walked along the Zattere to Campo S. Marghareta (sort of the student hangout section) to the San Tomo vaporetto stop and then took vaporetto #83 back to the hotel.

next day -- again we slept later than originally planned -- by the time we awoke, the Basilica was again too busy so we decided to skip it. We had seen a lithograph the previous day at a store in the Cannareggio area so we decided to go back to get it. We ambitiously set out from p. san marco to walk there but somehow ended walking in a big, circuitous circle, so we gave up and just took the vaporetto back to the San Marcuolo stop and then walked to the store. From there we walked to F.Nouve to talk the vaporetto to Murano. We went to the glass museum in murano and walked into one of the churches there and then took the vaporetto back to p. san marco. We then decided to change into bathing suits and spend the rest of the day at Lido on the beach. We had a cocktail and played travel scrabble and just relaxed for a few hours on the beach. We then went back to the hotel (via the vaporetto) changed and went back to Dorsoduro to the Campo S. Margherita for dinner.... we found that that campo had the most "nightlife" in venice b/c of the student draw, etc. We had a leisurely dinner and then went back to p. san marco to listen to the orchestras and dance again and then the following morning left for florence.

The Locanda Orseolo room was big... king sized bed, plenty of walking room, huge bathroom with bathtub and then separate stall shower. We did have a view of the canal but to be honest it didn't really matter b/c the windows were sort of up high and there was no balcony so i'm not sure that there was much value in having a room "with a view."

In terms of Florence, we really didn't see the city and we knew our itinerary didn't afford us enough time to really even try... so again, we opted to just skip the museums and instead walk around, see the churches, get a sense for the life of the city rather than the museums, etc. We only spent 2 nights in Florence.

Hope that helps. Please keep the questions coming!

nbs_mjs Aug 9th, 2004 08:20 PM

tuscanlifeedit --- the cost for the driver from the airport to the Belvedere was 150 Euro paid in cash. It was same price on the way back going from the Belvedere to the Milan train station.

tennis girl -- we spent 3 nights in Venice -- we loved venice and probably would have opted for one more day there. we decided we didn't want to be cooped up in museums on this trip so we really didn't spend any time going inside of museums (i know that will seem like blasphemy to some). instead we planned our venice itinerary as follows:

Afternoon 1 -- arrive in venice, took the #82 vaporetto the wrong way to p. san marco (to the san zaccaria stop)... note that that is the wrong way to go from the venice train station to the locanda orseolo... first of all you want to go in the direction down the grand canal, not around past the parking lot...secondly, it is easier if you take the vaporetto that stops at Vallaresso... that is the stop closer to the Locanda Orseolo and it makes a big difference especially if you are wheeling or carrying all of your luggage!!) After we dropped off our luggage at the hotel and asked the front desk of the hotel for a map including a map of how the vaparetto's work, we went to the bell tower in p. san marco -- we went to the top to take pictures of the views. We then took the #1 vaporetto up the grand canal so that we could just see the views (we eventually got to sit right at the front of the vaporetto so it really was an amazing ride and we got some great photos)... we then got off the vaporetto back at the train station and then crossed over to the San Polo area to wander our way through that section back to the Rialto bridge -- that section didn't have a whole lot that we thought noteworthy but it was still a nice walk as the sun went down... we then ate dinner by the rialto bridge (no place particularly noteworthy) and then walked to p. san marco to listen to the competing orchestras and dance.

hawaiihoneymoon Aug 10th, 2004 08:21 AM

HI - we are going to be taking our 1 yr. anniv trip to Italy in about 4 weeks. After reading your trip report - I got a lot of usseful information. I have a couple questions: 1) I don't understand what you mean by going the wrong way on the Vaporetti. Which way are you supposed to go? We will be going from the Venice Train Station to the Ca' D'Oro stop on Line #1. So which way should we go to ensure we get the best possible view on the Grand Canal?
2) We are also planning on getting the Rolling Pass. What other places beside the Doges Palaca and Vaporetti's do you get dicounts? How does it work in restaurants? Is it a flat percentage off?

3) we only have 2 full days in Venice and were planning on spending time in the SAN MARCO region the first day. We then wanted to see one of the islands on the 2nd day - which would be the best to see if you could only do 1?

Thanks in advance!

nbs_mjs Aug 10th, 2004 02:41 PM

hi hawaiihoneymoon --

1) The "wrong way" -- basically the vaporetto system makes a loop.... in other words -- the vaporetto goes up or down the grand canal and then around through the canale della giudecca... so when you get on the vaporetto from the train station, you want to make sure you are taking in the direction that goes down the mainn big seciton of grand canal, not the direction where it finishees the grand canal, loops around past the car park and then down the canale guidecca... here is the easiest way to make sure you take the #1 in the right direction -- The vaporetto stop where you get on, by the train station is called Ferrovia... if the vaporetto is going the direction that you want, the next stops after Ferrovia will be in the following order: Riva di Biasio, S.Marcuola, S.Stae, Ca'd'Oro.... on the side of the vaporetto is a sign with the next stops down the line... so that is how you can check it out... if the stops are in this order (P.le Roma, S.Marta, S.Basilio, etc.) then the vaporetto is not going the direction that you want...


2) When you get the Rolling Pass, it comes with a pamphlet that tells you all the places where you will get a discount... from the museums to the restuarants, etc... the discount isn't a flat discount... it is different at each place, but the pamphlet tells you what it is for each place...

3) The only islands we really went to was Murano(ie., the one known for the glass) and Lido (ie., the beach). We did not see Burano or Torcello. It really depends on how you want to spend your time. If you are looking to just relax on the vacation but not necessarily sight see all the time, then relaxing on Lido is nice... but again, it is just a beach and a beach is a beach is a beach so although you do experience local culture by observing those around you, most don't go to Venice for the beach. Murano was nice and it is good to go there if you are fascinated by glass blowing, etc. but isn't an absolutely necessary trip if you just have 2 days to spend in Venice and want to see all the museums. I would also try to walk through the Cannaregio area... we liked it there a lot and it also had fun shops, etc.

hope that helps.


hawaiihoneymoon Aug 11th, 2004 09:39 AM

Hi - thanks so much for the info! I have written down your order of stops, and will definitely check those out before getting on the Vaporetta.

About the lagoon islands - well after writing that question (about which island to visit), I did a lot research on the islands and we decided that Burano is definitely something we want to see. It looks so amazing with the colorful houses. And it sounds like it doesn't take that much time out of the day, which means we can come back and see more of Venice.

So I wanted to ask you what else you recomment to see in Venice. So far our itinerary includes San Marco, secret itinerary tour of Doge's palace, checking out the bridges, the Rialto Market, walking, eating, take a gondala ride, etc. What else, in your opinion, would you recommend we see/do. What exactly is in Cannaregio?

Girlie Aug 11th, 2004 11:56 AM

Hi. Thanks for your report - most helpful. Just one quick question. How long did it take you to drive from Positano to Rome? We are catching a flight in Rome and would like an approximate time if possible.


tuscanlifeedit Aug 11th, 2004 12:59 PM

Dear nbs_mjs

Thanks so much for the info on the Bellagio driver. I think we may rent a car, but your info is helping us to decide. Thanks!

nbs_mjs Aug 11th, 2004 07:37 PM

hawaii -- i think you have it covered... sounds like you have the highlights of venice figured out. in canareggio is the jewish ghetto and also some good shopping, etc... it is also how you get to one of the points where you can take the vaporetto to the islands (murano, burano, etc)

Girlie -- i don't have my notes with me on how long it took to drive from positano to rome... but i seem to recall it being somewhere around 3 hours maybe? i think if you go to the tour of italy website i referenced above it may actually tell you more specific driving time estimates.

jd2jc Nov 11th, 2004 08:39 AM

Hi nbs_mjs, your report has been so resourceful as we are planning an itinerary similar to yours.

For each of the locations, how many nights did you spend there ?

Congrats!

nbs_mjs Nov 11th, 2004 04:06 PM

jd2jc --

I'm really glad that my report is of use!

We spent 3 nights in Bellagio, 3 nights in Venice, 2 nights in Florence, 4 nights in Positano and 1 night in Rome.

We got a lot of advice that we were covering too much but as I mention above -- we loved our itinerary and really felt like we got a good introduction to Italy!

klapenta Nov 16th, 2004 03:09 PM

Great reoprt---Question for you.
In Bellagio, we are torn between the Belvedere Hotel and Hotel Florence.
Since you have been to both (at least to eat) do you have a preference based on location in the town? Thanks

nbs_mjs Nov 20th, 2004 09:14 AM

klapenta --

this one is really a toss up... the hotel florence is right on the lake in a very central area -- it is in the middle of the main area in bellagio -- we did not see the rooms at all but the outside of the hotel is nice -- if it is a particularly busy time and your room overlooks the front it could potentially be noisy but again, i don't think this is a bad choice.

Personally, we were very pleased with the Belvedere -- it is a bit outside the main area of Bellagio -- you walk up a hill (a 5-10 minute walk) to get to it... we loved the room we had which was quite big and the view was incredible... b/c you are a bit higher up (b/c you are on the hill) you have a nicer perspective of the whole lake from your room and it is just breathtaking... we also enjoyed the walk to the main area of bellagio and at night after some great meals we liked the walk home b/c we got to "walk off" dinner.

Also the belvedere has a pool -- so that is another reason we chose it... although the weather was too overcast to use when we were there.

jamesandi Nov 21st, 2004 06:47 PM

Hi nbs_mjs,

I will be honeymooning this summer in Italy also. We will be going to Rome, Venice, Florence and then Greece. Funny, I have chosen all the same hotels that you stayed at for Rome, Venice and FLorence. What did you think of each? Did you stay in standard rooms at each? How were the locations? In retrospect, would you have chosen to stay anywhere different that those you stayed at? I am going to be booking this week, so all information is appreciated!! Thank you and Congrats!!!!

BB

nbs_mjs Nov 22nd, 2004 09:35 AM

jamesandi --

we wouldn't change a thing!! We loved all of those hotels and thought the locations were perfect!


jesssica Nov 22nd, 2004 04:09 PM

Hi
Your honeymoon sounds wonderful! We are going to Italy for our honeymoon next June (I have a thread going looking for advice). Our tentative itinerary sounds very similar to yours. We fly into Venice (2 nights)(also at Locanda Orseolo)and from there planned on going to Bellagio (3 nights), Positano (4 nights), and Rome (2 nights).

Some of the advice I am getting is to extend our time in Venice, based on your trip do you think 1 more night would be enough? Would I be missing a lot if we skipped Bellagio?
Also I did not have Florence scheduled in, what were your impressions of Florence?
Since your itinerary seems so similar to the one we are planning I would love any advice.

Thanks!

nbs_mjs Nov 23rd, 2004 09:54 AM

Jesssica--

I think the trip from Bellagio to Positano is too far -- unless you restructure your trip to fly into Milan and go to Bellagio first, then venice, etc. (like we did) -- otherwise, I think you should save Bellagio for another time.

It looks like you will be in Italy for 11 nights. It really depends on your goals for the trip. If you are the kind of couple that likes being on the go and wants to skim the surface of Italy, taking in a few places without doing a deep dive into any (btw -- my husband and i wanted to do that rather than deep diving into just 1 or 2 places, then you can do 3 nights in Venice, 3 nights in Florence, 4 nights in Positano, 1 night in Rome. Here is my rationale for structuring your trip in this way...

Bellagio/the Lakes/Milan -- is too far north to go if you start in venice and then plan on going all the way south to positano -- even an ambitious couple will feel that this is too much traveling time and not enough enjoying time.

Rome -- if you haven't been, you need a lot more than just 2 nights -- so unless you plan on spending quite a few nights to make sure you cover all of it, just skim the tippy top of the surface by staying on your last night -- you can hire a driver from positano to take you right to rome -- if you leave in the morning, you'll get to Rome by early afternoon and can walk around a bit (we spend our afternoon in rome walking around the trevi fountain, spanish steps, the forum) have a nice dinner (we ate dinner in piazza navona), enjoy your last night (we had dessert right in the square by the pantheon which was where our hotel was -- the albergo del senato).

continued.....

nbs_mjs Nov 23rd, 2004 10:05 AM

3 nights in venice is perfect for your first time -- some love venice, some don't -- we LOVED venice and could easily have spent 1 more night there. We got to venice late in the afternoon and spent our first afternoon/evening by going up to the bell tower in piazza san marco to watch the sun set, taking the #1 vaporetto down the grand canal back up to the train station, got off at the train station but walked over the bridge to the other side, and then walked around that area (i can't remember the name) down to the Rialto and then crossed the Rialto and had dinner and then walked back to piazza san marco to listen to the competing orchestras, etc. The next day we just walked and walked and walked... we started by taking the tour of the doge's palace (in p.san marco) and then took the #1 vaporetto up to the jewish ghetto area and toured the synagogues and then walked our way back to piazza san marco down a street with great little shops, etc... we then had dinner that night across the accademia bridge (can't remember the names of the areas very well) in the section near the university and hung out in that square by the university that night... and then of course back to san marco for more music late at night... the last day we went to Murano and walked around there and saw he bovolo staircase and then packed a picnic and went to Lido and spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach... Notice -- we didn't do a lot of museums... we aren't really museum people and instead rather spend our time walking around, meeting local people and absorbing the local flavor just by being there... generally we thought 3 nights there was perfect.... if you want to account for more relaxation time, then maybe spend 4 nights so that you can have 1 day to be at the beach at Lido (maybe have that be your first day so that you can unwind from the honeymoon).

continued....

nbs_mjs Nov 23rd, 2004 01:00 PM

Florence is an important city to see and is a good way to break up the trip down to positano (to get to positano you need to take the train to naples anyway... and florence is on the way to naples if you are coming from venice)...

If you love art, florence is a must see... personally, i had already been to florence and we really didn't want to spend our honeymoon in museums, so we just spent 2 nights in florence... we arrived in florence in the late morning and spent the afternoon walking around the whole city... literally... we even made it to the other side of the arno... and had dinner by the ponte vecchio... the next day we hired a driver so that we could see tuscany... but if you instead want to go to museums that could be another way to spend the other 2 days... personally, we loved tuscany and had the BEST lunch at one of the wineries as I mentioned in my original posting....so maybe 1 day of museums and 1 day in tuscany.

nbs_mjs Nov 23rd, 2004 01:01 PM

then 4 nights in Positano is amazing... if you just want to relax and enjoy, this is the perfect place for you.... to be honest, another alternative is to skip florence and increase your time in positano if what you really want to do is relax and enjoy... it would make the day of travel really long but then you would have a nice few days there.... or you could even look into flights from venice to naples and then get a driver to take you to positano which would cut down the travel time... in positano you can easily spend a few days just on the beach but can combine it with a day to see Ravello and Amalfi (you can do both in 1 day) and a day in Capri... (ie., 3 nights in Venice, fly to naples and get to positano on day 4 so that you spend 7 nights in positano before going to Rome).... a different option is have the driver drop you in Sorrento and spend 1 night in Sorrento and then have the drive pick you up and take you to Positano on the next afternoon and then spend 6 nights there)...

or split it and then spend more time in Rome...

the possibilities are endless...

bottomline is find the right balance of touring around and relaxing... the balance that works for your personalities and interests... but concentrate on venice and southward to avoid excessive time traveling around....

happy to continue to help if you'd like... just let me know what questions you have....


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