dorkforcemom

We returned Sunday from a one week vacation to Italy. In hopes that the following information may prove helpful to others who are planning a trip to this beautiful area, I offer a report/review of our experiences.

Air:
American Airlines DFW - JFK - FCO (departure)
American Airlines FCO - ZRH - DFW (return)
cost for 2 in coach - $2336
Upgrade failure - when the tickets were booked the end of June, I called the AAdvantage desk wanting to use miles & money to upgrade to Business class. We were placed on a waitlist. I called several times between ticketing and the trip to check on the status of our request. Each time, I was told it hadn't cleared yet. It never did clear so we coached it to Rome and back.

Destination: Sorrento
After reading & inquiring about where to base our week, we decided on Sorrento. Many recommend Positano, but with our desire to train to Pompei one day and the archeological museum in Naples another day, we chose Sorrento for our base. I was pleased with this decision.

Hotel in Sorrento: Antiche Mura
Tripadvisor has good reviews of this hotel located at Piazza Tasso. While it isn't on the water (or overlooking the water), the price comparison was such that I had no problem foregoing a view from my room...we took advantage of other opportunities to "view" the bay of Naples. The room was larger than expected (room 202), excellent front desk service, welcome bottle of champagne chilling upon arrival, large windows which opened to a beautiful terrace, nice area to sit outside for a wine & beer purchased across the street at the mercado under the lemon trees overlooking a lush canyon.
Cost - 200 euros per night, breakfast included

Ground transportation:
Upon arrival in Rome, Leonardo Express train from FCO to Rome's main train station (9.50 euros per person)

AV train from Rome to Naples (2 for 1 tickets purchased online prior to trip for 39 euros) I highly recommend the AV train. It's very clean, sleek, smooth, a pleasure to ride on.

Francesco Marrapese arranged with colleague Adriano to drive dorkforcedad & me with 2 others from Naples train station to Sorrento
(cost - 60 euros) I also highly recommend Francesco's service. He emails promptly and is very professional as well as entertaining.

Circumvescuvian train - day trips to and from Sorrento, Pompei, Naples. Very reasonably priced local transport that is not the cleanest, most desirable train visually but easily gets one from point a to point b. It was crowded with both tourists and, what appeared to be, locals all 5 times we rode it. (Cost - about 3.20 euros per person round trip)


Daytrips:
1. Amalfi Coast with Francesco Marrapese for 8 hours with 2 other people in Mercedes van visiting Positano, Ravello, etc. Lunch just before Ravello in a restaurant overlooking water - beautiful view, relaxing lunch, delicious food. Positano - views of town approaching and leaving were spectacular and more enjoyable, to me, than actually being in the town. Soaking up the views while someone else drove was relaxing and completed this day. Ravello - loved this small town. A wedding was beginning at the piazzo church. Those standing around at the base of the steps were invited to quietly stand at the back doors during the service - how special! A good day...

2. Pompei - yes, take water (although proved heavy in backpack) and, yes, wear very comfortable shoes. It was, indeed, much warmer than anticipated. Audioguide - excellent information and just right for our needs. (Cost - entrance 11 euros per person. Audioguide - 5 euros per person) This day was wonderful. It was a fascinating, engaging day but, alas, we wore out physically before all was seen. Favorite sites were the theatres, sports areas, plaster casts & artifacts.

3. Archeological museum in Naples
Local train to Naples, subway, then walking to museum. (Cost - 6.50 euros) We rented the audioguide and, normally, I'm pleased with the info garnered from this method of learning; however, their audioguide provided little information of which I was interested and wouldn't recommend it to others. The mosaics, artifacts, and other items excavated from Pompei were incredible to behold! I'm very glad we visited this museum after scouring Pompei itself.

4. Capri - I've read repeatedly on this forum that to appreciate the isle of Capri, you should stay overnight. While that wasn't practical for us on this trip, we chose to take a boat from Sorrento (24 euros per person round trip). Upon arrival, we waited 20-30 minutes for tickets for the funicular. Afterwards, there was a line for the funicular itself. Upon ascending to Capri, we waited 20-30 minutes for bus tickets to Anacapri. Then...another 20 minutes or so for the bus itself. The small bus, was packed with as many people as possible for the ride to Anacapri. The views from the bus were spectacular. Once in Anacapri, we wandered around town, then took the chairlift to the top of Mount Solaro (cost - 6.50 euros per person). This was my favorite part of our day trip! It was beautiful on top...12 minutes up and time for relaxing & photo ops on top, then another 12 minutes down.

Busing back to Capri, we had gelato at an outdoor cafe in the piazza (yikes - 14 euros!). We walked toward the Villa San Michele for more photo ops and views, returned to the boat for the journey back. I agree that staying on Capri would provide a better experience as navigating around the tour groups proved overwhelming.

Restaurants of Sorrento:
La Lanterna - ate outside, which was pleasant. Upon being seated, we were provided with complimentary glasses of prosecco (or is it prosseco?) & bruschetta while perusing the menu. We were pleased with our dinner, casual dining, and given complimentary glasses of lemoncello to end this evening. (can't seem to find the receipt for this meal)

Zi'Ntonio Mare - indoor dining. I felt rushed as they wanted to take our entire food order before we'd ordered anything to drink. I prefer placing drink orders and sipping away as I peruse the menu. I wouldn't return to this restaurant although it was pleasant enough. (cost 50.50 euros)

L'Antica Trattoria - excellent dining experience. It was a beautiful, outdoor setting with wonderful service. The food was delicious, innovative, and the staff allowed us to savor the evening. Also provided complimentary glasses, appetizer, with set menu choices or a'la carte. (Cost - 130.50 euros). I would return to this restaurant in a heartbeat!

Restorante Vela Bianca - transportation provided from Piazzo Tasso to the Marina Piccola where this primarily seafood restaurant is located. The service was outstanding. I chose a red snapper cooked in a rock-salt crust. It was delicious! Every course was superb and we thoroughly enjoyed dining our last night of Sorrento here. (Cost - 99 euros)

Train to Rome for last night - I didn't purchase return tickets before leaving home and opted to buy them in Italy as I wasn't sure of the time. The cost was much more...(66 euros). Again, we took the local train to Naples, then the AV train to Rome. While in Naples, we waited in the Eurostar lounge, very pleasant and recommended for layovers.

Hotel in Rome - Hotel Barberini
While Albergo del Senato is my favorite, we chose not to spend as much money per night on this trip. Instead, we returned to Hotel Barberini. It's located about 20 minutes from the Trevi fountain. They offer a non-smoking floor and we were upgraded to a suite. Very nice...(cost 226 euros internet rate).

Restaurant in Rome - Antonio al Pantheon
Having enjoyed a lively, entertaining meal here in May, we chose to return. The same personnel waited on us, complimentary glasses of white wine upon being seated, delicious dinner, and, again, given a bottle of white wine when leaving as a gift to tote home.

Transportation to FCO - www.limoservicerome.com
We used Andrea's service in May, as well, and chose to be repeat customers. The driver picked us up at 4:30am for arrival at the airport at 5:00. Prompt, safe, with a clean vehicle...(54 euros)

Flight home - incident free...glad to be home with wonderful memories of Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, Pompei, and a little bit of Rome at the end.

I'd be glad to answer questions or help others' planning a sojourn to this magical place. Thanks to those who answered my many questions prior to our vacation.

AnnMarie_C

Hi dorkforcemom,

Thanks for your report--DH and I are headed to Rome and Naples in December. The feedback you provide on Pompeii and the Archaeology Museum are appreciated. You purchased train tickets on-line between Rome and Naples before leaving home, was this on Trenitalia?

Glad you enjoyed a great trip!

cruznjill

Hi,
I just read about your trip to the Sorrento area of Italy. We are trying to see Pompeii and either Capri or Posatono while one day in Naples port. Do you think we are crazy? Do you know if the ferry leaves Sorrento port every hour to Posatono? We went to metrodelmare.com but it was very confusing. If you had one day only in this area, of all the things you did, what would you choose? We have about 9-10 hours to sight-see before we have to return to the ship. Thanks so much.
Jill

kopp

Hello dorkforcemom,

Enjoyable report! We're heading to Sorrento next spring, so I appreciate your reviews.

I've been to Pompeii several times but have never opted to use the audioguide. I'll look into that when we're there.

KTLou82

Thanks for the trip report. Alot of helpful info as I'm planning a similar trip next spring.

Dayle

HI dorkforcemom,

Thanks for the trip report! You made me feel so much better about not being able to get an audioguide at the Archeological Museum. (Didn't have the right bills in cash, no change given, no cc taken.) The mosaics were definitely my favorite part! Did you find the bronze statues with silver eyes a little creepy?

Note for people visiting Capri with more money than time: You can bypass the long lines for the funicular and take a taxi straight to Anacapri. I was charged 20E which I thought was very expensive, but it was worth it with a small suitcase. Open air taxis were to the right of the marina (exiting), while the funicular is to the left.

dorkforcemom

Dayle - you're right, in retrospect I wish we'd hopped the open air taxis upon leaving the dock. At the time, I was so focused on following my guide to the public transport that I wouldn't allow my mind to wrap about the possibility. This is one of the drawbacks/challenges to traveling well-prepared: when to chuck the plans and dip into the wallet.

AnnMarie - yes, we purchased the tickets on the Trenitalia website. Honestly, I had so much trouble getting it to take my credit card, accepting it, and booking the 2 for 1. I turned that chore over to dorkforcedad who managed it quickly on his computer by typing his credit card number with spaces between every four digits (I was typing it in without spaces). That did the trick!

cruznjill - congrats on your upcoming cruise! I have to say, I underestimated how long it takes to get from one place to the other to see the "sights". That said, unfortunately, all I have to offer isthat you need to chose either Pompeii or Positano. I'd chose Pompeii. It was one of the most interesting areas of momumental historic value I've ever experienced. Perhaps staying overnight in Positano is what creates the magic there, but spending a few hours in the city was a tad disappointing. I found the many, many shops selling, yet more, ceramics redundant. Hope this doesn't sound harsh...Pompeii spoke to me!

Kopp & KTLou - Happy, happy planning! That's half the fun and I appreciate your kind words.

sundowner

Enjoyed your report, dorkforcemom. I was in Sorrento in 2004 and reading about your trip sure makes me want to return. We didn't have much success with restaurants so I've made note of where you enjoyed the meals.

When I saw your name I wondered if Braaaad was going with you.

Thanks for posting and I'm glad you enjoyed your trip.

dorkforcemom

Sundowner...thanks! BrAAAd, D, Dorkforcedad & I are planning an adventure to Provence in the spring. We have our plane tickets & accommodations in Provence It'll be an adventure...D has joined a weekly French club with plans to provide the communication. In the meantime, we want to learn about wines of the region.

kopp

dorkforcemom,

Regarding Sorrento and staying near the Piazza Tasso vs. staying in Capri.

We're probably looking at staying a week in one of those areas, using it as a base for daytrips, probably an apartment.

So how did you REALLY like staying in town vs. a view? Big difference in price, of course, but when all was said and done, would you do it that way again?

And vs. staying in Capri, would that be a better base?

Thanks!

dorkforcemom

kopp - I know you're enjoying planning your trip. It'll be fabulous, whatever decisions you make as your headed off to a beautiful place. Regarding Piazzo Tasso area stay vs. water view hotel choices: I was completely okay without a view of the water. We enjoyed drinks one evening at the Foreigners Club (Sorrento) prior to dinner with magnificent views, enjoyed water views on our Amalfi Coast 8 hour trip, and enjoyed water views on our Capri boat day trip so...I didn't also yearn for views from our room. If you're yearning for a room with a view and you're questioning whether you'll be disappointed or not, then I say get a view of the water. At some destinations, this is more important to me than others.

Regarding a Capri stay vs. Sorrento: we only had one week and with the jet lagged hassle of getting from the Rome airport to Capri for a stay...well, honestly that didn't occur to me. I was having a hard enough tme choosing between Sorrento & Positano but my desire to go to Pompei one day and Naples archeological museum another day convinced me to stay in Sorrento. Also, Sorrento has a bit more nightlife, from what I understand, which is more to our liking. (If I needed a quiet place in the evenings, I'd just stay home!) Let us know how your plans progress.