brotherleelove2004

Hi Everyone-

I just returned from a 4-week vacation to Greece, specifically my favorite village, Oia, on Santorini. I will make an attempt to pass on what I saw, learned and felt about the current state of affairs on this lovely little island. It's such a unique spot, so beautiful and timeless a setting, that (yes, I admit it) I tend to overlook the flaws that so many others of you have seen and reported here with more objective eyes than mine. That being said, there's much that's changed there over the years and here I will make an attempt to keep my personal bias in check and let you know what I've found.

So many hotels are now available in every price range that everyone should be able to find something in their budget with the amenities they require. I was my intention to visit the ones most people want to know about so I could offer current and accurate information about them, but the truth of the matter is that once I got to Oia I didn't want to go anyplace else. I did, however, visit the 3 Katikies properties, Oia Mare, Amoudi Villas, Perivolas Villas, Laokasti Villas,The Residence (brand new) and the Esperas Hotel, as well as making note of many others such as Canava Oia, Filotera Villas, Delfini Pensions, Chelidonia Villas, Anemomilos Hotel and others too numerous to mention. In general, if one of these fits your budget and travel style I can recommend them all to you without hesitation. They're all in excellent shape, well-situated in the village.

The "Big Four," Perivolas, Oia Mare, Katikies and Esperas, all offer fantastic settings and amenities. If it's exclusivity you want then these are the ones to consider along with one extra-special find I'll mention further on. The views differ, with the Esperas and the Oia Mare being situated to take advantage of the sunset (for this the Esperas is best), while the Perivolas and Katikies properties overlook the caldera and the rest of the island. Perivolas, Esperas and Katikies all offer on-site boutique restaurant experiences, but at a high premium. If you want to be pampered then these are the hotels for you. If you want the option of never having to leave the premises then they will satisfy your need for anonymity. Katikies even went so far as to not allow me to take photos to protect their guests' privacy.

As nice as it is to have access to excellent 24/7 services, if you don't care about pampered exclusivity there are, in my opinion, better bargains for the weak-ish American dollar. Those properties offered by the Ecorama Travel office in Oia, which include the Amoudi Villas, Oia Mare, Musses Studios, Casa Francesca and The Residence, all offer excellent accomodations, and all but the Casa Francesca and the Musses Studios offer views of the caldera. Musses and Francesca look out to sea on the other side of the island, over the vineyards across to Amorgos, Ios, Sikinos, Folegandros, Paros and Naxos. Perhaps not as dramatic as a caldera view, but lovely nonetheless and especially spectacular on a clear, hazeless day.

Another good choice is the Lauda Traditional Rooms and Apartments. Rooms start at 50 Euros and Studios with A/C and kitchenette start at 70 Euros. They don't have a website but you can make reservations by fax or phone, with NO credit card required. The Lauda has a caldera view.

Before I go on I have to digress a moment and mention the Perivolas Villas top accomodation, the Perivolas Suite. "STUNNING" is the word that comes to mind. At 1400 Euros/night during Peak Season it's obviously not for everyone, but for those of you looking for an extra-special setting where price is no object, this is the one for you. It's remarkable, and no doubt the largest suite in the village, easily surpassing 1200 sq.ft in size, with its own private infinity pool. This hotel has been developed with obsessive attention to detail, artistic flair and pride in accomplishment by a very creative family of designers and artists. The results are truly wonderful.

If a caldera view isn't a priority for you, the Casa Francesca, Musses Studios and the beautiful Laokasti Villas are all great choices depending on your budget. The Casa Francesca offers basic rooms, the Musses Studios (I stayed there for a reduced weekly rate of 25 Euro/night.) are studio apartments with kitchenettes, sleeping lofts and balconies with sea views, and the Laokasti Villas (also with a sea view) is a wonderfully designed complex with a pool in a pleasantly colorful, relaxed setting. A small caution: I don't think any of the swimming pools are heated except by the sun, but if you're going in July or Augut this will be a welcome and refreshing way to beat the heat.

About the restaurants: Oia now has so many wonderful restaurants, from local taverna-style establishments to Greek-style gourmet dining at its finest, that you will be hard-pressed to make a decision as to where to take your meals. For a typical classic Greek-style eatery where even the Greeks go when they're on vacation, the Neptune is my recommendation. The long-established fish taverna, Katina's, down below Oia on the wharf at Amoudi, is not to be missed. Now a full-fledged restaurant, some of my fondest memories of Oia include the stops at Katina's when it was just a small outdoor spot to grab a quick bite when we were swimming nearby. She now has competition from several other establishments sitting side-by-side on the same wharf, but I noticed that they were seldom busy while she was always going strong. The Laokasti Taverna, attatched to the lovely Laokasti Villas, has a very skilled staff led by Marinos Kokkalis and his Egyptian chef, Sharif, who really knows his stuff. They've created an interesting menu with a mix of traditional Greek and gourmet dishes all prepared with skill and artistic flair. Others worth mentioning are "1800," Ambrosia & Nectar, Skala, Oia Cafe-Restaurant, Lotza, Seagull, Pelekanos, Thomas Grill and Petro's Fish Taverna. I didn't attempt to count them, but there must be at least 25 different restaurants in this small village, perhaps more. The Pelekanos has a great bar for socializing and some quiet nightlife, as well as a small shaded outdoor dining area that overlooks the caldera.
***
And now on to my discovery, The _ASPAKI_. If your budget can handle 230-360 Euro/night, and if you don't care about staying at a hotel, AND if you want to experience the most unique rooms in Oia, any one of these 4 houses are the perfect choice. The owner/designer, Dimitris Nikolouzos, has combined just the right combination of whimsy, antiques and modern design to creat the most memorable accomodations in the village. For example, he used the old well below the "DeepBlue" unit of his complex to create a charming bathroom painted to look like an undersea environment. Everything about these 4 wonderful houses shows his personal touch and artistic flair. The Aspaki gets my vote for the best non-hotel accomodations in Oia. They're pricey by some standards, but worth it, especially for you honeymooners looking for something memorable and unique. They're in the heart of the village, a short distance from several restaurants and all the shops.
***
Now for the "Bad News" suggested in the heading: There are way too many of everything there now, hotels, shops, restaurants, guided tours through the village, ubiquitous "super markets" the size of postage stamps, 'art' galleries. How many shops selling the same cheap plaster of paris souvenier ashtrays and postcards does one small village need?? I was sorry to see this happen to my favorite village, but I guess it was inevitable. The irony of it is that there's so much competition for the tourist dollar that everyone loses money except for a few short weeks in July-August. And the cars!! Virtually half the available parking in Oia is clogged with the overflow of rental cars, and I understand that a traffic cop is actually brought in to keep the narrow approach to the village open during Peak Season, since everyone apparently parks wherever they can with no regard for the problems this causes. The sunsed bus tours come into the village by the dozen but fortunately they have their own parking lot, otherwise there really would be a serious problem. Boo-hoo, I miss my old Oia, where everyone knew everyone and the houses were privately owned. Now developers have bought up all the available properties, refurbished them and connected them with fresh paint and color schemes and are offering them as "hotels" or "villas" for as much money as they can offer. It's as if the whole village has become one big hotel that changes its name as you walk from one end to the other. On the positive side, it's very fortunate that all the redevelopment was done under strict architectural control so everything at least looks good and no one is allowed to build a tall building that would destroy the view and ambience.

A word about the ferries: It's already been covered many times, but I want to remind you that you should not count on any posted schedules because they do change without notice sometimes. I know this makes planning somewhat difficult, but it's good to stay flexible. The ferry companies try to maintain some consistency, but they're always at the mercy of the weather and machinery breakdowns. So make sure you check the day before your departure for any changes, and unless it's an early-morning boat check again the same day for last-minutes problems. Booking a sleeping cabin is always a good idea, especially in July-August. Deck class isn't necessary at all but be prepared for crowds in July-August. Also, there will be a bus waiting at the ferry port on Santorini, Athinios, to take you into the main village. The fare is 1.5 Euro. From Fira to Oia the bus is 1 euro. A taxi would probably cost you 25-35 euro for the same trip. The bus company tries to coordinate the buses to make the ferry port connections.

All this being said, I still love the place and recommend that you be sure to go there if you make it to Santorini. If I can be of any further assistance to you don't hesitate to email me: [email protected]. Put a reference to Oia on the subject line.

Have a great summer and Happy Travels!

Lee

tripgirl

Lee,

Thanks for your comprehensive report guiding fodorites who have so many of these questions over and over again about properties, ferries, etc, all in one place!

we LOVED santorini and everyday when I use my keychain I bought at Katikies Suites I think of Oia and everything I love about it.

Thanks for your previous postings which gave me good ideas.
Despite some of the developements you have seen since you've been going there for many years, your passion for the place still shines through. Nothing does truly stay the same; you just extract what you need from changes and obviously you do so very well.

I would second alot of your suggestions, particularly eating at Ambrosia ( way too yummy).

I'd hop the next plane out if I could but I am off to Asia with hubby in just a few short weeks for the summer.

Thanks again Lee, you are truly a wonderful source of info; always with a lovely way of posting and always a delight to read!

brotherleelove2004

Carta_Pisana

BLL2004 - thanks for the great report. I haven't yet made it to Greece ( a friend and I keep trying to coordinate scheds). Completely agree with you regarding the blight that cars bring to small towns and villages - luckily people are becoming more adamant about strict building regulations. Once again thanks for the comprehensive report.

brotherleelove2004

I hope you make it there soon. It's really a wonderful country, well-worth the effort to get there.

toni

Thanks for taking the time for such an in-depth report. Oia is amazing.

Trish

Hi brotherleelove, when was the last time you were to Oia and when was the first time (is it your page on VT I saw)? I couldn't believe the diffrence in Santorini fom 1998 to 2002. Actually the biggest change I saw was in Greece as a whole from 1998 until 2000 but I can only imagine and wish I saw what it was like in the 70's and 80's but I guess it's unfair to wish time stood still in Greece. I'm glad you had a good time.

brotherleelove2004

The first time in Oia was for 6 months in 1985, the last time was 3 days ago...

Yes, I do contribute to VT as well.

The changes over the last 20 years are almost too much to think about. Not all are bad, however. Oia now has a desalinization water factory, and almost all the electrical wires that used to ruin the views of the houses have been buried underground.

SusanInToronto

I remember going to Greece in 1976, and the ferry stopped at Santorini. It looked charming, and I regretted not getting off and staying for a few days.I went back to Greece in 2000, and spent a few days on Santorini and to be honest, I was a little disappointed. It was so developed and so touristy, although visually it really is stunning. But I wish that I had gone in 1976!!

yipper

Hi,
Thank you for the update. I love Greece and Santorini. I am grateful that I have been there a few times and now I can explore other islands. Although I will probable go back for one last look at the VIEW and of coarse Oia.

luvtotravel

Great report -- interesting reading for those going and those who have already been.

I also saw a big change to Santorini between my two visits in 1989 and 2000. I stayed in Imerovigli the first time and in Firostephani the second time. The island had more of a sleepy village feel to it in 1989, whereas I was happy to stay in luxury accommodations the second time. Wonderful time on both occasions, and I would return if the opportunity presented itself.

marshacarlin

We went to Santorini and stayed at Oia Mare in 1999. It remains one of the highlights of years of travel all over the world. I was so happy to hear that Oia Mare still remains a special place. Our visit there was at the end of October (out of season and we were able to get a 2 story apartment for a very reasonable rate. I also remember finding out through the internet that if we booked through a Greek Travel agent (we used Dolphin Hellas) we got something like a 15 or 25%--could that be ?) discount on the rate Maybe that was a promotion back then to support the Greek travel industry but it's worth inquiring about--they were just gearing up in Athens back then for the Olympics and no one thought they would get it together. We flew to Santorini from Athens because we didn't have the time to take a ferry. We were met at the airport by a van) arranged by Dolphin Hellas)which transported us to Oia. There we were met by a man and a dockey with a "Taxi" sign attached between his ears! I knew we were in for a treat as the donkey carried our suitcases through the streets and out the other end of the town, down some steps to the lovely Oia Mare. The best things (besides the reduced rates) about visting Santorini in October were the cooler temperatures (I hate the heat and couldn't image what it would have been like in july and August because it was very comfortable then--although I remember reading that the winds can get high in the fall--expecially a problem if you're on a ferry...we didn't have that problem at all, just day after day of brilliant BLUE skies (the same color blue as in the Greek flag0. Also there were no crowds and only a few cruise ship visitors during the middle of the day to impinge on what otherwise felt like our own private village to ramble around.
Back then I remember that many places closed the beginning of November so mostly it was us and the locals.
Anyway, it was magical and the photos of the view of the caldera out our front door and terrace, the paintings I made of those scenes are still some of my favorites.

I'm a little afraid to return after reading brotherlleloves wonderful update on the activity and number of establishments (there was only one or two small groceries where we stocked up on bread, cheese, tdziki (? yogurt and cucumber dip) and the tiniest pinkie-nail-sized sweet green grapes for lunches; but maybe the time of year you visit can make a difference intheexperience. Thanks for reminding me a fabulous place.

LoriS

Dear Brotherleelove2004,
Thanks so much for this post. My husband and I are planning our first trip to Santorini for 3 nights in May. I'm having difficulty in finalizing my hotel/rooming pick since all of the pictures are beautiful! I checked the artmaisons.gr website as you suggested, but unfortunately have ruled them out since they don't have a pool--otherwise there "Endless Blue" suite would have been a possibility due to the privacy of the terrace.

We would prefer nice size room with a private terrace (uncovered so we can enjoy the sun), a great pool, and of course, with a great view. We don't necessarily need all of the amenities of a big hotel, but we would prefer something on the more luxurious side and one that is very private. We prefer a lot of quiet and alone time rather than interaction with hotel guests and staff. And we love to sit on a private balcony/terrace with a glass of wine and some snacks and enjoy a great sunset.

Of the ones you visited, are there any that you would recommend over the others?

The ones that look the most interesting are the Residence, Katikies, and Kirini. Thanks!

brotherleelove2004

Hi Lori-

Assuming you've gone through the list of hotels I offered to come up with your short list, I think any of the 3 finalists you've mentioned will satisfy you. Truthfully, I don't know the Kirini, but they look lovely from their website. The Residence was just in the finishing stage when I toured it and everything looked great. The Katikies properties are all first-class. I wish I could recommend a specific room to you but I'm afraid you'll have to decide for yourself. One thing to consider if you have a strength problem in your feet or ankles or any sort of respiratory condition is that almost every hotel in Oia requires you to walk up and down many stairs coming and going, so keep this in mind. If you have no issues in this regard then just go with your instincts, I'm sure you'll be satisfied. You can always send emails and describe your requirements and ask for specific room recommendations.

It's too bad the Aspaki Suites at artmaisons.gr don't have a pool, it's still my fave!

Here's a link to one I didn't mention but which has a pool and a good reputation:

http://www.canaves.com/

Good luck in your search for the perfect room!

LoriS

Thanks so much for your response. The information you've provided is invaluable.

Erie03

Brotherleelove2004,

My husband and I are planning a trip to Athens, Naxos and Santorini in early September 2006. Your post was very informative. If you don't mind, I have a few questions for you or anyone else who may like to answer.

We are thinking about staying at Oia Mare (I had my heart set on Katikies, but the 2006 rates were higher than we want to spend). Since this hotel is more reasonable, we can upgrade to a nicer room. Do you think it is worth it? If so, does anyone recommend a specific type of room? We would like a nice balcony from which to enjoy the sunset and the view of the water. Is this possible? I am confused about the caldera view v. the sunset view. Is it possible to have both from Oia Mare? Is there another hotel in Oia you would recommend based on what we are looking for (balcony, sunset and water view, and pool, but the hotel doesn’t have to be ultra luxurious, just clean). We would like to keep the room under 260E per night, if possible.

On the topic of Naxos, are there any hotels you recommend here? We were hoping to stay on St. George Beach so that we could enjoy the beach but have easy access to Naxos. We would also like a pool. Most of the hotels seem extremely cheap…is this the norm for Naxos? Are they still nice places? We choose Naxos instead of Mykonos because we wanted a quieter island, but my husband would really like to see Delos. Is it possible to make a day trip to Mykonos/Delos from Naxos?

Finally, when do you recommend making reservations for our September vacation? Do places fill up early? From what I’ve read, ferry schedules won’t be out until much closer to the time. Is it ok to assume that there will be ferries running daily from Pireus to Naxos and then from Naxos to Santorini (we plan to fly back to Athens from Santorini)?

Thank you so much for all of your help. We decided not to go through a travel agent so we are booking everything ourselves. (is this advisable?)

Kerri

brotherleelove2004

Hi Kerri-

Take a look at this map of Santorini:

http://www.santorini.us/map_santorini.htm

The Oia Mare Hotel is situated right where the black dot above the word "Ammoydi" is located. The cliffside is convoluted, and it was build into a deep ravine which partially blocks the view towards the caldera. This map is correctly oriented, so what you see directly West is Thirassia and the open sea. Depending on how far to the south the sun is setting in September, your view of the sunset might be partially blocked by Thirassia, I just can't clearly remember the sun's position in the sky then. Hopefully someone else here does.

If you want a sunset view in that approximate price range there is another hotel you can consider. It's in the same general area but higher on the cliff so there's less to block the view. The Esperas Hotel is very nice, I toured it last May.

I'm sorry, I can't help you with Naxos, it's been far too long since I've been there and I stayed in a private residence.

Since Santorini is still pretty busy in September, I recommend you contact the hotel in May and ask for your reservation.

Althought it's true that the ferry schedules for September won't be posted until sometime in the summer, the run between Piraeus, Paros, Naxos, Ios and Santorini runs all year. Barring bad weather or equipment failure, there will always be a daily ferry between these islands. I believe it leaves Piraeus around 07:30 and takes about 5 hours to reach Naxos and another 2 hours to reach Santorini. There will be other ferries as well, but the morning boat is a constant.

Booking for yourself is fine. Just be cautious and recheck your bookings a couple of times. Aegean Airlines cancelled my flight to Santorini last May and added another a couple of hours later. I had been checking their website for updates and discovered this before they had notified me. I immediately sent them an email with my confirmation number and requested a seat on that new flight. They gave it to me with no questions asked and didn't charge me any more money, even though it was listed as a more expensive fare.

If you're interested in a photo of the Oia Mare give me your email address and I'll send it to you. It appears that all the rooms there have terraces or balconies.

Lee

Erie03

Lee,

Thank you SO MUCH for all of the information! It was very helpful. Based on your suggestion, I think we are leaning towards Esperas now. It looks really nice. We will probably have more questions in the future.
We can't wait for our visit to Greece!

Happy New Year!
Kerri

newport

Thanks so much for your detailed report ! I am planning about 10 days in Greece in April (5th-15th). We are flying from California and arrving Athens at 5PM. In a perfect world I would like to head straight to Santorini and hit Athens on the way out since our filght leaves early. Given our time frame what would you suggest ? I was thinking 3 days in Oia, then ??? I like the looks of Oia Mare, but wondered if you preferred Esperas or maybe ? I wanted to make sure our room is on the airey side with a grand view (any specific suggestions). The cave like description made me feel a bit confined. Anyway I have checked out your suggestions and now am trying to narrow my search and start making some reservations. Any help you can provide would be very much appreciated.

PS:I am also looking for a great beach town to add to the itinerary, you had mentioned Naxos....thanks Nili

brotherleelove2004

Hi Nili-

Since you'll be there at the very beginning of the beginning of the tourist season (many businesses won't yet be up and operating then), you don't need to make reservations wherever you choose to go in the islands. Why not start out in Oia and stay until you're inspired to move on, then hop the ferry to your next destination? This will give you the most flexibility and freedom to come and go at will. When you're ready to leave Santorini call ahead to wherever you've decided to go and make a reservation. That way you aren't tied to any schedule except the one you make that day. You ca buy an OTE phone card at any little market or magazine kiosk, they cost as little as 2 or 3 Euro. OTE public phones are everywhere. You will have to learn the island codes (like an area code) for your choices and dial it along with the hotel number to get through.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...ce_numerically

Although Esperas and Oia Mare have great sunset views, check out www.artmaisons.gr for a look at the Aspaki Villas. These are my current favorite rooms in Oia, they truly are wonderful. The unobstructed view is of the caldera with a partial view of the sunset. To me the view of the caldera is more appealing, and if I want to watch the sunset I just walk to that end of the village (It's a small village).

Naxos and Paros both have excellent beaches. They also have the advantage of giving you the option of flying back to Athens via Olympic Airlines so you don't have to backtrack to Santorini. But if you don't mind backtracking, Aegean is offering round-trip flights from Athens for 74 euro plus tax if you buy it now, an excellent bargain. There's a 6:30 P.M. flight to Santorini, so you'll have plenty of time to get through Passport control, baggage claim and customs to make that flight.

http://www.aegean-air.gr/aegeanen/home/