Trip Report- Madrid and Seville.
May 30th, 2007, 06:32 AM
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Trip Report- Madrid and Seville.
My husband and I recently took a trip to Madrid and Seville and we had a fabulous time. Instead of going through and listing what we did each day I'm just going to group what we did by city to save some time and some typing.
Madrid May 11-14,17-18
Hotel-
Hotel Gran Canarias- I really enjoyed the location of this hotel away from the hustle and bustle of the Sol and the Gran Via but still within convenient walking distance to all of the sights we wanted to see. The view of the Neptune fountain at night can't be beat and the rooms were very comfortable.
Prado Museum-We went on Sunday when it was free, and we were far from the only people who thought that was a good idea. The lines were long, but moved quickly. Having been to the Louvre I was somewhat underwhelmed here, but that may also be due in part to the massive crowds. I think I would have enjoyed this museum much more if it had been less crowded.
Palacio Real-very regal baroque style palace, my husband commented that we need more things decorated in gold here in the United States. I was a bit disappointed that we were unable to take pictures inside though. The highlight for me here was the armory which was filled with all different kinds of suits of armor. We also enjoyed the adjacent garden.
Park Buen Retiro- This was my favorite place in all of Madrid and a fantastic place to people watch. In addition to being a lovely place to walk we came across a lot of free entertainment including a jazz vocalist, a puppet show and for San Isidro a ballet performance out on the lake. My favorite performance though was catching a group of young girls break out into impromtu flamenco dancing.
Sol/Gran Via- We walked through the Sol area our first afternoon in Madrid in search of something to eat and I was immediately overwhelmed by the crowds of people. It was quite intense. The Gran Via was also crowded but not wall to wall people as the Sol was.
Barrio de Las Letras/ Plaza de Santa Ana- We spent a lot of time here wandering through the narrow streets and eating at the wonderful tapas bars
Food
Breakfast was usually coffee and a croissant or muffin at Starbucks or a small cafe near our hotel.
Larrizan-Basque style pinxtos which were delicious. Menu del Dia included drink, 4 pinxtos and an entree for 9.50E and was far too much for one of us to eat. After this we decided just to share several tapas.
Casa Camu- casual modern tapas near Plaza Santa Ana.2 sangria, 1 saltienes ( egg potato dish) and 1 tosta with lobster totaled 13 E
Vinoteca Barbarecha- we ate here twice, great service and food. The tortilla and croquettes were my favorite. 2 glasses of wine and 4 tapas totaled 15 E.
Cervezeria Alemana- Plaza de Santa Ana. This one is in all the guide books and for good reason. Nice view of the plaza and good albondigas. 2 glasses of Sangria, 1 chorizo bocadillo and albondigas totaled 12 E.
Madrid May 11-14,17-18
Hotel-
Hotel Gran Canarias- I really enjoyed the location of this hotel away from the hustle and bustle of the Sol and the Gran Via but still within convenient walking distance to all of the sights we wanted to see. The view of the Neptune fountain at night can't be beat and the rooms were very comfortable.
Prado Museum-We went on Sunday when it was free, and we were far from the only people who thought that was a good idea. The lines were long, but moved quickly. Having been to the Louvre I was somewhat underwhelmed here, but that may also be due in part to the massive crowds. I think I would have enjoyed this museum much more if it had been less crowded.
Palacio Real-very regal baroque style palace, my husband commented that we need more things decorated in gold here in the United States. I was a bit disappointed that we were unable to take pictures inside though. The highlight for me here was the armory which was filled with all different kinds of suits of armor. We also enjoyed the adjacent garden.
Park Buen Retiro- This was my favorite place in all of Madrid and a fantastic place to people watch. In addition to being a lovely place to walk we came across a lot of free entertainment including a jazz vocalist, a puppet show and for San Isidro a ballet performance out on the lake. My favorite performance though was catching a group of young girls break out into impromtu flamenco dancing.
Sol/Gran Via- We walked through the Sol area our first afternoon in Madrid in search of something to eat and I was immediately overwhelmed by the crowds of people. It was quite intense. The Gran Via was also crowded but not wall to wall people as the Sol was.
Barrio de Las Letras/ Plaza de Santa Ana- We spent a lot of time here wandering through the narrow streets and eating at the wonderful tapas bars
Food
Breakfast was usually coffee and a croissant or muffin at Starbucks or a small cafe near our hotel.
Larrizan-Basque style pinxtos which were delicious. Menu del Dia included drink, 4 pinxtos and an entree for 9.50E and was far too much for one of us to eat. After this we decided just to share several tapas.
Casa Camu- casual modern tapas near Plaza Santa Ana.2 sangria, 1 saltienes ( egg potato dish) and 1 tosta with lobster totaled 13 E
Vinoteca Barbarecha- we ate here twice, great service and food. The tortilla and croquettes were my favorite. 2 glasses of wine and 4 tapas totaled 15 E.
Cervezeria Alemana- Plaza de Santa Ana. This one is in all the guide books and for good reason. Nice view of the plaza and good albondigas. 2 glasses of Sangria, 1 chorizo bocadillo and albondigas totaled 12 E.
May 30th, 2007, 07:10 AM
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Seville- May 14-17
We took the Ave train to Seville, tourist class was quite comfortable. I found the landscape between Madrid and Seville to be quite similar to northern Arizona.
Hotel
Hotel Alminar- 5 E taxi ride from Santa Justa and located near the cathedral which made it easy to find after wandering around and getting lost in the Barrio de Santa Cruz for an afternoon.The decor is modern casual but the true reason to stay here is the staff who gave wonderful recommendations for food and shopping.
Cathedral- I absolutely loved the combination of Moorish, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles. It seemed like half the country of France decided to visit the Cathedral as well today making the climb to the top of the Giralda very crowded but you are rewarded with some spectacular views after the 30 story climb.
Alcazar- Again I loved the combination of all the different architecture, but here I particularly loved the Moorish arches. The gardens here are spectacular and definitely worth a good chunk of the afternoon.
Plaza Espana- initially when we walked up here the Plaza was blocked off for what appeared to be a military ceremony so we decided to walk through Maria Luisa Park. Shade is definitely valuable during the midday sun and this park provides plenty of it. When we got back to the Plaza Espana the ceremony had cleared out and we were able to get some wonderful pictures. I absolutely loved the ceramic bridges.
Casa de la Memoria- caught a flamenco show here and this along with the Arab Baths were the highlights of my trip. While all our performers had plenty of duende I was absolutely captivated by our male dancer. That guy could move! Also, our singer for that night had recently been awarded the distinction of being "The best young flamenco singer in Seville."
Aire de Seville- some well needed relaxation after days of walking for 12-14 hours. The setting is beautiful and has you going through a series of different temperature pools as well as a jetted pool, a salt water pool and a steam room. I typically like my showers just short of scalding and the hot pool was too hot for me. After an hour and a half of relaxation my body definitely thanked me.
Triana- if you plan on buying ceramics while in Seville definitely make the trip over the bridge into Triana. The selection and the prices are much better than anything on Calle Sierpes. We purchased a large bowl with a traditional hunting motif for 37 E.
Food
Breakfast was cafe con leche and a croissant or pastry at Il Horno. 6E.
Bar Estrella- we went here(twice!) on the recommendation of our front desk staff and we are glad we did. Located in the Barrio de Santa Cruz with very few tourists. 2 glasses of wine and 4 tapas (get the croqettes and flamenquines!) 13E.
Tapas Robles- part of the famous Casa Robles. I dont remember exactly what we ordered but it was more expensive and a bit lackluster compared to other places we went. 2 glasses of wine and and 3 tapas 18E.
Bar Patanchon on Mateo Gagos. Located near the cathedral it was a little more expensive but the food and atmosphere was good. 2 sangria and a half racion each of gambas y ajillo and ham/sage croqettes 16 E.
Bar Sachrista- located right across the street from Bar Patanchon. 2 bottles of water and 2 half racions(exactly what I ate is escaping me at the moment) 14 E.
We took the Ave train to Seville, tourist class was quite comfortable. I found the landscape between Madrid and Seville to be quite similar to northern Arizona.
Hotel
Hotel Alminar- 5 E taxi ride from Santa Justa and located near the cathedral which made it easy to find after wandering around and getting lost in the Barrio de Santa Cruz for an afternoon.The decor is modern casual but the true reason to stay here is the staff who gave wonderful recommendations for food and shopping.
Cathedral- I absolutely loved the combination of Moorish, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles. It seemed like half the country of France decided to visit the Cathedral as well today making the climb to the top of the Giralda very crowded but you are rewarded with some spectacular views after the 30 story climb.
Alcazar- Again I loved the combination of all the different architecture, but here I particularly loved the Moorish arches. The gardens here are spectacular and definitely worth a good chunk of the afternoon.
Plaza Espana- initially when we walked up here the Plaza was blocked off for what appeared to be a military ceremony so we decided to walk through Maria Luisa Park. Shade is definitely valuable during the midday sun and this park provides plenty of it. When we got back to the Plaza Espana the ceremony had cleared out and we were able to get some wonderful pictures. I absolutely loved the ceramic bridges.
Casa de la Memoria- caught a flamenco show here and this along with the Arab Baths were the highlights of my trip. While all our performers had plenty of duende I was absolutely captivated by our male dancer. That guy could move! Also, our singer for that night had recently been awarded the distinction of being "The best young flamenco singer in Seville."
Aire de Seville- some well needed relaxation after days of walking for 12-14 hours. The setting is beautiful and has you going through a series of different temperature pools as well as a jetted pool, a salt water pool and a steam room. I typically like my showers just short of scalding and the hot pool was too hot for me. After an hour and a half of relaxation my body definitely thanked me.
Triana- if you plan on buying ceramics while in Seville definitely make the trip over the bridge into Triana. The selection and the prices are much better than anything on Calle Sierpes. We purchased a large bowl with a traditional hunting motif for 37 E.
Food
Breakfast was cafe con leche and a croissant or pastry at Il Horno. 6E.
Bar Estrella- we went here(twice!) on the recommendation of our front desk staff and we are glad we did. Located in the Barrio de Santa Cruz with very few tourists. 2 glasses of wine and 4 tapas (get the croqettes and flamenquines!) 13E.
Tapas Robles- part of the famous Casa Robles. I dont remember exactly what we ordered but it was more expensive and a bit lackluster compared to other places we went. 2 glasses of wine and and 3 tapas 18E.
Bar Patanchon on Mateo Gagos. Located near the cathedral it was a little more expensive but the food and atmosphere was good. 2 sangria and a half racion each of gambas y ajillo and ham/sage croqettes 16 E.
Bar Sachrista- located right across the street from Bar Patanchon. 2 bottles of water and 2 half racions(exactly what I ate is escaping me at the moment) 14 E.
May 30th, 2007, 07:20 AM
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General observations
It was difficult to find ice cream/gelato stands in Madrid (besides novelty ice creams). There is no shortage of oce cream places in Seville though. Dulce de Leche and Creme de Catalana were my favorites.
Spaniards in general are not very tall. This was especially evident watching a 6'+ tall Danish couple walking around.
I wish I had a better grasp of the language. I was able to communicate what I wanted but I had difficulty understanding others. Compared to other places in Europe I have been not as much of the population spoke English. This seemed to annoy a Finnish woman next to me at a bar who commented to me "I can't believe no one here speaks English!"
Walkers and axillary crutches were not very popular but I saw tons of forearm crutches. I am a physical therapist and I notice these kinds of things....
Souvenirs- ceramic bowl, handmade black lace fan, a bottle of Creme de Catalana (you have to love creme brulee flavored liquor!), pink and burgundy silk shawl ( not a traditional andalusian shawl though), Majorica pearl pendant and tons of pictures!
It was difficult to find ice cream/gelato stands in Madrid (besides novelty ice creams). There is no shortage of oce cream places in Seville though. Dulce de Leche and Creme de Catalana were my favorites.
Spaniards in general are not very tall. This was especially evident watching a 6'+ tall Danish couple walking around.
I wish I had a better grasp of the language. I was able to communicate what I wanted but I had difficulty understanding others. Compared to other places in Europe I have been not as much of the population spoke English. This seemed to annoy a Finnish woman next to me at a bar who commented to me "I can't believe no one here speaks English!"
Walkers and axillary crutches were not very popular but I saw tons of forearm crutches. I am a physical therapist and I notice these kinds of things....
Souvenirs- ceramic bowl, handmade black lace fan, a bottle of Creme de Catalana (you have to love creme brulee flavored liquor!), pink and burgundy silk shawl ( not a traditional andalusian shawl though), Majorica pearl pendant and tons of pictures!
May 30th, 2007, 07:34 AM
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Great trip, thanks for sharing!
Just one question regarding Madrid / Palacio Real:
You wrote that you were unable to pictures.. due to poor light, or because it was not allowed?
When I was there in March it was only forbidden to use flashlights..
Just one question regarding Madrid / Palacio Real:
You wrote that you were unable to pictures.. due to poor light, or because it was not allowed?
When I was there in March it was only forbidden to use flashlights..
(I'm Spaniard)
Jun 10th, 2007, 08:04 PM
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Thank you for the trip report! We're planning a trip next April and looking at the Gran Hotel Canarias, so I was interested to hear that the location was good. I like quieter areas as well. Was the room you had a standard or a superior,(not sure what the description is on the website, but I seem to remember that there were at least 2 catagories) and which would you recommend?
Thanks for your help and for the restaurant recommendations!
Thanks for your help and for the restaurant recommendations!
Jun 29th, 2007, 09:54 PM
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Hey there enjoying your report.
1.Do you happen to recall the name of the young singer in Seville?
2. I noticed the crutches too. I am also sensitive to this issue and noticed no one used walkers.
Also the poor access for wheelchairs.
3. Re Flash photos. We were told in some places no flash allowed. When we asked if ok to take photos wothout flash they said ok no prob. But later a gaurd at the same place would say no to that too. So case by case.
1.Do you happen to recall the name of the young singer in Seville?
2. I noticed the crutches too. I am also sensitive to this issue and noticed no one used walkers.
Also the poor access for wheelchairs.
3. Re Flash photos. We were told in some places no flash allowed. When we asked if ok to take photos wothout flash they said ok no prob. But later a gaurd at the same place would say no to that too. So case by case.
Jun 30th, 2007, 04:08 AM
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Thanks for the report. I was in Seville in March and am heading to Madrid on Monday!!!! How did you get around in Madrid, did you take the metro at all and if so how was it? How did you get from the airport to the city center? Any other tips you can think of I'd love to hear. I really agree with everything you said about Seville, so apparently we have similar traveling styles. Did you enjoy Madrid as much as Seville?
Re the forearm cruth - last lear in Barcelona my sister in law twisted her ankle on some steps so I went to the local pharmacy and got her a forearm crutch. She says it's her best souvenier. Plus, the crutch and an ace bandage came to €9. What a bargain.
Re the forearm cruth - last lear in Barcelona my sister in law twisted her ankle on some steps so I went to the local pharmacy and got her a forearm crutch. She says it's her best souvenier. Plus, the crutch and an ace bandage came to €9. What a bargain.
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