Trip Report - Verona, Venice, Bologna, Rome
Jan 20th, 2009, 05:24 AM
#1
Original Poster
Trip Report - Verona, Venice, Bologna, Rome
Author: basingstoke2
Date: 01/20/2009, 09:18 am
My previous thread on this trip was poorly titled, not well conveying the overall trip report aspect. So, I am moving what was already written about Verona to this new thread and will add the rest of the trip to this thread instead.
Verona, part one - this one will be short - more on Verona later:
So, after an easy 7 Euro per person bus transfer from the airport to the train station and an uneventful train ride, we arrived in Verona and took a taxi from the train station to the Hotel Torcolo. The Taxi fare was about 10 Euro since it was New Year's day (night actually). The Hotel Torcolo is located in a tiny square of its own about a minute walk from Piazza Bra. It was a nice location. The day staff had already left. After checking out our room which was basic but nice and very clean, we asked the night person to recommend a nearby restaurant since we were starving by that time. He said that the one just across the square, no more than 50 feet from the hotel was very good and not expensive. He also said that our waiter would be a fellow named Paulo (sp?)and to mention that we were sent by the hotel. The restaurant is called "Nostro Azzurro." Indeed, there was only one waiter scurrying about. The place was almost full, most customers appearing to be locals and the ambiance was very nice. The menu had a lot of variety and 2 pages of Pizza. The waiter came over and feeling foolish we asked if he was Paulo and that the Torcolo sent us. He was indeed Paulo, and although my menu Italian is pretty good, his English was excellent. We skipped antipasto and opted for a single dish because of the hour. I had the tortellini de zucca (stuffed with pumpkin) and Mi Chica ordered the pasta with smoked salmon sauce. Both were really excellent. We had a half liter of the house white wine that was perfect. Espresso was served with a plate of tiny delicious biscotti. And SURPRISE Paulo brought us both a very fine limoncello as a free welcoming drink. We noted that we would have to return there at least once before moving on to Venice. After leaving the Nostro Azzurro, we walked over to the Piazza Bra, admiring the arena that was lit up and then took a walk down Via Mazzini window shopping in the very upscale shops. When we were sufficiently numbed by the cold, we returned to the Torcolo.
Next - more Verona - we buy the Verona card and for us it was a good value.
Author: basingstoke2
Date: 01/20/2009, 09:20 am
Date: 01/18/2009, 02:13 pm
Verona is a nice place. A really nice place, and I don't think the common half to one day run through does it or the traveler justice. We had intended to do a day trip to Mantova during our Verona stay, but after losing a day because of the airline snafu and all of things to do in Verona, we skipped that. My earlier thead describes our arrival, the Hotel Torcolo and the wonderful restaurant, the Nastro Azzurro.
We bought the Verona card and used it over the next few days to see: The Arena; Torre dei Lamberti; Casa di Giulietta; Tomba di Giulietta; Teatro Romano; Museo Lapidario; Museo di Castelvecchio; and, various Chiesi.
A little more about the Hotel Torcolo. The rooms are basic, clean and nice. The heart of the hotel however are the two sweet old ladies, Sylvia and Diana who own the hotel and Caterina, who is usually on in the afternoon. They will knock themselves out to suggest things to see and do as well as places to eat. They seem to get joy and pleasure in assuring a good stay for their guests. Sylvia said that when she retires, she will just sit in Piazza Bra and give advice to tourists. I can believe that.
Our first day was cloudy, and cold. Verona had a recent snow and there was still some on the ground. There was an ice skating rink set up in the Piazza Bra and together with the festive lights, it made for a lively atmosphere. The recent snow made our visit to the arena a slippery adventure.
Verona is a wonderful walking town. We took the first of what were many walks down the upscale Via Mazzini to the Piazza Erbe. Piazza Erbe appears to be the heart of the city and is filled with stalls selling all sorts of things, from food stuffs to tacky things for tourists. We shared a cone of hot chestnuts as we walked. Adjacent to the Piazza Erbe is the Piazza dei Signori AKA Piazza Dante, for the statue of same located there.
As would become our pattern, we spent a lot of time just walking around and taking pictures of what is a very photogenic city.
Dinner on the evening of our first full day was at a restaurant just off the Piazza dei Signori called Giulietta and Romeo. We chose that place since we wanted to sample some typical Veronese dishes that we cant get at home. Sylvia said the restaurant would be good for that sort of thing, but was not necessarily her favorite place. Arriving at the restaurant, we could see that it was quite popular and there was little English to be heard. Keeping to food theme of things that we can't get at home, my primi piatti was a pasta with a sauce made with donkey meat and my secondi was horse meat with polenta. Mi Chica, who doesn't eat meat, thought I was crazy, and ordered a polenta with gorgonzola. Both of my dishes were ok but not things I would order again. Mi Chica's dish was something else. The polenta was fine, but was overwhelmed with two huge slabs of warm gorganzola. One has to be a real gorganola fan to enjoy that dish.
Tomorrow we will do the museo thing.
Date: 01/20/2009, 09:18 am
My previous thread on this trip was poorly titled, not well conveying the overall trip report aspect. So, I am moving what was already written about Verona to this new thread and will add the rest of the trip to this thread instead.
Verona, part one - this one will be short - more on Verona later:
So, after an easy 7 Euro per person bus transfer from the airport to the train station and an uneventful train ride, we arrived in Verona and took a taxi from the train station to the Hotel Torcolo. The Taxi fare was about 10 Euro since it was New Year's day (night actually). The Hotel Torcolo is located in a tiny square of its own about a minute walk from Piazza Bra. It was a nice location. The day staff had already left. After checking out our room which was basic but nice and very clean, we asked the night person to recommend a nearby restaurant since we were starving by that time. He said that the one just across the square, no more than 50 feet from the hotel was very good and not expensive. He also said that our waiter would be a fellow named Paulo (sp?)and to mention that we were sent by the hotel. The restaurant is called "Nostro Azzurro." Indeed, there was only one waiter scurrying about. The place was almost full, most customers appearing to be locals and the ambiance was very nice. The menu had a lot of variety and 2 pages of Pizza. The waiter came over and feeling foolish we asked if he was Paulo and that the Torcolo sent us. He was indeed Paulo, and although my menu Italian is pretty good, his English was excellent. We skipped antipasto and opted for a single dish because of the hour. I had the tortellini de zucca (stuffed with pumpkin) and Mi Chica ordered the pasta with smoked salmon sauce. Both were really excellent. We had a half liter of the house white wine that was perfect. Espresso was served with a plate of tiny delicious biscotti. And SURPRISE Paulo brought us both a very fine limoncello as a free welcoming drink. We noted that we would have to return there at least once before moving on to Venice. After leaving the Nostro Azzurro, we walked over to the Piazza Bra, admiring the arena that was lit up and then took a walk down Via Mazzini window shopping in the very upscale shops. When we were sufficiently numbed by the cold, we returned to the Torcolo.
Next - more Verona - we buy the Verona card and for us it was a good value.
Author: basingstoke2
Date: 01/20/2009, 09:20 am
Date: 01/18/2009, 02:13 pm
Verona is a nice place. A really nice place, and I don't think the common half to one day run through does it or the traveler justice. We had intended to do a day trip to Mantova during our Verona stay, but after losing a day because of the airline snafu and all of things to do in Verona, we skipped that. My earlier thead describes our arrival, the Hotel Torcolo and the wonderful restaurant, the Nastro Azzurro.
We bought the Verona card and used it over the next few days to see: The Arena; Torre dei Lamberti; Casa di Giulietta; Tomba di Giulietta; Teatro Romano; Museo Lapidario; Museo di Castelvecchio; and, various Chiesi.
A little more about the Hotel Torcolo. The rooms are basic, clean and nice. The heart of the hotel however are the two sweet old ladies, Sylvia and Diana who own the hotel and Caterina, who is usually on in the afternoon. They will knock themselves out to suggest things to see and do as well as places to eat. They seem to get joy and pleasure in assuring a good stay for their guests. Sylvia said that when she retires, she will just sit in Piazza Bra and give advice to tourists. I can believe that.
Our first day was cloudy, and cold. Verona had a recent snow and there was still some on the ground. There was an ice skating rink set up in the Piazza Bra and together with the festive lights, it made for a lively atmosphere. The recent snow made our visit to the arena a slippery adventure.
Verona is a wonderful walking town. We took the first of what were many walks down the upscale Via Mazzini to the Piazza Erbe. Piazza Erbe appears to be the heart of the city and is filled with stalls selling all sorts of things, from food stuffs to tacky things for tourists. We shared a cone of hot chestnuts as we walked. Adjacent to the Piazza Erbe is the Piazza dei Signori AKA Piazza Dante, for the statue of same located there.
As would become our pattern, we spent a lot of time just walking around and taking pictures of what is a very photogenic city.
Dinner on the evening of our first full day was at a restaurant just off the Piazza dei Signori called Giulietta and Romeo. We chose that place since we wanted to sample some typical Veronese dishes that we cant get at home. Sylvia said the restaurant would be good for that sort of thing, but was not necessarily her favorite place. Arriving at the restaurant, we could see that it was quite popular and there was little English to be heard. Keeping to food theme of things that we can't get at home, my primi piatti was a pasta with a sauce made with donkey meat and my secondi was horse meat with polenta. Mi Chica, who doesn't eat meat, thought I was crazy, and ordered a polenta with gorgonzola. Both of my dishes were ok but not things I would order again. Mi Chica's dish was something else. The polenta was fine, but was overwhelmed with two huge slabs of warm gorganzola. One has to be a real gorganola fan to enjoy that dish.
Tomorrow we will do the museo thing.
Jan 20th, 2009, 05:28 AM
#2
Original Poster
Date: 01/19/2009, 06:53 pm
Since our luggage was yet to come, we finished the second of our full days by taking advantage of the January sales to get some necessary necessaries. With the cold weather and freezing fog in mind, Mi Chica skipped the lovely lingerie in favor of some long johns, sox, extra gloves, pants and shirt. She chose for me a fedora because she thought it gave me a snappy Sopranos look - I think the real reason is that she doesn't care for my beret. Shopping for undies for myself was a bit of a mystery since the Italian sizes did not match any of my conversions. Rather than cms or s, m, l, xl etc they were labled 3,4,5,6,7 and other than the obvious that a 7 is bigger than a 4, equivalent sizes were guesswork . The packages were also well sealed and the style was unknown. When I got back to the hotel and tried them out, I found that I had bought something akin to speedos cut high on the side.
About some of the sites we visited: We much enjoyed Castelvecchio and the walk there. On the way we stopped at a little Chinese restaurant (G-d forgive us) and had a very decent and inexpensive lunch. The walk from Piazza Bra to Castelvecchio passes some interesting stalls along the street. Castelvecchio in addition to the structure itself, has a very interesting mixture of antiquities and paintings making for a most pleasant few hours. The bridge views make for some great photo ops as do the distant snow capped mountains.
The Teatro Romano is as would be expected, a Roman theater with wonderful city views. Attached is the archeological museum - a must see.
The Museo Lapidario was also interesting and located at the city gates - Piazza Bra.
The Torre dei Lamberti is the tower at the Piazza Erbe and gives a commanding city view. Although the Verona card includes admission to the tower, use of the elevator is extra. Be advised though that the elevator only goes about 2/3 of the way up. Mi Chica was standing next to the bell when it was chimed. I think that she is still vibrating but her hearing has recovered.
What can you say about the Casa and Tomba di Giulietta other than they make good tourist attractions. The Casa of course has THE balcony where young ladies (and not so young) can reach out their arms to their Romeos taking photos below. We saw the museum since it was included in the card. It is nothing I would pay the full entrance fee for but had some items of interest. The "Tomb" is a good walk across town and the attached museum is more of the archeological variety and has some interest. At the Tomb itself in a sufficiently spooky room one can watch would be Giuliettas climbing into the sarcophagus to be photographed in full tragic pose. This can be amusing if you arrive in the right frame of mind.
Some more on restaurants. As you can see, our taste runs to where locals frequent and we usually find good food at decent prices. One restaurant that should be on your list in addition to the Nostro Azzurro is the Pere D'Oro, a family run place not far from the Teatro Romano. They specialize in Pasta that Mom makes while Dad manages and the kids wait tables. You may need reservations since they were turning people away while we were there.
Next - We celebrate our Verona visit with a last meal at Nostro Azzurro and an unplanned hitch that results in a visit to the "Pronto Sorcoso."
Since our luggage was yet to come, we finished the second of our full days by taking advantage of the January sales to get some necessary necessaries. With the cold weather and freezing fog in mind, Mi Chica skipped the lovely lingerie in favor of some long johns, sox, extra gloves, pants and shirt. She chose for me a fedora because she thought it gave me a snappy Sopranos look - I think the real reason is that she doesn't care for my beret. Shopping for undies for myself was a bit of a mystery since the Italian sizes did not match any of my conversions. Rather than cms or s, m, l, xl etc they were labled 3,4,5,6,7 and other than the obvious that a 7 is bigger than a 4, equivalent sizes were guesswork . The packages were also well sealed and the style was unknown. When I got back to the hotel and tried them out, I found that I had bought something akin to speedos cut high on the side.
About some of the sites we visited: We much enjoyed Castelvecchio and the walk there. On the way we stopped at a little Chinese restaurant (G-d forgive us) and had a very decent and inexpensive lunch. The walk from Piazza Bra to Castelvecchio passes some interesting stalls along the street. Castelvecchio in addition to the structure itself, has a very interesting mixture of antiquities and paintings making for a most pleasant few hours. The bridge views make for some great photo ops as do the distant snow capped mountains.
The Teatro Romano is as would be expected, a Roman theater with wonderful city views. Attached is the archeological museum - a must see.
The Museo Lapidario was also interesting and located at the city gates - Piazza Bra.
The Torre dei Lamberti is the tower at the Piazza Erbe and gives a commanding city view. Although the Verona card includes admission to the tower, use of the elevator is extra. Be advised though that the elevator only goes about 2/3 of the way up. Mi Chica was standing next to the bell when it was chimed. I think that she is still vibrating but her hearing has recovered.
What can you say about the Casa and Tomba di Giulietta other than they make good tourist attractions. The Casa of course has THE balcony where young ladies (and not so young) can reach out their arms to their Romeos taking photos below. We saw the museum since it was included in the card. It is nothing I would pay the full entrance fee for but had some items of interest. The "Tomb" is a good walk across town and the attached museum is more of the archeological variety and has some interest. At the Tomb itself in a sufficiently spooky room one can watch would be Giuliettas climbing into the sarcophagus to be photographed in full tragic pose. This can be amusing if you arrive in the right frame of mind.
Some more on restaurants. As you can see, our taste runs to where locals frequent and we usually find good food at decent prices. One restaurant that should be on your list in addition to the Nostro Azzurro is the Pere D'Oro, a family run place not far from the Teatro Romano. They specialize in Pasta that Mom makes while Dad manages and the kids wait tables. You may need reservations since they were turning people away while we were there.
Next - We celebrate our Verona visit with a last meal at Nostro Azzurro and an unplanned hitch that results in a visit to the "Pronto Sorcoso."
Jan 20th, 2009, 10:20 AM
#3
Original Poster
Our last day and night in Verona was a good one, our luggage having finally arrived. We had a late last dinner at Nostro Azzurro and spent some time talking to our waiter - who is also the manager- Paulo, after all of the other guests had left. He is a most interesting fellow and we learned more about the city and about the restaurant business.
That night I noticed what seemed to be a slight rash on my leg but gave it no thought. However by morning, that is the morning we were to leave for Venice with a short stop in Padova, is was clear to me that I had come down with cellulitis - an infection of the skin that has the potential to be quite serious. I had it once before as result of having to wear wet combat boots during a 2 week long field exercise. At that time it was treated with a week of intravenous antibiotics. With thoughts of a ruined vacation going through my mind I asked Sylvia, who was at the desk of Torcolo if she could recommend a doc. She recommended the local hospital's "Pronto Sorcoso," sort of an emergency room, that is a place where one can be seen promptly. Sylvia called me a taxi who delivered me to the hospital. Entering, I found a waiting room of people and a registration desk, luckily manned by a fellow whose English was a heck of lot better than my Italian. He told me to take a seat and wait to be called by name. To my surprise, I was called in under 5 minutes. A major difference in how it worked compared to hospitals in the US is that I was then seen by a doctor only to be given a provisional diagnosis and assigned to a clinic. This he did, gave me paperwork and directions to the clinic that I needed. The hospital has a very large campus with many buildings and it took nearly 1/2 hour to walk to and find my building and clinic. There I was given a number which was also called qiuickly. The doctor diagnosed my leg as having the cellulitis as I thought and wrote an antibiotic prescription. The paper work had to be returned to the "Pronto Sorcoso" which was another long hike. The fee? Zero, zilch, nada. I filled the prescription at a Farmacia near the hotel and off we were to Venice, hoping that it would work or at least keep the infection from spreading. Because of the time spent, it was no longer practical to stop at Padova, so we went straight on to Venice.
Next - A great hotel find and another good dinner. Mi Chica changes her mind.
That night I noticed what seemed to be a slight rash on my leg but gave it no thought. However by morning, that is the morning we were to leave for Venice with a short stop in Padova, is was clear to me that I had come down with cellulitis - an infection of the skin that has the potential to be quite serious. I had it once before as result of having to wear wet combat boots during a 2 week long field exercise. At that time it was treated with a week of intravenous antibiotics. With thoughts of a ruined vacation going through my mind I asked Sylvia, who was at the desk of Torcolo if she could recommend a doc. She recommended the local hospital's "Pronto Sorcoso," sort of an emergency room, that is a place where one can be seen promptly. Sylvia called me a taxi who delivered me to the hospital. Entering, I found a waiting room of people and a registration desk, luckily manned by a fellow whose English was a heck of lot better than my Italian. He told me to take a seat and wait to be called by name. To my surprise, I was called in under 5 minutes. A major difference in how it worked compared to hospitals in the US is that I was then seen by a doctor only to be given a provisional diagnosis and assigned to a clinic. This he did, gave me paperwork and directions to the clinic that I needed. The hospital has a very large campus with many buildings and it took nearly 1/2 hour to walk to and find my building and clinic. There I was given a number which was also called qiuickly. The doctor diagnosed my leg as having the cellulitis as I thought and wrote an antibiotic prescription. The paper work had to be returned to the "Pronto Sorcoso" which was another long hike. The fee? Zero, zilch, nada. I filled the prescription at a Farmacia near the hotel and off we were to Venice, hoping that it would work or at least keep the infection from spreading. Because of the time spent, it was no longer practical to stop at Padova, so we went straight on to Venice.
Next - A great hotel find and another good dinner. Mi Chica changes her mind.
Jan 20th, 2009, 10:36 AM
#4
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It sounds like you had a good trip despite the lost luggage and the cellulitis.
I also once had cellulitis in my leg. I had twisted my ankle when walking through a manured lawn, and I think somehow that must have been sufficient. In your case, what do you think caused the reoccurrence?
I also once had cellulitis in my leg. I had twisted my ankle when walking through a manured lawn, and I think somehow that must have been sufficient. In your case, what do you think caused the reoccurrence?
Jan 20th, 2009, 05:22 PM
#8
Original Poster
WillTravel - Cellulitis happens when bacteria, usually the normal flora that lives on your skin enters through some sort of break, even a scratch. Routinely your immune system handles it, but sometimes it doesn't. This time, I have no idea where it came from - last time (about 15 years ago) it was obvious. It can be a nasty thing without treatment so is not to be taken lightly.
Thanks for the kind remarks.
Thanks for the kind remarks.
Jan 21st, 2009, 07:32 AM
#11
Original Poster
We included Venice in this trip because although I have been to Venice a number of times with the kids, our first visit with DW AKA Mi Chica was not very succesful. Translation, she did not like Venice at all. It was only for 2 days then in the summer. It was hot, crowded, a crummy hotel and swarms of mosquitos. After "working on her for some years that Venice is really a nice place, she agreed to try it again on this trip when it would not be so hot and crowded.
I searched the internet for a hotel that would be in my projected price range and came up with a place called "Palazzo Guardi." Trip advisor reviews although mostly positive, were mixed but the negatives were not the things that I thought to be very important. The web-site pictures showed very attractive rooms (when do they not?). The description was so full of superlatives and hyperbole that it was in truth somewhat off putting. The clincher for me was the Dorsoduro location, a stones throw from the Academia. The price was right too. An unbelievable 70 Euro/night including breakfast. Email communication with the hotel were quick and a good sign of a place that cares.
Arriving in Venice, we bought 72 hour vaporetto passes and quickly found the hotel down the expected very narrow alley. The elevator had enough room for one person and one suitcase or two people without a suitcase, but only if they embraced. This is not an exageration. Thus it took a bit to get our luggage up to the reception on the 3rd floor. The reception area was very nice and the desk staff friendly.
All of the hotel rooms open to the reception/breakfast area. Our room, number 2 although not large, was more than adequate and was decorated in "traditional" Venice decor. That is padded damask walls, Murano glass fixtures, painted furniture. All looked new, including a very modern bath. After settling in, I mentioned to the fellow at the desk that if I had known that some rooms had a canal view, I would have requested one. He said that it would not be possible for that night, but room 4 overlooking the San Trovaso canal would be available for the 3 following nights and that we could be moved there at no additional cost. We jumped at that and found room 4 to be considerably larger than 2 with a wonderful view, not only of the canal, but a church across the canal and if you crane your neck, you can see the gondola workshop. If you go to the hotel's web-site, be assured that rooms look EXACTLY as depicted. Ours was done in pink damask and because it was large, also had a sofa. Rooms 4 and 5 are identical in size and view. If staying at the Pallazo Guardi, request one of those.
Since the rooms opened to the breakfast hall we thought that noise might be a problem but it was not. In fact the only outside noise head were the church bells chiming and we liked that. Breakfast was fine. Yogurts, cold cereals, pastry, breads, croissants, coffee and tea and fruit salad that although canned, was welcome.
Next, dinner and exploring Venice with new eyes.
I searched the internet for a hotel that would be in my projected price range and came up with a place called "Palazzo Guardi." Trip advisor reviews although mostly positive, were mixed but the negatives were not the things that I thought to be very important. The web-site pictures showed very attractive rooms (when do they not?). The description was so full of superlatives and hyperbole that it was in truth somewhat off putting. The clincher for me was the Dorsoduro location, a stones throw from the Academia. The price was right too. An unbelievable 70 Euro/night including breakfast. Email communication with the hotel were quick and a good sign of a place that cares.
Arriving in Venice, we bought 72 hour vaporetto passes and quickly found the hotel down the expected very narrow alley. The elevator had enough room for one person and one suitcase or two people without a suitcase, but only if they embraced. This is not an exageration. Thus it took a bit to get our luggage up to the reception on the 3rd floor. The reception area was very nice and the desk staff friendly.
All of the hotel rooms open to the reception/breakfast area. Our room, number 2 although not large, was more than adequate and was decorated in "traditional" Venice decor. That is padded damask walls, Murano glass fixtures, painted furniture. All looked new, including a very modern bath. After settling in, I mentioned to the fellow at the desk that if I had known that some rooms had a canal view, I would have requested one. He said that it would not be possible for that night, but room 4 overlooking the San Trovaso canal would be available for the 3 following nights and that we could be moved there at no additional cost. We jumped at that and found room 4 to be considerably larger than 2 with a wonderful view, not only of the canal, but a church across the canal and if you crane your neck, you can see the gondola workshop. If you go to the hotel's web-site, be assured that rooms look EXACTLY as depicted. Ours was done in pink damask and because it was large, also had a sofa. Rooms 4 and 5 are identical in size and view. If staying at the Pallazo Guardi, request one of those.
Since the rooms opened to the breakfast hall we thought that noise might be a problem but it was not. In fact the only outside noise head were the church bells chiming and we liked that. Breakfast was fine. Yogurts, cold cereals, pastry, breads, croissants, coffee and tea and fruit salad that although canned, was welcome.
Next, dinner and exploring Venice with new eyes.
Jan 22nd, 2009, 04:12 PM
#12
Original Poster
It is the day of la Befana, a special Italian holiday that I had never heard of. La Befana is a witch, complete with broomstick, that like Santa Claus flies to homes and down chimneys bringing gifts to children that have been good and lumps of coal to those who have not. Because of the holiday, a fair number of shops were closed. Little la Befana dolls were sold all over. We walked from Academia towards Rialto with the Ghetto as our final destination. As we reached the Rialto Bridge, we saw a crowd and heard singers. There was a chorus next to bridge, dressed in blue coats, red scarves and straw hats singing songs accommpanied by two mandolins. A gondola went by with 6 gondoliers who raised their oars straight up in a salute to the chorus and crowd. It was all a wonderful moment and we hung around for about 10 minutes taking it all in and recording the singing before moving on.
Reaching the Ghetto, stopping in shops on the way, we went through the museum and bought a number of murano glass pieces at a nearby shop on the square. One reason for visiting the Ghetto is that years earlier, we had ordered a custom decorated wine cup from an artist whose shop was there. At that time we designed the cup together with symbols and family names worked into the design. The cup is destined to become a family heirloom. We were curious to see if the artist was still there. As it turned out, the owner of the place not only knew him, but had photos of him and his studio. He had retired a few years ago. BTW we found the prices at the shop in the Ghetto to be for the most part much better for same or similar items elsewhere in Venice or on Murano.
Later that afternoon, we took the boat out to Murano and did some more shopping for glass. I also wanted to show Mi Chica the factory (Mazega sp?) where I purchased our dining room chandelier although I knew it would be closed. If you haven't guessed, we are fans of Murano glass. We visited lots of shops and stopped in a local bar for a quick bite and something hot to drink - it was really cold on Murano.
On the way back, our boat broke down, and after limping into a stop, another was brought to pick up the passengers, and all in all, it took well over an hour to get back.
Dinner was at the same place we ate the first night- Taverna San Trovaso tucked away in a little corner on the canal. The Taverna is very popular for good reason and we were fortunate to get a table. To find the Taverna, simply with your back to the Acedemia stop, turn right and follow the street around to the San Trovaso canal. Walk a few feet and you will find it.
Next - we take the secret itineraries tour and spend the rest of the day on Burano.
Reaching the Ghetto, stopping in shops on the way, we went through the museum and bought a number of murano glass pieces at a nearby shop on the square. One reason for visiting the Ghetto is that years earlier, we had ordered a custom decorated wine cup from an artist whose shop was there. At that time we designed the cup together with symbols and family names worked into the design. The cup is destined to become a family heirloom. We were curious to see if the artist was still there. As it turned out, the owner of the place not only knew him, but had photos of him and his studio. He had retired a few years ago. BTW we found the prices at the shop in the Ghetto to be for the most part much better for same or similar items elsewhere in Venice or on Murano.
Later that afternoon, we took the boat out to Murano and did some more shopping for glass. I also wanted to show Mi Chica the factory (Mazega sp?) where I purchased our dining room chandelier although I knew it would be closed. If you haven't guessed, we are fans of Murano glass. We visited lots of shops and stopped in a local bar for a quick bite and something hot to drink - it was really cold on Murano.
On the way back, our boat broke down, and after limping into a stop, another was brought to pick up the passengers, and all in all, it took well over an hour to get back.
Dinner was at the same place we ate the first night- Taverna San Trovaso tucked away in a little corner on the canal. The Taverna is very popular for good reason and we were fortunate to get a table. To find the Taverna, simply with your back to the Acedemia stop, turn right and follow the street around to the San Trovaso canal. Walk a few feet and you will find it.
Next - we take the secret itineraries tour and spend the rest of the day on Burano.
Jan 23rd, 2009, 07:09 AM
#14
Original Poster
Leely - it does sound like you would like the Palazzo Guardi. Even the miniscule elevator could be one of those turn a lemon in lemonade opportunities. Rather than climbing the stairs, taking the elevator up the third floor after a day enjoying the romance of Venice, locked in a looong embrace with your SO, does give the rest of the evening a great start.
Jan 24th, 2009, 08:19 PM
#15
Original Poster
We had an early reservation for the secret itineraries tour of the Doges Palace. That morning was particularly cold - 2 sweaters, down jacket and wind breaker cold. Mi Chica added her Verona long johns to the outfit. The tour takes one to the upper floors and back rooms of the palace. Mostly, the offices where the business of the palace and the city took place - rather plain rooms but interesting in their own accord - and a closer look at various prison set-ups for the more well to do white collar criminal vs the common criminal. Tales of Casanova were entertaining. The SI tour is followed by visiting the palace on your own. All in all, we were happy that we took the SI tour for the more complete picture we were able to have of how the palace and city worked.
Somehow it seemed the interior of the palace was colder than outside. It felt as if the floor was sucking the heat right out of our bodies. We felt sorry for the security guards, some of whom seemed to be shivering.
What to do after freezing in the palace? How about a trip out to Burano. Although visiting Venice a number of times with the kids, Burano would be new for the both of us. The boat ride out there was most pleasant and warm. Although even colder than Venice and with a stiff wind blowing most of the time, we really enjoyed an Island that deserves the description "eye candy." We expected to see colorful buildings as advertised but the effect of all of the colors together made for extraordinary scenes. The entire island is a photographer's dream and I ran through at least a gig of my memory card. Stopping into one of the lace shops, mostly to warm up, we came away with some gifts for MIL and grandkids. The sales lady was a native of the island and we spent quite some time in the shop learning Island history - other than us, business was slow. Lunch was at a bar near the tower and hot panini and coffee hit the spot. We caught a late afternoon boat back to Venice where we just wandered and found ourselves near the train station about dinner time. For the sake of nostalgia (mine) we "dined" at Beks, sort of an Italian fast food/cafeteria type place. No high cuisine there, but filling and two can come away full and still have change from a 10 euro note. Tip, if you go there, skip the wine - it's pretty bad, even at the price. To find Beks, with your back to the station, turn left and it is about 100 yards on your left - it is the place with the blue neon sign.
Next, we shop for masks and improve the economy of Venice.
Somehow it seemed the interior of the palace was colder than outside. It felt as if the floor was sucking the heat right out of our bodies. We felt sorry for the security guards, some of whom seemed to be shivering.
What to do after freezing in the palace? How about a trip out to Burano. Although visiting Venice a number of times with the kids, Burano would be new for the both of us. The boat ride out there was most pleasant and warm. Although even colder than Venice and with a stiff wind blowing most of the time, we really enjoyed an Island that deserves the description "eye candy." We expected to see colorful buildings as advertised but the effect of all of the colors together made for extraordinary scenes. The entire island is a photographer's dream and I ran through at least a gig of my memory card. Stopping into one of the lace shops, mostly to warm up, we came away with some gifts for MIL and grandkids. The sales lady was a native of the island and we spent quite some time in the shop learning Island history - other than us, business was slow. Lunch was at a bar near the tower and hot panini and coffee hit the spot. We caught a late afternoon boat back to Venice where we just wandered and found ourselves near the train station about dinner time. For the sake of nostalgia (mine) we "dined" at Beks, sort of an Italian fast food/cafeteria type place. No high cuisine there, but filling and two can come away full and still have change from a 10 euro note. Tip, if you go there, skip the wine - it's pretty bad, even at the price. To find Beks, with your back to the station, turn left and it is about 100 yards on your left - it is the place with the blue neon sign.
Next, we shop for masks and improve the economy of Venice.
Jan 25th, 2009, 05:46 AM
#16
Original Poster
I neglected to mention that we learned upon returning from Burano, there are two routes with different timetables. One leaves you in Venice near San Marco, the other at the Fondamenta Nova (Nove?) stop. The latter stop is pretty much straight across the island from San Marco, about a 15 minute walk. Between the 2 routes, there are 2 boats leaving Burano each hour. I assume that applies to going to Burano as well.
Jan 26th, 2009, 06:56 PM
#17
Original Poster
Our mission for our last day in Venice was to find and visit some mask workshops and then have a good final dinner.
We began the day though by visiting the gondola workshop on the San Trovaso canal that we were able to see from our hotel window. The two men who were working there allowed us to see gondolas in different stages of completion and to watch them work for a while. Placing a few euro in a prominently placed "tip" jar may have helped. They were putting on the finishing touches on one using hand tools and I had the opportunity to take a goodly number of photos that I plan to soon post.
After a quick lunch on the run we set of on our quest of finding some quality mask workshops and headed off into the streets behind Piazza San Marco where I had some vague recollections of seeing some workshops on an earlier visit.
We found several small workshops that had some nice items, but nothing really special - then - we found it. It was already after dark when we came upon THE ONE. It is a place called Papier Mache Venezia - Laboratorio di Artgianato Artistico. We were transfixed looking in the window and went in. Inside an artist was painting a fabulous mask in one room, while in another room, another artist was painting an absolutely lovely ceramic plate. The place was busy with Carnival orders. The owner explained the very large, ornate (and expensive!)masks are used for parading after which the reveler switches to a smaller mask for the party. We watched the artists work and asked enough questions to be pests, but the owner was happy to explain how he makes the molds for the papier mache and showed us some molds in progress and talked about different formulas for papier mache. We also looked at some of the raw ceramic pieces waiting to be painted and fired. We fell in love with the ceramic piece being painted at the time and ordered it. We were thrilled to take pictures of our plate being born. Their ceramics were wonderful and since we were having it shipped, we added several more pieces since the shipping is the same for one piece or many, up to 10 pounds, which is a lot of ceramics. One bowl will be perfect as a centerpiece on our dining room table under the Murano glass chandelier. We eagerly await our order's arrival as I write this.
Dinner was at Al Casin dei Nobili, again in Dorsoduro and not far from our hotel. Once again we found a restaurant with great ambiance and fine food and good prices. And once again, most of the customers were locals. After an antipasto that we cleaned up, Mi Chica eating the veggie part leaving the meaty morsels for me, I had an excellent pasta dish - tortellini di zucca again, and Mi Chica went for an artichoke pizza - we shared. The tables were full and everyone seemed to be having a great time.
Back to the hotel and another long embrace riding the mini elevator to the third floor.
Tomorrow, off to Bologna. Does Bologna really have the best food in Italy. We found out quickly.
We began the day though by visiting the gondola workshop on the San Trovaso canal that we were able to see from our hotel window. The two men who were working there allowed us to see gondolas in different stages of completion and to watch them work for a while. Placing a few euro in a prominently placed "tip" jar may have helped. They were putting on the finishing touches on one using hand tools and I had the opportunity to take a goodly number of photos that I plan to soon post.
After a quick lunch on the run we set of on our quest of finding some quality mask workshops and headed off into the streets behind Piazza San Marco where I had some vague recollections of seeing some workshops on an earlier visit.
We found several small workshops that had some nice items, but nothing really special - then - we found it. It was already after dark when we came upon THE ONE. It is a place called Papier Mache Venezia - Laboratorio di Artgianato Artistico. We were transfixed looking in the window and went in. Inside an artist was painting a fabulous mask in one room, while in another room, another artist was painting an absolutely lovely ceramic plate. The place was busy with Carnival orders. The owner explained the very large, ornate (and expensive!)masks are used for parading after which the reveler switches to a smaller mask for the party. We watched the artists work and asked enough questions to be pests, but the owner was happy to explain how he makes the molds for the papier mache and showed us some molds in progress and talked about different formulas for papier mache. We also looked at some of the raw ceramic pieces waiting to be painted and fired. We fell in love with the ceramic piece being painted at the time and ordered it. We were thrilled to take pictures of our plate being born. Their ceramics were wonderful and since we were having it shipped, we added several more pieces since the shipping is the same for one piece or many, up to 10 pounds, which is a lot of ceramics. One bowl will be perfect as a centerpiece on our dining room table under the Murano glass chandelier. We eagerly await our order's arrival as I write this.
Dinner was at Al Casin dei Nobili, again in Dorsoduro and not far from our hotel. Once again we found a restaurant with great ambiance and fine food and good prices. And once again, most of the customers were locals. After an antipasto that we cleaned up, Mi Chica eating the veggie part leaving the meaty morsels for me, I had an excellent pasta dish - tortellini di zucca again, and Mi Chica went for an artichoke pizza - we shared. The tables were full and everyone seemed to be having a great time.
Back to the hotel and another long embrace riding the mini elevator to the third floor.
Tomorrow, off to Bologna. Does Bologna really have the best food in Italy. We found out quickly.
Jan 26th, 2009, 07:00 PM
#18
"Does Bologna really have the best food in Italy. We found out quickly."
Well, you've certainly whetted my appetite for the next installment. I've never been to Bologna and cannot wait to read about it.
Meanwhile, all these enticing Italy reports have me compulsively checking airfares for May...
Well, you've certainly whetted my appetite for the next installment. I've never been to Bologna and cannot wait to read about it.
Meanwhile, all these enticing Italy reports have me compulsively checking airfares for May...
