Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Trip Report - Positano, Ravello, Florence

Search

Trip Report - Positano, Ravello, Florence

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 6th, 2004, 01:59 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Trip Report - Positano, Ravello, Florence

Italy trip report: (Disclaimer - I am sick while writing this so am not feeling very eloquent or descriptive or funny/cute. Please ask for further description as you have questions!!)

Friday Sept 24: 5:10 flight from Dulles - the security line at Dulles was atrocious!! It has gotten so much longer in the past few months- it wrapped around half the building, but we actually got through in about 30 min. My friend who flew out of Dulles 6 days after us waited an hour and a half in line!! The flight from Dulles to Paris was uneventful, besides the fact that my husband and I were not seated next to each other. We flew on an Air France flight that was also a Delta Flight; I made the mistake the night before of calling Delta to book seats. When we arrived at the airport the next day, not only did we not have the seats we had been given the night before, but we didn?t have any seats! It wasn?t until we boarded the plane that we got seats assigned. We were able to negotiate with our fellow passengers to at least sit one in front of the other. Neither of us were able to sleep very well. When I had flown to Australia I took melatonin to help me sleep, which I think worked, but this time it didn?t seem to help at all. We arrived in Paris at 6:30, connected at 10:00ish for our flight to Naples.

At the Naples airport, we walked out of the front entrance to easily find the bus to take us to the train station. I think it was 2E per person, pay on the bus. Where they dropped us off, it was not immediately obvious which direction to go to the station, but after looking around a little, we walked about 500feet to the right to find the station. After first buying the wrong train tickets, we finally figured out the correct tickets for the short train ride to Ercolano, site of the Herculaneum ruins. These are (from what I hear) better preserved ruins than Pompeii, due to their having been covered with volcanic mud vs. ash.

At Ercolano, we walked downhill about 10 minutes to the site, checked our bags (free, seemed secure). We were starving by this point, and I was delighted to pop into a little store on the main street in Ercolano and buy 2 sandwiches with mozzarella and prosciutto ham and a coke, all for only 5E. We sat and ate on one of the benches that line the hill leading down to the ruins. A few pigeons flocked over to us, and at one point my husband threw a piece of bread down to them. We were surprised when one of them took it in his mouth, and flung it right back up into my lap!! It was very funny.

The Herculaneum ruins were impressive and I?m very glad we went, although after about an hour and a half we were pooped and running on no sleep so we decided to head on down the road. We grabbed our packs, I tried to tip the baggage attendant (no! Its free!) And we trekked back up that hill. I had read here that you can always catch a cab back up the hill, but visually it looks like such a short distance I felt like we would have been sissies taking a 2 minute cab ride. So we walked up hill with our packs - the first of many reminders this week about what poor shape I am in for a 30year old female. Pitiful.

The trains from Ercolano to Positano are frequent, and we did not have to wait long for a train. It was about 45min-1hour further to Sorrento, where we arrived around 5:15pm. We bought bus tickets at the little shop at the left of the train station, then figured out we had 30 min until the bus to Positano departed. I thought It might be fun to go try to find the Sorrento Webcam, but then decided we didn?t have time and should try to get a seat on the bus.

The bus ended up being packed!! There were lots of people standing up on the bus, which seemed a little dodgy given the extreme twists and turns of the ride from Sorrento to Positano. It seemed like 95% tourists on the bus.

The bus ride was lovely - we made sure to sit on the right side of the bus for the best views. Finally Positano came into view. On the ride from Sorrento, there are 2 stops in Positano - we got off at the second one to go to the Villa Rosa

Villa Rosa - E140/night, room 20 - good deal, lovely balcony, good location. Our room was right next to the reception area, which was not very noisy luckily. I think every other room on that floor but ours had no view at all besides the upper cliffs, due to being obstructed by La Sirenuse. When considering whether or not to stay here, I would ask them to guarantee you will be not on the floor with the reception. Helpful receptionist, everyone spoke English, moldy shower walls and shower curtain falling down. Breakfast was brought to our room every day, croissants and bread with coffee of your choice. A couple of mornings it was too chilly for us to eat outside, so we ate on the bed. Overall, I?d recommend the VR, but only if you can get the upper floors.

Dinner Saturday night: Restaurant Max, as recommended on this BB.
Impression: good (not great) food, way overpriced. Our most expensive (and not best) meal of the trip, E105 for 2 apps, 2 entrees and wine. We did not have reservations, so they had us wait for about 20 minutes for a table. Just as we were getting alittle ancy, they brought us 2 proseccos to tide us over - a very nice touch. The best part of the evening was meeting a lovely English couple at the table next to us (4inches away, really) whom we talked with a fair amount. When my SO and I ordered Limoncello at the end of the night, they brought 2 extra glasses for the couple we had made friends with!! Also, a very nice touch, too bad our dinner wasn?t better.

**Travel Tip - try to plan ahead for where you will eat and make reservations. Our lack of reservations at several restaurants became a problem.

Sunday- THE DAY OF RAIN AND RAIN AND MORE RAIN
it actually wasn?t that bad, and it was the only rain of the whole 9 day trip!!
We had planned to go on the Salvatore e Gennarro boat tour of the AC this day, but pushed to Monday due to the weather. We ended up walking around Positano for a while, just exploring, including the path along the waterfront on the right as you look at the sea. Eventually the rain became so extreme that we took refuge under a parking garage for about 20 minutes. The we took a bus (buy these tickets on board) to Montepertuso.

We headed to this lovely cliffside town way above Positano for lunch at La Tagliata. We got off the bus too early, and had to hike up to the restaurant! No big deal, just if you are going here, don?t get off at the main stop in Montepertuso with everyone else (where the Dona Rosa is), but stay on until the next stop. Again, we did not have reservations here. When we arrived, there were only 3 tables out of 20 or so with people in them. When they discovered we didn?t have a reservation, they put us in a table at the back of the room, not next to the window with the gorgeous view. As it turned out, within the next hour the restaurant did completely fill up, presumably with people with prior reservations. It was just a little bit disappointing to head all the way up there for the view and to be put not next to the window. The food was good: we had grilled fish and linguini with prawns, mixed antipasto, and a side of peas.

When we left, it was still raining - but lightly. We caught the bus which drove the 5 minutes more to Nocelle (sp?) and then the bus did a 63 point turn to resume the trip back down to Positano. Since it was still raining and we were sleepy from lunch, we headed back to the Villa Rosa for a catnap. After resting for a while, we then caught the bus to Praiano. It was so lovely, and I really liked how very different it was from Positano, particularly how genuine it felt in comparison - in terms of fewer tourists, fewer shops. We hiked down to one of the old lookout towers (over 300 steps - we ran into a woman who was counting.) The highlight of our visit to Praiano was watching the local men play Bocci on the court next to the church.

Sunday evening, we ate at Da Vincenzo, also as recommended by Fodorites. If you are looking at the sea, this is on the right hill, close to the hotel Poseidon. We enjoyed the food and the atmosphere - there are tons of bells all around the restaurant and the waiters and owner would ring them at random times. My husband was kidding me the whole time before we went here, because I had read on Fodors about the ?hot waiters? at Da Vincenzo. We ended up with the only female waitress, I think the owner?s wife. Only one hot guy waiter, by the way. Again, the food was good, but not incredible. After dinner, we walked over to Music on the Rocks, a bar/dance club at the far end of the beach that is essentially a big cave. They have internet screens built into the bar with waterproof computer keyboards for checking email. We stayed here about an hour and a half, eventually getting up and dancing with the 3 other couples on the spacious dance floor. As neat as the ambience was, Sunday was just not a happening night there.

Monday we confirmed with Valerie at Gennaro and Salvatore that the trip would be going on that morning, and we met at 11am at the pier. We got on the boat and met Gloria, our tour guide, and Daniele, our captain. The day consisted of a leisurely trip from Positano to Amalfi, stopping at several points along the way for swimming, visiting caves, and seeing the Emerald Grotto (overrated). The highlights were getting to know these two marvelous people, as well as talking with the other couple on the trip, 2 Canadians on their honeymoon. Also, we stopped at a marvelous restaurant called Bar/Ristorante da Teresa for lunch where the boat pulled up to the dock and we ate in the open sea air. The meal was wonderful, one of the best of our trip, consisting of grilled veggies, a lovely and simple pasta with mussels, a gorgeous homemade minestrone. At the end, they put down a bottle of limoncello for the table. Mike, the Canadian, kept filling us up and so we all got a little snookered for the ride back. We arrived home at about 6:30 and all went home for naps!

Later, we had dinner (a small one, as we were all still very full from lunch!) at Valle dei Mulini, which had GREAT pizza. This is in the bend in the road between the 2 hills. Canadian Mike came by, and Gloria from the cruise joined us for a while! After midnight, SO, CM and I went dancing at some other dance club in Positano, not sure of the name, near the left side of the beach 50 feet up from the beach area, down some steps. Seemed to be all locals which was a blast and we all got a little too nutty.


Tuesday: After staying out dancing until 3am Monday night, we got a bit of a late start in our trip to Ravello, arriving around 1pm.

Hotel Garden Ristorante - a lovely place to stay with an incredible view - a fantastic deal at 105Euro. The first 2 times I walked out on the balcony I burst into tears it was so beautiful. We also had lunch here our first day, and the food was pretty good, the view even better!

Ravello - what an amazing place!! A MUST see for any trip to the Amalfi Coast. Best to stay overnight vs a day trip; we were only here for one night but I really wished that we had booked for longer.

Dinner in Ravello: Cumpa? Cosimo: We really liked this restaurant: mixed veggie antipasto plate, simple farafale with tomato sauce, quattro stagione pizza, scalopine marsala, great house wine!! Definitely make a reservation.

Traveling from Ravello to Florence: This was a trip that I was seeking help from Fodorites for logistics that ended up working out great! We took the 7:30 bus from Ravello to Amalfi, a bus from Amalfi to Salerno, then a train 20 minutes later from Salerno to Florence. We arrived in Florence at 3pm, headed up to the B & B Cassia

B&B Cassia - Florence - DIRT cheap at 64 Euro per night for a double room with a bathroom. Is North of the train station 10-15 minutes walking, didn?t feel unsafe, but wished we hadn?t stayed here just because it was so out of the way and during the day we did get tired but didnt go back to the room to chill because it was so far away. So when we left at 8am, we didnt get home for 13 hours, which is a bit of a long time. I?m not saying that we should have spent more time in the hotel room, it just would have been nice to be able to easily go lie down for a bit at 4pm, shower before dinner, etc. yes we could have taken a cab or a bus back during the day, but we thought that would be wimping out. Anyway thats just me. You can?t beat the price though!! Plus, it was very clean, comfy bed, thin walls (we have a white noise machine but before turning it on we could very clearly hear our neighbor?s TV).

**I had called ahead the week before our vacation to make reservations at La Accadamia and the Uffizi which was a great decision, since the lines were all very very long and we completely bypassed them, saving lots of time!!

Florence - the usual sights, 2 fantastic restaurant recommendations::

1. Il Profeta - all tourists in the restaurant, but great food!! Veggie antipasto, bruschetta, chicken breast, beef florentine, cheese lemon cake. I had heard about this place from a coworker, who had told us to say hi to their waiter Claudio. We didn?t end up having him wait on us, but said hi anyway.

2. Da Il Latini - Mobbed at dinner time, so we went back for lunch the next day. LOADS AND LOADS of food, all for only 60E total! Fantastic fantastic meal, and it was nice to see a fair amount of Italians eating there, along with the tourists too.
Friday - train from Florence to Venice

* Tip : don?t forget to validate your tickets before you get on the train. Try to book ahead so you get a reserved seat.

Venice - The whole reason for the trip was my friend?s wedding in Venice, which was a splendid affair that I won?t get into here. Lots of fun, we returned home Monday, Me sick Tuesday and Wednesday. Wahhh! Lovely SO brought me flowers last night. We are in withdrawal, not being able to spend 24-7 together any more.

Okay, that?s it, hope someone can find something useful out of it.

Julie
jck4 is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2004, 02:50 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report Julie. Glad you had a good time. I am eagerly awaiting my trip in November and will overlap the herculaeum, florence and venice parts of your trip. Thanks for all the good info, especially herculaneum. Did you happen to notice if there was any car parking at herculaneum scavi? We decided to drive from Orvieto to Sorrento via Herculaneum.
ssachida is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2004, 03:33 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
from what I could tell, there looked to be only on the street parking, no lot from what I could tell. Walter could answer you better, I'm sure.
jck4 is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2004, 04:21 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Julie -- I'm so glad you managed to do a trip report, even tho jet lagged and sick, thanks! - the trip I'm planning is similar to yours in a lot of ways.

Want to go from Naples to Positano to Ravello to Orvieto (via Salerno) using bus & rail. Also really want to try Gennaro and Salvatore boat trip cuz it sounds like so much fun! I was going to book at Villa Rosa too...

I was going to do 3 nights at Positano and 1 at Ravello just because it would be harder to get to things I want to do from Ravello - do you agree? Or maybe should stay at Praiano, having a hard time deciding. Want to try restaurant in Montepertuso, ferry to Capri, etc. Interested in your input on which villiages to stay in for what number of days. Hope you feel better! (I always get a cold after long flights).

LAwoman is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2004, 02:57 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You know, LA Woman, the problem is that 4 nights is just not enough time!! That is what we spent there and I so wish that we had had one (or 2, or 3+?) more day(s). We arrived Saturday, Sunday it rained so there wasn't that much we could do, Monday was the boat tour, Tuesday we went to Ravello, Wednesday we toured Ravello - given that you are doing the same basic schedule (3:1 nights) you would be able to squeeze Capri in just barely. The night you arrive you could explore Positano, but I wished that we could have spend more time just wandering there. When we got to Ravello and walked out on that balcony and saw our to-die-for view, I instantly said "I wish we could stay in Ravello longer!!" It is such a hard decision to figure out. Any way you could add a 2nd night to Ravello? Again, Priano was great, but I'm glad we stayed in the more touristed Positano. Yes, it is more "commercialized" and full of touristy stores, but i just ADORED Positano. But definitely day trip to Praiano. You can always go back, right? (Thats what we HAVE to tell ourselves!) So having said all this, i still think I made the right choice to do 3 in Positano, 1 in Ravello - especially for you saying you want to also go to Capri (have you researched Capri? I decided it sounded a bit not worth it - read alot of postings here and then decide - some people love it, some people find it to be a commercial spot). Good luck! Ps - yes, im feeling better, thanks. made it to work somehow today on half a brain cell!
jck4 is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2004, 09:21 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
jck4, you sound like a romantic soul, give Capri a try next time, but stay over night, it might bewitch you.

I really enjoyed your report!
SeaUrchin is offline  
Old Oct 8th, 2004, 12:57 AM
  #7  
awbaker
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I felt the same way about withdrawal from spending time with my husband after returning from Italy. Italy is absolutely wonderful, but spending time there with someone you love is truly one of life's greatest pleasures.

I'm jealous that you stayed out dancing until 3! My husband and I tried going to Music on the Rocks on a Saturday night around 11. It was completely dead, and our waiter said it didn't get busy until 1 or 2 a.m. After a big meal, we were too tired to wait around for things to liven up. Sure enough, at 2 a.m. I woke up to a thumping beat, went out on our balcony and saw lots of people going into Music on the Rocks.
 
Old Oct 8th, 2004, 02:23 AM
  #8  
ira
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for a very nice report, jck.
ira is offline  
Old Oct 10th, 2004, 06:57 PM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks alot, Ira! That means alot coming from you. That's like a compliment from Alan on the Australia board! Julie
jck4 is offline  
Old Oct 31st, 2004, 12:05 PM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
here are the pictures to go with my original posting.

http://www.amazon.ofoto.com/BrowsePh...p;sort_order=0
jck4 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kellyba
Europe
13
May 24th, 2010 12:43 PM
sashamagen
Europe
8
Jun 14th, 2009 07:37 AM
Castellanese
Europe
5
May 6th, 2007 08:22 AM
emo
Europe
6
Feb 8th, 2003 07:57 AM
Melissa
Europe
7
Dec 23rd, 2002 11:35 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -