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Trip Report - Lerici, Rome, Tuscany, Venice

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Trip Report - Lerici, Rome, Tuscany, Venice

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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 03:06 AM
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Trip Report - Lerici, Rome, Tuscany, Venice

After a few days in Paris we flew EasyJet to Milan. I found a cheap fare ($37 each) and thought it was a great deal. Our original plan was to take the train from Milan to La Spezia but my husband had been very ill and we decided the train would be too difficult for him. So we rented a car at Malpensa and drove to La Spezia. We dropped off our car in La Spezia and went to Lerici where we had hotel reservations. We checked into Hotel Locando del Lido. This is a very small 4 star hotel right on the beach in Lerici. The rooms are large, they overlook the water, and they have the biggest shower I have ever seen in a European hotel. Breakfast (included in the rate) was outstanding. There is an indoor pool and the beach is literally out the front door. We paid 175 euro for a double and I would recommend this hotel highly.

We contracted with Lerici local tour guide, Megan McCaffrey, for help with our trip to Lerici. One of our group was celebrating his 60th birthday and we asked Megan to help us find a great place to celebrate. She took us up the hill from Lerici to a small town called Pitelli to the Pin Bon Ristorante. We walked in and the view of the sea from the back of the restaurant was breathtaking. The dining room is lovely with white linens and candles. We were seated at a back window with the outstanding view. There was no menu and we did not order. First, they brought carafes of their house white wine. Then the food started to come. OH MY GOSH! I am not a foodie and have never written a restaurant review before, so please bear with me while I try to describe the most incredible meal I have ever had.

First, of course, was the antipasti:
Anchovies marinated in olive oil and lemon
Sliced tomato and mozzarella on crostini
Salty anchovies and mozzarella on crostini
Sliced smoked swordfish
Swordfish with tomatoes and peas
Octopus (I can't believe I loved it!)
Then came the primi:
Pasta with mussels, squid, and other sea critters (Heavenly)
The next course was a HUGE platter of mixed seafood: Crabs, shrimps, fish, and other seafood critters.
The carafes of wine just kept coming.
A lemon sorbet was followed by a flaky cornetto with a cream filing that must have been made in heaven.
Finally the dessert wine came. Our traveling companion had a very memorable 60th birthday party!
This was the best meal we had during our 3 week European trip!

Megan also arranged for us to rent a boat so that we could see the coast from the sea. We had the boat all day and thoroughly enjoyed this. We swam and sunbathed and explored the coast from La Spezia to Tellaro. Great fun. We tried to visit the Cinque Terre with Megan but the ferry was not running due to high seas and there was a rail strike. So Megan drove us to Portovenere instead. We spent the day exploring and really enjoyed it. She took us to lunch at Da Iseo which is right on the waterfront in Portovenere. If you ever go to Portovenere go to Da Iseo and try the stuffed mussels. They were outstanding as was the rest of our meal.

Part two - Rome

Our Lerici visit over, we boarded a train to Rome.

Rome Termini was crowded and bustling as ever but we had no problem getting a taxi to take us to our apartment. Our instructions for meeting to get our apartment key was to go to Pierluigi Ristorante which is what we did. We used Rental in Rome (www.rentalinrome.com) and we rented the 2BR 2BA Monserrato apartment. Our biggest surprise was that the apartment is directly above and associated with Pierluigi Ristorante. The staff of the restaurant treated us like family during our entire stay. We never had to make reservations but were always given a prime table - once outside for dinner and once inside for lunch.

Our first night in Rome we celebrated my 60th birthday at Pierluigi. We had antipasti of fried squid, linguini with porcini mushrooms, eggplant parmesana, ricotta pie for dessert and 3 different white wines. Meal for 4 with 3 bottles of wine ran about 140 euro. This was an excellent meal but I have to say that the next day we had lunch at Pierluigi and I had a porcini mushroom salad that was divine! The staff of Pierluigi were always helpful answering questions or giving any kind of assistance we needed. In fact, when I told the owner's son that my husband had been ill and couldn't make it the next morning for our trip to the Borghese Gallery, he sent a man to be our driver. This man not only took my husband to the Borghese, he drove the four of us all around Rome in a large Mercedes showing us the sites. He wanted my husband to be able to see everything without having to walk around. He even took us to some off the beaten path sites that I thought were very good. He stayed with us the entire day and charged us €90 for all four of us. He was our driver for the rest of the trip and charged us less than a taxi would have cost us. He even took us to Civitavecchia to pick up our rental car so that we wouldn't have to take the train. If you ever need a driver in Rome I would highly recommend Pyno Grassi. You can reach him by email at [email protected] or by phone at 0039 340 826 5633.

For our trip to the Borghese Gallery I had made advance reservations. The Borghese is my favorite place in Rome! Our two hour time slot certainly went quickly. That after noon we walked from Piazza Navona to the Spanish Steps and then just where our feet took us. The next day for our Vatican tour, I had made reservations for an 8:15 am time slot with Rome Museums. We waited in line for about 45 minutes and were in by 9:00 am. It was entirely too crowded for me. Trying to maneuver around scores of large groups was grueling. We spent several hours in the Vatican museums and St. Peter’s. This was my least favorite thing in Rome. The Sistine Chapel is awesome and St. Peter’s is second to none. I just didn’t enjoy seeing it with tens of thousands of other people.

Part three - Porto Santo Stefano to Montepulciano

We picked up or rental car in Civitavecchia and drove to Porto Santo Stefano where we spent 4 days at the Hotel Villa Domizia. I would absolutely recommend this hotel. We had a double room with A/C, frigobar, a huge terrace that overlooked the sea, and private parking for 126 euro in high season. That included a breakfast buffet that was outstanding. It also includes a private sandy beach area with umbrellas and chairs. Swimming is off a rocky ledge that has a ladder so that you can either dive in or ease yourself in. The hotel staff speak good English and are extremely helpful. We spent a half day driving around the Monte Argentario island. Breathtaking views! Porto Santo Stefano is a small town with lots of shops and not many Americans.

We always drink what ever wine is local to the area and in Porto Santo Stefano it was a white from Pitigliano. I am not much of a white wine drinker but I really liked this one. At Villa Domizia I could buy a bottle of cold Pitigliano for 7 euro and take it to my room. Aahhhh, sitting on the terrace, looking over the sea, drinking cold white wine…..it just doesn’t get any better than this! We took a day trip by ferry to the island of Giglio and really enjoyed it. I have to say that my favorite part of our entire trip was spent in Lerici and Porto Santo Stefano.

We left Porto Santo Stefano about 9 am for the 45 minute drive to Saturnia. We made it as far as Manciano where we realized it was market day. I love Italian local markets. After an hour at the market, we continued to Saturnia. This is a nice drive through the countryside. The hot water fall in Saturnia is easy to find. On the road from Manciano we could see the falls from the road. We parked in the field with everyone else and went into the falls to enjoy the warm sulphur water. It had a sulphur smell but it wasn't overpowering. (We didn't do the spa thing, we just stopped at several places to enjoy the hot thermal springs.) We were there on July 1 and while there were a number of people, it was not overly crowded. We left the hot springs after a couple of hours and drove to Pitigliano where we had lunch. After lunch we drove through the countryside to Montepulciano. The drive was beautiful and the sunflowers were in full bloom.

We arrived in Montepulciano in the late afternoon. We had reservations for an apartment at Al Poggiolo, an apartment we had stayed in before. This is one of our favorite places to stay. We had 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, a nice living/dining room, and a spacious kitchen for about 150 euro a night (this included private parking in a gated parking lot.) We took several day trips out of Montepulciano including one driving tour and one trip to Florence. In Florence we visited the Accademia Gallery. I made reservations in advance by using Ira’s advice and merely calling the Gallery. We stood in a short line for persons with reservations and were inside in a short time. We shopped the San Lorenzo market and shopped soooo much that we had to buy an extra suitcase each to take back all our goodies. I had visited Florence once before and found the crowds very “off putting” on my first visit. This time we went on a Sunday and it was not overly crowded. We found most of the shops open as was the Accademia.

Our driving tour took us through Pienza, Bagno Vignoni, and the Abbey of Monte Oliveto. We ate gelato in Pienza, had a picnic lunch at Bagno Vignoni with our feet in the warm water, and bought wine made by monks at the Abbey. For our last night in Tuscany we made reservations at Pulcino Ristorante just outside Montepulciano. They have a wonderful wine cellar and a large wood grill where they grill chickens, sausages, steak, and pork. Our table was on the terrace watching the sun set while overlooking the Tuscan scenery. What a wonderful way to spend time with friends and loved ones!

Part Four - Venice

After Montepulciano we turned in our rental car at Chiusi and took the train to Venice. Our rental car was from Hertz and their office is right across the street from the train station. Very easy to return the rental car. In Venice we stayed in apartment Cicogna which was a 2 bedroom 2 bath apartment in Dorsoduro. We paid about 200 euro a night for this first floor apartment which we rented from www.veniceapartments.org . We took a day trip to Murano, had drinks at Quadri’s (expensive cocktails) while listening to their band, went to a Vivaldi concert by Interpreti Veneziani, shopped at the Rialto Market and took the requisite gondolo ride. This was my 4th trip to Venice and my travel buddies’ first. How fun to show off Venice to others! Our final night in Italy was spent celebrating my husband’s 70th birthday. We had dinner at La Calcina’s restaurant, La Piscina. I had read mixed reviews on this restaurant and so the disappointing meal was not a huge surprise. The food was just okay but the view of the Giudecca Canal and the impeccable service made for a wonderful celebration.

Our birthday celebration trip over, we flew back to Houston….each with a special birthday celebration to remember for years to come.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 03:34 AM
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thanks for the report!
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 07:02 AM
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What terrific trip and report. You saw some of my favorite places and seem to have done it well.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 09:14 AM
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granbury - Thanks for the great report. We were in Lerici last June and spent time with Megan McCaffrey visiting Cinque Terre and Portovenere along with doing a cooking class with her mother-in-law which was a blast. We celebrated my daughters 15th birthday at Pin Bon - we loved it as well!
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 11:06 AM
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granbury - why did you go all the way to Civitavecchia to pick up your rental car?
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 12:41 PM
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granbury - your trip sounds wonderful.

A few questions about Lerici : What was the dinner price per person at Pin Bon, was the hotel location near Lerici proper (please recommend restaurants, if possible), and was the beach at the hotel sandy or "pebbly"?

Thanks for your response.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 12:47 PM
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hi granbury,

great report- you packed a lot into your time and your report.

I do hope that your husband is now better,

regards, ann
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 01:46 PM
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hazel1 - We went to Civitavecchia to pick up our rental car because we are from a very small town and did not feel comfortable driving in Rome. Civitavecchia was on the way to Porto Santo Stefano.

nevertooold - I don't know the price of the Pin Bon dinner as it was included in our tour package with Megan. The Hotel Locanda del Lido was a few blocks from Lerici proper...a nice stroll for us. This hotel is really nice. The beach was very lovely sand and sloped gently. Other than Pin Bon and Da Iseo in Portovenere, we did not eat out a lot. We ate at the hotel beach club several times or just grabbed a snack from the grocery store.

annhig - thanks for the thoughts. My husband is much better now.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 05:52 PM
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granbury

Really great trip report. Thanks. And I'm glad your husband is better now.

I would love to know how you liked veniceapartments.org. We are renting from them in October, and while our apartment looks quite nice I am a little worried about the instructions they sent us for picking up the key. It seems we have to find their office somewhere not too far from Piazzale Roma. The instructions were a bit odd, including the directions that only one person could come to the office and not to bring any luggage.

Was it the same for you? Would you mind telling me how you negotiated the key thing?

Again, thanks for the great report.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 07:31 PM
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nevertooold - We were in Lerici last summer for 4 nights and really enjoyed our dinners at Pin Bon and at Golfe de Poeti. Golfe de Poeti is located right on the main piazza in Lerici. We had some of the best fried calamari ever!!
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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 02:10 AM
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NW - Glad to hear hubby is feeling better! Also, so nice to read your report and know what a fabulous time you all had!

Megan in Lerici
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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 03:03 AM
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tucanlifeedit - veniceapartment.org was okay to rent from. Their office is not hard to find. Just follow the directions they give you. You have to go over several bridges to get there (that is why they suggest you have someone wait at the stazione with the luggage) but it is not far. I actually printed out the pictures that come with the directions and that helped me a lot. We left two people sitting at an outdoor cafe while the other two picked up the key. There were no problems picking it up other than you have to have cash and that is a little problematic but not unusual. The only problem I encountered was they wanted the key brought back to the office the day we left and that was pretty inconvenient for us as we were going in the opposite direction. Otherwise, our apartment was as presented and we really enjoyed it. We never had any problem with the apartment so I can't comment on how responsive they are to problems.

Megan in Liguria - thanks for such a good time....we had a blast! Lerici is now one of my favorite Italian cities.
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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 06:50 PM
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Gadzooks! There is no way I can bring the key back to the apartment. I chose the apartment in part for its proximity to the Fondament Nuove Alilaguna boat to the airport. I will have to write to them apartmen.

I'm regetting this rental a little because I'm not thrilled with their conditions but it is a nice place at a very good price, and I guess one has to compromise a bit.

But I will write to them tomorrow on the key return thing. I've been working on a letter to them anyway, so I think it is time to send it.

Thanks for the info and the tip on the way there. I too will print out the pictures.
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Old Aug 30th, 2007, 02:40 AM
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tuscanlifeedit - they are going to tell you to bring one of the keys back the day before you leave. Its still pretty inconvenient to do that. We were not able to get anywhere near their office the day before we left so we just left the key on the kitchen table when we checked out. Worked okay for us.
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Old Aug 30th, 2007, 02:54 AM
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Dear Tuscanlifeedit,

We have rented the apartment La Rosa de Vienzza in Venice for next June. We saw it on Franco's venice thread on this site. It looks wonderful, but is only one bedroom. It is 163 Euros per night and is right near St. Marks Basilica. In case you can get out of the other one and you only need one bedroom. Just do a search if you want to see pictures or I can provide the website.
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Old Aug 30th, 2007, 02:58 AM
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www.rosadivenezia.com is that website.

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Old Aug 30th, 2007, 03:25 AM
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What a great report! I want to follow in your footsteps. Thanks.
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 05:49 PM
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I was so thrilled to see that you had been to Porto Santo Stefona. I will be there in just a few days. I was also curious about your screen name. Could you be from Granbury Tx. I am from Weatherford, Tx. Are there any tips you can give me about PSS. We will rent a car in Florence, drive to PSS, and do day trips to wine areas,etc. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old Sep 12th, 2007, 03:35 PM
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Hey skeeter!

Yup...I'm your neighbor in Texas. You will love Porto Santo Stefano. Some of the best wine we had came from Pitigliano...an easy drive from PSS. There is a great place to eat in PSS. I didn't mention it in my trip report because I can't remember the name of it. But it is easy to find. It is on the main drag going thru PSS and is built out over the water. There is paid parking close by. It is just past the marina area. Hope you have a great trip!
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