Trip Rep: Venice, Part 1
 

Well, being Americans, my wife and I had the thrill of being guests of a real Italian family for an entire week...They lived about an hour inland from Venice in the province of Vicenza. This was a heart-warming, life-enriching experience we will never forget. This wonderful family of four took their own vacation time in order to serve as our guides. We first met them while visiting the medieval walled city of Lucca, Italy one month after infamous 9/11/'01. In our broken Italian, we asked for directions. They took us under their wing. In appreciation, we staged a family portrait and mailed it to them. This resulted in a series of humorous e-mails and Christmas cards. They extended an invitation for us to come and visit in 2004, so we agreed provided they would return the favor in 2005. So, while visiting them this past April, we had the honor of meeting their extended family, and enjoyed many delightful dining experiences. This even included the production of homemade bigoli (pasta) on a hand-turned vice, complete with ragu meat sauce and a vast assortment of cheeses, local asparagus, lemoncello, fresh fruits and several regional wines. We brought them gifts from from our state of Georgia such as peanut butter, pecans, peach candies, special ornaments, and of course, tee-shirts. We were treated to piano recitals by their two adorable children (ages 13 and 11). We spent many hours around the kitchen table with a phrase book and a world globe to discuss the pleasures of travel. We ventured out in different directions every day, so I will try and hit the "highlights" of each of these side trips for the benefit of other travelers, starting with Venice, which was actually near the end of our week's stay. And of course, I will spend the majority of my trip report regarding Venice. VENICE: The 40 minute vaporetto (water taxi) ride from the train station to St. Mark's Square was incredible. The greenish-blue waters of the canal slap against the doors of ancient structures which by design, merge the eastern and western worlds. The absence of automobiles was quite refreshing, and the traditionally-garbed gondoliers bobble in their sleek crafts while excited visitors take photos of the famous barber-style poles, which grace the waters in front of residences and businesses. Aquatic commerce in other crafts was enjoyable to watch including: the Federal Express water taxi, the garbage man (with a hydraulic lift), and we even witnessed a floating wedding, a water amublance, and a funeral procession on the same day. Since this was our only 48-hour period away from our Italians friends, we opted for a romantic getaway in the five-star LONDRA PALACE which presented stunning balcony views of San Georgio Island. In the room below ours, we were told that Tchaikovsky was inspired to write his fourth symphony. We had a very pleasant experience in our stay there. The concierge made arrangements for a private boat (owned by the Marco Polo glass company) to pick us up at the docks in front of our hotel. And, yes we did have a pleasant and fruitful shopping experience much to my wife's delight! On another occasion, the hotel arranged a gondolier ride which is an absolute "must" if you enjoy romance. We sipped presecco and snuggled. It was as if all the stresses of the world were put on hold. Later that night, we witnessed the traditional "flooding" of St. Marks Square, which coincided with a rain shower and we assume, the rising tide. No worries, however.--When this happens, the locals set up a path of make-shift raised sidewalks on miniature tables! Another suggestion: visit the small island of BURANO which is best know for lace-making. Regular boats will take you to this enchanting island. This tight-knit village of side-by-side structures was a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors which drove te Kodachrome in my camera crazy! We enjoyed excellent seafood alfresco dining, overlooking a small canal. By far, our favorite activity was sitting in St. Mark's Square (Piazzo San Marco) in front of the world-famous HOTEL FLORIAN. We gladly paid the 5 Euro per-person entertainment fee, ordered grappa and some light snacks. Our spirits soared as we listened to the outstanding orchestra play all the Italian classics. In fact, three other establishments on the piazza would rotate with the orchestra at the Florian, each playing for about 30 minutes. I had the pleasure of photographing a newlywed couple who rose to waltz amongst the gorgeous backdrop of some of the finest gilded architecture on the planet. Kids of all ages delight in feeding the tame resident pigons. Needless to say, after all this stimulation, we fell deep in love with Venice. For best shopping bargains, simply "'get lost" on the back streets...Get to know the natives. Dine lightly at the open-air trattorias. We found that language was not a barrier in Venice if you make the attempt to speak a little Italian. Our perfect stay ended at one of Venice's most recommended dining experiences. We were reunited with our Italian friends who had reserved us canal view seats at the RISTORANTE Da RAFAELLE. Before dining, we watched in awe as a caravan of gondoliers gracefully rolled by complete with a soloist and accordion player. To this day, the powerful sounds of "O Solo Mio" still pleasurably echo in my mind. As for the overall effect of the dining experience, Patty and I agreed that the quality of food and service we experienced that evening was one of the most outstanding in all of our extensive travels. Our appetizer was cuttle fish and risotto in their ink (black), a perfect complement to the regional white wine we all shared. For entrees, we selected rombo (turbot) which was accentuated with mushrooms and lemons. I had read about a regional specialty (veal liver & onions), so I ordered a small serving and Patty and I agreed it was by far the best we have ever tasted. We polished off the evening with lemon sorbet, a second round of bellinis (champagne and peach nector), and cappuccino. End of Part 1.

Very nice Cal. Looking forward to the rest. I am envious of your chance to meet and really get to know a family that will open their home to you and yours. You are very lucky.

Here's a link to part 1 of Cal's report

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34532482

oops, sorry, I meant well, that link is for part 2

Thanks for your suggestion Elaine. In the future, I will answer my on threat quickly to break them up!--Actually a very nice tecnician at Fordors was kind enought to break my article into two parts.-- I had originally sent it as one long document ("my bad")...Elaine, also thanks for "cross referencing " the two on this thread. I just got back from out of town and just noticed
the postings...Cal

Another bit of information for those desiring to take excursions within two or three hour's inland form Venice.--Check out the train connections and special bus tours.-- The welcome/tourist centers at the Venice train station can give you more details if your are so inclined.

topping before this gets lost in the weekend shuffle...

Someone asked for the directions to Ristorante da' Raffaele...It's an easy five minute walk from St. Mark's Square (phone 041/5232317)...Great cuisine and atmsophere along a major route of the gondoliers. Try and get canal-view seating right before the sun goes down. The owner, Rinatto Salmaso, also takes warranted pride in his astounding collection of medieval weapons, armory and cookery.