Trip Itinerary--Switzerland & Alsace
 

Last year, I went to Switzerland, and was so amazed by the beauty of the country and the efficiency of the trains, I have decided to return. Here's the plan:

Arrive Zurich -- train to Colmar, France
3 nights Colmar -- visit other villages by train, like Ribeauville (any others?).

2 nights Stein-am-Rhein -- I loved it last year. This is the only village I'm planning to visit a 2nd time.

3 nights Guarda -- Hotel Meisser. I plan to visit Scuol, and Tarasp castle by train while there. Maybe a hike to Ardez? How far is it?

2 nights Soglio -- Hotel Palazzo Salis

1 night Zurich (airport hotel) before my flight out the next morning.

Once again, I will be traveling with a Swiss Rail Pass (I will buy a point-to-point tickets for France)

Any thoughts?

Hi, Susan. Haven't heard from you in awhile. Glad to see you are going back to Stein am Rhein. I think you are in danger of becoming a SAR addict (altho I must bear some responsibility I fear)!!

Can't offer any help on the rest of your trip, unfortunately, but I'm sure you'll get some wonderful input from others. Sounds like a great trip.

Betty,
I made the mistake of putting a photo of Stein am Rhein on my desktop at work. I look longingly at that photo of the river with village houses. A feeling of tranquility comes over me just thinking of that place! And I thank you again and again for recommending I stay there last summer!

Nice hearing from you.

Susan

Hi susan001,

You've chosen two **great** spots for your Engadin vacation, and I think your amazement about Switzerland is only going to grow! I spent a week in Zuoz and found the Engadin Valley to be gorgeous and relatively un-touristed (I mean, by English-speaking tourists; there were a lot of German-speaking hikers everywhere).

The one person who was invaluable in helping me plan my trip was the poster German Eagle, who goes to the Engadin every year if he can. Here is a link to his pages on the Lower Engadin (Scuol & around):

http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8885/

I know he doesn't recommend the Meisser, and in fact I've recently read some bad comments about them. He does recommend a hotel in Guarda, so do take a look at his page.

He has also done the walk to Ardez, though I don't have his notes on it. You may want to contact him through VT and see if you can pick his brain (or see if he pops up here).

And finally, to whet your appetite some more, here is an article about the Valley with some nice photos:

http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/...rticleId=10670

I had a wonderful time when I was there. I particularly enjoyed renting bicycles from the St. Moritz train station and taking two rides, one around the lakes of the Upper Engadin and one down the Valley floor. Just incredible.

Have fun!

s

Hi Susan,

What a great itinerary. Have yet to go to Soglio and I've been in CH for over 20 years!

If you're looking for a budget hotel in Unterengadin, we stayed at Hotel Plaz in Sent last year for SFr. 100/double room. The hotel is a traditional house with basic but modern rooms and a nice bath. If you're noise sensitive and don't mind not having a view, they have the perfect room for you. Breakfast is basic but includes cheese, meat and yoghurt.

Good morning, schuler, swandav, and susan. Schuler, it sounds like my kind of place, except for the no view part, alas. May I ask what you mean by 'noise sensitive'? What is Sent like? Thanks, jw

Hi JW:

Just took a look at the hotel from the outside and it's not one of those really old houses but it's located right in the town square. There's cobblestones all around and a bit of drive through traffic, which you might hear if you're window's right next to the road.

Looking at the picture of the pension from the outside, it doesn't look all that tidy but the rooms were impeccible and modern too. This is one of those hotels where looks are deceiving.

The price for a single is Sfr. 60.--

http://www.pensiun-plaz.ch/

Thanks so much, Swandav and Schuler. I will take a look at your recommendations. I've already booked the Meisser in Guarda, since Karen Brown and a few others on this board have recommended it. I did not book half board. Swandav, I visited Zuoz on my last trip, and was so enchanted with the village, and the Engadine sgraffito, I decided to explore more of the region.

I feel a little bad that I'm not planning to go to the BO this time (stayed in Murren last year). It's difficult to squeeze in everything I want to do. I also haven't been to Castle Chillon yet.

Susan

Karen Brown: her recommendations are unique but sometimes out of date.

I stayed at two of her recommended hotels in Switzerland last year and would only return to one.

I think Meisser is in a wonderful location and you'll enjoy it for a few days. I heard lots of English speaking tourists while sipping on my coffee outside in their garden. Incredible views.

Schuler, Thanks for the insight on Karen Brown. I'm hoping the hotels will all be suitable. I did use her guidebook for all. I also have a lonely planet guidebook.

Hi Susan, spent part of a day in Soglio a couple of years ago. It's a captivating area. We'll be staying at the Palazzo Salis this summer as well. If you like to hike, like we do, or if you just like to be surrounded by gorgeous mountains, you'll be in heaven.

Oooh my gosh! And here I thought you were a relative new-comer to Switzerland! So happy to hear this is going to be another return.

Yup, Zuoz is a lovely place. I did get out to see both Guarda and Soglio on day-trip excursions, and both were great. I think you won't run out of things to do!

Oh well, Chillon will be there when you do get around to seeing it, hee hee! To tell you the truth, I didn't get to Luzern until my eithth visit, and not to the Engadin until my eleventh. So -- I like your approach: see a few lovely spots, but see them well!

Hi jw! SO great to hear from you!

s

Thank you, schuler, and thank you, susan, for allowing me to piggy-back here. It does look like a lovely accommodation. I notice that there's the necessity of a bus connection from scuol-tarasp, but I'm becoming accustomed to that as the best connections with Gerra-Gambarogno are also via local bus.

I have to admit, though, that giving up a view is going to be something I'll have to come to terms with. Much of the value of my rare trips comes from the view from hotel windows. Affectionately to all lovers of Swiss travel, jw.

susan, bettyk, et al:

Spotting this thread about two of my favorite spots, I noticed your reference to Stein-am-Rhein and it easily trigered my memory of a very odd incident the first time we visited SAR in 1983.

We were driving from Konstanz and upon arriving, we saw an opening to the town, big enough for our small VW, so through it we drove, parked the car and were about to stroll the town...absolutely NO ONE in sight, and it was about 10 am. All shops were closed as we sauntered onto a square.

At that moment a shrill whistle sounded and there was a soldier in camouflage fatiques motioning us to go back to where we had parked the car...he followed us to make sure we heeded....and then there appeard from all sides about 50 uniformed soldiers carrying rifles, darting in and out of doorways. We asked the escort soldier what was happening, he actually smiled and in English informed us that the Swiss Army was having a "door-to-door exercise" that morning!

It was over in about 15 minutes, and from our vantage point we began to see shopkeepers, and other citizens, and a few tourists who were probably waiting out of sight outside the main entrance, slowly fill up the empty town, as the army trooped out.

Our fortune.... first visit to this picturesque river town and we run smack into Swiss army maneuvers (I managed to quickly snap one pic of a soldier emerging from one of the doorways).

Yes, although a bit awe-struck, we throughly enjoyed that visit and two subsequent times to SAR.

Have a fun trip, Susan!

Stu T.

Stu T.

Hi, S!!!! Isn't it great to know that one's list of places to visit in Switzerland is NEVER concluded? For some reason, it gets longer, and the logistical problem is that you also never want to give up the favorites you've visited time and again. Ahhh well. Check you later at yahoo.

Susan, glad to learn that Stein-am-Rhein has not been spoiled by its popularity. Ever since I returned to Brienz on a very crowded Sunday and wondered where the quiet little lakeside village had gone, I've been afraid to re-visit favorites from many years ago. You give me hope.

jw

jw, do not despair. When we arrived in SAR, it was on Mother's Day! The little town was so crowded, we wondered if we'd made a mistake in going there. However, by dinnertime, most had left and for the next 2 days, we had the town to ourselves except for the locals! The weather was amazing and we so enjoyed just wandering the streets and sitting by the Rhein watching children fish and ducks eating the bread I'd bought for them!

Hello susan001 :)

I believe it is you (or bettyk?) I can thank for your beautiful photos last year of Stein-am-Rhein. We were so taken with its charm just from the photos that we have decided to included it on our summer itinerary! We have reservations at the Hotel Rheinfels.

As swandav says, &quot;<i>I think your amazement about Switzerland is only going to grow!&quot;</i> ((L))

Have a great trip!

We stayed at Hotel Meisser last fall (late September) for 4 days, it was very nice. The town was enchanting, although very quiet ( which we like) When we arrived it was snowing and we woke up to a few inches of snow. We did do half board as some of the other places in the village were closing down or limited. Our only complaint with half board was that the menu wasn't huge so by the 3rd night we wanted a change. We did eat in the smaller restaurant room the &quot;Stuvetta&quot; one night, it was also very good. They had a charming man who played the Zither in the restaurant.

From Guarda we did drive to Soglio and I want to return and stay there. Driving up through the Chestnut trees was amazing, the town is just perched on top. Unfortunately it was raining so we didn't get to see the views. I had the best polenta with wild mushrooms at Palazzo Salis!

From Guarda we also did the Bernina Express as far as Tirano.

We only had a half day in Stein ~ again~ it is a magical place, a place I would like to stay for a day or two.

We had the most amazing trip (based in Appenzell, BO, Guarda, Weggis) and couldn't have done it without the people on this board! I do use Karen Brown, but the recommendations and opinions here and on TripAdvisor have more weight!

Thanks for all your responses! Wrenwood, thank you for assurances about Hotel Meisser. I wonder about the Bernina Express, which I hadn't considered until now.

Cimbrone, maybe I'll see you at the Palazzo Salis (yes, I do plan to hike there), and SwissHiker, I'm also staying at the Rheinfels in SAR. Tower, cute story about the Swiss army in SAR.

Anyone out there familiar with Colmar and the Alsace region? Remember, I'll be using the train system, not a car.

I shall try to contribute something because I've taken so much advantage of your thread, susan. I stayed in Dambach-la-Ville many years ago for several nights, and I daytripped to Obernai, Riquerville(excuse the spelling, I know it doesn't look right), and Colmar, by train and bus. Do you have a good rail map? It's been so long since I could tear myself away from Switzerland that I can't remember much. Except that I loved the tiny, then undiscovered, town of Dambach-la-Ville, the vineyards, and the onion pie! Yum.

jw

Hi y'all!

Good to see the &quot;Switzerland loving crew&quot; again!

Susan001 - great itinerary. You'll stay in the small towns and villages that are not crowded, at least not after the day trippers are gone.

The Meisser is not bad. I wouldn't pick it first, though. Pension Val Tuoi has more charm and you get more value for the money, and Hotel Piz Buin is IMO also very, very good. However, you won't be disappointed with the Meisser.

I personally use to make the most of my vacation days: carpe diem! You could go by train and bus to Tarasp, walk up to the castle and tour it (only guided tours and a bit on the expensive side - but very beautiful). Back by bus to Scuol. If the weather doesn't co-operate you could spend two or three hours in the wonderful spa there. Love it. Otherwise take the gondola from the train station up to Motta Naluns, hike from there to Prui (30 minutes), take the chair lift down to Ftan, hike to Ardez (1.30 h) and walk through the village. Depending on the time you could hike to Guarda (maybe 1.30 to 2 h) or take the train/bus.

If you prefer a slower pace then split these activities up and spend two days with them. On the other hand, a hike from Guarda up into the 'real' mountains to the chamanna Tuoi hut is too tempting ...

Soglio - aaaahhh, heaven. With one full day there you should explore the village, then hike down to Castasegna through the chestnut woods, hike to Bondo and Promontogno and take the bus back up to Soglio (also possible from Castasegna). Would make a perfect day.

I have been to Colmar, but not to any of the villages in the area. Sorry, can't help with that.

jw, Thanks so much! I'll see what I can find out about getting to these towns using public trans. I'm sure my hotel in Colmar will have information, as well (but I will research this ahead of time).

Ingo, Wow. Thanks for the detailed hiking information for the area. I will definitely attempt some of hikes you recommend.

swisshiker, it was Susan who posted the lovely photos last year. I had &quot;gently&quot; persuaded her to go after our trip there the year before. We love all things Swiss, German &amp; Austrian.

Our photos from our 2006 trip:
http://travel.webshots.com/album/554510509SyxotU

FYI: Just found out that the guided tours of castle Tarasp start every day at 2.30 and 3.30 pm. You should calculate a good 20 minutes walk from the postbus stop in Tarasp up to the castle entrance. Photo stops not included ;-)

Ingo,

You have been unbelievably helpful. Thank you so much! I will allow plenty of time to get up to Tarasp for the tour.

Susan, I answered you on another thread so I searched for you! I have had dealings with most people posting here :-). Here's my trip report:
http://www.epinions.com/content_238856932996

LOVED the Hotel Salis and the food is to die for. Lunches in the garden are amazing. Take the bus to the start of the Panoramic Trail and do the beautiful hike. Visit the man who sells fresh cheese half way. Make sure your hiking shoes are waterproof, there are a couple water falls to go through..you might avoid getting wet, but if you're worried, carry an extra pair or two of hiking socks. We stayed at the Piz Buin in Guarda and loved it. However, we watched the soccer matches at Meisser's little bar across the street and it was fun! Piz Buin had delicious, reasonable dinners. Also some good places in Scuol. We took train and bus to Vulpera and khiked to Tarasp...it's gorgeous! You start by hiking by a golf course, then through meadows, a few hamlets, then the back way up to the castle beside a babbling brook- not a long or difficult hike but SO pretty! Also, read my report on catching the bus up into town (Guarda) when the train arrives. Miss it and it will take you 30 min to walk up there! Almost all Swiss towns have bus connections meeting the trains..but you probably know that. I agree...take the trail behind Piz Buin and hike up the Val Tuoi. You don't have to go as far as the hut to appreciate it. That's a good first day hike for altitude. Ardez is pretty and we had a great meal there. I also mentioned the VERY fun hike go to Pontresina, take the lift up Muottas Muragl hike to Alp Languard and the chair ride down. The view over St Moritz, towns and lakes is amazing! That's an easy train ride from Guarda. If you don't have the time to do the hike, you can just ride the lift up and enjoy the view. After this year's trip to France and last year's to Austria, my husband is on my case to get us back to Switzerland in 2009. Oh well!!!!

oops...have you booked a Zurich airport hotel? We did it on Priceline...I think that's in my report as well. Definitely the way to do it, cause it doesn't really matter where you are- they're right togther and if they don't shuttle, a cab will be cheap. Get to the airport with at least 2.5 hours...it was the longest and most involved security lines(s) I've ever seen.

gosh I'm annoying...but we talked to several people in Tarasp who said that there is nothing unusual or original in the castle anymore and that the tour was a waste of time and money. Not so with Chillon, though!! ;-)

Linda,
Thanks so much for your detailed reply. I was in such a hurry to make sure I had accommodations (after finding a bargain airfare on Orbitz), that I forgot all about Priceline!! Can't believe I spent $200 on the airport hotel, Zurich. I think I booked it on AirportHotels. Mistake! I'm sure I could have saved $100 or more on Priceline. Oh well.

I'll plan to have dinner over at Piz Buin. Thanks for that and all other recommendations. Personally, the thought of getting on a chair lift scares me (never was a downhill skier). An enclosed gondola is more my style.