marionkp

Hi!
I'm planning a trip to the Baltics in the May/June timeframe and will be traveling solo (I'm a woman in my early 50's). Although I've traveled extensively, this is my first trip to eastern Europe (with the exception of the USSR).
My plans are to visit Vilnius, Riga, Tallinn and Tartu, spending 2-4 days in each city. I'd love to get suggestions for hotels in these cities....I prefer to stay in the Old Town sections and definitely not in the business type hotels.
Any must sees/avoid at all costs?
Any suggestions for traveling alone there?
I'm thinking I'd like to take a city-tour in each place plus have picked up the Cooks Travellers guides for each country, which have good walking tours outlined. Any recommendations on city tour companies or guides?
Also, I'd love to get recommendations for the best way to travel between the cities. I'd prefer not to drive....am I better off to fly or take a train?
I'll be visiting friends in Tartu (but will stay in a hotel)....they have recommended that I also plan a couple of days in Helsinki. Is it worth it?
I'm just at the beginning stages of planning the physical aspects of the trip so would appreciate all the input you can provide.
Thanks.

amy_zena

I lived in Riga for 2 years (2001-2003) and loved it, except for the winter weather. You'll be going at a lovely time of year.

The only thing I would caution you about is staying in the old town area of Riga. People (on Fodors) have disagreed with me on this and maybe Riga's old town has changed since I lived there. But...I never felt safe alone there at night. If I left the pubs earlier than my friends, I would have a male friend walk me to a taxi. I lived in the center of Riga only 5-10 minutes walking outside of the old town area, but didn't want to walk through it alone at night. I was actually robbed in my home during my first months in Riga, while I was at home! First time in my life I had been robbed!

Several of my friends were robbed in quite a violent way while in the old town at night. But like I said, this could have changed since I left.

I understand how you feel about staying in hotels in the old town areas of cities, as I always do this when I travel too. But maybe just for Riga, it's better to stay at the Reval...it is a business hotel which I know you don't want, but it's very safe.

Visit the Occupation Museum in Riga. Let me know if you would restaurant recommendations.

Tallinn is a different story...felt safe in the old town there at night. I never went to Vilnius, so I'm not sure about that.

And yes, Helsinki is definitely worth a vist. It's just a short boat ride from Tallinn.

marionkp

Thank you Amy. I'll take your advice to heart and check out the Reval. And of course I'd welcome restaurant recommendations.

amy_zena

On second thought...if you are going to Riga in late May or June, there will be loads of daylight. It will stay light close to 10:00 or 11:00 at night. So maybe it would be safe to stay in the old town. I was just remembering dark cold winter nights, not the warm light late spring/early summer nights.

hsv

I used to live in Riga for a while, too (although before 2000). I stayed for quite a while in an apartment in Old Town and never ever felt unsafe.

That said, the Reval Latvija indeed isn't a bad option. It is a bit unpersonal (while friendly), but its location is both walkable from Old Town and to Art Nouveau district and its restaurants.

I unreservedly also recommend the Konventa Seta hotel smck dab in the center of Old Town by St. Peter's church, too. Charming 3* under the management of the more upscale Hotel de Rome.

Go to

http://www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga/en/

to get great ideas and reviews of both restaurants and hotels.

Good rates can often be found through the website of Latvian travel agency ViaRiga

http://www.viariga.com/pub/?id=1&sel=1

Nancy34

I traveled to Helsinki by myself last summer, and loved it. The city is wonderful. I stayed at the Klaus K Hotel and thought it was great (easy walking to Senate Square, the Esplanade & dock area; and great restaurants in the hotel).

Below is the link to the hotel and another to a great article on Helsinki from the NY Times:

http://www.klauskhotel.com/

http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/07/16...6helsinki.html

jlpx2

Two years ago we visited Riga and Talinn for a few days in each city. We stayed at the Mann-Tess in the old city in Riga and Schossle in Talinn. Both had excellent locations.
Idid not know about Riga's reputation for stag parties before we went. When we arrived at first we were surprised at the number of partiers, but then update us. As a couple we did feel unsafe walking back to the hotel from nearby restaurants. It is a shame because the city has so much too offer.
Both Fodors and Frommers have great walking guides for both Riga and Talinn. Also check "In Your Pocket" guide on the internet.
We enjoyed both cities and are lanning to go to Vilnius this summer. Any suggestons for hotels in Vilnius????

hejno

So far, I have only been to Tallinn, but will go to Riga later in April. Tallinn was very nice, small and compact Old Town, easy to explore on foot. Restaurants were high standard- surprisingly good food and pleasant prices. Some original ones: Olde Hansa- all in medieval style, only candlelight, even the washroom was very special...Balthazar (Garlic House)- they even had garlic ice cream!
I prefer to stay in apartments, the apartment I rented in Tallinn was one of the nicest; centrally located, large and modern with absolutely everything one would need. As I see they also rent rooms, I include their adress:
http://www.romeofamily.ee/
(If their timescedule permits, they may even pick you up at the airport for free)

Amy

I really liked the location and atmosphere of Domus Maria in Vilnius. (I was on a solo trip to Poland and Lithuania; the trip report is here: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34841274) I really enjoyed Trakai as a daytrip out from Vilnius, but for the city itself I could find my way around without problems (even visiting "Frank Zappa Memorial Square".)

It was extremely hot when I was there, so I didn't do as much in Vilnius as I could have, but it was a great visit none the less. Happy trails!

michelhuebeli

We just spent ten days in the heart of old Riga, just steps away from St. Peters. We went to the opera, we walked after dark, quite late, and the worst we saw was drunken Brits. Not threatening, just fools behaving foolishly.

The Baltics have become cheap destinations for stag parties, end-of-season sports-team tomfooleries, and such. The locals make a lot of money off them and - in a way, because this influx attracts a certain discreet police presence, it has helped to clean up the area from the real roughians and crims that once plied their trade there.

So things have changed. In a way for the better, although a group of drunken Brits is not a pretty sight. But they're not everywhere, and you can hear them from a mile, so it's easy to avoid them.

Other than that, Riga is lovely - no longer dirt-cheap, but reasonable, and day trips by train and coach are available to a bunch of nice places.