Traveling Solo in Paris: A trip report
 

After one month home I have finally caught up enough to do a mini report on my solo trip to Paris for 9 days, Feb 18-27. This is much more a review of an apartment rental agency, a few restaurants and stores, and the experience of traveling alone

I am a 50+ woman, married to someone who hates the cold weather in Europe during the winter, so I left him home this trip. We have had many wonderful trips that included the sun and this would also have been one of them, had he come. I have been to Paris this exact week on 2 other trips, one week it rained every single day, the other week it snowed every day, but this trip it was absolutely beautiful, sunny everyday except the last one, where it drizzled on and off, in the high 50's. A couple of days I went out without my coat, it was that nice. I am from SF and it was the same as our weather this week.

Being alone I decided to take a shuttle instead of a cab, trying to save a few euros. I used Paris Blue Van, 24E. I landed at 6:30, had my bag and was in the shuttle at 6:50, great service. There was terrible traffic that morning and it took two hours to get into the city, I was so so happy that I wasn't in a cab that day.

I rented an apartment, studio grenelle, from http://parisvacationapartments.com/prop-grenelle.html.. What a wonderful company. I whole heartily recommend them. I have inquired about an apartment in the past and they were kind enough to hold it for me until I could contact the other people that wanted to go with me. Unfortunately, that trip fell through. I also tried to rent from them last year but their apartments book up very far in advance so that one didn't work out either. BINGO, got one this time and it couldn't have been more perfect for me. The apartment is very small, but so well thought out and equipped that it really didn't matter. I must say that I would be cramped here with another person but I loved it by myself. It consisted of a very comfortable bed, reading lights, and cutouts in the cupboard sides for your coffee or alarm clock. A little TV with cable and tons of channels was in the bedroom. The bathroom was small with all marble tiles, great water pressure, and came with tp,soap, and hairdryer, it was just great. The kitchen consisted of a little fridge, a two burner stove, a microwave and a combo washer/dryer. I cooked about half of my meals and it had all the utensils I needed. There is a big wardrobe closet, a small table with two chairs, a small couch, and two small tables that I could move around wherever I needed them. It also had a big window that overlooks an empty courtyard but gives great light to the apartment. There are two coded locked doors to go through to get into the building and a keyed apartment door so it is very safe. The apartment also had a tele and a computer with high speed Internet access. The agents were there on time to meet me and check me in. They arranged a cab for my departure and during my stay called twice to see if everything was going OK. They were just great. I would rent from them again in a heartbeat.

The location can not be beat. I like this area because you are technically in the 7th, but you are about 10 feet from the 6th. There are a million places around to eat,to drink, to grocery shop, and to pick up cheese , breads, pastries. There are about 5 metro stops you can use from this location. It is a quiet area in the evenings. Bon Marche Grande Epicierie is about 3 blocks away, an excellent place to spend hours.

My focus for this trip was to see if I enjoyed traveling alone. YES, it was fabulous. I did meet up with a few friends so technically I was totally alone only about half the time, which seems to be a good mix for me. I have been to Paris many many times, but always with my husband, my SIS, my friends, my nieces, but never by myself. I longed to wander aimlessly everyday, with no real agenda,to stop and look into every single window, to practice my French, to walk for hours on end, and that is exactly what I did. It was wonderful to not have to meet up with anyone at a certain time, to not have to rush back in order to get ready to go out to dinner, to not be with anyone on their first trip to Paris! I find Paris safe to wander around in any time, the metro system is clean and quick, I haven't mastered the buses yet, but I really do prefer to walk. I have used a pedometer in the past and walk about an average of 6-10 miles a day, this time my feet were so sore in the evening I think that I walked extra!

The first full day in Paris I was met by a dear friend from Dijon ;), it was a wonderful way to test drive my vacation. We walked every where. We went to Musee Branley, where we were both underwhelmed with the exterior, though it was winter. We went to the textile museum, shopped, had a late lunch and called it a day. A few days later I also met up with a young couple that were vacationing in SF last summer who live on the outskirts of Paris. I went to their home for dinner one evening and was introduced to some of Mrs.Picards delicious frozen appetizers, which I later bought for my apartment! This young couple hadn't spoken English since we had last seen each other so after the first hour they talked in French and I answered in English and we each got about half of what the other one was saying, it was a good way to communicate, it worked. My french got better that evening. The other friend(E) that I hooked up with is a very good friend who has moved back east and I hadn't seen in a year, her mother(B) has an apartment in the 16th and lives there for the winter so my friend came and stayed with her Mom and we all three hung out for two days.

The first night my friend (E) flew in we went to dinner at Fernand on rue Christine in the 6th. I have heard good things about it here on Fodor's and elsewhere and since we all needed to catch up, it seemed like a nice casual bistro would be a good choice. Well, we had the worst experience there, I would NEVER recommend this place. B had called to make a reservation for that evening, we went kind of early, at 8, since E was jet lagged and wanted to go to bed fairly early. B and E are fluent in French, E grew up in the south of France, so of course they made the reservation speaking French. When we entered the restaurant they spoke French to the staff as well. There are two rooms, the front room was full and the back room only had one other occupied table. We were seated in the back next to them. After we sat down and proceeded to speak English to each other things went down hill, quickly. I think that the front room had all the English speakers and they seemed to be mad at us, like we tricked them by speaking French. Let me say here that this was a casual restaurant, by 9 the place was full and noisy, it was not a low voice mind your manners, romantic place. The couple next to us appeared to hate us and glared at us all evening. The waiter came over to take our order and "shushed" us...excuse me, B thinks he is just trying to get out attention, I think not. We order and the first course is truffle raviolis in a morel sauce. I swear that they did this on purpose, a soup bowl with enough sauce that you couldn't even find the raviolis came, no mushroom taste, no truffle smell, blah! The rest of the dinner was fine, not great but fine. We have one desert between the three of us and no coffee. OK, here comes the clincher. They bring our check without us asking them, I have begged for checks before with no results! E says thank you, pushes it aside as we are still chatting about something.....well, they brought over our......COATS! I have never never been treated badly in any Paris restaurants , this place was just down right rude. I will take a little credit for talking a lot, maybe we were talking too much or too loud, but, the whole restaurant was talking and loud, not just us. Anyway, I wouldn't return and neither should you, there are too many great places to eat in Paris to chance this happening to you.


Our best meal was at a small neighborhood place in the 16th, Chaumette, 7 rue gros, 01 42 88 29 27. The staff was friendly, the restaurant noisy and fun, and food to die for. My appetizer was two perfectly poached eggs in their shells, topped with caviar and truffle salt. I wish I had that to eat now. The rest of the meal was delicious but I can't remember what it was!

There was a great free photo exhibit of Paris at the Hotel de Ville(Paris in Colors). I think it is still there. It had wonderful photos of Paris spanning the last 100 years, definitely worth stopping by to view. Versailles had an exhibit of all the silver that had been sold during the French Revolution. They borrowed it from various museums and the exhibit included incredible furniture. We walked through the garden and out the back gate to the Trianon Palace for a late lunch. It has all been remodeled, it's stunning inside. The the food was wonderful and reasonably priced. It was much better than the cafeteria food at Versailles.

The rest of my trip consisted of shopping. Yes, the exchange rate sucks...big time. I find the prices to not be too different from SF which is also an expensive city to live and shop in.

I needed a few baby presents and Paris does have the cutest baby clothes. Du Pareil au Même is a great baby store all over Paris, the prices are very reasonable and the quality is great. Everyone loved their presents.

Bazar Hotel de Ville== BHV= This really is my all time favorite store, I must have spent a total of 24 hours roaming around there. We are remodeling our bathrooms and this store had the best selection of bathroom accessories. Really, this store has everything you will need for just about anything. Besides buying a lot of little things for the bathrooms, I came home with two unique toilet bowl brushes and a gorgeous white plastic chandelier for the new rooms, not easy things to carry home. The customs agent looked at my card and said to me " you couldn't buy these at home?" " non"

Like I said before, I feel very safe in Paris alone. I did have one incident though. I took a cab back to my apartment about 1am. The cab driver was flirting with me, which made me uncomfortable. I don't speak French that well but I kind of knew what he was saying. I wasn't comfortable with him taking me to my apartment, even though it had the two coded doors. When he started with the bisou bisou discussion I jumped out at the red light, quite to his surprise. I threw his a few euros and a few choice english frases. I only tell you this to remind you to be careful and alert when traveling on your own. I dought anything would have happened but I'd rather be safe than sorry, besides, I was just about 3 blocks from my apartment.


I hope this helps someone else in planning a trip.

Oh Susanna! Great report. Your writing is lovely. We will be in Paris in June so thanks for the tips. Now I think I will check into an apartment!

It sounds wonderful! I can really relate to doing what you want and when you want. I wish I could see the photo exhibit. I love Paris and that sounds fascinating. So does the silver exhibit. And for NINE days!!! And great weather too. I have to admit to being envious :)

Thanks for the report Susanna. any restaurants/brasseries/cafes that you would recommend in or near the 6e? I am heading to Paris in the fall with my husband and baby daughter, who we take out to eat all the time her in Boston and is pretty good in restaurants, and we are looking for some friendly places with good food.

Thank you for the nice comments Ronda and gomiki
Sally, here is the short list of my favorites that I give to people:
Laduree
75 Champs-Elysees
This is a very touristy place on a very touristy street, BUT, it is a beautiful old place with good food and they are open at all hours because of the location. They are a famous tea salon with wonderful macaroons, but the restaurant is good too, I love their salads for a lighter meal. There are a few other locations as well, have been to all and they are all good, but, this one is the prettiest.

Fish la Boissonnerie 01 43 54 34 69
69 rue de Seine (6th)
just a great local place, they speak english very well, great food and not too expensive

La Regalade
49 ave jean-moulin (14th)
01 45 4568 58
A bit of a splurge but worth it

Le Hangar
12 impasse berthaud (3rd)
01 42 74 55 44
A little hidden and hard to find at first, our favorite restaurant that we always return to

Chaumette
1 rue gros (16th)
01 42 88 29 27
Great little family bistro, friendly, pretty much all french here

Astier
44 rue jean pierre timbaud (11th)
01 43 57 16 35
The best french cheese course in the world, really crowded and noisy, fun.

Susanna, REALLY interesting trip report. Liked your "test run."

Interesting about the Fernand. We had a similar experience at a restaurant in the 6th whose name I now forget--this was around ten years ago now. It was a place that had been highly recommended here and elsewhere, so it had become rather overrun with Americans. I think this restaurant's staff did as you suppose Fernand did--separated the English-speaking from the French.

It was strange service, and we felt the food was sub par. They assumed we wanted English menus (!!) and they brought us our check before we asked. Like you, we were amazed to be treated this way. We were hardly shouters, etc.

Another way to look at it, we decided, was not that the restaurant had lived up to the "snobby French" stereotype but that its attitude and service were anomalies.

Thank you for the restaurant recs. I also meant to say I was so surprised that you were handed your coats!! (I was in a haze about the photos and silver). It is quite ironic as there is a post today about how to get your check!

Susanna, I'm so glad to hear you had a fabulous solo trip! Sounds great.

Also, I'm glad to hear the cheese tray at Astier is still a draw. I've had many good meals at this tiny (crowded) gem, though I haven't been in a few years.

Susanna! Great trip report. It sounds like you had a fantstic time!

I wonder, do you have any photos you could share of the apartment? I'm researching lodging for our summer 09 trip and the one in which you stayed is on my short list of contenders.

Do you think this apt is too small for a husband and wife? In your opinion, is the area a good one for Paris first-timers?

susanna: Thank you so much for this great trip report. It sounds like you had a wonderful trip and I am soooooooo jealous. Great writing style and good information for my next trip to Paris. Thank you. J

Thank you for the restaurant recommendations!

Paris is a wonderful city, solo or with a companion. thank you for the report.

(Last year, I could have stayed with my husband on his brusiness trip to Saudi Arabia or in Paris by myself. As a woman which would YOU choose?)

ALwyas many thanks to Fodorites who inspire adventure.

Susanna,
Thanks for your report, I enjoyed it! I love to travel solo, and Paris is specially great for that! Will be in Paris for two days in July on my way to China, and then again in September. I always try to stop over in Paris when I travel o the countries in Asia. It is a long ways from Brazil, and stopping in Paris makes the trip a lot better...

I never had trouble with cab drivers in Paris late at night - but then, I am a little old lady...(will be 60 in June!).

There's nothing that's as much fun to find as a Susanna trip report! (Even one that doesn't involve barge trips.) I can't believe they brought your coats! How rude!

Sometimes I am just more comfortable having a cab driver take me to a hotel near my apartment, rather than the actual apartment. Or a block away or something.

Brava bella, on your first solo adventure.

Chicagodallasgirl: I have a couple of pictures that I will try to post tomorrow but the pictures on their site show it perfectly, they did used a lens to make it seem twice as large. The room is about 15feet long, 10feet wide.

It would be a great location for a first time visit. If you decide not to take this one I can recommend another in the area that is a one bedroom and much bigger but more expensive:
http://www.vrbo.com/61185
Rue Grenelle is certainly bigger than a hotel room and it has a kitchen. The bathroom is right opposite the bed. There isn't a lot of floor space for suitcases, mine wouldn't go under the bed. When I travel with my DH I prefer a little more space but maybe you don't.

Brazilnut: I'm a little ol' lady too!!! I'm also dying to come to Brazil, maybe next winter!

Hi Grass

Hi "Suzette" I wonder who your friend from Dijon was ;-) but I know it took time for her to recover from that day!
Great report as usual :-)

Here are links to a few pics taken in your flat, hope they will work :
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/7...nparis3bp8.jpg
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4...anparishm6.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/966...nparis2zo7.jpg
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/8...nparis5rg4.jpg
coco

Lovely report, susanna. Thanks you for the information.

Ah, my dear friend posted pictures...of me but not of her...I was just going to write you an email and ask you how to do it!!!!
Thank you

What a lovely trip report susanna - I really enjoyed it.

I really enjoyed your report, also, lots of interesting and unusual things, but useful.

Too bad about Chez Fernand, that is really surprising treatment. Now I have heard of restos that separate English from French speakers (mostly in St Germain, it seems, actually) but your description was bizarre about how they seemed to get bad that you had tricked them by speaking French and then literally handing your coats to you! I wonder was that for everyone they did that, or just you? I've heard they had good food, also, and there is a branch of that resaurant in Montparnasse (on bd MOntparnasse), I wonder if they behave any better.

I would have gotten out from the cab driver, also, what a jerk. I don't generally talk to cab drivers or people like that at all for them to even try to flirt with me or have a discussion, though. I talk more to waiters or other service people like that, but not cab drivers, usually. I don't always understand their French that well, anyway, a lot of the ones I've had speak with a different accent than I am used to, or not clearly (I think they are immigrants).