Travel Food Question for the South of France!
 

Hello all,

We are heading to Nice this June, and my stomach needs a game plan. What are the absolute must‑try dishes and restaurants in Nice and the surrounding spots?

• I am allergic to shellfish (tragic, I know), but I can still eat fish
  
• We are mostly into chill, low‑ to mid‑budget places
  
• Street food + food markets = instant happiness
  
• We will splurge on one epic fancy meal if it's worth it
  

Areas on our list: Nice, Menton, Èze, Villefranche‑sur‑Mer, Saint‑Paul‑de‑Vence, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, and anywhere else that’s amazing and nearby.

Drop your favorites — the hidden gems, the classics, the “you HAVE to eat this” spots.

Thanks in advance, and bon appétit to future us!

Nice has its own micro-regional cuisine, it is called Cuisine Nissarde. Different than what you might expect: A Salada Nissarda does not have any cooked vegetables - so no potato or green beans like a Salade Nicoise. Historically, plants that could survive common droughts were harvested. Meats were limited to animals that could survive in the craggy surrounding hills (think sheep), and the sea was lacking in seafood. Mostly they ate anchovies, sardines and fish that got preserved.

The city of Nice puts out a list of places that follow the tradition. Of the list I am partial to La Table Alziari.

https://www.explorenicecotedazur.com...sine-nissarde/

The restaurants at which I dined in Nice, Menton, and other places in the area are all covered in my trip report. You can google them to determine if they're still open, see recent reviews, and evaluate whether they meet your dietary needs and preferences.
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...rance-1669406/

Socca! Pissaladiere!!

And yes, pizza: https://www.facebook.com/p/Les-Amour...0060243082825/


I don't think you will be hampered at all by not eating shellfish.

Do check menus nonetheless - shellfish can be used in stocks for flavouring other dishes.
If in doubt make it clear you are allergic to shellfish.
EU law says allergens must be listed, but not everywhere obeys the law...

In Villefranche sur Mer I have eaten several times at Les Garcons and it was very very good every time.

This is more southwest than southeast, but cassoulet (a bean and sausage stew) is one of the most popular and economical dishes in France.

Bouilliabaise
Pissaladiere

Bouillabaisse frequently includes shellfish, so not suitable for OP.

Nice recommendation
 

La Merenda in Nice is fantastic! You must call or stop by to reserve (it is very small and a reservation is mandatory) but it’s well worth it. Outstanding pasta with pesto and boeuf daube (like beef burgundy). We went last spring when we stayed in Nice for a week, and are returning this spring again. Best meal of our stay.
I also recommend Rosa Jackson’s cooking class, which includes a market tour, especially if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen.

I wouldn't go there for the view, but Mirazur is a top restaurant and a table by the window offers this view:

https://flic.kr/p/277cAYh

Hi OP PT,
We are now snowbirding in Antibes and have been impressed with self-catering options, such as the superb pair of delis: 'Epicerie Italian' for Sicilian dishes plus, and especially the justly-popular Charcuteire Lyonnaise. Veziano boulangerie is also VG. But IMHO, the marche is just OK. It's not in the same league as the better markets and Les Halles throughout France. Tomorrow will be our long-anticipated daytrip up to Valbonne and it's well-regarded Friday market. Hope to buy some honeys: bruyere (heather) plus ronce (brambles).
As for Nice, you may want to check out the less-touristy cafes up around Place Liberation (aka Libe'). Our fave Menton restaurant in years past has been the Asian Mme Phok. As for Villefranche, we'ĺl soon be rendezvousing with another snowbirding Tacoma couple from the Rick Steves forum there and the plan will be to peruse the place Pollonais area for a lunch location. Have heard good things about both Tosca's and also Cosmo.
Bonjour chance!

I am done. The socca

Stop press.
A pair of new adds in Antibes:
1) Lilian Bonnefoi has 3 locations. The one which we want to bring most attention to is their actual sit-down cafe down in the Safranier district, a so-called 'free commune' neighborhood not to be missed. Exactly zero tourists at this cafe at today's wonderful brunch. LB 's other locations specialize in either chocolate or pastry--this brunch branch offers all 3 in a sympa combo.

2) Romagna Mia is a classic rock/Pink Floyd shrine posed as an Italian cafe. I jest. Sabina and Fabio run a most sympatico cafe offering fresh home-made pasta specialties, with EXCELLENT music plus all the quirky friendliness in the universe. Our kinda place. Casual and oh-so tasty takeout as mentioned in the book 'It Begins with Bonjour'. Ottimo.

I am done. The full bellies

Correction--the above book by a traveling Duke prof in which Romagna Mia restaurant got a humourous shout-out is instead titled 'It Starts With Bonjour'. Great title, yeah?
Bon chance PT!
I am done. The seagull et les anchois

A few absolute must-tries in Nice that are shellfish-safe and very local:

• Socca – chickpea pancake, crispy outside, soft inside. Grab it from a stall in Cours Saleya market. It’s street food at its best.
  
• Pissaladiere – caramelised onions, olives, anchovies. Sounds simple, tastes incredible.
  
• Salade Nicoise – the real one (no lettuce, no nonsense). Tuna, eggs, olives, tomatoes, anchovies.
  
• Pan bagnat – basically a Niçoise salad in sandwich form. Perfect for wandering days.
  
• Ratatouille and daube provençale (slow beef stew) if you want something hearty.
  

For chill, budget-friendly local spots in Nice:

• Lou Pilha Leva – tiny, super local, great for socca/pissaladiere/pan bagnat
  
• Chez Pipo – famous for socca, very no-frills
  
• Fenocchio – unusual ice cream flavours, fun stop after dinner
  

Miniature stuffed vegetables and fried squash blossoms are both specialties you should easily find in Nice