TR: yk & family 6 days in Barcelona; October 2011 (with photos)
Nov 13th, 2011, 11:33 AM
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TR: yk & family 6 days in Barcelona; October 2011 (with photos)
In late October, we went on a 11-day trip to Europe: 6 days in Barcelona followed by 5 days in London. Since the 2 parts of the trip are quite unrelated, I've decided to post the London segment in a separate thread.
<b><u>Introduction</u>
Why Barcelona?</b>
Back in June 2011, my parents received an invitation to attend a ceremony in London in early November (details will be described in the London TR thread). They wanted to tag on a second European destination to the trip prior to London. At their age (late 60s/70s) and not very internet-savvy, they find DIY trips to be too much hassle.
Initially, they checked tour company brochures for bus tours and cruises that take place during late October, but pickings were very slim. Finally, they mentioned to me that they'd like to visit Barcelona. As travelers all their lives, my parents have been to most parts of Europe, yet Barcelona remains one of the few major cities they haven't visited.
I was fortunate to have been to Barcelona twice in the last 4 years
[long-winded trip reports here:
Feb 2008 http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
Nov 2009 http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-nov-09.cfm ]
I volunteered to go with them and be their tour guide. My parents decided to invite my DH along - DH hasn't been to Barcelona either.
<b>Who?</b>
DH & I - in our late 30s
My parents - late 60s/70s
<b>When?</b>
Last week of October 2011
<b>Pre-booking</b>
1) An apartment in Eixample through Habitat Apartments
2) Tickets to Faust at Liceu opera house
<b>Weather</b>
It was quite warm throughout our week: mostly mid-to-high 60s. However, we encountered rain and cloudy skies most of our week.
<b>Day 1</b>
As my parents insisted on paying for one of our plane tickets with their miles, DH & I flew separate airlines from Boston to Barcelona. DH was booked on Iberia, transferring in Madrid (in order to get AA miles). My "free" ticket was on Lufthansa with connection in Frankfurt. DH's ticket was under $700 booked in late June; mine was free but I had to pay $200 for taxes/fees.
Our flights were scheduled to depart and arrive approximately the same time, though DH's flight was an hour shorter. It was almost a miracle when I found DH at the Barcelona El Prat airport baggage claim the next morning; no need for our backup plans B, C, D...
We took the long (and very cheap) way into town. Since we arrived at Terminal 1, we first took a free shuttle bus to T2, where the train station is located. At the station, I bought a T-10 ticket from the machine (€8,35) and we got on the next train to Barcelona-Sants. The R2 train runs 2x/hour and the journey takes 20 minutes. At Sants, we exited the commuter rail and entered the underground for line L5. 3 stops later we were at our destination: Hospital Clinic station. All of this only cost 1 ride on the T-10 ticket, ie, €0,835 per person. All-in-all, it took 2 hrs from the time our planes landed to our arrival at the apt (and yes, we had checked luggage).
Our 3BR/2BA apartment was rented through Habitat Apartments. http://www.habitatapartments.com/en/...view/ninot.htm
I picked this one because it came up as the cheapest option when I searched for apts in late June. Our nightly rate was €130 which I thought was very reasonable.
I wrote a full review on the NINOT Apartment here: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...omment-7365680
After we settled in, unpacked and refreshed, it was time to return to the airport to pick up my parents. Their flight from Houston (via Frankfurt) was scheduled to arrive around 3pm. We took the cheap way to the airport and back; by the time we were back in the apartment, it was late in the day. Mom decided to stay put and rest; the 3 of us went out.
We first headed to the main tourist office in Placa Catalunya to buy transport tickets for Montserrat. I also bought 2 Ruta del Modernisme voucher booklets at €5 each.
[Details about Ruta del Modernisme here: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ar-with-it.cfm ]
We then walked south along La Rambla and visited the <b>Mercat de La Boqueria</b>. Finally, we arrived at<b> Liceu</b> where I picked up our prepaid Faust tickets from one of the automatic machines.
We took the metro back home and did some grocery shopping at the nearby Mercat del Ninot. This was quite disappointing actually. The market building is undergoing major renovations; a temporary market is nearby but much smaller. Moreover, the 3-4 times we visited the temporary market (well before closing time), we found 80% of the stalls not open. So, unless we're willing to go shopping during the day instead of sightseeing, we miss most of the grocers. Dinner that night was weisswurst, pasta, and romanesco.
<b><u>Introduction</u>
Why Barcelona?</b>
Back in June 2011, my parents received an invitation to attend a ceremony in London in early November (details will be described in the London TR thread). They wanted to tag on a second European destination to the trip prior to London. At their age (late 60s/70s) and not very internet-savvy, they find DIY trips to be too much hassle.
Initially, they checked tour company brochures for bus tours and cruises that take place during late October, but pickings were very slim. Finally, they mentioned to me that they'd like to visit Barcelona. As travelers all their lives, my parents have been to most parts of Europe, yet Barcelona remains one of the few major cities they haven't visited.
I was fortunate to have been to Barcelona twice in the last 4 years
[long-winded trip reports here:
Feb 2008 http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
Nov 2009 http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-nov-09.cfm ]
I volunteered to go with them and be their tour guide. My parents decided to invite my DH along - DH hasn't been to Barcelona either.
<b>Who?</b>
DH & I - in our late 30s
My parents - late 60s/70s
<b>When?</b>
Last week of October 2011
<b>Pre-booking</b>
1) An apartment in Eixample through Habitat Apartments
2) Tickets to Faust at Liceu opera house
<b>Weather</b>
It was quite warm throughout our week: mostly mid-to-high 60s. However, we encountered rain and cloudy skies most of our week.
<b>Day 1</b>
As my parents insisted on paying for one of our plane tickets with their miles, DH & I flew separate airlines from Boston to Barcelona. DH was booked on Iberia, transferring in Madrid (in order to get AA miles). My "free" ticket was on Lufthansa with connection in Frankfurt. DH's ticket was under $700 booked in late June; mine was free but I had to pay $200 for taxes/fees.
Our flights were scheduled to depart and arrive approximately the same time, though DH's flight was an hour shorter. It was almost a miracle when I found DH at the Barcelona El Prat airport baggage claim the next morning; no need for our backup plans B, C, D...
We took the long (and very cheap) way into town. Since we arrived at Terminal 1, we first took a free shuttle bus to T2, where the train station is located. At the station, I bought a T-10 ticket from the machine (€8,35) and we got on the next train to Barcelona-Sants. The R2 train runs 2x/hour and the journey takes 20 minutes. At Sants, we exited the commuter rail and entered the underground for line L5. 3 stops later we were at our destination: Hospital Clinic station. All of this only cost 1 ride on the T-10 ticket, ie, €0,835 per person. All-in-all, it took 2 hrs from the time our planes landed to our arrival at the apt (and yes, we had checked luggage).
Our 3BR/2BA apartment was rented through Habitat Apartments. http://www.habitatapartments.com/en/...view/ninot.htm
I picked this one because it came up as the cheapest option when I searched for apts in late June. Our nightly rate was €130 which I thought was very reasonable.
I wrote a full review on the NINOT Apartment here: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...omment-7365680
After we settled in, unpacked and refreshed, it was time to return to the airport to pick up my parents. Their flight from Houston (via Frankfurt) was scheduled to arrive around 3pm. We took the cheap way to the airport and back; by the time we were back in the apartment, it was late in the day. Mom decided to stay put and rest; the 3 of us went out.
We first headed to the main tourist office in Placa Catalunya to buy transport tickets for Montserrat. I also bought 2 Ruta del Modernisme voucher booklets at €5 each.
[Details about Ruta del Modernisme here: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ar-with-it.cfm ]
We then walked south along La Rambla and visited the <b>Mercat de La Boqueria</b>. Finally, we arrived at<b> Liceu</b> where I picked up our prepaid Faust tickets from one of the automatic machines.
We took the metro back home and did some grocery shopping at the nearby Mercat del Ninot. This was quite disappointing actually. The market building is undergoing major renovations; a temporary market is nearby but much smaller. Moreover, the 3-4 times we visited the temporary market (well before closing time), we found 80% of the stalls not open. So, unless we're willing to go shopping during the day instead of sightseeing, we miss most of the grocers. Dinner that night was weisswurst, pasta, and romanesco.
Nov 13th, 2011, 11:53 AM
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<b>Day 2</b>: Gaudi & Gaudi
The original plan for today was to visit Montserrat - forecast calls for a sunny, warm day. Rain was predicted for the rest of our week.
Alas, the best-laid plans often go awry. DH woke up feeling clammy and feverish; before he finished his last bite of breakfast, he was in the bathroom throwing up everything. It must have been travel exhaustion, jetlag, plus a virus he'd picked up.
I sent Mom and Dad off sightseeing on their own (they walked from apt to Passeig de Garcia all the way to Liceu on La Rambla), while I went to the supermarket for juice & water and then back to bed. M&D returned by lunch time and DH had recovered 80% by then. We ate a simple lunch in the apartment and then headed out, trying to enjoy the nice weather as much as possible.
Although there is a metro station (L5) 5 minutes away, I figured out there are a number of bus lines within 1/2 block of our apartment that can get us around. I like buses because the ride is way more interesting than the metro. Moreover, since Mom doesn't do well with stairs and long walks (and there're lots of those in metro), buses are preferable.
We took a bus to Hospital Sant Pau and changed for bus <u>#92</u> to the E side entrance of <b>Park Guell</b>. This is one of the best ideas I've had. The bus stop is right at the side entrance, which is half-way up the hill on Park Guell. When we entered, we're already at the upper levels of the stone colonnades in the park. So, instead of hiking UP the park (esp all the way from the Lessup Metro stop which is a good mile away), we walked downhill the entire time. We slowly meandered down through several levels of the stone colonnades, saw the exterior of Museu Gaudi, and arrived at the Serpentine benches. We had to weave through the crowd down toward the main entrance, where we took a coffee break at the entrance cafe.
Wonderful view of Barcelona http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6720.jpg
Stone colonnade http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6723.jpg
Lots of people on Serpentine bench http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6734.jpg
Main entrance http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6739.jpg
We exited the park via the main entrance and walked down the steep hill to the main road below. There, we took Bus <u>#24</u> which dropped us off right on Passeig de Gracia in front of <b>Casa Batllo</b>. Since Casa Batllo is open late, we went in for a visit. M&D paid the senior price of €14,55. DH & I used our 10%-off voucher (from the Ruta del Modernisme booklet) and got in for €16,30. Prices include audioguide, and photography is allowed inside.
Exterior http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6750.jpg
View from piano nobile http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6754.jpg
Roof top
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6762.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6766.jpg
Our apartment is about 3/4 mile from Passeig de Garcia, so we walked home. About 2 blocks from our apartment is a full-sized supermarket with meat, seafood, and cheese counters. We bought several pieces of fish fillet which we pan-fried at home.
The original plan for today was to visit Montserrat - forecast calls for a sunny, warm day. Rain was predicted for the rest of our week.
Alas, the best-laid plans often go awry. DH woke up feeling clammy and feverish; before he finished his last bite of breakfast, he was in the bathroom throwing up everything. It must have been travel exhaustion, jetlag, plus a virus he'd picked up.
I sent Mom and Dad off sightseeing on their own (they walked from apt to Passeig de Garcia all the way to Liceu on La Rambla), while I went to the supermarket for juice & water and then back to bed. M&D returned by lunch time and DH had recovered 80% by then. We ate a simple lunch in the apartment and then headed out, trying to enjoy the nice weather as much as possible.
Although there is a metro station (L5) 5 minutes away, I figured out there are a number of bus lines within 1/2 block of our apartment that can get us around. I like buses because the ride is way more interesting than the metro. Moreover, since Mom doesn't do well with stairs and long walks (and there're lots of those in metro), buses are preferable.
We took a bus to Hospital Sant Pau and changed for bus <u>#92</u> to the E side entrance of <b>Park Guell</b>. This is one of the best ideas I've had. The bus stop is right at the side entrance, which is half-way up the hill on Park Guell. When we entered, we're already at the upper levels of the stone colonnades in the park. So, instead of hiking UP the park (esp all the way from the Lessup Metro stop which is a good mile away), we walked downhill the entire time. We slowly meandered down through several levels of the stone colonnades, saw the exterior of Museu Gaudi, and arrived at the Serpentine benches. We had to weave through the crowd down toward the main entrance, where we took a coffee break at the entrance cafe.
Wonderful view of Barcelona http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6720.jpg
Stone colonnade http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6723.jpg
Lots of people on Serpentine bench http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6734.jpg
Main entrance http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6739.jpg
We exited the park via the main entrance and walked down the steep hill to the main road below. There, we took Bus <u>#24</u> which dropped us off right on Passeig de Gracia in front of <b>Casa Batllo</b>. Since Casa Batllo is open late, we went in for a visit. M&D paid the senior price of €14,55. DH & I used our 10%-off voucher (from the Ruta del Modernisme booklet) and got in for €16,30. Prices include audioguide, and photography is allowed inside.
Exterior http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6750.jpg
View from piano nobile http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6754.jpg
Roof top
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6762.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6766.jpg
Our apartment is about 3/4 mile from Passeig de Garcia, so we walked home. About 2 blocks from our apartment is a full-sized supermarket with meat, seafood, and cheese counters. We bought several pieces of fish fillet which we pan-fried at home.
Nov 13th, 2011, 12:18 PM
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<b>Day 3</b> Montjuic
Although it was an overcast day, that did not stop us from heading up to <b>Montjuic</b>. I have been there previously but only limited to the museums in the mid-mountain.
We took the metro to Parel.lel stop and connected to the free funicular up Montjuic. This is where one would exit for Fundacio Joan Miro and other museums. We opted for the cable car, Teleferic de Montjuic, which continues up to the very top of the mountain (€6,50pp one-way). It isn't a very long ride, but offers a lovely view of the city and the ocean.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6773.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6776.jpg
At the mountain top lies the <b>Castell de Montjuic</b> (free admission), built in 1640. It is easy to see why this site was chosen - it offers a 360-degree view of the city and the sea; perfect for defense. Needless to say, the castle had seen many battles spanning several hundred years; it was still in use during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s and 40s.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6780.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6783.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6785.jpg
After enjoying the panoramic view from the top of the castle, we walked down the hill back to the base of the cable car station. It is an easy walk and takes no more than 10-15 minutes. From there, we passed by the Fundacio Joan Miro and wandered through several gardens to reach MNAC.
MNAC is an enormous art museum with a collection that spans millenia. The building was originally built for the 1929 International Exhibition held in Barcelona. One would enter the exhibition grounds via Placa Espanya and would look up the mountain to see this huge building. It must have been quite a sight!
We didn't go to MNAC to see its collection though. We walked through the common area (free) and ended up in the museum restaurant, <b>Oleum</b>. It is located in the former throne room where King Alfonso XIII inaugurated the 1929 International Exhibition. It has 3 large windows that overlook the city.
http://www.mnac.cat/lloguer_espais/lloguer.jsp?lan=003
http://www.mnac.cat/comuns/popupstat...urant_gran.jpg
I had dined at Oleum on my last trip and enjoyed it. They offer dishes a la carte as well as a 3-course lunch menu for €27. Mom ordered a single entree of veal filet. The 3 of us all got the 3-course lunch. DH & Dad picked identical dishes: risotto with cockles (tiny clams) to start, followed by a big serving of lamb shoulder. I had a cream of thyme soup with strawberries and smoked salmon, then a veal ragout. It was a lovely & leisurely lunch. Our bill was €110 including drinks and tip. Obviously, this was an expensive lunch, but was worth the splurge considering that we saved much $ by eating meals at the apt.
I had planned for us to walk from MNAC over to the <b>Olympic</b> stadium area (Barcelona hosted the 1992 summer Olympics). Unfortunately, our lunch lasted so long that when we exited MNAC, the sky opened up and it was pouring. We decided to quickly make our way down the hill and arrived at <b>Caixa Forum Barcelona</b>, housed in the former Modernisme textile factory designed by Puig i Cadafalch. Caixa Forum holds temporary exhibitions and is always free. One of the current show is on <u>Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes</u> which I wanted to see. However, as we were all in a post-prandial stupor, we stopped at the cafe for some much-needed coffee.
http://obrasocial.lacaixa.es/nuestro...celona_en.html
All the display materials in the Diaghilev show come from London's V&A. Having seen numerous Diaghilev exhibitions over the last several years, I must admit that there isn't anything shocking or new to me in this show. Nonetheless, I always enjoy seeing the designs, costumes, and hearing the music. Most of the placards are in Catalan and Spanish only, but I know enough about the Ballets Russes to explain it to my parents and DH.
http://obrasocial.lacaixa.es/nuestro...russes_en.html
By the time we were done, the rain had stopped so we went up to the factory roof. It provides a better sense of the layout of this modernisme facility.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6787.jpg
We made a short detour to the <b>Mies van der Rohe pavilion</b> across the street. I visited it on a guided tour last time; this time we just looked at it from the perimeter.
We walked down to <b>Placa Espanya</b>. The old bull ring, which had been under scaffolding and renovations for the last several years, has re-emerged as the <b>Arenas</b> shopping center with a brand new dome as its roof. http://www.arenasdebarcelona.com/index.aspx
On the roof level, there are multiple eateries and an observation platform. For €1, one can take the express elevator from street level to the observation deck. Or, you could save your money and take the regular elevators inside the building to the top floor, then change for the final escalator to the roof. The deck offers a nice view of Placa Espanya and Montjuic.
The new bull ring http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6791.jpg
View from obs deck http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6793.jpg
That evening, I splurged on some wild mushrooms from the Ninot market for dinner. Fall is wild mushroom season in Barcelona, and the ones I bought were quite expensive. I made a pasta dish using the mushrooms with leek and spinach; finished with a cream sauce.
Although it was an overcast day, that did not stop us from heading up to <b>Montjuic</b>. I have been there previously but only limited to the museums in the mid-mountain.
We took the metro to Parel.lel stop and connected to the free funicular up Montjuic. This is where one would exit for Fundacio Joan Miro and other museums. We opted for the cable car, Teleferic de Montjuic, which continues up to the very top of the mountain (€6,50pp one-way). It isn't a very long ride, but offers a lovely view of the city and the ocean.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6773.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6776.jpg
At the mountain top lies the <b>Castell de Montjuic</b> (free admission), built in 1640. It is easy to see why this site was chosen - it offers a 360-degree view of the city and the sea; perfect for defense. Needless to say, the castle had seen many battles spanning several hundred years; it was still in use during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s and 40s.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6780.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6783.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6785.jpg
After enjoying the panoramic view from the top of the castle, we walked down the hill back to the base of the cable car station. It is an easy walk and takes no more than 10-15 minutes. From there, we passed by the Fundacio Joan Miro and wandered through several gardens to reach MNAC.
MNAC is an enormous art museum with a collection that spans millenia. The building was originally built for the 1929 International Exhibition held in Barcelona. One would enter the exhibition grounds via Placa Espanya and would look up the mountain to see this huge building. It must have been quite a sight!
We didn't go to MNAC to see its collection though. We walked through the common area (free) and ended up in the museum restaurant, <b>Oleum</b>. It is located in the former throne room where King Alfonso XIII inaugurated the 1929 International Exhibition. It has 3 large windows that overlook the city.
http://www.mnac.cat/lloguer_espais/lloguer.jsp?lan=003
http://www.mnac.cat/comuns/popupstat...urant_gran.jpg
I had dined at Oleum on my last trip and enjoyed it. They offer dishes a la carte as well as a 3-course lunch menu for €27. Mom ordered a single entree of veal filet. The 3 of us all got the 3-course lunch. DH & Dad picked identical dishes: risotto with cockles (tiny clams) to start, followed by a big serving of lamb shoulder. I had a cream of thyme soup with strawberries and smoked salmon, then a veal ragout. It was a lovely & leisurely lunch. Our bill was €110 including drinks and tip. Obviously, this was an expensive lunch, but was worth the splurge considering that we saved much $ by eating meals at the apt.
I had planned for us to walk from MNAC over to the <b>Olympic</b> stadium area (Barcelona hosted the 1992 summer Olympics). Unfortunately, our lunch lasted so long that when we exited MNAC, the sky opened up and it was pouring. We decided to quickly make our way down the hill and arrived at <b>Caixa Forum Barcelona</b>, housed in the former Modernisme textile factory designed by Puig i Cadafalch. Caixa Forum holds temporary exhibitions and is always free. One of the current show is on <u>Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes</u> which I wanted to see. However, as we were all in a post-prandial stupor, we stopped at the cafe for some much-needed coffee.
http://obrasocial.lacaixa.es/nuestro...celona_en.html
All the display materials in the Diaghilev show come from London's V&A. Having seen numerous Diaghilev exhibitions over the last several years, I must admit that there isn't anything shocking or new to me in this show. Nonetheless, I always enjoy seeing the designs, costumes, and hearing the music. Most of the placards are in Catalan and Spanish only, but I know enough about the Ballets Russes to explain it to my parents and DH.
http://obrasocial.lacaixa.es/nuestro...russes_en.html
By the time we were done, the rain had stopped so we went up to the factory roof. It provides a better sense of the layout of this modernisme facility.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6787.jpg
We made a short detour to the <b>Mies van der Rohe pavilion</b> across the street. I visited it on a guided tour last time; this time we just looked at it from the perimeter.
We walked down to <b>Placa Espanya</b>. The old bull ring, which had been under scaffolding and renovations for the last several years, has re-emerged as the <b>Arenas</b> shopping center with a brand new dome as its roof. http://www.arenasdebarcelona.com/index.aspx
On the roof level, there are multiple eateries and an observation platform. For €1, one can take the express elevator from street level to the observation deck. Or, you could save your money and take the regular elevators inside the building to the top floor, then change for the final escalator to the roof. The deck offers a nice view of Placa Espanya and Montjuic.
The new bull ring http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6791.jpg
View from obs deck http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6793.jpg
That evening, I splurged on some wild mushrooms from the Ninot market for dinner. Fall is wild mushroom season in Barcelona, and the ones I bought were quite expensive. I made a pasta dish using the mushrooms with leek and spinach; finished with a cream sauce.
Nov 13th, 2011, 01:02 PM
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<b>Day 4</b> More Modernisme
It rained and rained, but it didn't deter us from arriving at <b>Sagrada Familia</b> by 9am, opening time. The foul weather didn't seem to stop other tourists either, as the line had already wrapped around the block. Fortunately, it moved very quickly once the gate opened. M&D's senior tickets were €10,50 each, ours were €11,50 (€1 off using the voucher). We could have skipped the line by purchasing tickets online, but then we would not have been able to use our discounts (plus there are extra fees for online ticket). For unclear reasons, neither tower lifts were operating that morning.
http://www.sagradafamilia.cat/sf-eng/?lang=0
It has been almost 4 years since I was last at Sagrada Familia - I didn't visit it on my previous trip. When we entered the church, I was completely awestruck. The construction has progressed significantly, much more than I had expected. Back in 2008, the interior of the church resembled a construction site; we visitors had to follow a narrow path through the nave, and the ceiling was not closed. This time, the church interior is fully finished and operational. In fact, Pope Benedict XVI had consecrated the building last fall.
I was struck by the beauty and the height of the interior. The tree-like columns make me feel like I'm in a forest.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6801.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6813.jpg
Also expanded is the museum space in the basement area, which is now much larger with a lot more artifacts on display. The current construction focuses on the towers on top of the church, and the grand Gloria facade.
Here are a few shots of the Nativity and Passion facades.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6820.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6824.jpg
We left about 2 hours later, and wandered our way up to <b>Hospital Sant Pau</b>, a UNESCO World Heritage site designed by Domènech i Montaner. http://webs01.santpau.cat/portal/en/4/70238
When I was here 2 years ago, the hospital had just relocated to the new buildings, and restoration work had barely begun in the old complex. At that time, anyone was free to wander the grounds, though I did take a guided tour. Due to the lack of advertising, I was the only person on the tour then.
2 years later, the complex now has a new mission and a commission - it is to be the HQ for the Mediterranean Union, for the exchange of culture and ideas. Renovation and restoration work is in full swing and the entire site is off-limits unless one joins the guided tour. This time, we had a big group and we all had to don hard hats because it is an active construction site. Sadly, the main entrance building is under scaffolding AND is completely off-limits. IMHO, the most beautiful construction and decoration lies within that building. OTOH, this tour is completely different than the tour I took 2 years ago. We went inside the subterranean tunnels (for patient transport) and one of the restored pavilions, so we got a sense of what the hospital wards looked like. I was told that by some time in 2012, the renovations of the main entrance building will be done and that will be visited on the tour then.
Back facade of Main entrance building http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6826.jpg
Surgical pavilion
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6827.jpg
Other buildings on hospital grounds http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6833.jpg
Main patient ward in one of the pavilions
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6831.jpg
Decorated tiles on the walls of the ward
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6832.jpg
Our tour ended up lasting close to 2 hours - our tour guide was beyond enthusiastic. All 4 of us paid half-price at €5: M&D had the senior rate, DH & I used our 50%-off voucher. We decided to go home for lunch and a rest after several hours of sightseeing this morning.
Later in the afternoon, we visited <B>Casa Mila</B>. It is the only site we visited that does not offer senior discounts, and audioguide is extra. A regular ticket is €15; and although DH & I used our 20%-off vouchers, we ended up paying €16 with audioguide included.
Exterior facade http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6844.jpg
Main courtyard http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6834.jpg
Gated entrance for vehicles http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6836.jpg
Looking down one of the courtyards from the roof http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6841.jpg
Roof top http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6838.jpg
For dinner, we went to a place where sis-in-law & I found on our 2009 trip, El Tropezón. It's a tiny place in Barri Gotic; its interior decor is rustic & very basic and tends to turn tourists off. In fact, after we sat down at one of the tables, a rotund man came in and started talking to us. We all thought he was a drunk and were ready to shoo him away, only to then find out he is the proprietor! We ordered 7 tapa dishes: cod fritters, calamari, pan con tomate, "la bomba", potato bravas, grilled octopus, spinach empanda. Most of the dishes was deep fried, so they tasted good. This meal was ridiculously cheap - €32!
You can see 4 of the dishes here: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6845.jpg
After dinner, DH & I walked along Passeig de Colom and up La Rambla to Liceu opera house, where we attended an excerpted concert version of Gounod's Faust (parents went home). http://www.liceubarcelona.cat/en/eve...o-concert.html
I felt bad dragging DH to see Faust while we were in Barcelona. Not only it was a concert version, it was also sung in French with Catalan supertitles, which means we had no clue whatsoever of what was going on. The redeeming thing is that being the excerpted version, they skipped the boring parts.
The main reason I wanted to go is because of 2 singers: Piotr Beczala and Erwin Schrott. Both of them were quite good but I thought Beczala's voice sounded a bit strained. Erwin Schrott not only sang well, he was also dressed in all black with a leather trench coat, adorned with a red rose in the buttonhole... looking quite like the devil.
The surprise of the evening was soprano Krassimira Stoyanova singing Marguerite. She has an active career in Europe but rarely crosses over the pond to the US.
We actually enjoyed the concert a lot - more than I had expected. Nonetheless, we left after intermission. The first half alone was 90 minutes and the second half was another hour. We were just wiped out after long days of sightseeing.
Here's the view of the Liceu interior from our seats:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6849.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6851.jpg
It rained and rained, but it didn't deter us from arriving at <b>Sagrada Familia</b> by 9am, opening time. The foul weather didn't seem to stop other tourists either, as the line had already wrapped around the block. Fortunately, it moved very quickly once the gate opened. M&D's senior tickets were €10,50 each, ours were €11,50 (€1 off using the voucher). We could have skipped the line by purchasing tickets online, but then we would not have been able to use our discounts (plus there are extra fees for online ticket). For unclear reasons, neither tower lifts were operating that morning.
http://www.sagradafamilia.cat/sf-eng/?lang=0
It has been almost 4 years since I was last at Sagrada Familia - I didn't visit it on my previous trip. When we entered the church, I was completely awestruck. The construction has progressed significantly, much more than I had expected. Back in 2008, the interior of the church resembled a construction site; we visitors had to follow a narrow path through the nave, and the ceiling was not closed. This time, the church interior is fully finished and operational. In fact, Pope Benedict XVI had consecrated the building last fall.
I was struck by the beauty and the height of the interior. The tree-like columns make me feel like I'm in a forest.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6801.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6813.jpg
Also expanded is the museum space in the basement area, which is now much larger with a lot more artifacts on display. The current construction focuses on the towers on top of the church, and the grand Gloria facade.
Here are a few shots of the Nativity and Passion facades.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6820.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6824.jpg
We left about 2 hours later, and wandered our way up to <b>Hospital Sant Pau</b>, a UNESCO World Heritage site designed by Domènech i Montaner. http://webs01.santpau.cat/portal/en/4/70238
When I was here 2 years ago, the hospital had just relocated to the new buildings, and restoration work had barely begun in the old complex. At that time, anyone was free to wander the grounds, though I did take a guided tour. Due to the lack of advertising, I was the only person on the tour then.
2 years later, the complex now has a new mission and a commission - it is to be the HQ for the Mediterranean Union, for the exchange of culture and ideas. Renovation and restoration work is in full swing and the entire site is off-limits unless one joins the guided tour. This time, we had a big group and we all had to don hard hats because it is an active construction site. Sadly, the main entrance building is under scaffolding AND is completely off-limits. IMHO, the most beautiful construction and decoration lies within that building. OTOH, this tour is completely different than the tour I took 2 years ago. We went inside the subterranean tunnels (for patient transport) and one of the restored pavilions, so we got a sense of what the hospital wards looked like. I was told that by some time in 2012, the renovations of the main entrance building will be done and that will be visited on the tour then.
Back facade of Main entrance building http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6826.jpg
Surgical pavilion
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6827.jpg
Other buildings on hospital grounds http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6833.jpg
Main patient ward in one of the pavilions
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6831.jpg
Decorated tiles on the walls of the ward
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6832.jpg
Our tour ended up lasting close to 2 hours - our tour guide was beyond enthusiastic. All 4 of us paid half-price at €5: M&D had the senior rate, DH & I used our 50%-off voucher. We decided to go home for lunch and a rest after several hours of sightseeing this morning.
Later in the afternoon, we visited <B>Casa Mila</B>. It is the only site we visited that does not offer senior discounts, and audioguide is extra. A regular ticket is €15; and although DH & I used our 20%-off vouchers, we ended up paying €16 with audioguide included.
Exterior facade http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6844.jpg
Main courtyard http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6834.jpg
Gated entrance for vehicles http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6836.jpg
Looking down one of the courtyards from the roof http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6841.jpg
Roof top http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6838.jpg
For dinner, we went to a place where sis-in-law & I found on our 2009 trip, El Tropezón. It's a tiny place in Barri Gotic; its interior decor is rustic & very basic and tends to turn tourists off. In fact, after we sat down at one of the tables, a rotund man came in and started talking to us. We all thought he was a drunk and were ready to shoo him away, only to then find out he is the proprietor! We ordered 7 tapa dishes: cod fritters, calamari, pan con tomate, "la bomba", potato bravas, grilled octopus, spinach empanda. Most of the dishes was deep fried, so they tasted good. This meal was ridiculously cheap - €32!
You can see 4 of the dishes here: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6845.jpg
After dinner, DH & I walked along Passeig de Colom and up La Rambla to Liceu opera house, where we attended an excerpted concert version of Gounod's Faust (parents went home). http://www.liceubarcelona.cat/en/eve...o-concert.html
I felt bad dragging DH to see Faust while we were in Barcelona. Not only it was a concert version, it was also sung in French with Catalan supertitles, which means we had no clue whatsoever of what was going on. The redeeming thing is that being the excerpted version, they skipped the boring parts.
The main reason I wanted to go is because of 2 singers: Piotr Beczala and Erwin Schrott. Both of them were quite good but I thought Beczala's voice sounded a bit strained. Erwin Schrott not only sang well, he was also dressed in all black with a leather trench coat, adorned with a red rose in the buttonhole... looking quite like the devil.
The surprise of the evening was soprano Krassimira Stoyanova singing Marguerite. She has an active career in Europe but rarely crosses over the pond to the US.
We actually enjoyed the concert a lot - more than I had expected. Nonetheless, we left after intermission. The first half alone was 90 minutes and the second half was another hour. We were just wiped out after long days of sightseeing.
Here's the view of the Liceu interior from our seats:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6849.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6851.jpg
Nov 13th, 2011, 01:10 PM
#5
great report, yk, with some terrific tips about easy ways to get about. i particularly like the detail about the buses - and the food of course!
your mum and dad were lucky to have you along, i think.
your mum and dad were lucky to have you along, i think.
Nov 13th, 2011, 01:47 PM
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thanks for the pics....it is time to visit SF again!
Last time for me was in March 2009 ......great progress. Looks stunning
on my stay in Barcelona this Oct. I went to Hospita Santa Pau and wonders around on my own.
A surprisingly big ( and beautiful) complex.
I had to visit the bull ring/ shopping mall. For me, it did not work ...nice view from the top.
looking forward to more ....
Last time for me was in March 2009 ......great progress. Looks stunning
on my stay in Barcelona this Oct. I went to Hospita Santa Pau and wonders around on my own.
A surprisingly big ( and beautiful) complex.
I had to visit the bull ring/ shopping mall. For me, it did not work ...nice view from the top.
looking forward to more ....
Nov 13th, 2011, 01:51 PM
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<b>Day 5</b> Barri Gotic, Barceloneta etc
We spent this Saturday morning in Barri Gotic - the old city center of Barcelona. We stopped by <b>Cathedral La Seu</b>, and then wandered the narrow streets making our way to Placa del Rei and Placa Sant Jaume. After about 90 minutes, we arrived at <b>Palau de la Musica Catalana</b> so M&D could take their 12 noon English guided tour (we bought the tickets earlier in the morning). Their senior tickets were half-off at €7,50pp. One should always plan to book the guided tour tickets in advance as they sell out frequently. You can also book online, but online booking does not offer senior tickets.
http://www.palaumusica.org/
One of the original ticket window http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6855.jpg
While they were on the tour, DH & I took the opportunity to shop at El Corte Ingles, the large department store at Placa Catalunya. It has a huge supermarket in the basement, where DH purchased some food souvenirs for his colleagues back home.
At 1pm, we picked up M&D and walked through El Born district to get to <b>La Paradeta</b> for lunch. http://www.laparadeta.com/ Near the Born market, this place is recommended by DH colleague's sister, who lived in Barcelona for several years. La Paradeta is quite unique - it's set up as a seafood stall at the front - you choose the types of seafood you'd like and they cook it for you. I was worried about not knowing Spanish for the ordering & transactions, but fortunately the staff there do speak some English. It was a bit hard to gauge how much to order, as they weigh the the seafood right then and there, but I guess we did okay.
We ordered cockles (the tiny clams), razor clams, baby octopus, grilled shrimp, salad, bread and drinks. We then sat at a table and waited for them to call our number (in Spanish!). Everything was superb - really the freshest seafood I've had for a very long time. Our lunch was just shy of €50 as I recall.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6856.jpg
After lunch, we visited the <b>Parc de la Ciutadella</b> nearby where we saw the modernisme Castel dels Tres Dragons - built as the restaurant for the 1888 Universal Exposition. Nearby is the Arc de Triomphe which was the grand entrance to the Universal Exposition. We also saw the Cascada fountain which had some elements designed by the then-young Gaudi.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6857.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6858.jpg
Slowly but surely, we made our way to <b>Barceloneta</b> by way of the Olympic village. Barceloneta is a stretch of development along the beach with new buildings/condos and hip restaurants. Mamy locals were taking advantage of the warm weather and dining on the outdoor patios of the restaurants. We walked along the beachfront for a while and then took bus #59 back home.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6860.jpg
We ate an early dinner in the apartment, then walked out to Passeig de Garcia to visit <b>Palau Baró de Quadras</b> designed by Puig i Cadafalch. It now houses Casa Asia (free admission) but the beautiful modernisme interior decorations remain. http://www.casaasia.eu/casa_asia/donde_estamos
M&D continued on their leisurely stroll, while DH & I hurried along to Palau de la Musica Catalana for a concert of Spanish guitar music featuring Rolando Saad and the Sinfonietta de Sofia. The orchestra playing was so-so but we did enjoy the guitar and the music (several pieces written by Joaquin Rodrigo).
We spent this Saturday morning in Barri Gotic - the old city center of Barcelona. We stopped by <b>Cathedral La Seu</b>, and then wandered the narrow streets making our way to Placa del Rei and Placa Sant Jaume. After about 90 minutes, we arrived at <b>Palau de la Musica Catalana</b> so M&D could take their 12 noon English guided tour (we bought the tickets earlier in the morning). Their senior tickets were half-off at €7,50pp. One should always plan to book the guided tour tickets in advance as they sell out frequently. You can also book online, but online booking does not offer senior tickets.
http://www.palaumusica.org/
One of the original ticket window http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6855.jpg
While they were on the tour, DH & I took the opportunity to shop at El Corte Ingles, the large department store at Placa Catalunya. It has a huge supermarket in the basement, where DH purchased some food souvenirs for his colleagues back home.
At 1pm, we picked up M&D and walked through El Born district to get to <b>La Paradeta</b> for lunch. http://www.laparadeta.com/ Near the Born market, this place is recommended by DH colleague's sister, who lived in Barcelona for several years. La Paradeta is quite unique - it's set up as a seafood stall at the front - you choose the types of seafood you'd like and they cook it for you. I was worried about not knowing Spanish for the ordering & transactions, but fortunately the staff there do speak some English. It was a bit hard to gauge how much to order, as they weigh the the seafood right then and there, but I guess we did okay.
We ordered cockles (the tiny clams), razor clams, baby octopus, grilled shrimp, salad, bread and drinks. We then sat at a table and waited for them to call our number (in Spanish!). Everything was superb - really the freshest seafood I've had for a very long time. Our lunch was just shy of €50 as I recall.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6856.jpg
After lunch, we visited the <b>Parc de la Ciutadella</b> nearby where we saw the modernisme Castel dels Tres Dragons - built as the restaurant for the 1888 Universal Exposition. Nearby is the Arc de Triomphe which was the grand entrance to the Universal Exposition. We also saw the Cascada fountain which had some elements designed by the then-young Gaudi.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6857.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6858.jpg
Slowly but surely, we made our way to <b>Barceloneta</b> by way of the Olympic village. Barceloneta is a stretch of development along the beach with new buildings/condos and hip restaurants. Mamy locals were taking advantage of the warm weather and dining on the outdoor patios of the restaurants. We walked along the beachfront for a while and then took bus #59 back home.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6860.jpg
We ate an early dinner in the apartment, then walked out to Passeig de Garcia to visit <b>Palau Baró de Quadras</b> designed by Puig i Cadafalch. It now houses Casa Asia (free admission) but the beautiful modernisme interior decorations remain. http://www.casaasia.eu/casa_asia/donde_estamos
M&D continued on their leisurely stroll, while DH & I hurried along to Palau de la Musica Catalana for a concert of Spanish guitar music featuring Rolando Saad and the Sinfonietta de Sofia. The orchestra playing was so-so but we did enjoy the guitar and the music (several pieces written by Joaquin Rodrigo).
Nov 13th, 2011, 01:52 PM
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YK:
you can take a second look at Schrott performance in Barcelona at:
http://erwinschrott.net/Page_de_Blog_box_1.html
We, as uruguayans are very proud of Schrott; a native of this country.
We really like Barcelona and really enjoyed your report,taking notes for a future(third) visit.Thanks you!!!!!
you can take a second look at Schrott performance in Barcelona at:
http://erwinschrott.net/Page_de_Blog_box_1.html
We, as uruguayans are very proud of Schrott; a native of this country.
We really like Barcelona and really enjoyed your report,taking notes for a future(third) visit.Thanks you!!!!!
Nov 13th, 2011, 03:43 PM
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yk, we really enjoyed your report and are glad that you had a nice trip. We were in Barcelona in October of 2010; so enjoyed re-living some of the experiences. We didn't post a report on our trip, but after a week in Barcelona, we spent a few days on Mallorca. Very enjoyable! Would recommend it if you return to the area. We're wondering if you're the same "yk" who posted the report about Acadia National Park. If so, we were able to profit from some of your experiences, and your report prompted us to post our first report after that trip.
Nov 13th, 2011, 06:58 PM
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annhig & danon, thanks for your comments!
tomarkot, yes, I'm the same yk who went to Acadia National Park earlier this fall. I'm glad you're enjoying this report.
jelopez33, thanks for posting the link to Erwin Schrott's Blog about Faust in Barcelona! I didn't realize the concert version was due to a cut in budget. It's wonderful to read about Schrott's own thoughts about this and about the costume he decided to wear for the concert.
I'll finish the report tomorrow. Thank you all for reading!
tomarkot, yes, I'm the same yk who went to Acadia National Park earlier this fall. I'm glad you're enjoying this report.
jelopez33, thanks for posting the link to Erwin Schrott's Blog about Faust in Barcelona! I didn't realize the concert version was due to a cut in budget. It's wonderful to read about Schrott's own thoughts about this and about the costume he decided to wear for the concert.
I'll finish the report tomorrow. Thank you all for reading!
Nov 13th, 2011, 09:46 PM
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Nice report. Thanks for taking the time to organize and report.
I find using the metro in a new city fairly easy since you always know where you are. I agree that buses are more visually appealing but I find it more difficult to know where you are (and when to get off). Any specific recommendations for using buses in Barcelona? Sounds like you have it mastered.
I find using the metro in a new city fairly easy since you always know where you are. I agree that buses are more visually appealing but I find it more difficult to know where you are (and when to get off). Any specific recommendations for using buses in Barcelona? Sounds like you have it mastered.
Nov 14th, 2011, 08:34 AM
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susanna, enjoy your trip in February. My first visit to Barcelona was Feb 2008 - it's a great time to go because of fewer tourists and still very nice weather (esp compared to Boston where I live)!
indydad, I think if you're used to taking buses in different cities when you travel, you won't have much trouble with the ones in Barcelona. I'll give more details about it at the end of my trip report.
danon, thanks for your kind words again!
indydad, I think if you're used to taking buses in different cities when you travel, you won't have much trouble with the ones in Barcelona. I'll give more details about it at the end of my trip report.
danon, thanks for your kind words again!
Nov 14th, 2011, 08:57 AM
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Yk, thank you for this great report. We are arriving in Barcelona this weekend for a 2 day stay so trying to prioritize what to see. We are debating taking the Barcelona Tours buses so that we can quickly move from site to site.
How long was the wait in front of Sagrada Familia? Would some time of the day, for example 1pm on Monday have usually less crowd?
How long was the wait in front of Sagrada Familia? Would some time of the day, for example 1pm on Monday have usually less crowd?
Nov 14th, 2011, 09:13 AM
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<b>Day 6</b> Montserrat day trip; a snafu
We waited until our FINAL full day in Barcelona - a Sunday - to visit Montserrat. If you recall my earlier post, we had planned to go on Day 2, but that was scrapped after DH fell ill that morning. The next few days we had crummy weather which was not conducive for a visit to Montserrat. In hindsight, if we hadn't already purchased the tickets (on arrival day), I would have suggested skipping it in lieu of more time in Barcelona.
Anyway, we woke up to bright sunshine and cloudless blue sky, a good omen for our day trip. IMO, it's not worth going to Montserrat unless it's a perfectly clear day. Of course, I'd make an exception for those who are religious and want to go there as a pilgrimage.
I have explained the ticket options and travel details to Montserrat on this previous thread from 2009:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...omment-6083422
But to recap, We bought 2 TotMontserrat and 2 TransMontserrat tickets. Both types of ticket include:
1. R/t metro ride to and from Placa Espanya
2. R/t train ride from Placa Espanya to Montserrat
3. Cable car <B>OR</B> rack railway from Montserrat train station up to the monastery [You have to specify which one when you buy your ticket; no mix-and-match]
4. Unlimited rides on the Sant Joan and Santa Cova funiculars
5. Audio-visual tour of the monastery
The pricier TotMonteserrat (€38,45) also includes a lunch at the cafeteria and admission to the museum; vs TransMontserrat at €23,10. In retrospect, I should have skipped the Tot package as we ended up not having enough time to visit the museum (€8 admission fee).
We took the 9:36am R5 train from Placa Espanya to Montserrat. Train runs 1x/hr and the trip takes just over 1 hour. Since we opted for the <b>Aeri</b> (Cable car) option, we got off at the Montserrat-Aeri station. Here's where we first encountered a problem.
When I visited Montserrat with my sis-in-law 2 years ago in November, we went on a Monday and there were no lines anywhere. However, perhaps because it's still high season and because it's a Sunday, there were MANY MANY MANY more people. Even though we were the first to get off the train and got to the cable car station, when we arrived, there were lots of people in line ahead of us. [They must have driven there instead of taking the train.] As each cable car only carries 30 people and it runs every 15 minutes, we ended up wasting over 30 minutes waiting in line just to get on. Once we're airborne, the cable car takes just 5 minutes to get to the monastery.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6861.jpg
Although we had clear blue sky back in Barcelona, the monastery was shrouded in thick mist & clouds, and it was quite chilly. There was a mass ongoing inside the Basilica, so we wandered around the complex for a bit, did the audio-visual tour (free w/our tickets; kind of lame), and then headed for lunch. The TotMontserrat lunch includes 5 items: first course (salad or soup), main course, any drink (even alcohol), bread, and dessert. Like last time, the food really wasn't that great, even though it was fresh out of the kitchen.
There was another mass being held when we finished lunch, so we couldn't go inside the Basilica. The funiculars (both up to Sant Joan and down to Santa Cova) were also taking their lunch break. We had really no choice but to stand in the long line to see the famed Black Madonna, which took a full hour. By then, the mass was over so we went inside the Basilica for a visit.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6862.jpg
Next we took the Santa Cova funicular down and walked along the path to see the cave where the Black Madonna statue was originally discovered. I particularly like this "hike" because the view is great and there are 15 sculptures along the way which keep us occupied.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6868.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6871.jpg
There were lines for the funiculars so that ate up a lot of our time. We also took the Sant Joan funicular up but we pretty much had to turn back immediately because there was a long line to go back down.
By then, it was getting late so we decided to skip the museum. We got some coffee and did some shopping, and then spent a good 30+ minutes in line to take the cable car back down the mountain (this was around 6pm). There were over 100 people in front of us and we were afraid that we would miss the last train home. Luckily, at the end of the day, they run the cable car as quickly as possible instead of every 15 minutes; otherwise, we really would miss the train and be stuck in Montserrat!
We should not have done this on a Sunday because of the crowds. And we would have saved some time if we were to take the rack railway up the mountain instead of the cable car, as the railway carries many more passengers than the cable car. Also, we should have not bothered with the more expensive Tots ticket because we never used them for the museum (which I did visit on my previous trip). I miscalculated the amount of time we needed because:
1) crowds and lines everywhere
2) more masses held at the Basilica on Sunday [we couldn't even squeeze our way in to hear the famous boy's choir]
3) traveling with my mom means walking at a much slower pace than when I came here with my sis-in-law. Everything took longer
In the end, we took the 18:48 train back to Barcelona.
<b>Day 7</b> Departure
As I said in the beginning, the Barcelona trip is part I of our European trip. Part II is a 5-day stay in London. DH couldn't come w/us to London as he had to return to work. I bought 3 tickets for us on Easyjet from Barcelona to London Gatwick. Our departure time was the same as DH's flight to Boston (via Madrid).
Now that I've mastered the bus lines, we took Bus #44 to Sants train station instead of the metro. The bus stop is much closer to the apt than the metro station, and no flights of stairs invovled. Bus #44 terminates at Sants.
We then took the R2 train to the airport and we split up with DH. DH had to take the shuttle back to T1 for his Iberia flight. M, D & I simply walked over to T2 for our Easyjet flight.
What I didn't realize is that T2 is very spread out - divided into A, B, & C sections. The train station is near "C", but Easyjet flies out of "A." It is a good 3/4 - 1 mile walk all the way to A! But after we got there, everything went fine and we were on our way to London.
We waited until our FINAL full day in Barcelona - a Sunday - to visit Montserrat. If you recall my earlier post, we had planned to go on Day 2, but that was scrapped after DH fell ill that morning. The next few days we had crummy weather which was not conducive for a visit to Montserrat. In hindsight, if we hadn't already purchased the tickets (on arrival day), I would have suggested skipping it in lieu of more time in Barcelona.
Anyway, we woke up to bright sunshine and cloudless blue sky, a good omen for our day trip. IMO, it's not worth going to Montserrat unless it's a perfectly clear day. Of course, I'd make an exception for those who are religious and want to go there as a pilgrimage.
I have explained the ticket options and travel details to Montserrat on this previous thread from 2009:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...omment-6083422
But to recap, We bought 2 TotMontserrat and 2 TransMontserrat tickets. Both types of ticket include:
1. R/t metro ride to and from Placa Espanya
2. R/t train ride from Placa Espanya to Montserrat
3. Cable car <B>OR</B> rack railway from Montserrat train station up to the monastery [You have to specify which one when you buy your ticket; no mix-and-match]
4. Unlimited rides on the Sant Joan and Santa Cova funiculars
5. Audio-visual tour of the monastery
The pricier TotMonteserrat (€38,45) also includes a lunch at the cafeteria and admission to the museum; vs TransMontserrat at €23,10. In retrospect, I should have skipped the Tot package as we ended up not having enough time to visit the museum (€8 admission fee).
We took the 9:36am R5 train from Placa Espanya to Montserrat. Train runs 1x/hr and the trip takes just over 1 hour. Since we opted for the <b>Aeri</b> (Cable car) option, we got off at the Montserrat-Aeri station. Here's where we first encountered a problem.
When I visited Montserrat with my sis-in-law 2 years ago in November, we went on a Monday and there were no lines anywhere. However, perhaps because it's still high season and because it's a Sunday, there were MANY MANY MANY more people. Even though we were the first to get off the train and got to the cable car station, when we arrived, there were lots of people in line ahead of us. [They must have driven there instead of taking the train.] As each cable car only carries 30 people and it runs every 15 minutes, we ended up wasting over 30 minutes waiting in line just to get on. Once we're airborne, the cable car takes just 5 minutes to get to the monastery.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6861.jpg
Although we had clear blue sky back in Barcelona, the monastery was shrouded in thick mist & clouds, and it was quite chilly. There was a mass ongoing inside the Basilica, so we wandered around the complex for a bit, did the audio-visual tour (free w/our tickets; kind of lame), and then headed for lunch. The TotMontserrat lunch includes 5 items: first course (salad or soup), main course, any drink (even alcohol), bread, and dessert. Like last time, the food really wasn't that great, even though it was fresh out of the kitchen.
There was another mass being held when we finished lunch, so we couldn't go inside the Basilica. The funiculars (both up to Sant Joan and down to Santa Cova) were also taking their lunch break. We had really no choice but to stand in the long line to see the famed Black Madonna, which took a full hour. By then, the mass was over so we went inside the Basilica for a visit.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6862.jpg
Next we took the Santa Cova funicular down and walked along the path to see the cave where the Black Madonna statue was originally discovered. I particularly like this "hike" because the view is great and there are 15 sculptures along the way which keep us occupied.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6868.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6871.jpg
There were lines for the funiculars so that ate up a lot of our time. We also took the Sant Joan funicular up but we pretty much had to turn back immediately because there was a long line to go back down.
By then, it was getting late so we decided to skip the museum. We got some coffee and did some shopping, and then spent a good 30+ minutes in line to take the cable car back down the mountain (this was around 6pm). There were over 100 people in front of us and we were afraid that we would miss the last train home. Luckily, at the end of the day, they run the cable car as quickly as possible instead of every 15 minutes; otherwise, we really would miss the train and be stuck in Montserrat!
We should not have done this on a Sunday because of the crowds. And we would have saved some time if we were to take the rack railway up the mountain instead of the cable car, as the railway carries many more passengers than the cable car. Also, we should have not bothered with the more expensive Tots ticket because we never used them for the museum (which I did visit on my previous trip). I miscalculated the amount of time we needed because:
1) crowds and lines everywhere
2) more masses held at the Basilica on Sunday [we couldn't even squeeze our way in to hear the famous boy's choir]
3) traveling with my mom means walking at a much slower pace than when I came here with my sis-in-law. Everything took longer
In the end, we took the 18:48 train back to Barcelona.
<b>Day 7</b> Departure
As I said in the beginning, the Barcelona trip is part I of our European trip. Part II is a 5-day stay in London. DH couldn't come w/us to London as he had to return to work. I bought 3 tickets for us on Easyjet from Barcelona to London Gatwick. Our departure time was the same as DH's flight to Boston (via Madrid).
Now that I've mastered the bus lines, we took Bus #44 to Sants train station instead of the metro. The bus stop is much closer to the apt than the metro station, and no flights of stairs invovled. Bus #44 terminates at Sants.
We then took the R2 train to the airport and we split up with DH. DH had to take the shuttle back to T1 for his Iberia flight. M, D & I simply walked over to T2 for our Easyjet flight.
What I didn't realize is that T2 is very spread out - divided into A, B, & C sections. The train station is near "C", but Easyjet flies out of "A." It is a good 3/4 - 1 mile walk all the way to A! But after we got there, everything went fine and we were on our way to London.
Nov 14th, 2011, 09:17 AM
#18
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keano, I honestly think that the lines will be bad anytime of the day! As I said, we didn't wait long to get in at 9am; but when we left around 11am, the line was noticeably longer. If you're so pressed for time, I highly recommend you buy the ONLINE tickets in advance (and pay the online fee) - this will allow you to SKIP THE LINE and go to the front.
Nov 14th, 2011, 09:44 AM
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<b>yk's "tips" on Barcelona</b>
1) There are lines at all the major sights (Casa Mila, Casa Battlo etc). So, either visit early at opening time, or visit late near closing time (but allow yourselves enough time to visit before they kick you out)! Otherwise, budget wait times in your tour schedule.
2) If there are seniors in your party (>65), don't forget to ask for senior tickets. Some attractions do NOT list senior prices at their ticket window even though they offer them. Most are at least €2-3 off or at most 50% off regular price.
3) SAFETY: This is my 3rd visit to Barcelona in 4 years, and all I can say is, I feel as SAFE in Barcelona as I do in other cities. Never did I notice any dodgy people or pickpockets or petty crime. I find La Rambla much neater and brightly lit at night than before, and I see plenty of police officers at crowded places patrolling. I know Barcelona gets a bad rep with pickpockets and petty crimes, but I think security has improved in recent years.
4) MAPS: Chances are, if you're staying at a hotel, you'll be provided with a free map (courtesy of El Corte Ingles). The tourist office no longer gives out free maps; so if you need one, just cross the street to El Corte Ingles at Placa Catalunya. On the ground floor (street level) there is a tourist souvenir section and a manned info desk. Just ask for a map and they'll give you one for free.
5) TRANSPORT: the T-10 ticket is the way to go. They can be used by multiple people, and includes free transfers up to 90 minutes. It is by far the cheapest public transport in Europe! The TMB (transport website) is quite helpful: http://www.tmb.cat/en/home
6) BUSES: I don't find it particularly challenging to take the buses in Barcelona; but one thing that helps is that I'm already familiar with the layout of the city and know what's where. There are NO bus maps you can pick up anywhere; BUT, at most bus stops (the ones that has a shelter), there is a large bus map posted. You can check the map for bus routes that way. Once on the bus, there is an announcement AND display for each stop. The display also shows bus & metro connections at the next stop. So, armed with a map, I don't have any problems with getting off at the right stop.
7) If you are a fan of Modernisme architecture and are in Barcelona for more than a day or two, I highly recommend getting the <b>Ruta del Modernisme</b> guidebook, which comes with a voucher booklet. You can purchase additional voucher booklets as well. The guidebook has detailed descriptions of each site, with colored photos and maps in the back. http://www.rutadelmodernisme.com/def...eslarutaen.htm
8) I find major price inflation at all the attractions in Barcelona, but was very surprised by how cheap grocery is. Even my parents who live in Houston and are used to cheap prices there, agree with me. So, by staying at an apt and preparing some meals, we were able to spend a week in Barcelona on a modest budget.
<b>Parting thoughts</b>
I'm sure some of you noticed that we visited not a single museum on this trip: no Picasso museum, no Joan Miro Foundation, no MNAC etc. I have been to all 3 before; and because my parents aren't into art, I felt that it's better to show them scenery and architecture that is unique to Barcelona.
Although we didn't cover all the sights in Barcelona, I feel that I have shown them the major ones; it is unlikely they'll ever return to Barcelona altho my dad says if he's still alive when Sagrada Familia is finally finished, he'd like to return then... probably in a wheelchair!
I think that's all I have to say on this trip report. Thanks again for reading this and I appreciate all your comments.
1) There are lines at all the major sights (Casa Mila, Casa Battlo etc). So, either visit early at opening time, or visit late near closing time (but allow yourselves enough time to visit before they kick you out)! Otherwise, budget wait times in your tour schedule.
2) If there are seniors in your party (>65), don't forget to ask for senior tickets. Some attractions do NOT list senior prices at their ticket window even though they offer them. Most are at least €2-3 off or at most 50% off regular price.
3) SAFETY: This is my 3rd visit to Barcelona in 4 years, and all I can say is, I feel as SAFE in Barcelona as I do in other cities. Never did I notice any dodgy people or pickpockets or petty crime. I find La Rambla much neater and brightly lit at night than before, and I see plenty of police officers at crowded places patrolling. I know Barcelona gets a bad rep with pickpockets and petty crimes, but I think security has improved in recent years.
4) MAPS: Chances are, if you're staying at a hotel, you'll be provided with a free map (courtesy of El Corte Ingles). The tourist office no longer gives out free maps; so if you need one, just cross the street to El Corte Ingles at Placa Catalunya. On the ground floor (street level) there is a tourist souvenir section and a manned info desk. Just ask for a map and they'll give you one for free.
5) TRANSPORT: the T-10 ticket is the way to go. They can be used by multiple people, and includes free transfers up to 90 minutes. It is by far the cheapest public transport in Europe! The TMB (transport website) is quite helpful: http://www.tmb.cat/en/home
6) BUSES: I don't find it particularly challenging to take the buses in Barcelona; but one thing that helps is that I'm already familiar with the layout of the city and know what's where. There are NO bus maps you can pick up anywhere; BUT, at most bus stops (the ones that has a shelter), there is a large bus map posted. You can check the map for bus routes that way. Once on the bus, there is an announcement AND display for each stop. The display also shows bus & metro connections at the next stop. So, armed with a map, I don't have any problems with getting off at the right stop.
7) If you are a fan of Modernisme architecture and are in Barcelona for more than a day or two, I highly recommend getting the <b>Ruta del Modernisme</b> guidebook, which comes with a voucher booklet. You can purchase additional voucher booklets as well. The guidebook has detailed descriptions of each site, with colored photos and maps in the back. http://www.rutadelmodernisme.com/def...eslarutaen.htm
8) I find major price inflation at all the attractions in Barcelona, but was very surprised by how cheap grocery is. Even my parents who live in Houston and are used to cheap prices there, agree with me. So, by staying at an apt and preparing some meals, we were able to spend a week in Barcelona on a modest budget.
<b>Parting thoughts</b>
I'm sure some of you noticed that we visited not a single museum on this trip: no Picasso museum, no Joan Miro Foundation, no MNAC etc. I have been to all 3 before; and because my parents aren't into art, I felt that it's better to show them scenery and architecture that is unique to Barcelona.
Although we didn't cover all the sights in Barcelona, I feel that I have shown them the major ones; it is unlikely they'll ever return to Barcelona altho my dad says if he's still alive when Sagrada Familia is finally finished, he'd like to return then... probably in a wheelchair!
I think that's all I have to say on this trip report. Thanks again for reading this and I appreciate all your comments.
