latedaytraveler

SATURDAY, JUNE 29: After a leisurely breakfast and a quick read of the Times, I packed up and checked out of the Strand Palace, leaving my luggage to be retrieved later. The day was glorious, but getting hot. I decided to stroll down WHITEHALL, that famous thoroughfare lined with government buildings and statuary between Trafalgar Square and the Parliament. To mention a few memorials: “MONTY,” dashing Viscount Montgomery the Queen’s cousin and hero of Alamein; DOUGLAS HAIG, commander of British troops in France in WWI; and moving more recent NATION MONUMENT TO THE WOMEN OF WW II, unveiled in 2005.

The CENOTAPH, Britain’s premier war memorial dedicated in 1920, was obscured behind scaffolding. Presumably it is being readied for commemoration of the centennial of World War I in 2014. (Like Waterloo, another awkward moment given the UKs congenial relationship with Germany today.)

I had briefly considered going to the TATE BRITAIN MUSEUM, on Millbank to check out their classic Turner collection and new Lowry exhibit, but had to admit that I was getting a bit “museumed out” at that point. However, I was now standing before the HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY MUSEUM better known as HORSE GUARDS (£6), a no-brainer. The Horse Guards building is an impressive Palladian affair, built in 1753, at whose entrance two mounted guards stand in marble gatehouses in full regalia much to the delight of tourists along Whitehall.

The Museum was opened by the Queen in 2007 to showcase “over 350 years of military history and reflect the unique ceremonial and operational role of the Regiment.” The Horse Guards are real soldiers who, in addition to guarding Her Majesty, also serve in modern peacekeeping missions in Afghanistan and Iraq. Interactive displays tell their story both at home and abroad.

This is an operational museum where visitors gain a unique behind-the-scenes look at the working stables through a large glazed partition. The horses are magnificent. Guardsmen are available with “first- hand accounts of what this training is like and the techniques our soldiers use to master their horses and complete the grueling preparations for regimental inspections.”

Of interest to me was an exhibition of ceremonial dress and regalia worn by the Guards’ officers in the 19th century. To be “an officer and a gentlemen” in those days required cash up front because military commissions were purchased by individuals, or more likely by their families if they were a younger sons. In the high Victorian period when British wars were few, the officers lived a lavish lifestyle, highlighted by dress balls, concerts, and all manner of social engagements. Characters of this ilk wander in and out of novels of the period.

The Household Cavalry Museum is small, doable, and rather unique. As I was leaving, I noticed a family with children having a great time trying on the present day military fatigues and the traditional ceremonial regalia and breast plates, along with those fabulous hats with streamers worn by the guards at the gate. What fun! Another mental note for my grandchildren’s visit to London.

http://www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk/

Outside, the weather was steamy. Whitehall was now closed to traffic. Why? For the GAY PRIDE PARADE to start at 1 PM. Some 150,000 participants were expected to march. Reaching Trafalgar Square, I stopped for one more soft-serve ice cream at Adelaide’s before picking up my luggage at the Strand Palace and hailing a cab to my new digs, the RADISSON BLU EDWARDIAN GRAFTON HOTEL on Tottenham Court Road not far from Euston Station. This was the beginning of my “Heart of Wales and England” seven night tour with CIE Tours International - $2,256 with single supplement.

http://www.cietours.com/us/escorted_...nd_england_8d/

The hotel was decent, an older building recently renovated, immediately beside the WARREN STREET TUBE STATION on the Northern line which went directly into Trafalgar Square. After unpacking, I headed for REGENT’S PARK, a 440 acre lush oasis in the heart of north London - about a 15 minute walk.

The garden was gorgeous behind its ornamental iron gates. But how to get in? Then I realized that it was not Regent’s Park, but the private PARK SQUARE GARDEN belonging to residents of PARK CRESCENT, the elegant stuccoed terraced houses across the street designed by architect John Nash (1752- 1835). Such quiet class. One house belonged to the PRINCE’S TRUST, a charity founded by Prince Charles in 1976 to help disadvantaged youth with employment, education, and vocational training. On closer inspection I noticed that Park Crescent bore the inscription of the Crown. Among their rental properties, I guess.

Regent’s Park is huge, but I enjoyed the gardens nearest to Euston Road. Such lovely flowers and tranquility after the bustle of central London! I even took out my IPhone and snapped a few pics. The weather was gorgeous. I did not venture beyond to the QUEEN MARY’S GARDEN, the LONDON ZOO, or REGENT’S CANAL all of which are part of this royal park. Nor did I make it to PRIMROSE HILL, another famous park just north of Regent’s which affords great views of London amidst lush lawns and gardens.

The ill-fated American poet SYLVIA PLATH and her husband, former British poet laureate TED HUGHES, had lived nearby at 3 Chalcot Square. But on my way back to the hotel, I did wander down FITZROY STREET, a humbler abode off Euston Road where the couple lived before moving up to Primrose Hill.

The tour group gathered at six o’clock in the hotel dining room for an introductory remarks and dinner – a very ample hot buffet which featured roast lamb and delicious salmon, two of my favorite dishes.

Tomorrow off to the TOWER OF LONDON and away we go …

Cathinjoetown

I've stayed at three of the Radisson Blu Edwardian Hotels, Vanderbilt, Berkshire and Mountbatten (now Mercer), all good locations and nice public rooms but most guest rooms are very small. I remember one very hot night at the Mountbatten as there was no AC, but this was 8-9 years ago.

Minor nit, Mountbatten was the queen's second cousin and Prince Phillip's uncle. I don't think Montgomery had any royal relations although some would say he acted as if he did.

latedaytraveler

Cathinjoetown,

When I left the STRAND PALACE and told the taxi driver that I wanted to got to RADISSON BLU EDWARDIAN at 130 Tottenham Court Road, he said that he never heard of it. I had forgotten to add the operative word “GRAFTON.” There are so many Radissons! I liked the location near to Regent’s Park, the British Library, and St. Pancras.

Thanks for the correction. Must have confused Monty with Mountbatten LOL.

susan001

That's a very affordable tour rate (including single supplement). I will also be joining a tour after a week of traveling solo in Belgium & France, but I didn't get a bargain. Looking forward to reading about your tour experience.

latedaytraveler

Hi Susan,

Thank you for following along. I agree this price was fair for a single supplement. Six dinners were also included with no “optional” extras. The hotels were all very acceptable and centrally located. More to follow.

May I ask what tour you are taking? There are plusses and minuses with them all, of course.

latedaytraveler

SUNDAY, JUNE 30: After yet another hearty breakfast, our tour director Brian introduced us to Vivian, a certified Blue Badge guide with whom we would “see” London. The weather was great and I never tire of the scenery. As we drove, she pointed out a posh section of Kennsington with which I was not familiar – called it “Millionaire’s Row” or something.

I had read recently that the most exclusive areas of Mayfair and Belgravia are now almost entirely owned by foreign potentates (who visit infrequently) so that these neighborhoods seem deserted. We stopped briefly at the ALBERT MEMORIAL, that overstated testament to Queen Victoria’s grief for her consort who died young.

http://www.aviewoncities.com/london/albertmemorial.htm

After twirling through TRAFALGAR SQUARE (yet again) and passing a few more popular sites, we arrived at TOWER OF LONDON where the coach was parked in its huge garage. Although this was my fourth trip to London (but who’s counting?), I had only seen the enormous Tower grounds from the HOHO bus or from a Thames cruise. Last year I started to read a new history of the Tower but had to abandon it because the story of its royal occupants through the centuries was too convoluted and bloody for me.

The WHITE TOWER, the iconic foursquare stone fortification/royal residence with sturdy turrets at each corner, was built by WILLIAM THE CONQUERER in 1078 and became “a resented symbol of oppression, inflicted upon London by the new ruling elite.” Over the centuries several buildings and two concentric defensive walls were built including a moat. The multi-lingual official leaflet given to visitors lists 44 points of interest on a map of this12 acre site. The grounds are meticulously kept with greenery and flower beds amidst a variety of battlements.

We all headed immediately for the CROWN JEWELS housed in the WATERLOO BLOCK, an uphill trek from the entrance. These treasures include the regalia and vestments worn by the sovereign during the coronation ceremony along with crowns, scepters, orbs, rings and the like. The queue was long but moved quickly. Inside the building, the corridors are dark with lights focused on royal portraits and informational plaques describing the history of the collection. As we approached the room where the Crown Jewels are displayed, we passed through two enormous steel doors flung open to admit us to the vault. The room is dark with effective lighting hitting the jewels which are encased behind glass. Two “people movers” such as we see at airport terminals run alongside the main cases allowing visitors to see the jewels, but not malinger.

http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/stories/crownjewels

The piece de resistance was the ST. EDWARD’S CROWN, exhibited in its solitary splendor in a separate case before the exit. This crown was worn by Queen Elizabeth on her Coronation Day in 1953 and brought out again for the commemoration of that event this June at WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Words fail me…

http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/...95210020130604

Although a visitor could spend hours at the Tower of London, our time was limited which was OK with me because I was not inclined to climb the various battlements. Instead, I sat and enjoyed the view of the castle, the lovely gardens, and the view of the Thames below. Just before the exit, I looked down on a large expanse of grass (formerly the moat) where the costumed Yeoman Warders were leading a group of children in a variety of games. Some were shooting with bow and arrow, while others were engaged in race. A daily program of “special events” is available for those wishing a participatory experience at the Tower. Another note for the grandkids’ trip, eh?

The weather was really getting hot – 27.2 Celsius which translates into 87 degrees in my book. Brian told us that the coach would let us off as near to Trafalgar Square or drop us back at the Radisson. I chose to get off because I had planned to visit SPENCER HOUSE, a magnificently restored stately home associated with Princess Diana and Winston Churchill.

http://www.spencerhouse.co.uk/

In early afternoon the crowds around Trafalgar Square were enormous. Wimbledon was still on, and then we had many of the 150,000 marchers from the previous day’s Gay Pride Parade to name a few. Let’s not forget the HENLEY ROYAL REGATTA held downstream on the Thames. When I left Logan Airport in Boston the week before, I saw the Trinity College, Hartford crew team, resplendent in their navy blazers with back packs embroidered with “Henley Regatta” on them. They looked so handsome, excited, and happy to be going. Hope they did well.

Hot and thirsty, I stopped at the Golden Arches on Whitehall for a “McFlurry” ice cream which was ample and delicious. Then I trudged up through Trafalgar Square and across to PALL MALL, a major road somewhat parallel to THE Mall, which runs down to St. James Palace not far from SPENCER HOUSE. The road looked long and daunting. Suppose that Spencer House was closed for the day, just as Mansion House had been when I planned to visit? Or suppose the tours were full? There is no previous booking.

My Oyster Card was burning a hole in my pocket. Turning around, I heading back to Charing Cross and was soon at Warren Street Station next to my hotel. I decided to turn in my Oyster Card which only had £3.70 plus the £5 deposit left. This can be done at any station. But the attendant told me that because I was not an EU member I had to show a passport. Really? A copy wouldn’t do. I suppose that this policy is to prevent criminal types from grabbing Oyster Cards at will and redeeming them for cash.

My hotel room looked cool and inviting as I stretched out and read the SUNDAY TIMES, a hefty package. Later I roused myself and had dinner at the Northumberland Pub on the corner. Others from the tour were drifting back to the hotel with tales of their adventures in London. I had had enough of the city and was looking forward to the country side. Tomorrow, on to Wales…

susan001

Hi LDT: In response to your question, I've signed up for a Rick Steves tour after being on my own for one week. It was nearly twice the price of yours, with single supplement, but for two weeks, instead of one. I don't regret it (yet), as it would be hard to manage a canoe trip down the Dordogne on my own. I know about the plusses and minuses of tours, having done two before. But I've never been on a RS tour, and hoping I'll like it. At least they keep the number of participants to 28 or less.

europeannovice

Hi latedaytraveler,

Did you go into the White Tower? Your grandkids might like all the arms and armour they have inside on your next trip with them.

Looking forward to your report on Wales.

bettyk

Susan, when do you leave for your trip?

latedaytraveler

Hi again Susan001,

Just checked your Rick Steves 13 day tour in France including the Dordogne – looks fabulous. Although I have never done one of his tours, my impression is that they are well received. I assume that most on the junket will be well-seasoned travelers. Hefting your own bags and a great deal of walking – good exercise. Dinner every other night gives you a chance to explore other options.

Please send a trip report of your experience. Sounds great…

latedaytraveler

Hi Europeannovice,

No, I did not go into the White Tower. After the lengthy jaunt through the Crown Jewels exhibit, I was happy to relax enjoying the grounds and the view. It was a beautiful day. I did see the suit of armor worn by Henry VIII in his later years at the V & A – enormous.

Thank you for following along. Wales coming up shortly.

susan001

Hi LDT,
I will let you know how it goes. I'm used to hefting my own bag (did quite a bit of this during my 10 overnight stop solo visit to Germany and Austria. I'm actually welcoming doing a little on my own, and then letting someone else get me there. I take a 22" rolling carry on, and have for the past decade. It makes travel so much easier. The itinerary really appealed to me. Yes, I could have done much of it on my own, but it certainly wouldn't have been hassle free.

bettyk

After taking our recent Danube River Cruise and tour, I agree that it is nice having someone else deal with the suitcases and the transportation.

latedaytraveler

MONDAY, JULY 1: This was my first CIE TOUR which I had chosen because it was relatively short and included WALES, the only part of the British Isles which I had not visited. Unlike other tours I have taken including INSIGHT, GLOBUS, and TRAFALGAR, I was the only solo traveler and all were American. Usually these jaunts have significant numbers of Aussies, Kiwis, Canadians, South Africans, among others making a colorful mix. The tour included dinner six out of seven nights at our respective hotels, offering a choice of three appetizers, main courses, and desserts. Only one meal was disappointing but was followed by a delicious custard with caramelized topping which made up for it.

As I mentioned above, I am not into fine dining so this arrangement was agreeable to me, especially after a long day on the road. No “optionals” to fancier dining venues or other attractions were offered so the price was quite reasonable. (By the way, I do not object to optionals when they are available, but that is another discussion.) All hotels were acceptable and CENTRALY LOCATED – and that is what is most important to me. With ample hot breakfasts, of course. Price: $2,256 with single supplement.

http://www.cietours.com/us/escorted_...nd_england_8d/

The tour included about 35 folks, all quite affable. The first night I met two gals from Chicago who were fun to travel with. Also met an attractive couple from Maryland, tennis enthusiasts who were still basking in the glow of having attended Wimbledon – an interesting experience. But what made the trip amusing was a mother and daughter team from sunny California on their first trip to Europe. The mother whom I will call “MUM” (about my vintage) was striking, beautifully dressed, and entertaining. She had been a costume designer in Hollywood. Her daughter was in her 40s, very attractive, with long blonde hair which she often wore in a thick French braid. Let’s call her RAPUNZEL because of her fascination with castles, her reason for coming to Wales. She was reading a modern novel with an updated Arthurian theme – not by Sir Thomas Mallory. At first I thought she was kidding, but as time went by I realized how obsessed she was with castles and all things royal and mystical. Rapunzel was also a nurse, a skill she was called upon to use on this trip.

We left London at 8 AM. Our guide BRIAN was discussing the transportation issues facing Britain, especially its clogged highways which are a hindrance to economic productivity in the UK. As we passed by the Heathrow exit, he said that some 72,000 people worked there every day. The volatile mayor of London, BORIS JOHNSON, has just suggested that Heathrow be closed down eventually and that a “mega airport” be built in the Thames Estuary by 2029. This guy thinks big – time will tell.

Before we got on the bus, I noticed that Mum was carrying a container of ice and had her right hand wrapped in a wash cloth. That morning she had picked up the wrong end of a curling iron – ouch! As we were sailing along to STONEHENGE, I observed a gal across the aisle a few seats down stand up to retrieve a piece of hand luggage from the overhead bin, a no-no. Then she accidentally dropped it on the woman in the seat behind her who took the blow directly on her face. It wasn’t pretty. The latter’s eye and mouth were swelling quickly and a few drops of blood were showing. So Rapunzel took the ice and cloth from Mum and ministered to the patient. By that time, the gal who had caused the problem was so upset and repentant that she was shaking. Everyone felt sorry for her too.

Soon we arrived at STONEHENGE which I had visited before. Truthfully, it is only of passing interest to me except (like everyone else who sees it) trying to fathom how these enormous stones were gathered and carted to this location. Rapunzel was thrilled with the place, the magic circle. I later told her about AVEBURY in Wiltshire which contains the largest stone circle in Europe – except that their stones are strewn amidst lovely farm and pasture land. She listened with rapt attention.

On to BATH, a delightful place which I was pleased to revisit. Traffic was tough getting into the city. While the crew toured the Roman Baths, I turned in the opposite direction across PULTENEY BRIDGE, one of the few covered bridges in the world with shops (think Ponte de Vecchio), which spans the River Avon. HOLBURNE MUSEUM was my destination which was visible some distance ahead up GREAT PULTENEY STREET. This grand thoroughfare, with sweeping, wide sidewalks, was developed in Bath’s hay day and was once the home of JANE AUSTEN. Its wide vista and uniform architecture made it a perfect backdrop for films such as VANITY FAIR, PERSUASION, and NORTHANGER ABBEY.

The HOLBURNE is another of those small, doable museums which I enjoy. Newly renovated and housed in what was originally a hotel with “pleasure gardens” in the rear, the building exudes 18th century elegance. Central to its collections are the paintings and letters of the famous portraitist THOMAS GAINSBOROUGH (1727-1788) who lived in Bath for many years. Those dandies and their ladies whom Austen so often described in her novels loved to have their portraits done by the artist. Of interest to devotees of the period are beautiful sets of silver and a Meissen porcelain dinner service arranged on a table in the middle of one of the galleries behind a floor to ceiling glass case which you could walk around. What a way to live!

http://www.holburne.org/

Hurrying back to meet the group, I stopped to admire the lovely PARADE GARDENS in the center of town. I was sorry that BATH ABBEY was closed – for graduation practice for the University of Bath we were told. Sitting on the sunny plaza near the Abbey, I chatted with trip mates Adele and her husband Dave from Phoenix. They had come off a ten day tour of Ireland and Scotland, were now on this seven day venture, and intended to meet Adele’s daughter and her family on our last day in Windsor to join them on a 12 day cruise to the Norway fjords. Wow! I had to ask Adele how she had packed for this extravaganza which she gladly explained to me. Adele mentioned that she was near to 75 although she did not look or act it. Originally from the Boston area, she had had quite a colorful career. We chatted several times during the trip, and she confided that her relationship with Dave was a “second trip.” They seemed very devoted. But all of this harried traveling would have unfortunate consequences a few days later.

Then on to CARDIFF, capital of WALES since 1955 and home to a variety of sporting teams and athletic venues. Cardiff’s history is inextricably linked to that of JOHN CRICHTON-STUART, 2ND MARQUESS OF BUTE, a Scottish aristocrat and industrialist who developed the iron and coal industries across South Wales and built the Cardiff Docks. Before arriving at our hotel we drove around Callahan Park (dominated by a statue of Bute) and some graceful Victorian styled government buildings in the city center before arriving at the nearby MALDRON HOTEL.

That evening we visited CARDIFF CASTLE, a complex which includes a stunning Medieval stone “keep” and a quirky Gothic revival mansion. The third Marquess of Bute engaged the architect William Burges to recreate his historical dream visions in a most fantastical manner in the mansion which is a great tourist attraction in the city. Money was no object. Interesting, but difficult to describe.

http://www.cardiffcastle.com/

Dinner and “entertainment” followed on the Castle grounds with some Welsh singing. A bit corny, but the music was good. As I looked out I noticed the outline castle keep, with the dragon flag of Wales flying, against the purple and pink summer twilight. I mentioned it to Rapunzel who ran out to take a photo before the sun set. She loved the castle….

Mathieu

LTD, the more I read of your ongoing adventures, the more I appreciate your delightfully precise and economical style of writing and charming story-telling manner sprinkled with factual history. It's a delicious mix made all the more interesting by your acute observations and wry humour. In other words, you write very well ! Thanks again for this new chapter of your travels of which I eagerly look forward to more.

I was at Cardiff Castle in the Fall of 2011 and spent a very pleasant afternoon there with aunts, uncles and cousins who convened from other parts of Wales and England so that we could briefly reunite over 2 days. I was quite taken with the castle, the ceremonial rooms and resident birds of prey who tore into several dead mice just for our benefit.

We visited St. Fagans for a full morning the next day (accompanied by the Cardiff relatives) which I think I enjoyed just as much if not more.

Waiting to see which castle over the next 7 days will be the one that (metaphorically) pushes Rapunzel over the edge, causing her to lean out of a window and let down her hair... hehe.

janisj

I've had a week of posts to catch up on . . . terrific report! I haven't yet made it to the Holburne - always get distracted by other/favorite sites in Bath. Won't make it in October but maybe next Spring.

I was fortunate to attend a Garden Party at the Palace back in the late 70's. We didn't have drinks tickets - but the champagne pours were a bit skimpy.

Looking forward to the rest of Wales.

latedaytraveler

Hi again Susan,

“I could have done much of it on my own, but it certainly wouldn't have been hassle free.” Absolutely agree.

I know that tours are frowned upon by many on this forum, but to me the convenience and predictability outweigh any other considerations. Your itinerary sounds wonderful. Please let us know how things work out.

BettyK, thanks for following along. Glad your Danube cruise and tour worked so well…

Cathinjoetown

The main thing about land tours that I don't like are the early morning departures. I note Rick Steves advertises two-day stays in many stops which would be a help. I also would not like the overall lack of control.

OTH, we are gradually warming to cruises having now done one transatlantic crossing, one eastern Med cruise and are signed up for another crossing next April. Like escorted tours, you don't have any flexibilty once you have chosen your cruise. Ports are for the most part snapshots similar to a tour. But, you still have almost complete control of your time, only unpack once and if you don't want to see a particular port, you don't have to.

We'd never rule out a land tour, it would make sense for us in some countries, China and SE Asia for example.

Looking forward to more of your account of Wales, I love it but know there are bits we have missed, particularly in the south.

latedaytraveler

Mathieu,

Thank you for your kind words. I do like to write and try to be as precise as possible with details – not so with my check book or sock drawer, if you know what I mean.

Glad that you had such a grand time at Cardiff Castle with your relatives. It’s a lovely place. Where/what is St. Fagan’s please?

Glad you are enjoying Rapunzel’s adventures. She was delightful. She even had a royal sighting when we reached Windsor. Stay tuned…

Mathieu

LDT, St Fagans is a large area just outside Cardiff (city) which encompasses a historic village and church, as well as the St.Fagans Natural History (living) museum which is what we visited.
Many historic buildings from around Wales have been moved to this area detailing Welsh life in previous centuries, and you can walk around guided paths of parkland and grounds (sometimes dotted with farm animals) visiting these buildings. On weekends they have artisans (such as bakers, confectioners, ironmongers, etc.) within these buildings making and selling product using stone ground flour and wood ovens. One of my aunts buys her bread there.

I mentioned it because I thought it might have been one of the places included in your tour. We enjoyed our time there as it gave us a chance to catch up with each other as we strolled around, and then an opportunity to tuck into tea and Welsh cakes.

http://www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/stfagans/