TR: Self indulgence in London and Venice

Old Oct 14th, 2014, 11:09 PM
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JJ - I think that you may have had a lucky escape with the Hampstead Walk. I'm sure i remember a recent thread by someone who did it and found herself abandoned by the guide in the middle of the Heath! Was it you lateDay?

[As you have pointed out elsewhere, JJ, the search function isn't working very well so there's no point in trying to find the thread to see who it was]
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 01:14 AM
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Hi ANNHIG,

"I think that you may have had a lucky escape with the Hampstead Walk. I'm sure i remember a recent thread by someone who did it and found herself abandoned by the guide in the middle of the Heath!"

Yes, I was the one. Amusing looking back, but not at the time. It was a lovely Saturday evening, Mid Summer's Eve when the guide on Londowalks decided to take a detour into the Heath. Dusk was falling and the path down into the woods was steep and rutted.

When we finally reached civilization, I hailed a cab and departed. Seriously, I really wanted to see more of Hampstead which is quite beautiful, a peaceful Victorian hamlet in the north of London.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 01:47 AM
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enjoying the report.

I stayed in that area last time I was in London and found it very convenient.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 02:27 AM
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Following along for more great ideas, thanks!
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 07:28 AM
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Loving this report and all the detailed info. Note to self: plan London trip! Waiting for more...
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 08:13 AM
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Janis, just want to say how I love your bold-faced "NEXT: at the end of each installment. Your reports attract a lot of followers, and it makes it so convenient to be able to scan for your next posting. Very well done ~ thanks!
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 08:42 AM
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vickiebypass: I stayed in a Studio Deluxe. The website says they have tub/showers, but after exchanging e-mails it turns out that class of room only has showers . . . But I think every room is a bit different.

Sunday Sept 28. A Royal Day out - B'ham Palace, Queen's Gallery, Royal Mews and watching the Ryder Cup at the Goat Tavern.

I booked what is called a Royal Day Out which is a single 10:AM ticket for the Queen's Gallery/Mews and the State Rooms. I booked over the phone because the site was a bit 'twitchy' and while talking to the agent she suggested doing the Gallery first - I didn't quite get the logic of that but that's what I did. With no tube service at Gloucester Rd and only Piccadilly at S Kens I had a few other options. Walk all the way; Tube to Green Park and walk to the Queens Gallery; Tube to Victoria via Green Park. Because my ankles were still sore I opted for the tube to Victoria since it is the closest to the Queens Gallery and Mews on B'ham Palace Rd.

The Gallery is a very manageable size and the collection rotates. I don't recall exactly but think I spent a little over an hour there. Lots of old masters of course, but also a terrific collection of drawings. The audio guide was very good but my main focus was the Palace and Children's exhibition so left a little after 11:00 for the Mews.

I've been in the Mews several times and mainly wanted to see the new, Australian-made Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Didn't take the tour, but did a brief look-see at all the other coaches and the couple of horses. (last time I visited there were no horses at all.) But the new coach . . . Amazing! That alone was worth the cost of admission.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/pict...ate-Coach.html

From there it was on to the State Rooms. I've been twice before but it seems better organized now and you aren't rushed along like sometimes in the past. I really enjoyed most of the childhood exhibit. Some was quite moving and I loved all the home movies. There was much more than I expected. The main exception was the round room lined w/ (possibly interesting) display cases . . . because I'm not quite sure. That room was a real bottleneck and was absolutely slammed - I'm short and really couldn't see much w/o forcing my way up to the cases. Otherwise it was a snail's pace inching along the entire circumference of the room. So I ended up missing some of that bit - just really REALLY crowded. The crowds in other rooms were much more dispersed.

Walked around the edge of the gardens and got some pretty photos (there is another ticket option that includes a tour of the gardens but it was booked up) and into the Gift shop. There were some really beautiful limited edition porcelain pieces and I chose a couple, a large plate and a tankard. Expensive but less than one might expect. Because one is a charger sized plate they would (just barely) not fit in the smallest shipping box. So I had to go up to a 'medium' box which was pretty enormous actually. The problem is . . . That box costs £60 for shipping (!). BUT - just like F&M it is a flat fee no matter the weight. . . . AHA -- so went around the entire shop (it is VERY large) collecting all sorts of bits and bobs from a decorative pillow, to christmas ornaments, a tea towel, tea caddy, small souvenirs for my tenant, kids in the neighborhood etc. I really filled that box - got my one's worth out of that £60!. And the VAT covered about 3/4 of the shipping cost.

From there I wanted to find a pub or something where I could watch the last day of the Ryder Cup. Not as easy as it seems. I didn't have a cell phone w/ me and I couldn't find a wifi connection to search w/ my mini iPad. So I walked across Green Park figuring some pub in Mayfair would likely have it on. Wandered semi-aimlessly till I came across the Goat Tavern in Stafford Street. http://www.taylor-walker.co.uk/pub/g...mayfair/c0628/ Was a good choice - Had venison pie and a couple of halfs of ales I hadn't had before. I was happy - I secretly root for the European side. Not because I'm anti- American . . . but because I met Rory once when he was about 14 . . . and have had a secret crush on Graeme McDowell for years

It was funny -- at 4PM apparently the TVs were pre-programmed to switch to some football pre-match telecast . . . and there was a huge outcry from everyone in the pub. There was a revolt on their hands and the staff had to figure out how to get the Ryder Cup back.

After the Europeans wrapped things up I was considering a soho pub walk the LW offers Sunday evening . . . But my ankles still hurt like heLL so I headed back to the hotel and watched Sunday night telly and finished up the cheese/biscuits/fruit/wine and relaxed.

Have a big day tomorrow: Monday. 'Late Turner' Exhibition at Tate Britain. BIG Splurge - Royal Opera House dinner at Balconies and the Barber of Seville.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 09:48 AM
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Janis, thank you. Love this report. Of course, love London, too.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 10:01 AM
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So happy to be reading this!
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 10:04 AM
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Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! I've been waiting for this TR. Thank you... following along with you.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 01:29 PM
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I'm enjoying your report, Janis and looking forward to more.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 03:36 PM
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Monday, Sept 29. 'Late Turner' Exhibition at Tate Britain. drinks with friends. BIG Splurge - Royal Opera House dinner at Balconies and the Barber of Seville.

Back in August I booked Monday tix to both the "Late Turner" exhibition at the Tate and to the Barber of Seville at the Royal Opera House. Then I heard from some friends who originally were going to be out of the city during my visit that they would be around Monday and possibly Tuesday. We planned to meet just for afternoon drinks before I went to the ROH.

My Turner ticket was for 10AM, and the tube is up and running normally today (except for Piccadilly line at Gloucester Rd) So I took the tube to Pimlico and walked over t Tate Britain. It was year another gorgeous day. Turner is one of my 3 or 4 favorite artists. This exhibition was some of his last works, and it was one of the best shows I've seen (after the expense of the ticket I think charging £4 for the audio guide is a bit much . . . but the narrative was really excellent/informative so worth it in the end). Spent a bit over 2 hours in the exhibit and then spent maybe 45 minutes briefly exploring a bit more of the gallery. I go to the Tate frequently so really didn't need to explore in depth much. Did have to visit Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose as I do every time

Today was also the press preview of the Turner Prize . . So I was a day early and couldn't see the entries. But I did see r Phyllida Barlow's massive installations -- they basically filled the entire central hall of the Tate. http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate...hyllida-barlow

I ate a small salad at the Tate and then headed back to the hotel to relax a bit and get changed for tonight. About 3:30 out I went again . . . In my very posh but appropriately understated outfit. First to the Wyndham' Theatre to collect my ticket for King Charles III for tomorrow night, then to the ROH to collect tonight's ticket . . and then to the Lobby Bar at One Aldwych to meet my friends for cocktails (I once met up w/ NeoPatrick here and it is a very comfortable cocktail bar). We had a nice long visit - they both have high profile jobs and are usually VERY busy so we haven't been able to meet up in maybe 3 or 4 years. about 5:15 we parted ways and I walked over to the ROH for my 5:30 dinner booking.

The ROH seat I booked was just about center stage in the Grand Tier . . . so I thought, 'now we are talking REAL money, why not make a special occasion of it and book dinner in the Balconies restaurant too.' So that's what I did -- VERY posh evening. About a week before I left home I got an e-mail from Balconies w/ the menu and I had to make my selections then. With a 5:30 table and a 7PM curtain . . . they can't fool around waiting for menu decisions.

You get choices of which courses to have before the performance and during the interval. I opted for canapés, wine, Rabbit Casserole, Cocotte Potatoes, and Mixed Leaf Salad pre-performance - - and a Pear Drop (a sort of champagne cocktail) and fresh fruit plate for the interval. The canapés and rabbit casserole were wonderful - but being on the bone the rabbit was a bit messy to eat.

The performance was absolutely wonderful (though I do find subtitles distracting - I have a hard time ignoring them and concentrating on the voices). The set was even more distracting then the subtitles . . . it was very inventive but w/ all the changes/alterations it actually made me dizzy a couple of times. Lucas Meachem was WONDERFUL as Figaro and Serena Malfi was a terrific Rosina. All in all a great production (except for that set)

LOVED my seat too - now I'm spoiled for Coach airline seats AND for seats mere mortals can afford at the ROH .

Back to the hotel and crashing about midnight.

Next: Busy last day in London: Guildhall Gallery/Roman Ampitheatre, Lunch at Madison, Tour of Mansion House, shopping in the Silver Vaults, and Kings Charles III (or maybe not)
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 03:58 PM
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Great report Janis...love that area you stayed in, have had dinner at that Ask, not bad...and have stayed at the Crowne Plaza also...

I liked that you were drinking "half's"....my Dad was always shocked when we returned to the UK and saw women drinking full pints...he could never accept that...lol

Can't wait to hear what you bought at the Silver Vaults...I've collected old English pattern cutlery there bit by bit...including some nice fish knives and forks I used the other night...
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 05:17 PM
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I won't get back to the TR til later tonight (have to concentrate on helping the Giants beat the Cardinals - they are currently down 4-1 )

But I LOVE the silver Vaults Haven't been in maybe 4 years -- first thing I ever bought there was a silver ingot commemorating the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977. London/'77 hallmarks.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 05:48 PM
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Love your report! I was in London for a week at the beginning of September and remember why I love it so much. thanks for sharing your trip.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 06:10 PM
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Still catching up on your trip report. After your last trip can only say that traveling with one's own excellent company is an excellent idea.

Now for my next trip will put the wedding gown exhibition at the V&A and tour of Somerset House on my list of things to do in London. Have to say that give me a good chicken liver pate and. glass of Prosecco, and I'll do just fine. I'm also with you on abandoning the " stinkin' pub crawl" for the champagne bar at Harrods, except I would have bailed out earlier.

Look forward to more.
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 06:37 PM
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JANISJ,

Agree with HISTORYTRAVELER "After your last trip can only say that traveling with one's own excellent company is an excellent idea."

Following along and admiring your adaptability. BTW, how are your ankles now?
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 06:55 PM
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oops - found a couple of autocorrects that mess things up a bit . . .

"It was yet another gorgeous day"

"(though I do find sur titles distracting - I have a hard time ignoring them and concentrating on the voices)."

I'm sure there are others . . .

(The Giants just took the lead 5-4 ! !)

Last edited by Moderator1; Jul 2nd, 2020 at 09:35 PM. Reason: removed broken html
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Old Oct 15th, 2014, 11:36 PM
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Enjoying the report!
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Old Oct 16th, 2014, 08:52 AM
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To clarify a bit - I don't think my sore ankles had anything to do w/ my sprained ankle back in May. That was a long slog but I'd just about fully recovered by mid July (but once in a while would still have twinges). This was different -- the front of both ankles and lower shins just ached like crazy. Both when walking and standing for any length of time. I've never experienced anything like it. I changed shoes thinking a slight adjustment would help but nope. It lasted more than 3 days and I was really worried about all the walking/climbing i'd be doing in Venice. Then poof - just went away ??? weird.

Tuesday Sept 30: Busy last day in London: Guildhall Gallery/Roman Ampitheatre, Lunch at Madison, Tour of Mansion House, shopping in the Silver Vaults, and Kings Charles III (or maybe not)

I have a busy last day planned. After a light breakfast in 'my little flat', first headed to the Guildhall. My main purpose was to see the Roman Amphitheater but there is also a excellent art gallery. The collection runs heavily to Victorian and pre-Raphaelite works but lost of other and some wonderful modern pictures w/ London themes. There is also one of the best 13th entry copies of the Magna Carta. There is a fair amount of the amphitheater left -- mostly foundations and drainage. The arena/seating area is gone, but the 'backstage' is substantially intact. Amazingly it wasn't discovered until 1988. Free admission.

http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/thing...hitheatre.aspx

From there I walked over to One New Change just across from St Paul's. Did some shopping before heading up to the roof for my noon lunch booking at Madison. Went there for the first time in May (thanks to a recommendation from jamikins). Fell absolutely in love w/ the views/roof terrace. One of my favorite viewpoints in London. And in May my lunch was superb. Well - the view is still magnificent, the food, not so much. The menu has been entirely redone and there is little variety. Several fish dishes -- but boring fish (sea bass, etc - no salmon or scallops or shellfish for instance) and several burgers. No lamb, no risottos. no interesting starters. At those prices and views it doesn't strike me as a 'burger place'. Two ladies at the next table were having the same dilemma - one had been before and LOVED the place and was showing it off to her mother and there was nothing on the menu they really wanted. The hostess and manager talked to the three of us and seemed to really be interested in what we had to say. They said the chef had just revamped the menu a few days before and they would take our comments. I ended up having pork belly (which was called 'melting pork') which was very well prepared but not what I really wanted. My wine was comped because of our discussion w/ the manager which I thought was very nice.

I'll still go back -- those are KILLER views and the outside terrace and cocktail bar alone are worth the trip -- but before I book another meal there I'll be sure to check the menu on-line.

http://www.madisonlondon.net

After lunch I walked up to Mansion House for a 2PM tour. (Tuesdays only) I REALLY enjoyed the tour - was more extensive than I expected. There is a posh event on this evening (as I suspect there are most evenings) so the tables were all set w/ the plate and fine china, etc. Many beautiful rooms and some amazing chandeliers.

http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/about...ion-House.aspx

From there I took the tube two stops to Chancery Lane for the Silver Vaults. I was thinking about a silver chocolate pot (something like this maybe http://antiqueshoppefl.com/newimages...chocolate5.jpg )

There were simply too many to choose from -- from moderately priced Edwardian pieces to museum quality REALLY expensive ones. I decide instead of deciding on the spur of the moment, I'll come back again when I can spend an entire afternoon. But I did but a couple of things I swore I wouldn't . . . some silver plated things. One was a really different small, square tea set from the 30's Cunard Line. It is very modern and the teapot is a cube w/ an integral handle and small spout barely interrupting the sleek lines. The creamer and sugar are also cube shaped. It is only plate so wasn't pricey at all.

The teapot sort of looks like this except a bit sleeker, the handle not as prominent, and in silver (use your imagination )

http://luxurylinerrow.com/wp-content...77-150x120.jpg

I also picked up a plated coffeepot that nearly matches a teapot I inherited from my Mom which make a nice set.

After the Silver Vaults I went to Liberty to look at scarves - didn't end up buying one but did explore the designer collections (fell in love w/ a Stella McCartney sweatshirt of all things. Didn't but it. Then I wandered around the furniture galleries - I swear Liberty furniture department is better than most decorative arts museums. There was on craftsman wall unit -- I've never seen anything like it and it was GORGEOUS - wouldn't be out of place in the V&A. At £18,000 I did pass though

I have a ticket to King Charles III which received terrific reviews and I really want to see . . . But I am starting to sag a bit and I'm flying to Venice tomorrow . . . so I went to Trafalgar Square, sat an people watched for a while w/ a drink and decided what to do. Finally decided I really didn't want to sit through a play tonight, and definitely didn't want to go and then leave at the interval. So I walked over to Leicester Sq (it is after 6PM and the queue is pretty short. I announce to one an all I have a 2nd row stalls ticket - does anyone want it . . Free, no charge, honest. No takers! But then one man said he had hesitated because he and his friend wouldn't be able to sit together, and he realized that is crazy - they'd only have to buy one ticket and could meet up at the interval. So they gladly took it w/ profuse thanks and tried to pay me something - I told them to just enjoy the play.

And off I went to my little flat in London to pack . . . I know I ate somewhere that night but for the life of me I can't remember where/what.

Next: easyJet to Venice, loooooong waterbus ride, and wandering around St Mark's Square at night.
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