mbuhrig

Hi, all!

First, thanks to everyone on this board, especially the “trip reporters” and the “regulars” (brotherleelove, travelerjan, heimdall, billbarr, stanbr and the rest). After countless hours between Fodors and my Eyewitness guides, I’ve framed our EuroTrip 2010 to Greece and Turkey for my husband’s birthday, but have some questions on which I’d love your input.

About us…we’re in our mid-30’s interested in ancient sights, good food and wine, boating/fishing/diving and nightlife. We’ve spent countless hours prone on a beach having lived in FL for many years, so our Europe trips are typically more “go” and less “slow”. We want to get a good flavor of the Cyclades so we can pick our favorites to linger on during future trips. We have no budget constraints and plan to depart 5/27/10. We’re between two options, but completely flexible:

Option 1:
5/28: Arrive Athens 10 AM, Day in Athens, Night in Athens (Periscope Hotel)
5/29: Day in Athens, Travel to Santorini (Mystique Hotel)
5/30-6/7: Travel through Cyclades en route to Samos:
(Santorini, Mynokos, Paros or Antiparos or Naxos, Samos)
6/7: Ferry from Samos to Kusadasi to begin Turkey “leg”

Option 2:
5/28: Arrive Athens 10 AM, Day in Athens, Night in Athens (Periscope Hotel)
5/29: Day in Athens, Travel to Milos
5/30-6/7: Travel through Cyclades:
(Milos, Santorini, possibly another island (Paros or Antiparos or Naxos), Mykonos)
6/7: Flight from Mykonos to Izmir

Any thoughts on these options? I also have a few specific questions...

1- Is it necessary to book rooms in advance on the more “touristy” islands for higher end hotels? We’d prefer to island hop so we can go where the wind blows or the locals recommend (we once started in Munich and ended up in Italy following only the recommendations of people we met!). Thus, we don’t want to book the whole trip in advance, though I did find some hotels I’m quite interested in visiting. I’ve ID’d my favorite hotels on each island and planned to contact them once we’ve decided where to go…do we risk ending up without a good hotel given our proposed travel dates? I don’t mind paying more for a room to maintain flexibility.

2- Something about Milos is interesting me (that landscape!), though I think ferry scheduling to/from Milos may be complicated. Is Milos worth the out-of-the-way travel, or are there other islands we should consider? I know we'll be a hostage to scheduling, so we're okay with inter-island transport via ferry, hydrofoil, flying dolphin or air.

3- I always try to learn as much of the “basics” of the local language by listening to language CD’s during my commute, though I’m having a difficult time finding a good one for Greek (lots of online options, not too many CD’s)…any recommendations?

4- We prefer smaller, non-chain, higher end boutique hotels, and if they combine modern design with historic features, all the better (Portrait Suites in Rome, Stary in Krakow and DO&CO in Vienna were heaven for us). Any input on these options:

Santorini: Mystique or Vedema,
Mykonos: Belvedere or Bill & Coo
Naxos: Kavos
Paros: Yria or Astir

Sorry for the rambling post, and thanks again!!!

Heimdall

First of all, I like your choice of islands in the Cyclades. Naxos is the favorite of many on this board, but I find the combination of Paros/Antiparos more interesting. Yria on Paros, I believe, is located in the resort of Parasporos, a few miles south of Parikia, the island capital. Parasporos has a nice beach, and is located very near Pounta, the port for the car ferry to Antiparos. Recommend renting a car if you stay at Yria. Astir is on the other side of the island, in Naoussa.

Apart from the attractions of Paros itself, Antiparos has a very good dive company, operating on the island for many years: http://www.blueisland-divers.gr/. There are several companies doing round-island boat trips, which are lots of fun. They stop at small islets around Antiparos for swims on deserted beaches, and have BBQs complete with wine and ouzo.

For your question about booking rooms in advance for high end hotels: definitely book for Santorini, and for any other hotel you consider a must. You won't have a problem finding a room in late May/early June, though.

travelerjan

I like Heimdall's idea about Paros/anti-Paros... and if you are g oing on to Samos (another favorite of mine), Paros I think is the place to get that overnight ferry.

If instead you decide on Naxos, I would be a bit wary of Kavos. The website talks about Ag. Prokopios beach, but when you look at the location map, Kavos is in the Stelida area ... you cannot walk to Ag. Prokopios beach, and the beach that is within viewing distance from t he Stelida hotels is not a nice beach, not really swimmable. Further, it is near marshy area, and word has it that the mosquitoes can be fierce, especialy in Fall.

If you want a beach distant from Naxos Town, you might look at Medusa ... It is called "resort" but it is really a hotel ... few reviews from USA, because until last year it apparently aimed itself mainly at German/French/other continental guests. Reviews are all good ...
http://www.medusaresort.gr/index.htm

If you'd like something on a bluff above the sea, up from the port a bit, but walkable to Naxos Town, look at Grotta. If you ask for their sea view rooms, gorgeous sunsets, the ocean and sky fill the eye. Unbelievable buffet breakfast. No pool but you say that doesn't matter.

mbuhrig

Thanks, Heimdall and Travelerjan!

Decisions, decisions! Medusa looks like a perfect place for us (as does the view from Grotta), but Blue Island Divers' site is tooo tempting.

I'm thus leaning toward Paros/Antiparos intead of Naxos, though should we visit Mykonos before or after Paros/Antiparos? I've read conflicting information about whether there is a direct Santorini to Mykonos ferry; if so, I assume the itinerary would be Santorini - Mykonos - Paros - Samos???

Thanks again for your help!!!

billbarr

well done mbuhrig. I really like your itineraries and endorse what both travelerjan and Heimdall have advised.

It is good too that you plan to travel through the Cyclades from 30 May onwards. Remember those thousands of Greek students who will be visiting Mykonos during on of the late weekends in May? If you stick to your plan, that annual pilgrimage will not affect you.

I can thoroughly recommend (and have done to many friends over the years!) the BBC's language CD's. The good news is that they ship overseas and I have always felt the quality is very high. They offer packs that include a book and CD or you can order each individually. I hope that this link will work. It should take you straight to all the Greek language learning aids at the BBC shop:

http://tinyurl.com/yd4nwky

(they may also be available at amazon.com)

Now some info about your hotels on Mykonos.

The Belvedere is high-end and in a very, very good location on a slight elevation over Mykonos Town. Walking distance down into town and the harbour front is only about 8 minutes. It is located in my preferred area i.e. the Rochari district.

Some things you need to know. The front of the hotel is quiet as it overlooks the town. Therefore, insist on a room with a full and not side sea view. You may have to pay big bucks for that though. The rear of the hotel looks onto the busy road called Agiou Ioanni which can be noisy. They have built a large wall between that road and the hotel but I have no doubt the noise will still carry. It is therefore important that sea view rooms are requested.

Bill & Coo is a new hotel opposite Megali Ammos beach. The beach itself is OK (but not as good as those on the southern coast of the island) and the walking distance to town is about 10 minutes. The area is fine but again, it is wise to know that the hotel has the road to Ornos between it and the beach. I know little about Bill & Coo apart from 1) its consistently good reviews and 2) its consistently high prices.

Can I suggest another to check out? It is close to the windmills, 4 or 5 minutes to Little Venice and has no traffic noise. Called the Mykonos Theoxenia, it is well worth reading its reviews on Trip Advisor. The link is:

www.mykonostheoxenia.com

I’d make your reservations now and not wait until you arrive on the island. I know that the Belvedere has a season-long waiting list for rooms, and the other two may also have the same. Although you will be there early in the season, I think perhaps it is best to firm up the reservation now.

Regards,

Bill

billbarr

yes mbuhrig, Hellenic Seaways operate the only direct service between Santorini and Mykonos.

I have no doubt the same service will be running again in 2010 but it's still a wee bit too early for timetables and online booking to be available.

Bill

travelerjan

Yes, Santorini to Mykonos to Paros to Samos. A map shows you go slightly "backward" this way, but it looks as if the only trustworthy ferry to Samos leaves from Paros. As Billbarr says, those direct fast-ferries from Santo to Mykonos will show up in the Spring. And who knows??Maybe even a direct ferry from Mykonos! Last time I was in Samos (2006), the ONLY ferry to the Cyclades was to Mykonos! Go figure. All will become clear.

About Greek language ... as billbarr (of Scotland) would say, dinna fash yoursel". Don't make yourself listen to a bunch of CDs ... the grammar is impossible. Aside from marrying a Greek, the best quick way to pick up words you can use is the ONLINE "talk Greek" by BBC: http://www.bbc.co.uk/languages/greek/talk/

It has 10 "gentle" units on words & phrases to use in everyday situations. It gives you the SOUND in Greek, the circumstances for that word or phrase, spelling in Greek letters AND (most important of all -- a PHONETIC Version in Our Alphabet with (vital!) marks on which syllable to accent. The latter is vital, because Greeks always stress the syllable you least expect!! And, each unit has a little box in the corner that says "useful phrases" and when you click that -- you can PRINT it out. Print out the 10 pp, take along .... and throw away all those phrase books.

I struggled for years with bad phrase lists, and this is the first one I like. NOTE: Greeks even in the smallest towns can manage in English... at least the ones under 40... but they are really pleased when you make the effort. Even if you cannot say what you want in greek, just start every query with "Para-kah-LO" (Please), and you'll be well received.

Another handy thing is an illustrated food guide. I have '"issues" with some things on Matt Barrett's website but he does give good illustrations of food http://www.greecefoods.com/

AND he gives a take-along list of how to order food in Greek... again, phonetic, with stress indicated. http://www.greecefoods.com/restaurants/ordering.htm Again, your waiter can understand your English, but when instead of "red wine" you say Krah-SEE KOH-kee-no, he'll be tickled. And when you tell him the food is noh-sti MO tuh to (delicious), he may bring you some raki on the house.

Heimdall

Not much more I can add to what Jan and Bill have already said. Last year there was a car-carrying catamaran, Sea Runner, that did non-stop trips between Santorini and Mykonos. If that is available, consider it. Otherwise, Hellenic Seaways' FlyingCat 4 is the one to take.

Best not to plan on moving from Santorini to Mykonos on a Wednesday. Roughly every other Wednesday is a no-sail day for FlyingCat 4, but we won't know which until their timetables are published, probably early/mid March. If you include Milos in your itinerary, you will have to be flexible by a day or two re connections to Santorini. Again, you will have to wait for timetables to be published. BTW, some of those ferries depart Milos at very odd hours.

All in all, you have picked an excellent time for island hopping. Weather is pleasant, islands are uncrowded, and it's easy to travel without prebooking ferries and hotels. I am happy to find a simple room when getting off the ferry at each island, but you are looking at specific hotels, which is why I suggested prebooking. When I know where I want to stay, but don't wish to prebook, I call the hotel on my cellphone a day or two ahead.

Jan, the ferry to Samos no longer stops at Mykonos because Paros lobbied very hard to get on that route. When Hellenic Seaways announced the change, Paros politicos considered it a major coup.

travelerjan

Ah me Heimdall, when politics enters, logic leaves! I well remember my first trip back to the Cyclades from Samos. The schedule had a super-fast Regular ferry from NEL to Naxos! that took only 3 hours I think. Brand new vessel, it looked to be, huge, gleaming white, escalator up to economy, wide leanback seats, 2x 2, felt like an ocean liner. We were in heaven. Then it totally vanished from the schedule, never to reappear.

mbuhrig

Thanks for all the fantastic advice, as usual! Good point about the emphasis...when I added parakalo to my title I wouldn't have expected the emphasis to be on the "LO" (I would have guessed the "RAK). Lots of learning to do, but I agree with you...it's both respectful and fun to give the language a try.

billbarr - thanks for the link to Theoxenia...the design is just our style and the price far more reasonable than the Belvedere.

Now off to hurry up and wait for the ferry schedules...

billbarr

you are very welcome mbuhrig.

I well remember the hotel just after it was built in the late 60's. It was 'reasonably' sucessful, then it closed for a good few years. Around 2004/5 new owners did an amazing renovation job. I have never lodged there but have visited and the unique design of the place is wonderful.

Bill

HelenG

If Naxos is still a maybe in your plans, I would consider Kavos. We stayed there in 2006 and the beach that you see from the hotel is a beautiful beach and is within a short walking distance. Very swimmable and crystal clear. Kavos is a great little hotel with detached, bungalow style rooms with a kitchenette, sitting area, open bedroom, bath and a small patio. The pool area is very inviting and you can have lunch and/or dinner at their in-house restaurant. The food was phenomenal and would highly recommend it. Wherever you go, you'll have a great time in Greece

Trish

Just a quick note about Mystique in Santorini, it's quite far down over the cliff, so be prepared for a ton of steps. I stayed at Canaves last June which is above it so I had a good view of the hotel. There is no sunset views from the hotel either. I did the your trip backwards last year, flying into Samos and working my way back to Santorini, I took a Hellenic Seaways ferry called the Mykonos that stopped at another port in Samos, Ikaria, Naxos and Mykonos, it was a nice, newer ferry.

pasqualino

Hello,

I'm still trying to figure out my Turkey to Greece connections(Istanbul, Cappadocia, Euphesus, Santorini and Athens.) It looks so easy on the map, but in reality it is NOT. I'm checking airlines, ferries and even overnight buses. Some services are so sporadic, never on the days I need. Not to mention, June schedules are still not out.

Looking at option #2,I'm intrigued. Is there a direct flight from Izmir to Mykonos? Which airline?

billbarr

pasqualino

I'm not aware of any direct flight to Mykonos from Izmir.

Some folks travel from Turkey to Mykonos by sea. The route is:

Ferry from Cesme to Chios 1.5 hours
Ferry from Chios to Mykonos 3 hours

The Cesme to Chios timetable for June is showing as:

Tue-Thu-Sat departs 10:00
Every Day departs 18:00

It's too early for the Chios to Mykonos timetables but in winter-time there is one service, five days a week. Therefore, there's a very good chance there will be more services added for June.

Bill

pasqualino

Thanks, Bill. Presently, my plan is to arrive Izmir on Friday at 13:45. Tour Ephesus on Saturday and take the 1700 ferry to Samos. Sunday morning fly to Athens and then continue on to Santorini. It's far from ideal. I don't know if taking 3 ferries to get to Santorini would be better. I suspect the times won't line up, and it will take 3 days. But, I'll keep checking those ferry schedules.

Heimdall

Hi pasqualino,

From Samos is another 'Nissos' series Hellenic Seaways ferry stopping at Naxos and Paros. Either of those islands has better connections to Santorini, and you may find times that line up. At the moment gtp.gr is showing sailings only into April, arriving at Naxos 5 days/wk at 1025. From there you could catch the Blue Star and be on Santorini by 1530. Expect summer timetables to be released later this spring.

Heimdall

Here is the current timetable: http://www.hellenicseaways.gr/media/...yklow10_en.pdf

As you can see, currently on Sundays Nissos Mykonos departs Samos (Vathi) at 1230, and arrives on Naxos at 1705, Paros at 1815. That would be too late for the Blue Star, but perhaps there will be a later ferry to Santorini from Naxos or Paros. At any rate, you will have to wait until April or May for a better picture of June ferry departures. If you decide to fly, book your flights sooner rather than later.

pasqualino

Thanks. I've been waiting on airfares for summer sales which I've heard so much about - 39euros from Athens to an island and 29 euros from an island to Athens including tax. However, not only have I not seen this sale, prices have skyrocketed over the last few days. There are only top tier priced seats. OUCH. Plus they are showing very limited availability, between 2-4 seats left on all the flights I checked over a 2 week period. This is for both Aegean and Olympic Air. Is this some kind of marketing ploy?

Heimdall

The Saver fares offered by Aegean Airlines certainly are a marketing tool, and a very good one at that! The fact that you've heard so much about them speaks for itself. Obviously they can't fill the airplane with passengers paying only €29, or they would lose money on every flight. When the Saver tickets are gone, you pay the regular fare, either semi-flex or fully flex.