<That is exactly what I need to hear Adelaidean! When did you go, and how long did you stay?>

or2...we were there in early July this year, stayed 3 nights. It is busy, but escaping crowds is possible, the day we took the ferry to Portovenere was gorgeous, the walk to Monterosso was great, and having a glass of wine at a quiet wine tasting bar overlooking the coast was lovely. Am really glad I went.

BTW I loved Verona, stayed 4 nights and would have happily been there longer, although many people are satisfied with a daytrip. I'd recommend Trento as a daytrip from Verona, just an hour by train, a lovely 5 min walk to the most gorgeous piazza, and a great castle. I've got photos on my TR if you're interested.

"Seeing CT is a must"
May be for people from America and China, but certainly not for Europeans!

"It is important that we have a place to swim"
So you may go to a nice beach like Sestri Levante or to the Tuscan Riviera.
If you like to swim in Lakes, you may check Lake Garda too, as you will stay at Verona for a certain time.

neckervd, not for all Americans by any means

Thank you so much for the replies! This board is full of well-informed travelers.

@greg I understand your points. We are in a tough situation because 3 out of 4 have already stayed in VCN, and it's wonderful but $. We will come in jet lagged around 1400 so a day trip is out of the question. We could stay that first night in Venice. I totally agree that evening there is the BEST! I will think on that...

@Neck thanks for the swimming options-as for CT being a must see...it is for us (in particular my mother) so to each their own!

Monterroso=beach

Thanks!

When we stayed at Hotel Porto Roca in Monterosso they had a private section of the beach reserved for their guests which was nice.

It's been 15 years, so my experience of the CT is hardly current, but we stayed in Portovenere and loved it. We took the ferry one day to Monterosso and walked the path to Vernazza. We were both happy that we stayed in Portovenere, which is beautifully sited and has a wonderful ambience of its own.

I really appreciate all the responses!

Portovenere is a nice place, linked to La Spezia railway station by La Spezia city buses.
The 5Terre villages can be reached by boat (every 30 to 120 min according to season and time of day; OW fare up to Vernazza or Monterosso 16 EUR).
OW train (about every 15 min) fare from La Spezia to Monterosso 4 EUR.

We stayed in Vernazza for 3 days... which many told us would be too many, but we were jam packed and enjoyed them all.

We:
- hiked the trails - multiple days, different trails
- went sea kayaking - and went to a secluded cove were we swam
- went on a private boat tour were we stopped and swam and saw all the towns from the water (also with NordEst - they were awesome)
- swam in the cove right in Vernazza multiple times (including stepping on a sea urchin)
- took a day trip to Portofino where we wandered, took a boat trip, and ate.

We have plans to go back, kids are going to get scuba certified before we go so that we can go dive....

oh yeah, forgot we did stand up paddleboards in Monterosso al Mare...


It is more magical to stay in one of the towns... when all the daytrippers leave. Although the marching band in our square at 10pm wasn't so much fun (a local holiday) when we were jet lagged!

My wife and I just returned from the CT. We went last year for three days and returned for seven days this year. Yes the Cinque Terre will be crowded from about 11 am to 5 pm, especially Vernazza. This year we ventured out to surrounding towns during mid day. I believe staying in surrounding towns and going to the CT during the day is a big mistake. Your only memories of the Cinque Terre will be of disneyland like crowds. I'd actually suggest doing it the other way around because the CT towns are at their best in the evening and mornings. We visited Levanto for a day and it was a really charming town with a beautiful beach. We rented bikes and drove through the abandoned railway tunnels of varying lengths with incredible sea views in between the tunnels. It was a wonderful day. Levantos restaurants and shops were also great.
When we got back to Vernazza around 5pm the day trippers were leaving.
We rented an apartment with a balcony that was literally right over the ocean. Literally. A diver jumped off the balcony and into the water on a Rick Steves episode from our balcony. (That apartment is only big enough for one couple though). A great terrace or balcony is a nice refuge from the mid day crowds.
I recommend it strongly.

Vernazza in the morning and evening is magic, but most people who visit Vernazza won't know it.

Well said @celfan, and great ideas @surfmom. You all have helped me decide :)