Three weeks in Turkey, Part 1
 

I can't seem to be able to write short. I hope this isn't too long.

Turkey Sept-Oct 2009
Part 1 of 2

Turkey abounds in Greek and Roman ruins, spectacular buildings of worship, art (frescoes, mosaics, ceramics, excellent craftsmanship - antique jewelry) dating back several centuries, gorgeous natural scenery and warm and welcoming people. Not to mention sesame, olives, cheese, yogurt, pomegranate tea, apple tea, baklava and halva. I wonder why I waited so long to go.

Food: I’m not a foodie. I like simple meals, and fresh fruit and vegetables so loved the eggplant, olives, salads, cheese and pomegranate juice and apple tea. I also indulged in a bit of baklava and discovered a new favorite, halva. Lokum is pretty good too. All hotels that I stayed in had breakfast buffets that served and assortment of fresh fruit -- a good way to start the day.

The weather in late September, early October was perfect for me, cool but warm enough to swim in outdoor pools and in the Med. We had only one day of rain in three weeks, but a few days were a bit misty so I wore a lightweight all-weather jacket a couple of times. I did need a hat for sun protection in the cities along the coast and at Ephesus.

I was with a group tour that began and ended in Istanbul and then I spent three days on my own in a hotel in Sultanahmet.

Istanbul
Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque): Lines to get in but the mosque is so large that once inside there is plenty of room to wander and admire the exquisite Iznik tiles. All the women in our group had scarves and kept them on inside but it was warm. We had to remove our shoes and were given plastic bags in which to carry them. The bag that they gave me was too small for my two shoes so I had to ask for another. Next visit I’ll bring my own bag.

Aya Sofya (The church of holy wisdom): I’d been to St Peter’s Basilica in Rome and knew that it was larger than the older (1400 + years) Aya Sofia, so I wasn’t blown away by the size, but I was by the mosaics. I fell in love with Byzantine art and was amazed at how vibrant the golds and blues still were and at the detail in the crowns and robes of Emperor Constantine and Empress Zoe in the mosaic where they are flanking Christ. One of my favorites depicts the archangel Gabriel – or what is left of it. Ah, the beautiful wing. Our tour leader told us at the Chora Museum that the missing portions of the art wasn’t just from age; people peeled off bits from the mosaics and ate it for luck or kept the bits as a talisman. I heard the same thing at the tombs in Egypt.

The mosaics must have been dazzling hundreds of years ago. Fortunately, when the Ottomans converted the church to a mosque in the 15th C. they had the mosaics covered and not destroyed. Of course now it is a museum displaying not only the structure but Christian and Islamic art. I like the combination of Christian mosaics and the Islamic calligraphy and the beautiful tiles.

Topkapi Palace: It was fun walking the grounds. We saw a bride in formal white with her attendants. We visited the Treasury and saw fabulous jewelry and the Topkapi dagger. The value of the items in that one room is staggering and the workmanship is admirable.

I also remember going through the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle. It was very solemn, but I didn’t realize until later that it is a place of pilgrimage for Muslims. There are many relics but the most sacred is the mantle once worn by the prophet Mohammed. We were not allowed to enter the room but could see a holy man chanting over the gold chest in which the mantle is stored. I did not visit the harem, but will next time. It was a nice day and I spent time wandering and enjoying the water view.

Spice Market: I have to go back. There were so many people and so much to see and I had no idea of prices yet so, other than a “blue eye” key chain, I bought nothing. One woman in the group bought an attractive pillow cover. I intended to buy a couple of kilim pillow covers but by the time I’d returned to Istanbul I kind of lost interest in bargaining in a market. I did buy two nice ikat silk covers in a shop and probably paid more than I needed to but I like them.

Grand Bazaar: It wasn’t much fun. There were too many twisty streets and it was at the end of a long day. And too many men approaching us saying “Would you like to see carpets?” I might go back with someone who has a good sense of direction and/or bring a map and allow lots of time.

Basilica Cistern: I liked it. I like that type of atmosphere, a bit dark and mysterious, classical music, sounds of water, stone Medusa head, etc. I was alone and enjoying it until a large group of Americans (recognized accents) descended, chattering and pulling out their cameras. They have a right to do what they want, but it broke the mood.

Archeological Museum: It is an interesting museum and there were very few people there, the way I enjoy a museum. Our tour leader took us to a few highlights and then to the Alexander Sarcophagus (so named because Alexander’s victory over Persians is depicted). Our leader then set us loose. I went through the entire museum and then walked around the gardens outside. The sarcophagus is worth the visit, but I’ve seen it and don’t feel I need to return.

We went to the Pavilion across from the museum, which held a beautiful blue-tiled mihrab and lovely tiles and ceramics. Then had a good lunch at Hamdi Restaurant

The Kariye Museum (Church of the Holy Savior in Chora), also called the Chora Church, reputedly has the best Byzantine mosaics in the region.

The church was built in the late 11th century, and virtually all of the interior decoration, the mosaics and frescoes (in the paracclesion), date from about 1320. The church served as a mosque (Kariye Camii) for four centuries after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul and is now a museum (Kariye Müzesi) because of its priceless mosaics.

The mosaics are lovely and many show little damage. The museum is small so you don’t feel overwhelmed and can take your time. The mosaics depict the lives of Jesus and Mary, including the ancestry of Jesus.

I think it’s well worth taking a bus or a taxi to see this museum, I think I’ll go again when I return to Istanbul. There is an outdoor cafe across the street and a few shops.

Cannukale (Kolin Hotel)
We crossed the Dardenelles by ferry to Asia Minor and visited the museum and graves at Gallipolli. The graves of the Anzac soldiers are well tended on a site overlooking the sea. There were three or four colorful fishing boats anchored nearby.

I found the letters in the museum especially moving. I saw a letter that I’d read in the novel Birds Without Wings by Louis de Bernieres. Birds were mentioned a few times in the letter, so perhaps this provided the inspiration for the book title.

Troy Although it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, unless you’re a history buff, I wouldn’t go out of the way to visit this site. It is interesting and educational, but there are many more interesting sites in Turkey. Climbing up the stairs in the reproduction of the Trojan horse might be fun for children – and perhaps a few adults.

Basilica of St John
We stopped here before Ephesus. It’s a nice location on a hilltop with a view of the remains of the Temple of Artemis. Although the church was seriously damaged in a 14th C earthquake, you can walk around and see the baptistry pillars, large column fragments and the tomb of St John. There were many flowers in bloom and it was a pleasant, uncrowded site.

From the Ephesus web site: It is believed that the evangelist St. John had spent his last years in the region around Ephesus and was buried in the southern slope of Ayosolug Hill. A small chapel was constructed over the grave in the 4th century. The church of St John was changed into a marvelous basilica during the region of Emperor Justinian (527 -565 AD).

St John or the Apostle John was the writer of the Fourth Gospel and the book of Revelations. The accounts of the Gospels agree that he is the son of Zebedee. John, with his brother James, began to follow Jesus while fishing in the Lake of Galilee and became one of the Christ’s closest disciples and was with him on significant events such as the Transfiguration and the Crucifixion.

According to tradition, John took The Mother Mary and came to Ephesus. He wrote his Gospel in Ephesus and the Revelation in Patmos in 96AD [? He would have been very, very old.]

Ephesus: Of course, was one of the highlights of the trip. The site is so large that it didn’t seem crowded until we reached the Marble Walk and then wow! It was a mob scene (and hot) until we reached the Library of Celsus. The crowd seemed to thin out there and was not bad at the theatre. There is so much history, reading a book or checking the Ephesus web site would be helpful before visiting.

House of the Virgin Mary: Located at Meryemana, five miles from Ephesus. I don’t believe there is definitive proof that Mary actually lived here but the site does draw many visitors. The small stone house is located in a lovely, rustic area. We lined up with other visitors to enter the house. There were a couple of people there to keep the line moving through, so you don’t have an opportunity to linger. But you do have an opportunity to buy religious souvenirs and postcards.

Pammukkale) (Richmond Hotel)
We visited Hierapolos and the travertine terraces and ate lunch in Denizli. A few of us were wandering down a street looking for a pizza restaurant, probably looking lost, when a man who was sitting on a bench with other men, got up and asked if he could help. He took us right to the restaurant door. Throughout the trip, the Turkish people were courteous and helpful. And the pide was good – mushroom and cheese.

I thought the travertine terraces were beautiful. I got into a pool up to my knees and stirred up the crystals at the bottom and enjoyed a wonderful view of the terraces and the valley below. After lunch we returned to the hotel (the Richmond) and I swam in the cool outdoor pool and then went to the hot mineral baths, which felt very good. It was an easy day after Ephesus.

Izmir (Izmir Hilton)
I skipped the optional tour to Pergamum and walked a block or two to the harbor front and walked alongside the water to the Archeological Museum. I didn’t see any signs when I got to the vicinity of museum, so asked an elderly man selling flowers. He didn’t speak English but dropped what he was doing and walked me to the corner and pointed up the street behind me.

Most of the artifacts in the museum are from the Bayrakli Mound (3000-300 BC). It was interesting, and I was glad I saw it and had the long walk, but the best museums were ahead in Antalya and Ankara. I stopped in a park on the way back and bought a simit and drank my water. Our hotel, the Hilton, is the highest in the area, so as I walked back through a winding, bustling market, I looked up occasionally to make sure I was going in the right direction. I came out only one block north of the hotel. The hotel was nice and we all had harbor view rooms.

Next: Antalya, Myra, Konya, Capodoccia and Ankara

Great report so far. I seriously need to go back and fill in the holes of missed places. Thanks for all the details, we visited some of the same spots.

Thanks for finally posting your report Luisah.

I can see that you would have been happier doing all this trip with a friend who shares your interests rather than a larger tour.

but all the places and the people you missed are not going anywhere, and will be around when you come back.

Thanks Michel, I plan to go back too. There is soooo much there.

OC. You have no idea. I have pages and pages on this trip but no one would be interested in reading them. I go off on tangents and have about ten pages about Ataturk.

I enjoyed the group tour and went to places that I probably would not have on my own, so that's a good thing. If I'd been with a friend who shares my interests (hard to find) I'd still be there wandering around. LOL

The tour gave me a good idea of what's there and how to get around And where I want to go when I return.

Thank you both for reading it.

topping for icuy

Thank you Luisah I will be in Kusadasi and Istanbul in August lots if detailed information that will really help me.

Luisah - I love your report and the amount of detail in it. I share your opinions of the spice market and grand bazaar in Istanbul. The vendors in the grand bazaar were always "in your face" to buy and the spice market vendors were laid back and didn't pressure me. I bought a couple of things in the spice market but it was at the end of the trip and I was more familiar with the prices.

I also agree with your opinion on Troy. It was the 7th archeological site I saw and I was underwhelmed by it.

What group did you go with?

I hope you will keep part 2 with this report so everything is together and easy to find.

Than you for the report

I found the vendors at the GB to not be bad at all. They would ask, sometimes humorously to come visit, but a no thank you and that was it. We had a contact to go see about carpets (recommended by a local) and had some nice tea and a whole introduction to silk carpets. Not sure what you meant by twisty streets..is there an outdoor area?

Thanks all. I'm happy that people are reading it.
Adrienne, yes, I'm trying to wrap up Part 2 and will add it here.
Michel, I felt confused in the GB. I was wary of going too far into the bazaar so tried to stay close to the main street where I'd entered. I might have been all right if I'd had a map but it was at the end of a long day and I didn't want to get lost.

The carpet salesmen weren't rude, it's just that we couldn't walk far without being approached by one. When I'm next in Istanbul I may try the GB again earlier in the day and with a map.

Thanks Luisah. I'll be there in Sept and your trip report is going in my Turkey folder.

I'm posting Part 2, but it got so long, there will be a Part 3, which I hope will be the end. I could never work as a reporter. When I write, I keep going back to the beginning and rewrite and rewrite.

Turkey Sept – Oct. Part 2 of 3

From Pammukale to Antalya. We had a nice drive along the Turquoise Coast. As on all drives, we had break stops at places with shopping ops, even if it was just snacks, but often there were Turkish goods for sale: purses of all sizes and colors, olive soap, washcloths and sometimes fruit. I bought a couple of packages of fresh figs somewhere along the line where they were giving samples of figs and assorted flavors of lokum. One stop had a bakery and a few of us bought baklava.

Myra
We stopped to visit the church of St Nicholas, the 4th C Bishop of Myra. The frescoes are faded and the stone floors are worn smooth from the steps of countless worshipers and pilgrims. This small church became one of my favorites. It was quiet. The few people who were there were respectful, and I felt like I was in a holy place, not a tourist site.

Nicolas was arrested, tortured and thrown into prison during the persecution of Christians by the Roman emperor Diocletian. The Christians were released by the emperor Constantine and Nicholas returned to Myra.

St Nicholas’s crypt was in the church in Myra and was a pilgrimage site until the 11th C. when Italian sailors took the bones to Bari, Italy where a church was built over the relics and became a pilgrimage site.

St. Nicholas is the patron saint of bakers, pawnbrokers, sailors, children, Greeks and Russians.

There were a few vendor stalls near the church and I bought a lightweight T-shirt with a large “blue-eye” on the front. When I got on the bus for our excursion to Aspendos a couple of days later, three other people were wearing that shirt. They said they bought them because they were cooler than anything they’d packed. It was warmer and brighter along the coast, so lightweight clothes, sun block and hats were helpful. I use mine as a p.j. top in summer.

A couple of us stopped at an outdoor cafe for a drink and snack and once again, experienced friendly, courteous service.

Lycian tombs: Seeing the Lycian Tombs, some from the 4th C BC, and the theatre was interesting. It must have been quite a feat to carve tombs with intricate decorations in cliffs. I wonder what the cross above some of the tombs represent if they were carved before Christ. I got some good pictures of the mask reliefs and saw similar masks again in the museum in Antalya

Antalya Talya Hotel 3 nights
Oh, how I loved Antalya. I had a room with a balcony overlooking a garden and the sea. The hotel was located a ten to fifteen minute walk from the shopping area by Hadrian’s Gate. The food was good, the breakfast: yogurt and honey, fresh fruit, waffles, omelets made-to-order, meats if you want. But the best feature was the “beach,” a couple of large concrete slabs at the bottom of the cliff reached by taking an elevator down four levels or walking down a lot of stairs. There was a bar and lounge chairs and umbrellas for relaxation and a platform and a ladder to get into the water and swim in the Med. It was a first for me and I certainly enjoyed it. I had been swimming in the outdoor pool, but the sea was warmer and more fun.

Next day we visited the wonderful Archeology Museum. I loved it; my favorites were the Gallery of the Gods and the Roman marble sculptures dating from the 2nd C AD with some coming from nearby Perge. Then we took a walking tour of the city by the harbor area and saw the clock tower and the ramparts and Hadrian’s Gate. I bought fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice and drooled over beautiful pastries in a shop window.

I went back to the hotel for lunch and then walked back to the area around Hadrian’s Gate. This is the only time in the entire trip that I met an obnoxious salesman. I made the mistake of looking in a jewelry shop window and in a flash the salesman appeared at my side. I told him that I wasn’t interested in that type of jewelry (my mistake, I should have just said no, I’m not buying) so he wanted to take me to his sister’s shop and when I said no, I didn’t have time, he had a string of questions even as I was walking away. I walked down the main street and turned left thinking that I could leave by another gate, but that didn’t work, I wound up right back by the jewelry store and he pounced again. When I said again that I didn’t have time to shop, I had to get back to the hotel, he asked me where I was staying. So, this was a lesson for me – Say no and keep moving.

When I was walking down the side street looking for an escape route, I passed a man sitting in a folding chair outside a house. As I passed he yelled out “Where do come from?” I said “the U.S.” and he said “What state?” I said “Florida” and took a few more steps. He said “I’ve been there.
Governor’s Jeb Bush.” I said “Not anymore” and he asked who the current governor was. I said “Crist” and he said “Oh, Charlie Crist.” It always surprises me when I meet people in other countries who know more about us than many Americans. At a home-hosted dinner in Fes in fall 2007 the host compared the presidential election statistics of Egypt and the U.S. A few people asked me if Hillary Clinton could be elected president in 2008.

I did have to get back to the hotel for a lecture by a university professor on politics in Turkey, but stopped at a shop and looked at cotton hats. I don’t remember what I’d brought with me but needed a hat with a wider brim. I tried one on and a young saleswoman appeared and asked if she could help. I tried a few and she told me honestly which looked best and then pulled it down tight on my head and said “That’s normal for you.” When I bought the T-shirt the salesman used the same phrase, so apparently “normal” means the correct size. I bought the hat and the woman asked if I could stay and have tea and I wished that I could. It would have been nice to spend a bit of time talking with her.

The hotel had free internet access so after the lecture I caught up with messages to the family. It was a good day. Tomorrow Aspendos and Perge.

Another feature of the hotel is the Turkish bath and massage services. We’d been offered a free fifteen minute massage, which I accepted the first day. It was excellent and I made an appointment for a full hour massage at the end of the day. Some of our group had the Turkish bath and said it was good too.

We saw another area of Antalya on the way to Aspendos. We passed several beautiful posters of a golden eye. Our leader told us that they were advertising a film festival. I would like to have found one for a souvenir but no luck.

Most of the buildings at Aspendos are from the 2nd and 3rd C. AD. The main attraction is the Roman amphitheatre, which is in remarkably good condition. People were walking in different areas and clapping to test the acoustics. I believe opera and ballet performances are still held there. Constructed during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (mind-boggling to me), it could accommodate up to 12,000 spectators. There are Latin engravings indicating that the theatre was offered to the emperor and the gods. Although I’m not an opera fan, I’d love to hear a musical performance here.

Souvenirs were expensive here. I saw a T-shirt that I’d seen in Antalya, for quite a bit less. This is also the place where I overheard a British woman complaining to the money collector about having to pay to use the rest room. We did have to pay pretty much throughout the trip, usually 50 cents.

After Aspendos we went to Perge. When I read about Perge it sounded interesting. It was a center of Christianity; it was conquered by Alexander the Great and there was a temple to Artemis, who was considered the patroness of the city. But for some reason, my mind seemed to shut down there. I got about half way through and lost interest – maybe I’d reached my "ruins" max.

The massage before dinner was relaxing and dinner was good. There was a wedding in progress when we were heading back to our rooms and several of us stopped to watch. We needed to pack up for our road trip to Cappadocia in the morning, but I left the balcony door open to hear the music from the wedding and I looked down onto the garden occasionally and saw the bride and groom dancing, a nice ending to my stay in Antalya.

It was a pleasant drive through the Taurus Mountains to Konya to visit the Mevlana Museum, which contains the mausoleum of the founder of the Whirling Dervishes, the poet Rumi. Coincidentally, my 2009 calendar was the poetry of Rumi. My favorite: “We have fallen into the place where everything is music.” Rumi’s poems were based on love, not philosophy.

Konya is a holy city and we were there on Sunday so there was quite a crowd on the museum grounds. I saw more women wearing head scarves here than anywhere else.

We needed to cover our shoes and line up to enter the museum. It was crowded, so we couldn’t spend much time admiring the details of Mevlana’s ornate mausoleum, but I remember a lot of sparkling gold. However, I got a good look at a couple of beautiful, large books in Persian script. Rumi was not of the Muslim faith but preached tolerance toward all people and religions.

The grounds are attractive; flowers were in bloom and there was a large fountain with children laughing and playing nearby. I noticed that one young woman in a group of four or five, all in hijab, was wearing Converse high tops.

Later we stopped at a 13th C. caravanserai. I’ve seen photos and read about them but now I have a better idea of the layout. It must have been a welcome respite to long-distance travelers.

I had an apple tea and bought a CD at a shop nearby. I told the cashier that I liked the music that was playing and he recommended "Istanbul 2010" from several CDs on the shelf. I like it very much.

We arrived at the Nevsehir Dedeman Hotel in Cappadocia in late afternoon. When we were waiting for our keys in the lobby, a door burst open and a large of children poured out, all well dressed and looking happy. One by one, as they passed us they sang out “Hello, hello, hello.” We learned they were there for a wedding.

Next: Cappadocia, Ankara and back to Istanbul.

Thank you. I am enjoying your report.

Jackie,
September should be a good time to be in Turkey.

Adrienne,
The tour group company is Grand Circle.

Turkey Sept – Oct Cappadocia, Ankara, Istanbul

I was sorry to be getting to the end of a trip that I loved. I read several trip reports that inspired me and countless posts about Turkey and thank everyone who takes the time to write reports and answer questions. I’m sorry to say that I don’t remember all the names of the trip report writers but I did enjoy reading them and learned something from every report.

I will continue to read reports and posts for two reasons: I enjoy reading about other people’s experience and will be looking for ideas for my return visit to Turkey.

Underground City Tour/Goreme Open Air Museum Visit a Local School Discovery Series Art of Pottery in Asia Minor/Optional Whirling Dervishes

Our three nights in Cappadocia passed in a flash. This area is everything I expected and more; it’s unlike any other place I’ve visited. I’d love to return and just hang out for a few days and talk to people who live there. The caves, the religious art in the tiny cave churches, the tufa formations – all were fascinating. But the highlight for me was the hot air balloon ride over spectacular, surreal scenery.

From the tour info booklet: “The holy grottoes of Cappadocia once housed the largest community of monks in Asia Minor. From here missionaries spread the Christian faith as far as Ethiopia. Some 300 beautifully frescoed churches and dwellings for 30,000 people were carved from the soft volcanic pinnacles between the 4th and 14th centuries. Beneath these fanciful shapes lie even more wonders—underground chambers, even entire villages, some 14 stories deep!

Residents fashioned bedrooms, churches, and storerooms from the rock, connecting it all with an elaborate labyrinth of passageways. You'll see a host of churches carved more than 1,300 years ago, still boasting lovely frescoes. Some of the houses remain occupied today, and some of the ancient storehouses still provide shelter for grapes harvested from local vineyards.”

We saw only one cave that is occupied today and that was from our hot air balloon. There are cave hotels and we visited the terrace of one at sunset (I think OAT uses this one sometimes.) I think staying in one for a couple of days would be fun.

Being claustrophobic and a bit stiff in the joints, I opted out of the tour of the underground city. Our leader told us we would have to stoop to walk through the passages and there was no turning back. I enjoyed the time in a shady outdoor cafe drinking apple tea (50 cents) and listening to four people at the next table converse in Turkish. There are a lot of shhh sounds, like Russian or Gaelic; it’s a pleasant language to hear. Or — maybe they were speaking Russian.

I enjoyed the Goreme Open Air Museum (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Some of the frescoes in the tiny cave churches are primitive and some are quite detailed. There was a good deal of red and blue, probably natural dyes from local plants. Our guide said that artists were hired to paint in some of the cave churches but many were painted by local worshipers.

After going into a few churches we were free to wander in and out of cave homes for a while. Some were quite large and had “built-in” stone furniture, e.g. a dining table. I took a photo of an old wooden door in the side of a cliff and thought it was an interesting photo. I sent to my daughter and asked what she thought of. She answered “The Flintstones.” I had been thinking of something mysterious, like a cave full of treasure or wall art, but now I can’t get the Flintstones out of my mind.

After Goreme we visited an elementary school. These children were among the happiest, most outgoing that I’ve seen. They were at recess when we arrived and ran to meet us shouting “Hello” “Where do you live?” “What’s your name?” Even in the classroom, they were excited to have visitors and talked and sang and danced for us. The teacher was very patient and kind with them. Our visit to a school in Fiji was similar, although the children were younger. However, in Egypt, the poor little kids sat at their desks, not speaking, with their arms folded under the glowering looks of their teacher. A couple of boys got excited when we were leaving and shook hands with a few of us. In Fiji they all hugged us. In Argentina, the kids were controlled to a degree. They were quiet in the classroom but a few of the boys started wrestling and fooling around when we went outside. Someone in the group commented that the Turkish children were the happiest they’d seen.

The next stop was at a pottery atelier. An employee demonstrated how they shape a pot on the wheel and then what it would look like after painting and glazing. The pottery was beautiful and expensive. I bought nothing — too expensive and too fragile for me – too many opportunities for breakage before getting home.

About fifteen of us took the Whirling Dervish optional that evening. It was okay, mildly interesting but seemed overpriced ($30), not something I would do again or recommend.

“See a ritual dance performance by the Whirling Dervishes, monks of the Mevlevi sect of Islam founded in the 13th century. During the dance, called a sema, the dervishes believe that their souls are released from their earthly ties and are free to joyfully commune with the divine. The dervishes spin shoulder to shoulder, both around their own axis and around one another, representing the Earth revolving on its own axis while orbiting the sun. The dancers are silent while performing the sema, accompanied by drums and chanting, as the ritual gradually transforms itself into rapid, spinning ecstasy.”

I think it’s an interesting concept but not too interesting to watch.
.
Next day: Optional Ballooning over moonscapes/Carpets & Kilims, Home hosted lunch. Tufa formations of Pashabag

I’d been undecided about taking the balloon ride and had taken a poll at home. All of my family said to go for it except one grandson, the most adventuresome, said he wasn’t sure that I should do it. He may have been thinking of my fear of high places and wondering how I would react – as I was myself. We had to let our tour leader know two days before the flight and he said that once he made the arrangements we could not cancel without being charged. So, I made the decision to go and didn’t waver despite the jokes (One woman offered to notify my next of kin) and concerned comments from my group mates. (Are you really going to that?) Fourteen of us booked. We had an early wake up call and had to be in the lobby ready to go by 5:45. We were picked up and taken to the Kapadokya Balloons office. Coffee, tea and cookies were served until we were called to board a vehicle and then rode up and down hills in the dark to the balloon launch site. I drank just enough coffee to wake up and ate a couple of cookies. There was space for fourteen in a basket (divided into two sections with a section for the pilot in the center. They brought us into the field where the balloons were being prepared and told us not to cross a line. It was fun to watch many colorful balloons inflate and lift off one by one as the sky began to lighten.

When our turn came, we clambered in awkwardly. I don’t think anyone was graceful but I know I had a hard time getting my leg over the edge and almost fell into the basket. The pilot instructed us on the position to take if we were to have a rough landing.

Lift-off was as smooth as if someone above was gently pulling us into the air. I became so engrossed in the view of the sunrise and the other balloons drifting at different heights that my fear disappeared. I was surprised when a woman from our group said that she’d also been afraid of heights but was enjoying the ride.

We sailed through the sky at various heights and sometimes nearly close enough to the rock formations to reach out and touch the stone. As the sun rose, the colors of some stones, changed from deep rose to light pink and we could see bands of colors in the lower rock formations, as if someone had painted wide stripes onto the rock. Our pilot, a Welshman named Mike, was certainly adept, he brought us from panoramic views of the tufa formations and towns below to low close ups and turned the balloon so neither side would miss interesting views. He was in constant touch with the ground crew, keeping them informed of our height and location.

A TV commercial came to mind: cost: $180, experience: priceless. I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again. When our hour was up we watched as other balloons descended. Flat-bed trucks were driving along beneath us and one balloon slowly landed on the back of one. A friend had said her group had landed on the back of a flat-bed truck and I couldn’t picture it, but there it was. And our turn was next.

A truck found a level spot beneath us and when we were close to the ground three men grabbed the ropes on the side of the basket and “walked” the basket over to the truck bed. We didn’t even feel a thump when we landed. The pilot told us to be careful when we got out of the basket onto the truck bed because there wasn’t much space. I was the last out on our side and the handsome young man who’d helped the others off said to put my arm around his shoulder. Well, I wouldn’t refuse that offer, but was amazed when he lifted me out of the basket and then stepped off the truck and put me down on the grass. What service!

We celebrated with champagne and cake and were awarded certificates. So, a great morning for me, well worth getting up before dawn.

Back to the hotel for a quick clean up and breakfast before boarding the bus at 9:30. Our first stop was a carpet cooperative in Avanos. We saw some women weaving and then went into a large room with seating along two walls and lots and lots of carpets in the center. We were offered a beverage and the few who had developed a taste for raki chose it. I think I had apple tea. Many of the carpets were beautiful and must have cost a lot of dollars since the small kilim I looked at cost $210. The silk carpets were especially beautiful with lovely shades of gold and green and intricate patterns. One of the men from our group looked at a few carpets and said they were good quality. His wife said he works in textiles so I guess he knows.

Home-hosted lunch

We broke into small groups and mine included our tour leader, which was fortunate because the hostess and the friend who was helping her serve spoke no English, so our leader was our translator.

We took our shoes off and left them on the porch/entry before going into the house. We were served a cold yogurt soup, then a hot chicken soup, then white meat chicken and some vegetables and then home-made baklava. I have a feeling the chicken was from the backyard. It was a nice lunch and that was the day that I gave up eating baklava – it was too good and I was becoming too fond of it.

There were photos of the family and of the wedding of the son of the house. The wedding album was interesting – very glamorous shots, no candids. I noticed a few blue eye charms, including one large one hanging over a doorway.

After lunch we drove to a couple of villages that are characteristic of the area, which also included shopping ops. There were plenty of small shops and some refreshment stands offering beer or tea or fruit juice. I bought a blue eye bracelet and a few of the tiny, colorful bowls that I now use to drop my watch or earrings into. There was an array of brightly colored items decorating a leafless tree and I chose a large glass “blue eye” hanging on a braided rope. I wrapped it in bubble wrap and put it in my carryon. I got through security in Ankara, Istanbul and Paris but was stopped in Atlanta. They had to unwrap it, inspect it, put the carryon back through security, wand me, pat me down etc. I got the wand and pat down in CDG too, but it was because I’d forgotten to take my watch off so set off the alarm.

We drove up a hill and went onto the terrace of a cave hotel. It was nearing sunset and we enjoyed a wonderful view, so sunrise from the hot air balloon and sunset from the terrace of a cave hotel – a good day for beauty. The hotel looked interesting but it didn’t look like there was anything within walking distance other than a stand directly across from the hotel advertising Turkish Viagra.

Day 17 Transfer to Ankara/Visit Hittite Lands and Hattusas/Explore the Yazilikaya Open-Air Cult Center Wednesday, October 14

On the way to Ankara we stopped in Hittite land. The Hittite civilization rivaled Egypt’s during the 2nd millennium BC. We first visited the ancient site of Hattusas, capital of the great Hittite Kingdom—a powerful empire of the Ancient Near East that ruled from about 1600 to 1200 BC. “Located high on a rocky summit, Hattusas offers a wealth of archaeological treasures that have been recovered from this former center of the kingdom, including records offering extensive details concerning political and religious aspects of the culture.”

After lunch at a village in Bogazkoy, we continued on to Yazilikaya, a sacred Hittite sanctuary of two chambers enclosed by natural rock formations. Hewn out of the rock are depictions of deities and a stone relief of King Tudhaliya IV that stands twelve feet high. Archaeologists estimate that the Hittites used this locale as a revered shrine as early as 1250 BC. I have no notes on the lunch but remember it was not a buffet and remember giving my dessert, baklava, which I’d quit eating a few days before, to the man sitting across from me and his wife scolding him for eating two desserts.

We walked through an open-air cultural center featuring representations of the Hittite pantheon. The Hittite people revered up to 1,000 gods and goddesses. The major spiritual beings-such as Teshub, the Thunderstorm God, and Hepatu, the Goddess of the Sun are depicted more frequently in sacred sites throughout the region.

I really liked this stop. Imagine driving over hilly, winding roads to visit ancient stone ruins located high on a rocky and desolate summit on an overcast and misty day. This is where the Thunderstorm God was worshipped. It didn’t thunder but it did rain. We stood in a light mist as our leader explained how and when the city wall and the huge stone gate were built. We’d just learned that the location of the gate was to slow down enemy chariots, when it began raining a bit harder and someone said “It’s raining” and bolted. Then we all ran for the bus leaving our leader standing alone on a big boulder looking at us like the wimps we were. At another stop we walked up worn smooth stone stairs and squeezed between two enormous boulders to see the carved images of the Hittite gods.

I think this is where I lost the rubber tip for my trekking pole. It was on the pole before I left for this trip, but not when I returned. I remember the pole sinking into sand between rocks and having to pull hard to get it out.

The Hittites spoke eight languages, had written laws, no capital punishment, but practiced slavery.

Day 18 City Tour/Farewell Dinner Thursday
Ankara is an old city (founded in 2000 BC) with several Roman ruins scattered throughout the metropolis. Archaeologists have found artifacts that date back to pre-Roman periods but it is a big and modern city with art galleries, symphony orchestras, theatres and heavy traffic.

Our first stop was at the Mausoleum of Ataturk, a tribute to the founder of modern Turkey. Ataturk (originally named Mustafa Kemal) helped lead the nation during the collapse of the Ottoman Empire and transformed it into the secular republic that stands today. He was Turkey’s first president and is today its most revered historic leader. Indeed, from banners in Istanbul to statues in smaller cities, we saw Ataturk’s likeness many times. I read quite a bit about Mustafa Kemel before the trip and learned a lot more from our Turkish trip leader, who is a great admirer.

The mausoleum, high over the city, is enormous. Our trip leader said several times that it was not what Ataturk wanted, but that the people wanted to build an impressive memorial to honor him. And it is impressive.

Local artisans created the statues, adornments, and reliefs throughout the complex that combine ancient and modern architectural styles. There is a large colonnaded courtyard, a Hall of Honor with mosaics of gold leaf on the ceiling, floors of colored marble, and a 40-ton sarcophagus. A group of statues near the towered entrance represent the three strengths of a nation—defense, productivity, and education. Construction of the Mausoleum was begun six years after Ataturk’s death and was completed nine years later, in 1953. In that year, with great honors, a gun carriage bore the remains of Ataturk to his final resting place.

Our next stop was another fine museum. From my tour info booklet: “The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is the finest Hittite museum in the country. It details the many cultures that have inhabited this region, starting as far back as the Paleolithic Age. The museum houses a priceless collection of artifacts from Neolithic, Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Persian, Galatian, and Roman times. The two buildings themselves, a caravansary (an overnight site for caravans) and a bedesten (covered bazaar), are Ottoman structures that date to the 15th century.”

My favorites here were on the lower floor: the coins and the delicate gold jewelry. They had some master craftsman working in gold. The gift shop sold reproductions of some items from this area.

I wandered around the gardens outside before we walked up a hill to a market. There were small shops selling textiles, jewelry, tea glasses, string bags and fruit and spice stands and traditional Turkish handicrafts. I saw some metal pendants on cords that looked like the images of the Hittite gods we’d seen carved into the stone walls in Hattusas. One shop had nice dyed silk scarves and one sold beads, which pleased a woman in our group who makes jewelry.

While we there schoolchildren in their uniforms came marching up the hill waving their colorings and chatting to one another. They didn’t pay us much attention so I guess a group of tourists is not an unusual sight for them.

Our farewell dinner was held in a restaurant in an old stone building near the market where we’d been in the afternoon. It was very good, a nice antipasto and then tender beef with assorted vegetables. On the drive back to the hotel our trip leader asked if we’d had a good time. Everyone answered YES! Then he said “Now you know what to say to people when they ask why you went to Turkey.”

Some flew home from Ankara and some of us returned to Istanbul. I had a few more days on my own and loved my cozy room in the Hotel Dersaadet in Sultanahmet. I spent a lot of time on the rooftop terrace, mesmerized by the sunset, boats and ships on the Sea of Marmara. It was fun for me to walk the side streets up to the Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque and walk through the Arasta Bazaar and take another route back. None of the salesmen were high pressure, but most invited me in the shops “to look.” I only went into one and was surrounded by everything kilim: pillow covers, purses, shoes and luggage. It was similar to seeing a sea of turquoise jewelry in the Southwest.

There was a large shop in the neighborhood that had beautiful textiles in the window. After passing it a few times, I went in and inquired about a silk ikat pillow cover. The owner/salesman showed it me and I asked if it had been made in Turkey. He said yes. The silk covers came in several sizes and patterns and he said to take some and sit on the bench and take my time. There were no other customers so he sat across from me and we talked. He was the third generation of his family in the textile business. Without trying to sell me anything, he showed me a couple of rugs and told me how they were made and why one would cost more than another. He was especially proud of the towels – the softest I’d ever felt. I should have asked the price, maybe I could have bought a small one for a special souvenir. It was a pleasant, educational experience. I bought two pillow covers, which I enjoy.

It had been a wonderful trip — I enjoyed every minute. Our trip leader, a young man who was educated in Turkey and the U.S. was excellent. He has a laid-back, can handle anything, personality and a dry sense of humor. I think we were mostly a congenial group.

After being home a few months, images and memories of Istanbul and Cappadocia still surface and I think I really need to return. I’ll be watching the Turkey posts and making notes on different places to visit next time.

Flight home. The hotel made arrangements for a car to the airport. A couple who were taking the same Air France flight to CDG shared so it was not expensive. It was a short ride to the airport and after checking in, the three of us had coffee and I bought some lokum for my family. There were samples and it was very good, although expensive.

Security at CDG was very slow, they were checking almost everyone going through and checking lots of carryons. It didn’t leave me much time to walk around before boarding.

This has never, ever happened to me before. Both flights left on time and the flight to Atlanta arrived early. I got to immigration and there was ONE person ahead of me. I stepped right up and handed over my passport. The unsmiling officer put it into the reader, looked at the screen then holding the passport looked at me and said “Why did you go to Turkey?” I wondered why he asked and stammered a bit and then said “It’s beautiful — to see the historic sites.” He then said. “Could you get alcohol, beer?” I nodded and he stamped my passport and gave it back to me.

Next, the luggage zoomed out. I grabbed my bag and breezed right through customs and went to the Delta counter to check in for my last flight. I had separate tickets and needed to check in and get my suitcase tagged. I’d booked the 8:30 pm flight because if the Paris flight had arrived on schedule, I would not have made the 5:30 flight. I asked if there were any seats left on the 5:30 flight. The Delta clerk checked the computer and said “One, but I’ll have to charge you $50.” I said okay and got rid of my suitcase and got over to the gate. They started boarding about ten minutes later and took off on time. I rode an hour sitting in the last row across from the lav, but it was better than hanging around the airport for three hours.

The end of a happy journey

Luisah, I thoroughly enjoyed your report. We were there for 16 days, just a few weeks after you. Although we didn't go to every place you did, I was able to picture so many of the sights and places you experienced. I agree that it's an incredible country. We, too didn't have a bad experience and also fund the Turkish people to be warm and hospitable.

When we were in Cappadocia I kept saying that I couldn't think of any other place on earth with similar topography. If anyone knows of any, I'd like to hear about them.

Your report convinces me that we have to go back (as though I needed convincing)!

Thanks for the time you took to write it.

Ellen

Thanks Ellen. Cappadocia is haunting, isn't it?

Luisah

Thank you for the detailed report.

Ian

Luckily, I was unable to fit Cappodocia into our schedule during our trip to Turkey in May. Now I have to go back . . . Thanks!