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Three days in Naples
Looking for suggestions as to favourite sights/experiences that I might enjoy. I've read a couple of guides--the Archaeological Museum is about all they agree on. I'm over 60, travelling solo and I will arrive in Naples on May 3 in late afternoon, (hotel in Chiaia district) and will be leaving the next afternoon for a one-week walking tour in the Sorrento area. Then I'll be back in Naples for 2 1/2 days before I fly home (staying in historic centre). I've been in Italy twice before, but never south of Rome.
Likes: art, ruins, gardens, museums, outdoor spaces. Dislikes: "nightlife", crowds (yes, I know it's Italy in May), being rushed around. I'll be seeing Pompeii from Sorrento, so I will want to see the Archaeological Museum... and...Royal Palace? S. Gregorio Armeno or Pio Monte della Misericordia? walk the waterfront or Spaccanapoli? Capodimonte Museum or Capella Sansevero? view from Vomera or ??? |
With an interest in art, I would think you would make the Capodimonte, Capella Sansevero, and Pio Monte della Misericordia among your priorities. You might also want to add Santa Chiara, Quadreria dei Girolamini, and the Duomo. I loved walking through Spaccanapoli, but do be warned -- it is narrow and can be crowded. Worth it though, IMO! And for views, hard to beat those from the Castel Sant'Elmo. :-)
Enjoy! |
>>>Royal Palace<<<
There's also a Royal Palace in Caserta (about an hours train ride). |
Herculaneum, more beautiful, IMHO, than Pompeii and very different.
I also enjoyed a tour of Naples Underground, layers of a city under a city. |
I especially love the Capodimonte. Stunning paintings in there, in very good condition. Otherwise, I love wandering around the historic center. The people watching (and the food/coffee) are fantastic.
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Thanks for the ideas. I had not heard of Girolamini (which apparently has spotty opening hours) but the story of the librarian who looted the library was amazing. The Naples Underground also sounds fascinating. I suspect my problem will be prioritizing... but it usually is!
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If you would like to get off the beaten track and visit ruins, I would suggest a trip to Baiae, Cumae (home of the sybil), the Phlegraean Fields and Lake Avernus (entrance to the underworld). They are difficult to reach -- your best bet would be hiring a taxi for the day -- but it can be done by public transit and walking. You'll pretty much have them to yourself, but they are very much worth the visit.
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Sorry, Sassafrass, if one has been to Pompeii, Herculaneum is a disappointment, so, IMHO, it is not worth the time.
We found Naples to be a fabulous city, in some ways even more interesting than Rome. We walked and walked and discovered the city and landmarks by walking the city day after day. And the pizza. You may not ever be able to order pizza again when you get home. |
I'm with Sassafrass -- Herculaneum is more beautiful than Pompeii. But that doesn't mean that I would choose one over the other -- Pompeii is more illustrative of an actual "work-a-day" city and has surviving elements for which there is no parallel in Herculaneum.
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The OP will be seeing Pompeii from Sorrento. That is why I suggested Herculaneum from Naples.
My husband and I have been to Pompeii three times, twice for a few hours with guides, which was interesting, and once for an entire day on our own, which was absolutely the best. It is really incredible to leisurely read and explore the whole site. Herculaneum, far from being disappointing, is hauntingly beautiful, with enough intact structures to make it easy to visualize residents going about their lives. Given that I am a nut about archeological sites of old cities, it is rare that I am disappointed by one, so keep that in mind when you read my opinions. The day on our own, we spent at least 8 hours in Pompeii. (I said I am a nut. Husband just tags along.) We spent about 3 hours in Herculaneum and it was not enough for me, but the couple we were with were done in about an hour and a half and left. If your interest is minimal, then skip Herculaneum, not worth going for just a quick look-see, IMHO, but if you generally really enjoy archeological sites, you will find Herculaneum interesting and very different from Pompeii. |
Again, I'm with Sassafrass. I spent a bit more than 7 hours at Pompeii and then close to 3 hours at Herculaneum, both on the same day and from Naples. They are different; they are each very well worth seeing, IMO.
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For me, other than the archaeological museum, which is phenomenal, if I had limited time, I guess I would prioritize Capella Sansevero, Pio Monte della Misericordia, Santa Chiara, San Gregoria Armeno, il Duomo, Napoli Sotteranea, Capodimonte.
Check opening hours and a map and you can probably squeeze in what you want in 2 1/2 days. Time it right. Don't forget to eat sfogliatelle. I much prefer ricce but some like frolle. Have a wonderful time in crazy, chaotic, intensely interesting Naples. |
I loved both, Pompeii and Herculaneum.
I have not been to Naples yet, but this is my plan: <b>Day 1</b> Train to Naples; Check In, Lunch M. Archeologico (9:00-7:30, closed Tue) <i>If there is time/energy: stroll Lungomare, Palazzo Real / Castel de Uovo</i> <b>Day 2</b> Rick Steve's Walk: (Need to start early! Most churches close 1:00-4:00) Piazza Gesú Nuovo Chiesa Gesú Nuovo Chiesa e Chiostro di Santa Chiara (7:30-1:00 / 4:30-8:00) Chiesa San Domenico Maggiore (hours not posted) Cappella Sansevero (9:30 - 6:30) - freemason / sculpture: veiled christ, disinganno/ arterial system 'sculpture' Chiesa e Chiosgro Gregorio Armeno (9:00-1:00) Via San Gregorio Armeno - traditional shops / nativity sets Pio Monte de la Misericordia (9:00 - 2:00) - Caravaggio masterpiece The Seven Acts of Mercy <i>If there is time/energy: Porta Capuana Chiesa di San Giovanni a Carbonara (hours not posted) Chiesa di Sta M Donnaregina Vecchia (hours not posted) Duomo (8:30 - 1:30 / 2:30 - 7:30) Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro ( 9:00 - 5:00) Chiesa de San Lorenzo Maggiore including excavations (9:30 - 5:30)</i> <b>Day 3</b> Catacomba S. Genaro (Sun 10:00 - 1:00) Cimitero della Fontalle (10:00-5:00) Museu Capodimonte (8:30 - 7:30) Certosa di San Martino (funciular Vomero) (8:30 - 7:30) Castel St Elmo |
Another big yes to Cappella Sansevero, and the Veiled Christ sculpture.
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Naples is a treasure trove. In addition to all of the excellent suggestions above, I'd add a contemporary one, the Toledo Metro station.
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Wow, thanks for more interesting ideas. (should I really be thankful for learning about a new kind of pastry that sounds delicious???). I have looked at Herculaneum information, but I'm torn: Would I rather see more of Naples than a second set of Roman ruins? Or if I take time from Naples, should I use it for a trip to Capri?
I think that decision won't be final until I've actually seen Pompeii. Although I loved the ruins at Ephesus-- a major highlight for me. But some of those Naples churches sound fascinating, and I also loved the variety of churches and their art, in Venice. Ancient ruins, a grotto, or Renaissance masterpieces??? Well, it's certainly a wonderful problem to have! |
Yes, you will have to prioritize! No clear choices, just difficult ones.
Good luck! |
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