Thoughts on St Denis Basilica?
 

Hi
A friend of mine recently returned from a 2nd trip to Paris, and she raved about her visit to the St Denis basilica, which among other things, is the repository of the remains of many French monarchs.
In many trips to Paris I haven't been there (thought about it once or twice, but got busy with other things) and I was wondering if Fodorites had any comments.
I understand the basilica is just steps from the metro stop, not an attractive neighborhood, but still well worth the visit.

elaine,Saint Denis is one of my favourite's basilica in Paris.
As a matter of fact, everyone in my family agrees with me, from my DH, to my 13 years old grandaughter.
We are going back to Paris this June and Brooke my grandaughter wants to
visit Saint Denis again..
The basilica is off the tourists path, the neighborhood is blue collar type but interesting.

Like Elaine, I have not seen St Denis in my many visits to Paris. For the past 2 trips it has been on the list but, because we never get to the bottom of the list and St Denis is out of the way, we have missed it. Next time for sure!

I found nothing wrong with the neighborhood at all. The tourist office is 1/2 block from, and in front of, the basilica. There are shops, tabacs, etc along the street and a small town square. It's just a working class area, not high-falutin' boutiques or anything.
The basilica is very interesting. There is a representation of the headless St Denis on the left exterior.
This article gives a good description:
http://www.letsgo.com/PAR/03-Sights-594

Just go and stop obsessing. There is only a moderate amount of rape and pillaging of tourists in the area. Far more interesting than either St. Sulpice or the Pantheon. Just get on Metro line 13.

did I mention obsessing, raping, or pillaging?

I never thought the Pantheon or St Sulpice all that interesting, so would take that as damning with faint praise.
but thanks all

St. Denis is worth visiting for a couple reasons. One is that it is the first gothic church. Another is that some of the royal tombs (e.g., Henry II) contain side-by-side sculptures of the king/queen in temporal splendour and post morten decay. I thought the latter were called something like grisaintes, but since I can't find this word or variants on Google, I must have it wrong. This kind of tomb sculpture flourished for only a short time.

I really enjoyed my visit there and thought it very interested -- mainly for the funerary sculpture (probably some of the best in France) and history. I liked the Pantheon, however, but this is better than that (I don't find St Sulpice of that much interest, though). There are other reasons as it was the first prime example of the stained glass art due to the influence of Suger, which predated Notre Dame and Chartres. Historically, it is a very important site, which I think is the reason people visit many things on their trips. Unfortunately, some of the stained glass windows aren't there anymore, but some are.

I wouldn't say the neighborhood was unattractive -- there really isn't anything to be attractive or not, exactly, as it's mainly an edifice with grounds as a detination itself, and it's right near the metro stop so there's no need to go through neighborhoods. It is right next to the tourist office, which is convenient. I don't think of Notre Dame as exactly being in a neighborhood, either.

Here's an article on the importance of Suger with some of the window examples:
http://vrcoll.fa.pitt.edu/medart/ima...hcWindows.html

thanks for the link

Suger has always interested me in an indirect way, becaus of his contemporaneity with Pierre Abelard, so I'm always happy to learn more about him.

elaine, I would certainly never, ever direct any comment on Paris to you. As long as I've been visiting this board, I've seen your posts that you have a file on Paris. What possible contribution could I make to someone so knowledgeable?

elaine, I was there twice. Once in November 2004 when it had the "Basilique secrete: Tresors archeoligiques de Saint-Denis" exhibit (Oct 22 2004 to March 6 2005).

The second time was in late March 2006, and I was please to find the exhibition was extended. It was included with the Museum Pass.

My only complaint (a minor one) was that in March, the temperatue in the basilica was quite cold, and we found ourselves gravitating to the space heaters. Otherwise, we found St. Denis well worth the time.

Woody

thanks, it's back on my to-do list, and pretty close to the top.

Elaine, it's been on my to-do list for the past 2 trips. Last trip I piggybacked it on my itinerary with Montmartre but somehow I managed to spend all day in Montmartre instead!

I am really hoping to get there next trip.

I thought I had read somewhere, though, that the remains were no longer there, just the crypts that had held them? Am I wrong? Regardless, it would still be fascinating to see.

In addition to Christina'a excellent web page mentioned above, which has photos of some of the windows, I found these

Also http://ah.phpwebhosting.com/a/OUTofB...tdenis/tc.html

Some of the monarchs buried (re-buried, actually) in the crypt: http://www.findagrave.com/php/famous...teryid=1974848

http://66.1911encyclopedia.org/S/ST/ST_DENIS.htm encyclopedia entry (and it uses the word 'pillage' :) )

photo of the building: http://encarta.msn.com/media_4615353..._St_Denis.html

As the first Gothic church (choir built by Abbott Suger before 1140), and thus the beginning of a darn successful trend, it is well worth the visit. On its own, it is a beautiful building and free of the Notre Dame crowds. Standing in the choir is an experience not to be missed. Also, it is on the Metro (end of the line, but still on the Metro).

Yes, Elaine, go! The other Fodorites are right on! Easy access on the Metro line and a short walk to the basilica. I teach the children's book A Proud Taste for Scarlet and Miniver by E.L. Konigsburg to my seventh graders, a story of Eleanor of Acquitaine. Abbot Suger is one of the narrators, and you'll get a fast, fun background on the man behind St. Denis. The book also mentions an art piece which you can see in the Louvre. If you have any interest in the history of the monarchs, it is the place to go. I liken it to the Westminster Abbey of Paris. Have a great time.

The last time we visited the basilica someone had laid a single red rose on the tomb of Marie Antoinette. Very moving. The church is fascinating for many reasons and a definite Do Not Miss. The neighborhood gets a bit seedy away from the immediate area of the church, but you won't need to go there.

I have been there three times. I just loved it. I also found many fabric shops in the area. There is also a large dept. store in the pedestrain area. Also there is a great cheese shop that was pretty inexpensive compared to the inner Paris area. Do not go on the RER there it requires more money, take the Metro. I found it to be a nice working class area and the people were friendly.

If you visit the National Gallery in Washington, be sure to see Abbot Suger's cup: http://www.nga.gov/collection/galler...al-1443.0.html. It's a great treasure.

Re: St. Denis Basilica. Am writing a play about Eleazar Williams, a claimant to be THE DAUPHIN. I am told that the heart of Louis XVII is at St. Denis and that DNA from it does NOT compare with DNA of E. Williams (of New York State) Can anyone enlighten me IF his heart is there?