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There and back again: A first time trip report of London and Spain

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There and back again: A first time trip report of London and Spain

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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 02:32 PM
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There and back again: A first time trip report of London and Spain

Here we go. We flew from San Francisco to LHR July 2nd. The flight was descent but way longer then I care for. I couldn't sleep or even watch a movie as I was so excited. Ended up watching the map most of the way. Finally under way with my wife(DF) and 15 year old son(DS) and armed with as much foreknowledge as a foderite could gather for our first trip abroad.

We arrived in London at 11:00 AM on my Birthday and as expected were pretty wiped out. Thankfully our travel agent had arranged a car or it would have been Tube to the South Kensington station. Safely delivered to the Pelham Hotel, one of the Firmdale properties, we were very delighted with our accomadations. The room was large enough for all of us and DS had a folding bed nicely made and comfy according to DS. We had a nice view of the street and were in a corner so no noise from other guests. There was a quite rumble of the building from the Tube below but it was not a bother at all. The hotel is a row of former townhouses converted to one larger building. We were given tea on arrival and there was a bottle of champaign on ice in the room with a nice Birthday wish from the Manager.

We had reservations at a french restaurant, Racine's, which was a short walk from the hotel. Dinner was special. Entres, main courses and dessert. To start with I had a guinea hen/ fois gras turrine and DS/DW shared a crab and salmon roe toast. For the Main I had a wonderful scallop and diced tomato with a delicious sauce of I don't know what. (menu was in french so we were all in the dark as to what we ordered) My wife had Halibit with julienne of cucumber and long beans and DS had filet of palaice. For dessert we had the cheese course, petite pot au chocolate and coffee. It turned out to be our most expensive meal of the trip and we ate pretty well throughout. All told with one glass of wine between us it was 133GBP. My wife nearly fainted and I had to promise that not all our meals would cost so much.

After dinner we had a nice walk back to the hotel. We got a picture of DS in front of the Kazakhstan Embassy as he is a big Borat fan.

We walked up to Hide park which was beautiful but we learned our first lesson of London... don't forget the brolly at any time! We did have quite a bit of rain while there and locals complained it was the wettest July in fifteen years.

We finally CRASHED at about 9:00PM in our comfortable beds.

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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 03:00 PM
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You're off to a good start! I'm looking forward to the rest of your report.

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 05:21 PM
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Day 2:

Went to withdraw from the ATM only to find out all my efforts with the bank were for naught. I am unable to withdraw from my account. DW's card also not working, my credit card not working at the hotel. Thank god my wife got an extra card from the bank and it WORKS! We are able to use one ATM out of three and one CC out of three that we brought. Everything that I did with the bank prior to leaving didn't work and everything DW did with the bank was successful. What does that tell me? Dunno.

So off to the tube station with a pocket full of pounds to pick up oyster cards and 7 day travel cards loaded into them. Waited in line for an agent and described what we were planning and he agreed the 7 day travel cards were best. Then he gave us the wonderful news that DS did not need an oyster but rather we could get one day travel tickets for 1GBP if we presented our oyster with the seven day travel card loaded. All told we got two oyster with travel card for 23.50 each plus single day ticket for DS at 1.00. We just picked up DS's ticket each day from the same agent accross the street for the rest of our time in London.

So we hop on the bus, the number 42 I think, which heads up Brompton road towards Picadilly circus. Getting a good view from the upper deck of all the shopping that was going on. My god there is a lot of shopping going on!

Hop off the bus at Picadilly Circus, just like I envisioned it, the Times Square of London or the Picadilly Circus of NY. Stop in at Lilliewhites a really big sporting goods store. Only have XL sizes of soccer, er, football jerseys. Am told by one that would know this was the size of all the footie fans in these parts.

Continued our walk in directions we have no idea, amid stepping to the side trying to read the map from the hotel. Very good tourist map at that, we got from the concierge at the hotel. We end up at the bottom of St. James's Park. Down the street comes a horse guard and what do you know it is the changing of the guard. We strolled up through the park to Buckingham Palace, which was packed with viewers and all the pomp and circumstance these Americans could stand. No really it was quite impressive and the security measures were amazing. We were pretty much slacked jawed at this point so we pushed on for more.

We jogged over to Whitehall and turn the corner to be staring at Big Ben, I mean the tower that holds Big Ben and Parlement, not the band but the building. There were parades of protesters of something or another and encampments of protesters in what was much like peoples park in Berkeley. I loved that part.

We stopped at an Italian deli on Whitehall for really good sandwiches and "crisps", 18.00 GBP, we tip small change. Still don't have a hold of the tipping thing but I suspect we were generous. Sorry Londoners, we don't mean to spoil the wait staff.

Pushing on further we head up Whitehall to Trafalger Square. It was a mess with Tour de France get up and we didn't really get a feel for the place. Stopped in at a souvenir shop and made the obligatory purchases of all things London.

Head back down Whitehall and head over to the Churchill Museum and the Cabinet War rooms. Even my wife was impressed with this. I could still smell the cigerette smoke or so I thought, when viewing these rooms. Just a little less sparten then a submarine I imagine.

By this time our feet are killing us and we make a beeline for the tube. The Tube is FANTASTIC. We never had any delays. We traveled mainly on the district line which is near the surface and most times found a seat.

We made it back to the hotel, cleaned up a bit and went to dinner at a sushi joint with the boats that put all the good stuff right in front of you. We spent about 50 GBP but were quite full afterwords. Went to bed only to wake at 2:00AM with more jetlag effects, so we watched some really strange telly.

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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 05:37 PM
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Sounds wonderful so far..anxiously waiting for the part about Spain!

Thanks for sharing,

Angela
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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 05:43 PM
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Hang in there with me Angy, I feel this is going to take awhile. The memories keep flooding back. I am glad I decided to take the time and write this report.

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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 09:36 PM
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Day 3:

To the Tower. Tube to Tower station ouut of the station and staring at the ancient remaining section of Roman wall of Londinium. Have to stop and stare for awhile as this was the beginnings of London so very long ago. Hard for an American to comprehend that this is even older then Chichen itza. Probably the oldest structure I have ever seen.

No stopping there. I used the 2for1 coupons for the Tower and in we go. The Beefeaters were quite amusing but we beat feet it straight for the jewel room. WOW. Again a never befor sight. Diamonds that could choke a horse. And beautiful gold and silver work abound.Truelly a collection to be proud of. Pick jaw up off of floor and move on. The rest of the tower tour was filled of stories my mother had told me and I found I knew more then I thought as I led my family around.

Enough of the majesty of the tower. We walk over the Tower Bridge, the first of about four bridges we walked this day. We walked along the south bank in search of the Burough market and something to eat. After asking a few people for directions and walking through a traffic tunnel which my family did not appreciate, we finally come upon the market. I had been looking forward to this as I like to eat. Not able to make up my mind I decide to have a bacon buttie and have my first experience with brown sauce, which I am told is the customery way it is served. The bacon is much better here then at home. DF and DS find some sort of steak sandwich as they are a little less adventurous.

Stumble upon Neal's Yard Dairy for some great cheese tasting but refrain from buying as we had a long way on foot to go. Amazed by the stinkyness of the place and tried one cheese titled Stinky Monk. Quite good and I am becoming a stinkier the better sort.

We walk to the London bridge pier and take a water taxi to Westminster bridge which was a good break for our already tired feet. Walk over the bridge to the London Eye and take a trip, fifteen minute wait and off we go on a spectacular ride with the best view of the week from a hieght. We walk back over the bridge and tube back to the hotel, get cleaned up, go out to eat at a pizza place near the hotel before we head back to the Globe theatre.

Take the tube back to blackfrier station. We walk over the bridge with the sight of the power plant that is now the Tate Modern, which we didn't get to squeeze into this trip, pitty. Again the concierge came through with great front row center seats for Loves Labours Lost which was quite bawdy and I am glad my son was not any younger and could laugh with us about the funny story. At the intermission I was able to "beach comb" along the Thames as it was fairly low tide. After the show we walked back over the Millenium Bridge, our forth of the day. Feet throb, drag ourselves back to the hotel and die.

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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 09:39 PM
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Oh, the view of St paul's Cathedral at night walking over the bridge was unforgettable.

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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Great report so far. Thanks for posting.
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 10:02 AM
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Day 4:

With jet lag finally wearing off but still being an early riser, I decide to take a walk without the family so they can sleep in a bit. I wander around Chelsea and find Kings road and a small cafe called Picasso which serves a good looking English breakfast for about 6.00. I went back to the hotel to collect the family and took them back to Picasso's. Eggs, real bacon, blood sausage, toast, juice and coffee. Very good food and value. The coffee is much better then back home every where I have been so far.

This morning we went to the science museum at DS's request and then to the V and A which are both about 2 blocks from the hotel. Love the free entry but feel compelled to leave a donation as they are both wonderful museums. The Italian glass chandelier in the atrium of the V and A is stunning. I think I have new wallpaper for my computer!

Back to the hotel to pick up tickets for the much anticipated cricket match at Lord's and to have a mini GTG with none other then Fodorite Audere est Facere. We tubed to Baker street to find the Globe pub which was staring us in the face as we emerge from the underground. Now I start to realize how deep the underground can be! After a short wait over a beer for DW and soft drinks for DS and myself, Audere comes ambling up. My wife says he could be my brother. We chat for awhile and exchange some small gifts. I brought him an official Major League Baseball and he had brought a book on the history of SOCCER in the US, some marmite (which I have yet to try and am told to use sparingly)and a tin of spotted dick which gets the expected laugh. Time to head back to the tube for St. Johns Wood.

We walk from the tube station to do the Abby Road Beatles thing and wonder how cool it would be to work at the Apple recording studio. Walk the zebra striped crosswalk for the obligatory picture. Continue on to Lord's which is situated right in the middle of a residential neighborhood that Audere explains grew up right around it. In we went for a tour round the place, it is big and old. Lots of egg and baccy ties and white clothes shuffling around. Some high faluten drinking going on in the clubs on the ground. We make it to the Edrich Stand by the nursery where the players are warming up. We tour the provisions court where you can find some really good looking "ballpark" food and drink. There is even a champaign stand! We grab some chips and drinks and head for our seats.

The stands are still pretty empty but we get a good look at the field and stands. We have one seat in the row in front of the other three but sit in one row as the seats are all empty. Not long after a couple of suits roll up and inform my son that he is in their seat. I reposition DS in his proper seat in front of us but the gentlemen insist that we will have to move as this is a season ticket holders section. I recheck my tickets and inform him that in fact these were our seats to his amazement and explained that the concierge of our hotel had accquired these for us. He was very immpressed with our concierages ability to procure such good seats which put a big smile on my face. They turned out being alot of fun to sit with and were chatty the entire game. Everyone were happy to see some Yanks at the game and were quite eager to show how much better the game of cricket was then baseball. Audere was invaluable in explaining this game to the novice that I was. I learned the true meaning of "bowling a maiden over", being stumped (I lost the wager that I made but had great excitment in the process), and much of the colorful language that discribes the game. At the intermission we had some cornish pasties with mash and gravy which was very tasty. The home team lost with 2 bowls remaining after Bopal (sp?) hit a six for Middlesex. After the game we marched with the masses back to the tube and said our goodbyes to Audere and thanking him for the great time we had. Back to the hotel and slept like babies.

thereyet
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 01:55 PM
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LoL <i> &quot;Ended up watching the map most of the way&quot; </i>

That's excitement for you!

I love Borough Market. Neal's Yard has a stand where they make the most delicious toasted cheese sandwiches! Oooh, the sourdough bread! How I wish I could have one now!!

I'm enjoying reading your report, thereyet -- brings back very nice memories.

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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:14 PM
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Great report thereyet! Been looking forward to it

(one VERY minor kvetch - that amazing chandelier at the V&amp;A isn't Italian. It is by Dale Chihuly who was born, bred and is still based in Washing State)
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:15 PM
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oops - not Washing - make that Washington State
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:30 PM
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Day 5:

Saturday morning and really looking forward to the Portabello Market. I can't get enough of looking at antiques and am told by Fordorites this is the place to go on a Saturday morning. Also told to get there early as the crowds are thick. Good advice. I thought I might have to go alone but my wife gladly agreed and we left DS to sleep in.

We didn't get there until 9:00 and I was worried we were not on the ball. Everything was ok though and the crowd was very manageable. An unbelievable number of stalls both inside and outside at the top end of the road. Specialists in every item and era imaginable. We saw more spoons, jewelry, objects d'art, china, etc... I collect turtles figures and saw some really great examples including a 19th century signed bronze from Japan that sadly they were asking 455.00 GBP. WAAAAY over budget. They were willing to hagel but still couldn't justify the expense for an item that fit in the palm of my hand. I will dream about the one that got away though.

I did find a small plastic cartoon like figurine playing poker holding a straight flush of hearts for 1.00 GBP. My wife found a silver heart pendent for the small amount of 7.00 GBP. After coffee and a croissant we headed back to the tube and hotel. The mob of people comming to the market filled the street as we felt like salmon swimming up stream and we were glad that we had our fill.

Back at the hotel, we pick up DS and head out for the British Museum, another much anticipated stop along the tourist route. We tube to Russell Square and walk to the Museum. Very impressive domed court. More impressive collection of ancient civilization. Really loved the Egyptian collection but was blown away by the Assyrian Lion hunt reliefs. So well preserved and you could really get a feel for what life was like back then. Couldn't help but get the feeling there was some boasting going on in the reliefs though. Certainly the lions would have won a battle or two.
I was less impressed with the Elgin Marbles though, as they weren't so well well preserved. Time has a way with things left to the elements. The family is tired of the museum and hungry so we head off for North Sea Fish and Chips. We all got the cod and sure enough it comes in a cone of butcher paper. Some mushy peas, lemon and tarter and down to the park we go. Really good F and C for about 25.00 GBP for three with sodas.

We then walk to covent gardens and some shopping. DW found a great skin care store and DS found Soccer Scene for all his Premiership needs. Great year end sale, so DS scored with jerseys and posters of his favorite stars. Feet are really killing us now and getting a bit cranky after finding out the Covent Garden station is closed due to Tour de France shinnanigans. So continue walking to Leicester Square station. At the hotel we take a much needed NAP.

For dinner we stay in the neighborhood and go to the Gourmet Burger Kitchen which is quite good. Sleep real well for tomorrow is our last day in London and look forward to Harrods food halls, shopping, and some last minute photo ops in the City Center.

thereyet
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:36 PM
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&lt;&lt;(one VERY minor kvetch - that amazing chandelier at the V&amp;A isn't Italian. It is by Dale Chihuly who was born, bred and is still based in Washing State)&gt;&gt;

Oooops, well it looked Italian. I should have known the artist because I watched a PBS show on him way back when and I recognized his work immediatly. Just couldn't remember anything else about him.

Glad you all are enjoying the report. My wife is thinking I am crazy for doing it. Just trying to pay back all the kindness everyone here has shown me.

thereyet
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:40 PM
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I'm enjoying your report, thanks for posting. Sounds like you got around quite a bit.

And I can well imagine that cricket is made much more interesting by the color commentary of Audere. I actually imagine that watching grass grow would be entertaining if he described it in whatever language that is that he speaks.
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:42 PM
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thereyet: By any chance, was that great skin care shop in Covent Garden called LUSH? If so, there are two branches in SF, one on Powelll just south of Union Sq. (don't you live in the Bay area? )
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:55 PM
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Sorry Janisj, it was SPACE.NK.apothecary. The link is www.spacenk.com

thereyet
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:56 PM
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So far, my favorite part is DS standing in front of the Kazakhstan Embassy. Way to go little ty!!

Seriously, I totally identify with so much here, ty. Not so much London, where I haven't been in over 10 years, but with the bone-tiredness, the magic, the serendipity, just...I don't know...the feeling of finally being in a place that you've long imagined!
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:59 PM
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&gt;&gt;After a short wait over a beer for DW and soft drinks for DS and myself, Audere comes ambling up. My wife says he could be my brother.&lt;&lt;

You mean there are two of you walking around? Now that's scary!

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 02:59 PM
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I know what you mean, Lucie. It's like every corner you turn another sight you always imagined!

thereyet
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