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There and back again: A first time trip report of London and Spain

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There and back again: A first time trip report of London and Spain

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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 03:05 PM
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Lee Ann, his lexicon of colorful language blows mine away, so I can't say we are truelly two of a kind. You are safe.

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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 03:18 PM
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Im enjoying reading this! Great that you had such an wonderful time 'over here'
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 03:29 PM
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Great trip report! Really enjoying your very colorful descriptive language!

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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 03:31 PM
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Day 6:

Last day in London, feeling really tired and don't want to get going too quickly.

Finally snap out of it and jump on the bus alone because my family has no desire to go to Speakers Corner and all the political stuff I love. When I get there at about 9:30 the place is dead... is free speach dead too I wonder?! So I sit on a curb wondering and wondering as I watch small tourist groups tentitivly wander up wondering the same thing as me I imagine.

After what seems like an hour, A man in muslim dress with stool in hand wanders up and I figure here we go. Another man with folding stool in hand sets up nearby and the two argue over the close proximity to each other and settle on a debate. We pick the popic and keep time. Not long into it the topic comes to terrorism and the war in Iraq. Very spirited discussion that this listener found the Imam to be losing. The two finally split up and by now there are several "soap boxes" going and the whole scene is quite amuzing. A note to any that want to go here, Sunday morning means more like noon before things get heated up.

Head back to the family as I feel a little guilty at indulging in a favorite past time. We then grab a bus to Harrods to see the decadence of it all and are not dissappointed. DW looked at tea cups but choked at the 115.00 GBP price tag. And that was on sale! Did buy sandwiches and crisps to eat outside which again was very good. Bought some other culinary treats to take home including some of the hottest English Mustard I ever tasted. Bought some desserts and chocolates to take to a park for later.

Bussed our way over to Westminster Abby and Parlement for the last minute photo ops and I ran accross the street to "Peoples Park" to eat the creme brule I had been carrying around. Funny thing my family didn't following as there are no cross walks to this square and they were in no mood to play frogger with the traffic. They found a shady bench to wait for me who was more then willing to play frogger as I grew up in Chicago and that is what we did there.

We finally stray back to the hotel for the last time to pack and get ready for Spain. We have 0445 wake-up call so please let us fall asleep fast.

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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 03:51 PM
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Some last notes about the London portion of the trip.

It is a myth that the food isn't good there. I didn't have a single bad meal or snack and I was looking for the off the wall stuff. Didn't try the kababs though. Didn't have an English tea other then what the hotel provided. DS and DW did not like the Indian we had but I don't think they would have liked it at home either.

There is no way to see it all so don't hurt yourself trying. I feel we just scratched the surface. It is easy to see why others return over and over again. I could see myself doing that as well. When traveling as a family there are different interest among us so a lot of give and take has to occur.

The cost of things is only expensive from a yanks perspective because our dollar sucks and that is not the fault of Great Britain so tough for us.

I never saw so many Ferraris and Lamborghinis in one place!

I absolutely loved this portion of the trip and to my surprise my wife is pretty happy she took the plunge into European travel as well.

thereyet
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 10:42 PM
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Still enjoying your report and looking forward to the Spain portion!

Also envious that you got to meet audere!

Keep up the great report!


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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 11:03 PM
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Oh good, here is your trip report thereyet! It is midnight so I will read it tomorrow evening while enjoying a glass of wine. I was hoping that you would tell us about your trip..welcome home!!!
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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 02:51 AM
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Thereyet certainly gets a tip of the tifer for going to a cricket game. And dragging his trouble n strife and bin-lid along.

Talk about off the beaten track.

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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 03:05 AM
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<<dragging his trouble n strife and bin-lid along.>>

Audere, wierd thing is...I actually get what you mean!

btw, they really did have a good time too.

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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 09:31 AM
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Day 7:

Eaaaaarlyyyy wakeup at 0445 to get picked up by Just Airports for the trip to Stansted Airport. The driver is in a hurry because he has another London fare at 0600. Funny how he knows all the places he must slow down or risk some ticket in the mail I imagine. We enjoy the thrill ride though and the driver was talkative. One of the pluses of cabs and hired cars versus buses or trains. These drivers are great sources of info.

We arrive safely at Stansted to find the cattle call that is Easyjet. Of course we are in line with a huge group of young people going to the Fiesta de San Fermin and a big family that seems to be having alot of problems checking in. Patients thereyet, patients... la lala la la la la. Definitely different rules leaving the UK at security with ONE carryon, so we stuff everything we carried on to comply with the rules. On to the hot plane and off to Spain with delay as has been the case for every flight.

Really bumpy landing as I expect we have a rookie pilot but safe and sound on the ground in the land of TAPAS or pinxtos as they are known in the Basque region, Bilboa to be exact.

We are renting a car from Avis and everything is in order as I should repeatedly give props to our travel agent who took good care of us. We end up with a free upgrade to a Saab sedan for whatever reason. I am now very grateful for my Spanish speaking wife because the fact that I don't speak the language beyond pleasantries is just sinking in! With rental agency map in hand we head off to the car.

Manual trani, need to reach back in time for my driving skills. Figuring out the differences of a European car. Think I am ready to negotiate the roads, immediatly kill the engine for the first of many times this day. I told my family to quit it when they reached 7 in counting the times I killed the engine. I can laugh about it now, it wasn't so funny at the time, cars honking at me and all.

We want to go into Bilboa for the Guggenheim museum. As we head into the complete opposite direction we realize the maps we were provided leave something to be desired. Suffice it to say this was the first of many times we were "lost" the entire time we drove. We also discovered after finding we had missed a turn or headed in the wrong direction, it was not an easy task to make corrections. In fact we got to know many places far better then anticipated trying to figure where the hell we were.

Kinda stressing out at this point we finally stumble acsross the city center and then we try to find PARKING, quite another adventure. Realizing parking is generally underground, we grab the first garage we can find which by no means was the closest to our destination. Happy to be out of the car and on our feet again, at least we were on the right side of the river, we walk along the river park towards the museum. What a sight it is. This building attracts you like moths to a fire. We stop for drinks and tapas to snack in what could best be described as a park like setting outside the museum.

We take in the museum, of which the building itself is the greatest work of art. The collection is eclectic, some of which was understandable others not so much. I think there was a culture problem for me at times. There was a fantastic and large exhibit of Albrecht Durer engravings late 15th to early 16th centuries that kept my attention for most of the time spent in the museum. Feet tired and a long walk back to the car and an hour and a half drive to Hondarribia ahead, we drag ourselves out of the building.

we finally find the autopista and are heading in the right direction, I think. After several expensive tolls we find the Irun/Hondarribia area we are staying in. Several wrong turns later we find the signs for the Parador de Hondarribia. Up the narrow streets we go and there is the 11th century castle we seek. Beautiful! Ontop of a hill it affords glorius views of what we have come to appreciate, a small fishing village and harbor.

The place is jaw dropping inside. We manage to get checked in by the very friendly and somewhat English speaking staff , although they prefer speaking in Spanish to my wife which is just fine with me. We find our room which somewhat sadly doesn't have the waterfront view but rather of the internal court which is stunning as well. Not to worry, there is a great patio for the guests that does have the glorious view of the water we were looking forward to.

We take a much needed nap and are happy to slip into the custom of siestas and late dinners. Things are much slower here then in London and the change is welcomed by us. We dined at the Sabastian resteraunt across the street and had very tasting steak/frit. The cost of dinning was considerably less then London as well but that is not a complaint of London just a welcome realization that we won't have to skimp as much.

Sleep comes easy in our very comfortable and spacious room.

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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 11:34 AM
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Sigh...this makes me want to go back to Spain. Last time I was there, Franco was in power...seriously. One of the main things I remember is how incredibly physically beautiful & kind Spaniards are.

I can't wait to hear more, ty.

My husband has never been. Maybe that should/could be our next trip.

Like audere, I admire your ability to travel with the brood in tow. We took out son with us on all our trips, and it was all terrific, no problemos -- until puberty hit. Eeeyi-yi, he <i>so</i> did not want to be with his once-wonderful, now-awful parents.
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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 04:48 PM
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Lucie, highly recommend your husband going to Spain...with you of course.

Little ty is not such a pain in the arse as some fifteen year olds I have come across. Not that there aren't the occassional moments I wish I could trade him for a Ferrari or some such thing. The feeling is mutual of course.

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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 06:25 PM
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Day 8:

We are now in the land of breakfast included. A very nice buffet awaits our later waking hour. Very fresh small fried eggs, plenty of good bread, rolls, and pastries, fresh fruit, assorted Ibericos and cheeses, tortillas of course and even champaign for the wife. And lest I forget, really good coffee. All with the obligatory International Herald Tribune. After a very slow start to the day, I have a feeling we aren't going to get much done today, we head out to do the essential task of laundry. We manage to get lost two or three times trying to find the laundramat which is no more then 3km away in Irun. Once there I am perfectly happy to look at the pictures in some gossip rag while doing the laundry. This leaves DW/DS time to wander around and shop or window shop at least. I seem to run out of coins while they are gone and panic as my ATM card is still inopperable even after we spent about 75GBP in phone calls trying to sort things out. My card worked exactly once the whole trip! Luckly I find a 5 Euro note in my wallet and can go back with completly dry clothing. Nice to have clean clothes again.

Siesta comes early today as we have already accostomed ourselves to the new pace of things. We are hungry when we wake up at 4:00 so we stroll down the hill to the fisherman's village where there are loads of pinxtos bars to choose from. We find Gran Sol, which I had read about in Maribel's Guide, and man what a spread! The bartender was completely welcomming and invited us to pick out whatever we wanted on the bar. We settled on some elaborate items with smoked salmon, mushrooms, anchovies, crab salad, little Iberico sandwiches, olives, fried artichokes and other things I wasn't even formilier with. I was the only one that would eat those items we couldn't tell what they were. All were excellent. House wine for DW and agua con gas for me and DS.

We stroll back up the hill and come across what seemed like a hidden tiny square near the Parador with a couple of bar/cafes. We settle down for espressos and whatch the scene. What we found ourselves watching was a highlight of our stay as five young boys with a soccer ball entertained us to no end. Lets just say it was Dennis the Menice meets the Little Rascals and leave it at that. Well ok, I won't leave you hanging like that. It involved mooning the bar, trying to pee on each other and flipping the bird to the mom hanging out the window above the square and yelling at them. We later dubbed it Dennis Square and always had to take a peek as we passed through the rest of the week.

Around 9:30 we head back down the hill and dine at Yola Berri, also mentioned in Maribel's guide. I had the local specialty Merluza, DW had the evening special of salmon, dessert, and a bottle of wine (all for 14 euro) and DS had manilla clams. I don't think we spent more then 55 euro.

Completely satisfied with the day we head back, now 11:30, and sleep very well.

thereyet

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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 07:06 PM
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I just found your report and am enjoying it immensely.

We went to Racine's last summer one night when we were looking for a casual dinner, since it was described as a 'casual French bistro'. We were dressed in shorts. Casual it was not! But, it was expensive!
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Old Jul 21st, 2007, 07:13 PM
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TG2, I'm sorry you got that desciption of Racine's. It must have felt awkward. Very delicious food though. Glad you are enjoying the report.

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Old Jul 22nd, 2007, 01:09 PM
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Day 9:

A note about the weather, it has been somewhat rainy since we arrived in Spain. Before we went to sleep, DW and DS asked what we would do tommorow. I told them if it was sunny we would go to San Sabastian and if it were still rainy we would go to Franzia.

Well to Franzia we go, weather not cooperating for the beach. We head North or what my internal compass tells me is North at any rate. Still left with poor road maps the usual &quot;are we going the right way&quot; sets in. When the signage turns to french I figure I at least got the North part right but now we can't understand the signs. Stop at the first gas station and buy a GOOD map. This helps a little and we do find our way to St. Jean de Luz. Grab the first parking spot and get the heck out of the car.

This is a very nice small old part of town with fishing/pleasure craft port and narrow streets with lots of cafes and shopping, and a great beach. The water looks cold and there aren't many people in the water. There is a nice promenade along the waterfront though. We do get into St. Vincents during an organ recital which was great. I can picture some serious prayer going on here for all the fisherman who go out to sea everyday.

We take a turn through the plaza which is dominated by street artists with good talent. I get caught up watching them paint and have to restrain myself from pulling out my credit card, which now works by the way.

In the distance across the harbor by the sea wall there is an interesting looking fort that we want to drive over to. We make to the sea wall and climb around for awhile getting some great photos after which we settle in at a cafe on the water. Ds and I order what turns out to be a nicely cooked ground beef patty with frit and DW has a salad with tuna.

We climb back into the car and decide to drive back along the coast, which reminds me alot of Big Sur at home. Hard to get lost with the water on one right. We come to the next beach town and as the rain returns we see a flood of disappointed looking beach goers running away from the shores.

Back to the Parador for siesta, then back to Gran Sol for more pinxtos. This was the only place during our trip that we visited twice, we loved it. This time we found there menu of specialty pinxtos which included some more luxurious ingredients like oysters and fois gras. Each tiny dish like a piece of art. We were filled after this visit but managed to stop by the gelateria with the crowd out front. Awsome. Glad I didn't find it sooner. Very nice stroll back to the top of the hill and bed.

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Old Jul 22nd, 2007, 07:33 PM
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What a charming and interesting trip report thereyet!

I love your manner of writing, one feels as though they are there with you and your family.

And spending time with audere, what a treat that must have been. I am worried a bit about me though as I did understand what he meant when he referred to your trouble n strife and bin-lid!

Thereyet, I wanted to share something with you. I was given a beautiful book five years ago. The title is
&quot;Historical Paradors&quot;.. A Journey Through Spanish Hotels. I pulled it out after reading your trip report and the very first section is regarding Hondarribia. The history along with beautiful photos. And the Parador de Hondarribia is highlighted, again with wonderful photos. You might want to purchase this book..I would think it would be a wonderful treasure for you and your family. The ISBN is 3-8290-2233-6

I look forward to your next installment. Thank you so much for sharing your trip with us. I still think the first trip to Europe is the most magical of all!
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Old Jul 22nd, 2007, 08:52 PM
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Hi LoveItaly, thanks for sharing the info on the book. I have been to Europe before but it was a looooong time ago as a child. We sent our trouble and strife to Spain last summer with school as well, so it was just DW's first time and I think she was very impressed.

I guess the title of my TR does give that impression. What I meant was it is my first attempt at a trip report.

Glad you are enjoying the report,

thereyet

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Old Jul 22nd, 2007, 10:07 PM
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Hi thereyet, I enjoyed it very much..I sincerely did and I look forward to reading more.

I was amazed that the book I had not only profiled the Parador that you stayed in but that the photos were so beautiful. If nothing else I hope you could see if your library has this book.

Traveling with a teen is fun (well most of the time). A memory your son will have forever I am sure.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2007, 08:28 PM
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Day 10:

Last full day in the Basque Region. The sun is out so to the Pearl of Spain we go. San Sabastian or Denostia as it is known in the Basque language. The weather has finally cooperated and we are back in the car heading south. The usual discomfort behind the wheel sets in immediatly when we near the city, which is larger then I anticipate. Luckily the traffic flows right to the heart of town and we find underground parking as soon as possible.

We quickely find the tourist info office and they are very kind to offer all the info we ask for. Not far from the office is the &quot;old&quot; part of town which is of great interest to me. Dominated by two beautiful old churches which are open for a peak and are stunning inside. The streets are narrow and full of tapas bars which attract me and my hunger. The bar tops are loaded with great food and eager bartenders to plate what we want. I do avoid the eals not so much that I was chicken but rather my wife wouldn't have kissed me again that day if I had eaten them. There was a little chickeness in me though. I really was looking for squid in their ink but none was to be found this day.

We head back towards the Cathedral down a busy Boulevard because a friend had asked me to try and find some theological writings in Spanish. I can't find the exact book but I pick up what i think will suffice. We also stop by the post office for some stamps for all the postcards I keep telling myself I need to send.

With the tasks done for the day, I finally promise DW/DS we will go to the beach. Not my personal favorite thing to do but I tell myself it's not all about me. They are happy to sunbath will I walk the long crescent that is the waterfront of San Sabastian. My son is most keen to the fact that this is a European beach with all that implies as far as the fairer sex is concerned. Needless to say, I think he had the time of his life.

When I finished the my solo stroll, I don't think they were very pleased that I had had enough. I burn like a matchlight brickett and needed to get out of the sun. We ended up sitting in the plazza for a while before finally heading back to the car and making the drive back to Hondarribia for the last time. Of course that meant driving through town in direction not known before we at last saw the signs that sent us back in the right direction.

That night we dined at Hermandad for more merluza, Sopa de pescado, and what was essentially fish and chips for DS. The restraunt is set up with common tables and we had great company with a couple from Brussels. The conversation was a highlight for me in this small town.

Off to bed for tomorrow we leave via Pamplona, the Fiesta de San Fermin, and Zaragoza.

thereyet
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