Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - The Wildflower Riot -Sicily Trip Report

Ahhh, Sicily. Just returned from two weeks in Sicily...mid to late April. Great trip. Weather was almost perfect (Usually in low 70's. Sometimes it felt very tropical), wildflowers everywhere and this time of year was not the peak time. Our accomodations and food were terrific.

Transportation:
Flew into Rome. Took Air One to Palermo. Catania to Rome for trip home. Rental car from Auto Europe. Best price $415 for two weeks! If you are going to explore the island, you need a car! However, driving in Italy is not for the faint of heart. Traffic signs and lights are only a suggestion, not the rule.

Many times cars did not use stop signs nor observe double lines on the road. They will pass on curves and blow through stop signs. You must be aggresive and do not give an inch. Luckily, my DF is an excellent driver and loved driving in Sicily. He drove like a native and we did not have a problem except when we rented a motor scooter on Lipari. (Dog ran out into the street and we almost collided) Interestingly, few people use their horns. It is organized chaos with everyone eventually getting their turn. Cars come within inches of yours but we didn't see any accidents.

Itinerary:
Palermo-3 nights
Marsala-3 nights
Agrigento-1 night
Ortygia- 3 nights
Taormina-4 nights

Palermo

We were there for Easter and Easter Monday. Shops and a lot of restaurants were closed. We walked the city and hit the highlights. Took the city tour bus to get an overview. I am an amatuer photopragher to I like to find the food markets for great pictures. We hit upon a few that I loved. Interesting food, goods and people! The people we met were friendly and generous. A few offered us free food and water because I took their picture. Never felt threatened in the city.

We stopped in Monreale to visit the Cathedral. WOW. Do not miss. My words cannot do it justice...just go.

Accomodations:
Palermo-Principe di Villa Franca (Thanks bobthenavigator) Located in a residential neighborhood with lots of good restaurants. Easy walking to the main attractions. We like to walk rather than take taxis or buses.
E190/night. Room was adequate. Looked out onto the street with no noise. Bathroom was good size. Staff was a bit cool and not very helpful.

Food:

Found two great restaurants close to the hotel that I want to recommend:

Trattoria Biondo
Via Giosue Carducci, 15
Excellent pastas and fresh fish. Let the owner order for you...you won't regret it. There is a pizzeria around the corner make sure you don't go there.

Comparucci Pizzeria
Corner of Messina and Nicola Garzilli
Best pizza of the trip. Had a chicken salad that was excellent. Outside seating and very popular.

Marsala

Choose this location because of the proximity to Trapani, Egadi Islands, Erice, Segesta. Erice and Favignana Island were my favorites. We took the long way to Erice to take advantage of the view of Capo S Vito and we were rewarded. Took a hyrdofoil to Favignana and rented bikes. Fun way to see it. Lots of quarrys no longer in use. You can see where all the building materials came from.

Took a ride from Trapani to a small town called Salemi. It was so small there were no restaurants only a pizzeria. The road from Tripani to Salemi was outstanding. Rolling farm land and wildflowers for miles. Seas of yellow and red as far as the eye could see. It was by far the best eye candy I've seen a while.

Hit Segesta and Selinunte. Both were fascinating. At Segesta we walked up to the Greek theatre and ruins. There is a bus for 1.50E that will take you up to the Greek theatre if you don't want to walk.

At Selinunte we used their electric carts 5E to get around since it was further to get from one temple to the other.

The salt marshes at Trapani were interesting. Small museum but all info in Italian.

Accomodations:

Resort Baglio Oneto www.framonhotels.it
This was a real find. I found this hotel through my trip research. It is part of the Framon Group that owns a bunch of hotels in Italy including the Grand Hotel Timeo in Taormina. E159/night.

Our room was huge and the largest of all the Sicilian hotels. Besides a king bed there was a large sitting area with a couch and two chairs. We had a view of the water. The bathroom was a good size. The Staff was very helpful and accomodating with good service.

The hotel has a restaurant were we ate twice. Again lots of fresh fish and the best cassata I had on the whole trip. Breakfasts were the best here too.

Agrigento

Scaffolding all around the Greek temples. Could walk around Temple of Hercules but not the others. We got there just as they opened and had some of the sites to ourselves. As we walked further into the archelogical park, the crowds started appearing. Get there early or late. The park closes at 10PM.

Accomodations:

Colleverde Hotel E170/night. I reserved this hotel because of the view of the temples. I was disappointed in that I had a pinhole view. The room and bathroom were adequate. The grounds were nice and lush with foliage. Staff very helpful.

If you really want a view of the temples then I would recommend staying at the Villa Athenea which is in the park.

Siracusa
What should have taken two hours to arrive ended up to be 5 hours. We had our GPS with us but for some reason it took the real long route. Nonetheless we saw more beautiful farm land. In this area there were miles of stones fences. It must have taken decades to build them because they just went on and on. Within these fences were just green grass. A few heads of cattle but nothing else. We did stop at Caltagirone to see the mosaic steps.

We loved Ortygia. Lots of action at night and plenty of restaurants. Many are open late which is when we like to eat dinner. We walked among the winding streets, exploring and found it delighful. There is a large market everyday near the water. Of course I spent hours there taking my pictures. We usually do a laundry half way through our trip. This time we asked he laundry owner for a few restaurant recommendations which turned to out be great and not so great. We visited the Greek Theatre and Ear of Dioniysius. The wonderment of the theatre was mared by the construction of a stage for an upcoming festival.

We took day trips to Ragusa, Noto and Modica. All had scaffolding on their major buildings. But the architecture could still be appreciated on the other buildings.

Accomodations:

Grand Hotel Ortigia E245/night. We were supposed to have a view room but you sure had to strain your neck to see it. Location was good nonetheless. Provided free parking which you need if you have a car.

Food:

For two straight nights we ate at do Scogghiu
Via Domenico Scina, 11
Siracusa

Run by a family offering fresh fish. I think we ate all the spada (swordfish) in Sicily. Usually swordfish in an American restaurant is thick and tough. Here they give you a thin slice that is not overcooked drizzled with olive oil and parsley. Sicily is lucky they still have a few swordfish left!

The pastas were just as good. I had an outstanding mista salad with greens, tomatoes and fresh oranges with italian spices. Oh my god, my mouth is drooling as I write this. Our two dinners here included antipasta, pasta, secondi, dessert and wine came to E50. They do not serve pizza. Lots of locals eat here. Closed on Mondays.

Our last night we decided to go to a Slowfood restaurant-Da Mariano that was also recommended by the laundry owner and the front desk of our hotel.

Da Mariano was packed but we got a table after a short wait. Once we sat down we waited, and waited and waited. We did get an antipasta we didn't order and a half liter of wine and bread. After that it just fell apart. We like to dine leisurely but when they give you dessert before you order your meal, you know you are in big trouble.

By this time I had lost my appetite but my DF wanted to eat. He orders a pasta which was horrible and spada. Just for his food the bill comes to E40. For what we got and the attitude of the owner, I felt ripped off. In retrospect, we should have opened our mouths before it got out of hand. Live and learn!

Taormina

At the laundry in Ortygia we spoke with an Australian woman who told us of a ricotta festival in Vizinni On the way to Taormina we decided to check it out. Way cool. This town was jam packed with locals. It was also a holiday so the roads were backed up for miles and parking was at a premium.

We got there just in time to see the parade of horses colorfully costumed and bands playing.

They had booths set up for vendors who offered cheeses, breads and other italian fast foods. Had a delicious arrancini filled with peas and ricotta.

We arrived in Taormina just in time to get a view of Mt Etna. After that it was clouded in until we left to go home. Taormina was crowded but fun. At night it settled down.

We explored the town taking in the Greek Theatre. Again, workers were setting up a stage and it was filled with tour groups. We walked up to Castelmola which was a good strenous hike. Beautiful views of Taormina from the path.

Took the cable car up to Mt Etna and walked a few miles towards the crater. We decided to turn back just as the clouds were coming in. Make sure you go in the morning because the clouds come in the afternoon.

On the way back to Taormina, we decided to check out a town called Randazzo. What a find. This is a small medival town that was so pleasant. We wondered around the streets, checked out the Duomo and a few other churches. Loved the old buildings where you can see they half way covered up door ways and windows.

One day we took a slow boat to Lipari one way and the hydrofoil back. Parked our car at a garage in Milazzo. Rented a motor scooter and rode all over the island. Got caught in a rain storm so we had to cut that part short. Before the rain we hiked up to the castella and wondered around the port.

Accomodations:

Villa Fabiano Hotel is located 5-7 minute walk up to Taormina's main street. E215/night. Room was comfortable with a view of the sea. Had a sitting area with a couch. Bathroom shower was small. Breakfast on the rooftop with some unusual selections. The best croissants! Staff was helpful. They offer parking at E10/night. Our car was always ready when we asked for it.

Food:

Licchesi. I don't have the address. Nice garden eating area. Service was superb. The best spaghetti with clams for the whole trip. Fish was fresh and flavorful. Dinner came to E100 with a bottle of wine, 2 antipastas, pasta, secondi. Picked up a canoli on the way back to the hotel that was to die for.

The other restaurants were OK. Nothing to recommend.

Our last night we spent in Rome at the Hilton airport hotel. We took a cab into the city and got caught in a rain storm. We were drenched but hey, it's Rome.

Sicily is unique. The interior is beautiful, somewhat similar to Tuscany. Sicily's hill towns are different, most seem to appear newer. Lots of abadoned homes and buildings. Men just hanging around, wonder if any of them work. I think only the young and old men do, the middle aged ones just hang out at the bars. However, the people are friendly and generous.

Fish venodors selling their product on the street and you know it just came off the boat when it still moves. You must eat their fish and they create the most fresh dishes from ingredients that got that day at the market. And not a bad glass of wine either.

Beautiful scents as you drive through the country especially the orange blossoms. Lots of orange orchards near Siracusa. The coastline towns have dramatic views that make you sigh.

Gail