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The long awaited trip report! Part 4 - Italy

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The long awaited trip report! Part 4 - Italy

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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 12:58 PM
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so here is what I have found :

The most southern town and the first place in our journey is Riomaggiore. After leaving the station, we're heading right into a long tunnel, which is taking us to the center (see more about the town on the relevant page: "Riomaggiore"). Next we're heading to the entrance to the "Via dell'Amore" and we need to go back to the station through the same tunnel. Entrance to the trail is to the left of the station. You must buy a Cinque Terre Card to enter. Enjoying the beautiful scenery, we're quickly getting to the second village - Manarola. After walking a bit around the city and seafront we're going further. We would recommend you to take the train because the paths now are not as short as they were before and you wouldn't have enough time to visit all in one day. Next stop is Corniglia. There is a bus near the station that brings you to the center of the town (the cost is included in the Cinque Terre Card you have purchased previously). We would recommend you to return to the station by foot, following the signs. And then take the train. One more stop in little Vernazza. After a short walk we head into the last town of Monterosso, which station is located almost on the beach in a new area of the town. The old district is located approximately 600 meters from the train station (turn left at the exit from it). That's it. You've visited five wonderful villages of Cinque Terre and the "Via dell'Amore". - See more at: http://cinqueterre.a-turist.com/cinq...p#.UewIcimwrIU

and then there is this way which I think is the option I am going to take:

You can drive from Lucca to the town of Levanto(about 1 hr). This is the next town North of the Cinque Terre Villages. It's easier access off the autostrada to Levanto versus driving into La Spezia which is a larger city and the parking in LaSpezia is mostly paid street parking. There is plenty of inexpensive parking at the Levanto train station in a large parking lot. From here, you are 5 min to the first village(Monterosso) of the Cinque Terre via train. In Monterosso, you can catch a ferry then see the villages from the sea or continue seeing the other villages via train or walking.


AT the Levanto train station, you can buy your park and train passes for the Cinque Terre. Check their website for the latest prices for a 24 hour pass for Cinque Terre. I just heard that the train is not included in the pass now, but don't know that for sure. Anyway, the prices are quite reasonable for sightseeing overall.

thoughts???
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 02:18 PM
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I was there in May. We stayed a week in Riomaggiore and the Via del amore was closed by landslides. You could not walk from Rio to Manarola or onto corniglia and vernazza. Unless they have reopened you can only walk from vernazza to monterosso. You could drive to Portovenere and do a ferry trip that goes past all the cinque terre and stops as well.
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 02:28 PM
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Thanks Jen!
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 02:48 PM
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I think you/family would really enjoy the boat ride. I took many pictures giving me a whole different perspective than the ones I took while hiking. I'd get off in Riomaggiore and have a look around. It's fabulous, very hilly and very Italian!! La Lanterna, the restaurant near where you dock (white building above the coloured boats)was fabulous! Best seafood I had on my trip 8 years' ago.
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 03:06 PM
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Following along
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 04:51 PM
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Me too...Following.

For my Sept./Oct. journey, I just switched 3 nights from San Gimignano to Sienna. You have me scared. I don't do hills...
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 05:08 PM
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Do you ever sleep?
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 10:18 PM
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Hahaha ... I do sleep! However the music concert.didnt finish till 1am! And was incredibly loud

Bag lady where did you start the ferry ride from? I can't seem to find any info on this ... I hope from monterosso.

We LOVE seafood!!! So w ill hopefully go there for lunch!

Oaktown ... Siena and Lucca are similar and I really love Lucca ... It's all flat and there is heaps to see.

See what the others say but Siena gave me a workout yesterday and even got my hyper little 4yrold into meltdown mood that night ... But in saying that it is a gorgeous town that I am glad I have seen
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Old Jul 21st, 2013, 11:26 PM
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Ok plan of attack ... Drive to portovenere ...catch ferry to see all the lands then get off at riomaggioro for lunch and a wander at la lanterna and then back on boat to go to monterosso to then hike to varenazza or visa versa and then have a quick paddle and come home.

Fingers cross this works out
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 06:59 AM
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Boy, I think you did this day trip the hottest day of the year, so far,...hope you don't come back a baked lobster!!!
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 01:35 PM
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Yes today was a HOT DAY! Thankfully is Aussies have had hotter but we certainly didn't do the hike! We just lazed by the beach

SO here is how it went . . we drove to Portovenere . .this place was great and I have put it on my wish list for the future! The traffic/parking was a bit of a nightmare but they did have a great bus system in place so we parked on top of the hill right next to a bus stop and took the bus(1euro) down to the port.

Bought our day pass (24euro per person) and went on the ferry.

LOVED THIS! The views were great! Kids got their sleep and we got off at Monterosso.

Found this AMAZING restaurant . . I took a photo of the name of the place and promise to share it however my phone is dead at the moment . . the seafood was OMG delicious! I thought my 4yr old was going to fall asleep he was enjoying it so much

After lunch we did a little wander/shop . .I am really loving buying the kids a tshirt from the places we visit etc . .I am finding it helps them learn the names of the places and hopefully my clever grandmother will be able to cut them up later and create a memory quilt . .it's a plan . .so I keep telling hubby as the suitcases are splitting at the seams!

Ok...then it was time to relax at the beach. I am not used to these private beaches and the thought of paying 20euros to have a sunbed didn't sit right with me so we used the wooden boat ramp things.

I know you don't really know my family but if you did know my 4yr old boy and asked him what would be the most amazing places he would say ... some trains, rocks and beach . .and can you believe it . .we found his heaven! So out of pure enjoyment of watching his and my little daughters pleasure we decided to stay put and just chill...we know we will be back and it was such a hot day . . after a really beautiful swim and play we headed up to the little playground and then enjoyed an icecream before heading home.

The night was then picking out a place on the strett ..Queen's I think it was called . .the food was well priced but took way too long to come out! It was delicious though!

Then home! Tomorrow is a lazy Lucca day . . we are just going to take it easy . .really enjoy this beautiful town and then pack ready for the early drive to Varenna the next day.

Thanks for all those who helped with today. SHame I didn't ge to the other seafood place but this one was amazing too!

NIGHT!
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 01:59 PM
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claire,
Be sure to take a walk on the wall surrounding Lucca. There are little parks and benches all along up there. Families everywhere. We rented bikes and rode around on the wall but I do not know if there are bikes for the little ones or if the adult bikes have a seat for the kids. Even just strolling along with the kids in their strollers will be a lovely memory for all of you. It really is beautifu and shady on the wall. Be sure to check it out.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 03:03 PM
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Claire, I honestly couldn't read your planning threads at all because it drove me a little nuts that they were in so many different directions, but I have to say I've thoroughly enjoyed all four of your trip report threads. I like your attitude and energy a lot, and as someone who has four young kids, it's very interesting to read about your adventures with your young children. At some point a few years from now I'm going to take mine on a three week trip to France. I'm curious where else you are going on this trip after Varenna?
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 03:15 PM
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Glad you enjoyed your day on cinque Terre. A couple of restaurant suggestions for Varenna are Albergo del Sole which on the main town square and we ate there 5 times during our week in Varenna in May. Also Osteria Quattro Pass. We ate there one night but wish we had gone more often. Both have lovely food and great ambience as well as being run by friendly and helpful people.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 04:22 PM
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Following.
(And enjoying with amusement )
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Old Jul 22nd, 2013, 11:10 PM
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Morning Michele . . was going to do the wall today Thought it would be a good way to see the town for photos . . .we can get bikes but hubby thinks we might be putting the kids at risk if we fall etc . .I think we will be fine! I once had my son in a front pack baby carrier while riding in Rotto! If I could do that I am sure riding on the top wall will be fine! Lets see how I go! Otherwise...yes a walk it will be!

Morning Blaise22 . . I know my planning was a nightmare with all the dramas we had I am so glad I have had so many wonderful people on the way helping me! This trip has been amazing! But yes very different with kids! From Varenna we do Milan,Prague,Berlin and Frankfurt and then we are homeward bound

thanks for the tips on places to eat jen! Will go to both of these
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Old Jul 23rd, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Last day/night in Lucca! Perfect day ...just again bloody hot ! We spent the morning ... Shopping then headed off to a supermarket to get supplies for our Varenna apartment tomorrow ... No cold stuff just snacks and drinks for the long drive ahead bonus was finding the 23euro bottle of veuve !!! Yay!!!

From here back we came to rest and pack and Skype then I went out with my son ... Just the two of us ... Hand in hand with ice cream ...let him lead the way.

Then we all went out for the walk around the wall .... High
Y recommend this! Really wish the day was cooler be ause I really wanted to bike ride it but waiting until after 7pm also worked

From here we found the first listed restaurant .. Vecchia Trattoria Burilli ... Talk about being hidden away! Great food and service I chose a seafood pasta and hubby got the ragu ...kids got their fried squid and chips and everyone was happy!

So wish I was here for longer so I could try all the places recommended. Oh for lunch we went to restaurant Francesca ... Didn't look as much outside but turned out a great choice... Kids loved their pasta and hubby and I shared pizza and bruschetta.

So Lucca has been fantastic ... Our hotel/apartment was called casa paolina ( www.casapaolina.it ) we paid 140euro a night and the apartment was huge ... The kids shared the double sofa end which they have in the front entrance ...unusual layout ..but it worked well! The manager was incredibly helpful and took the time to help sort us out and was always there to help.

Some negatives was that there was no broom to sweep floors and those of you with kids will know that it is sooo important ...once asked they supplied one ... Also there was no washing machine or dryer ... Internet worked well though ....

Ok night everyone.. Will post once in Varenna
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Old Jul 23rd, 2013, 01:16 PM
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Relaxing into it because you know you'll be back is a cornerstone of having a great time for me. Glad you were able to "stay put and chill" as you put it. Often these are the best moments, we just have to learn to let ourselves savour them.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2013, 02:26 PM
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Lovely, lovely, loving it!
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Old Jul 24th, 2013, 01:03 PM
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hi everyone! Finally after a long day I get the internet connected!

What can I say but WOW . .what a view! The drive was amazing! However the view from our apartment is to die for! Literally! You could easily die getting here! The drive up and then down this mountain with the twists and turns were scary enough without the need for it to be the width for one car but be for both directions! We seriously just pray and hope for the best so once unpacked the first thing we did was head back out to find the supermarket and buy up breakfast and dinner for the next 4 nights! we figure once down and once up a day is the maximum risk we are going to take! But the view really is just so incredible! We have uninterrupted views of Lake Como! So it looks like a true family holiday of playing board games, swimming and enjoying the view rather then the pace we have been doing.

Our plan over the next few days ..in no particular order . .is to take a ferry to Bellagio for lunch one day, take the ferry to Como for another day, go to FoxTown for . . you guessed it . .some more shopping! and also have some time swimming down at Bellano ...really cute . . actually looks bigger then Varenna! I can see now why people questioned me spending a week here. I am glad to have the 5 days. Just to breathe and spend some fun time together but it looks like those great restaurants tips will be missed

Side note question . . any villas you think we really should see?

Ok night everyone! PS We have a lavender bush in the garden that has bees in wasps in it and while my poor daughter was eating her "picnic tea" she got stung! Poor thing! Oh and this place has no air con and no flyscreens! ARGH! Sure hope it doesn't get too hot in here!
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