the dang stairs, smitten, red wine, how can I stay in this place for 4 days - An Italian trip report
Jul 19th, 2007, 12:07 AM
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the dang stairs, smitten, red wine, how can I stay in this place for 4 days - An Italian trip report
I’ve been hesitant to give a report on our recent trip to Italy as I’m not sure that our experiences add any new knowledge to this wonderful forum. However, I couldn’t think of any other form of payment for all the information I received in my searches here. Maybe this will be helpful for someone.
Background: We are in our mid 40’s, from the southern US. We celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary in May with a first trip to Italy, this was a time just for us – our three wonderful children were left with grandma. I spent about 10 months reading and planning and loved every minute of it. My husband is a great travel companion but not a planner. His role was to say things like, “whatever you pick will be wonderful”, “that hotel looks great”, etc.
Language: I learned as much Italian as possible – used all 3 sets of Pimsleur, read grammar books, memorized verbs, etc. I really enjoyed it and plan to continue. I was surprised and thrilled every time that someone understood me when I spoke Italian. I think that it was a great advantage to be able to speak a little of the language.
Packing: My husband easily packed his things in a 22 carry-on. I squeezed into a 26 inch whale. In my bag I also carried an empty duffle to use for purchases on the way back. I will definitely pack lighter next time. One thing I was glad that I did not skimp on was shoes. I had 3 pair that were really comfortable and I was glad to be able to alternate. Please heed the constant advice that is given here to take comfortable walking shoes.
Clothing: For me - jeans or capris with tees or cute tops for sightseeing. Black pants with nice shirt or sweater, heels or sandals for evening. Husband wore jeans or khakis. He did bring a linen sport coat which he wore occasionally in the evenings. There is really no reason to worry about your clothing. We saw many groups of Italian tourists and although they weren’t sloppy, they also weren’t dressed up – they were dressed like tourists. Really – just dress sensibly for the weather and activity and don’t worry about it.
Transportation: To avoid backtracking we flew into Naples and home from Venice. It was our first time to fly business class. What a difference! We were pushing buttons, stretching our seats out, playing with the TV and going through our goody bags like a couple of kids instead of an old married couple. When the attendant brought our champagne my husband leaned over and said “I’m already having fun”. Unfortunately, even with the reclining seats and the extra space neither of us could sleep. We jealously watched a guy across the aisle quickly eat his dinner then lay back and sleep for a solid 8 hours – he woke up barely in time to have some coffee before we landed. We decided that we needed whatever drugs he was taking before our next trip.
Our Itinerary: 4 days in Positano, 4 days in Rome, 4 days in Tuscany, 4 days in Venice.
Mail from Italy: We mailed postcards to our children everyday we were in Italy. It was fascinating to see the order in which they arrived. The ones from the Amalfi coast were the first mailed and the last to arrive, well after we got home. The ones sent from the Vatican arrived in 4 days.
The 3 main things I worried about that didn’t happen:
1. We would miss our connection in Munich to Naples. We found the Munich airport to be large but efficient. Even with switching terminals 1 hour 15 minutes was plenty of time.
2. My bag wouldn’t arrive in Naples. The airport in Naples was such a contrast from Munich. Crowded, old, semi-dirty, hot, lots of talking and Prontos! as Italians answered cell phones. I loved it and best of all my bag came rolling promptly down the conveyer belt.
3. Our driver wouldn’t show up at the airport. We pushed through the crowds and started scanning what seemed like hundreds of signs looking for our name. We finally found it – misspelled but recognizable. Our driver, Luigi, loaded us into a clean air-conditioned car and we were really on our way.
Drive to the hotel:
We found the drive out of Naples to be quite off-putting because there was trash everywhere. It was piled on the sidewalks and overflowing into the streets. (Since we have been home we learned that no trash was being picked up due to the landfill being full?!) However, we were soon heading up the coast and the views became more and more beautiful. I would suggest that if you are the slightest bit prone to car sickness you might want to be prepared with medication when driving these Amalfi coast roads. Our driver was great but there is not much one can do when there are hairpin turns and vertigo inducing drop-offs and scooters flying through tiny gaps in traffic.
Eden Roc: We were warmly welcomed at this lovely hotel. The staff was helpful but not intrusive. Our room was large, cool, quiet and spotlessly clean. The view from our 3rd floor suite was amazing. The breakfast area is lovely and the food was good. Eden Roc is located high in the town and on a main road so I could see how this might be an issue for some but it didn’t bother us. The bus stop is conveniently located just down the road.
Background: We are in our mid 40’s, from the southern US. We celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary in May with a first trip to Italy, this was a time just for us – our three wonderful children were left with grandma. I spent about 10 months reading and planning and loved every minute of it. My husband is a great travel companion but not a planner. His role was to say things like, “whatever you pick will be wonderful”, “that hotel looks great”, etc.
Language: I learned as much Italian as possible – used all 3 sets of Pimsleur, read grammar books, memorized verbs, etc. I really enjoyed it and plan to continue. I was surprised and thrilled every time that someone understood me when I spoke Italian. I think that it was a great advantage to be able to speak a little of the language.
Packing: My husband easily packed his things in a 22 carry-on. I squeezed into a 26 inch whale. In my bag I also carried an empty duffle to use for purchases on the way back. I will definitely pack lighter next time. One thing I was glad that I did not skimp on was shoes. I had 3 pair that were really comfortable and I was glad to be able to alternate. Please heed the constant advice that is given here to take comfortable walking shoes.
Clothing: For me - jeans or capris with tees or cute tops for sightseeing. Black pants with nice shirt or sweater, heels or sandals for evening. Husband wore jeans or khakis. He did bring a linen sport coat which he wore occasionally in the evenings. There is really no reason to worry about your clothing. We saw many groups of Italian tourists and although they weren’t sloppy, they also weren’t dressed up – they were dressed like tourists. Really – just dress sensibly for the weather and activity and don’t worry about it.
Transportation: To avoid backtracking we flew into Naples and home from Venice. It was our first time to fly business class. What a difference! We were pushing buttons, stretching our seats out, playing with the TV and going through our goody bags like a couple of kids instead of an old married couple. When the attendant brought our champagne my husband leaned over and said “I’m already having fun”. Unfortunately, even with the reclining seats and the extra space neither of us could sleep. We jealously watched a guy across the aisle quickly eat his dinner then lay back and sleep for a solid 8 hours – he woke up barely in time to have some coffee before we landed. We decided that we needed whatever drugs he was taking before our next trip.
Our Itinerary: 4 days in Positano, 4 days in Rome, 4 days in Tuscany, 4 days in Venice.
Mail from Italy: We mailed postcards to our children everyday we were in Italy. It was fascinating to see the order in which they arrived. The ones from the Amalfi coast were the first mailed and the last to arrive, well after we got home. The ones sent from the Vatican arrived in 4 days.
The 3 main things I worried about that didn’t happen:
1. We would miss our connection in Munich to Naples. We found the Munich airport to be large but efficient. Even with switching terminals 1 hour 15 minutes was plenty of time.
2. My bag wouldn’t arrive in Naples. The airport in Naples was such a contrast from Munich. Crowded, old, semi-dirty, hot, lots of talking and Prontos! as Italians answered cell phones. I loved it and best of all my bag came rolling promptly down the conveyer belt.
3. Our driver wouldn’t show up at the airport. We pushed through the crowds and started scanning what seemed like hundreds of signs looking for our name. We finally found it – misspelled but recognizable. Our driver, Luigi, loaded us into a clean air-conditioned car and we were really on our way.
Drive to the hotel:
We found the drive out of Naples to be quite off-putting because there was trash everywhere. It was piled on the sidewalks and overflowing into the streets. (Since we have been home we learned that no trash was being picked up due to the landfill being full?!) However, we were soon heading up the coast and the views became more and more beautiful. I would suggest that if you are the slightest bit prone to car sickness you might want to be prepared with medication when driving these Amalfi coast roads. Our driver was great but there is not much one can do when there are hairpin turns and vertigo inducing drop-offs and scooters flying through tiny gaps in traffic.
Eden Roc: We were warmly welcomed at this lovely hotel. The staff was helpful but not intrusive. Our room was large, cool, quiet and spotlessly clean. The view from our 3rd floor suite was amazing. The breakfast area is lovely and the food was good. Eden Roc is located high in the town and on a main road so I could see how this might be an issue for some but it didn’t bother us. The bus stop is conveniently located just down the road.
Jul 19th, 2007, 01:58 AM
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Lovely report. Can't wait to hear the rest. Your husband sounds just like mine, re not being a planner. And we are also an "old married couple". You have a different writing style than most others here and it was a pleasure to read what you wrote so far.
More please !!
More please !!
Jul 19th, 2007, 06:33 AM
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viaggiatrice, I'm enjoying your report. My husband and I are also in our mid-forties with 3 kids, from the southern US, and we just celebrated our 25th anniversary this past October! (And my husband is ALSO a wonderful travel companion and a non-so-wonderful planner.)
Your itinerary sounds like it was great. Looking forward to more!
Your itinerary sounds like it was great. Looking forward to more!
Jul 19th, 2007, 11:03 AM
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Another fan of your writing style viaggiatrice!
HAPPY 25 Wedding Anniversary! You two certainly celebrated it in a grand way, good for you!
Husbands, lol. My late husband was the best travel buddy too..but regarding trip planning..I was the inhouse travel agent!
HAPPY 25 Wedding Anniversary! You two certainly celebrated it in a grand way, good for you!
Husbands, lol. My late husband was the best travel buddy too..but regarding trip planning..I was the inhouse travel agent!
Jul 19th, 2007, 06:08 PM
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Thanks to all for your kind words and encouragement.
I apologize if this section shows up multiple times. This is my third try to get it to post.
First day: After settling in we decided to do a walking tour of Positano from the Sunflower hiking guide as an orientation. It was a hot sunny day and we had read that sunshine helps reset your body to local time. The walk took us down to the main beach then across a hill to another beach, then up some stairs and then up some more stairs and then up some more stairs. Finally we arrived at a road which we were supposed to cross and go up more stairs. It was then that my jet-lagged husband rebelled. No more stairs. Let’s find the bus stop. A tiny, white-haired woman bundled in a sweater came along walking her two dogs. “May I help you?” she asked. I think she was British but her accent also had a Gatsbyish northeastern sound - hard to place. She walked us to the bus stop and stayed with us until the bus arrived. She imperiously, in Italian, told the bus driver where we were staying, that we were tired and he must drop us off in front of the hotel. As my children would have said when they were young – he minded her.
We arrived back just in time for the wine-tasting at the bar. We lingered quite a while trying some wonderful local wines. The soft spoken bar tender asked if we would like to have dinner at the hotel. As we were beginning to get that odd, lightheaded, disoriented feeling from jetlag, we agreed. He said we could order our meal in the bar and he would have it set up for us on the pool level. They called us when it was ready and we made our way up to the top of the hotel. Wow. We were the only ones up there, candles had been lit all around our table, it was dusk, the lights were sparkling on the hillside of Positano. Food was irrelevant. I was in Italy – celebrating 25 years with my wonderful husband, the view, smells, sounds, the way the air felt – I just kept thinking – soak it in, remember it all. It was a perfect first evening in Italy.
Amalfi Coast:
We woke up the next morning and I was shocked to look at the clock and discover it was 11:30! We had slept 13.5 hours straight. Jetlag cured, we were ready for the next few days in paradise. We explored Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Atrani and other towns in the area, saw the usual sights, got around by bus or ferry. I highly recommend taking the ferry any chance you get. Not only is it faster than the bus but the views from the water are amazing. Rather than a day by day description here are the highlights.
Pompeii:
We joined a tour at the entrance. It was fine but next time I would plan a tour in advance with Context or another reputable company. Our guide rather forcefully drummed up a group of about 10 English speaking tourists at 10 Euro each. He actually did a decent job on the two hour tour of hitting the highlights but we are history buffs and Pompeii was so amazing that we really wanted more depth. He did have one small idiosyncrasy, I guess he wanted to make sure we thought we were getting our money’s worth so he would stop quite often and say things like, “see, you wouldn’t know anything without me,” or “aren’t you glad you have me to show you around,” etc. Pompeii was crowded and hectic but there were moments off the beaten path that I would get a real sense what this place would have been like as a thriving town – here one day and gone the next – it was eerie. We can’t wait to go back and wander those streets again.
Hiking:
If you are able I highly recommend doing some of the hikes on the Amalfi coast. We visited the paper museum in Amalfi town and hiked the trail to the old mills. This was a fun one and not difficult. We spent a little time on the Trail of the Gods – I would love to return and do a long hike here. Another day we took a trail that begins in Ravello just outside of Villa Cimbrone and goes down, down, and down many stairs to Atrani and Amalfi. We saw mules carrying supplies, were able to look into the terraced hillside gardens and groves, passed some old local women who were walking up the trail as easily as we were walking down. This prompted my husband to comment that it wasn’t the Mediterranean diet that made these people so healthy it was the dang stairs. We are physically fit, exercise regularly and have no knee problems but this hike made us shaky in the legs and we had sore calves for days afterward. The reward was arriving at Atrani. I fell in love with this little village. It’s only a 10 minute walk yet worlds away from touristy Amalfi. We plopped ourselves at a bar on the square and sat there drinking, visiting with a few other tourists, watching the locals go about their business and just soaking in the atmosphere for so long that we began to fear we would miss the last bus to Positano.
Deliziosa limone: We really enjoyed these delectable, volcano shaped pastries. One day we had three!
Lemon granita: Yum. The woman who sold us these from her cart in Positano said that she made them fresh every morning from her own recipe. They were refreshing and perfectly sweet and tart. This was one of the times when being able to speak a little Italian gained us a world of information about the lemons that we wouldn’t have learned otherwise.
La Tagliata: We had a great time eating at this restaurant that feels like it is in the clouds. This place is as much about the view as the food so if I were going again I would get there before dark. We were seated at a table by the window and brought a jug of wine. First came the different appetizers: cheeses, cured meats, grilled stuffed zucchini, chick peas, fava beans, pinto bean salad with tomatoes and tuna, cauliflower. This was followed by the pasta course: linguine with zucchini in a white sauce, cannelloni, ravioli and “mama lasagna”. After that came several different types of grilled meat with salad and fries and finally dessert which I don’t think we even touched. We thoroughly enjoyed the entire evening.
La Cambusa: Although we had a good meal and a great time I probably wouldn’t eat here again. I think it was overpriced compared to other restaurants with comparable food in town. That said, we still enjoyed the food and atmosphere. We arrived quite late and as the other diners started leaving it became quieter and even more relaxing. We were able to really talk with each other as well as the waiters. One of the best things about dining in Italy is that you never, ever feel like you are being rushed, and the waiters take such pride in their work and their restaurants. Our waiter had been working there for 14 years.
The people: Almost everywhere in Italy the people were kind and helpful. This seemed to be especially true on the Amalfi coast. The Italians here were not only friendly but downright talkative. We enjoyed getting to know a little about them and hearing about their relatives in the states. Everyone was wonderful – if they were sick and tired of tourists they never let it show.
The beauty: Words can’t describe it – really a stunning place.
Last day: We spent our last morning in Positano purchasing our train tickets from Naples to Rome, ordering the pottery that we had been eyeing, packing up and sadly leaving Eden Roc. Luigi was our driver once again to the train station in Naples. He regaled us all the way with his interesting life story. Once there he kindly walked us into the station and pointed us to our platform. As we headed to our train a little older man literally grabbed my bag out of my hand. “What number?” he called out as he jogged by. With no choice at this point I answered and just tried to keep up with him. After he loaded my bag on the train my husband gave him a good tip and was immediately pestered for more. I had to laugh at the argument that ensued between two men who didn’t understand a word the other was saying. We saw him out the window of the train talking on his cell phone. At last we were on our way to Rome.
I apologize if this section shows up multiple times. This is my third try to get it to post.
First day: After settling in we decided to do a walking tour of Positano from the Sunflower hiking guide as an orientation. It was a hot sunny day and we had read that sunshine helps reset your body to local time. The walk took us down to the main beach then across a hill to another beach, then up some stairs and then up some more stairs and then up some more stairs. Finally we arrived at a road which we were supposed to cross and go up more stairs. It was then that my jet-lagged husband rebelled. No more stairs. Let’s find the bus stop. A tiny, white-haired woman bundled in a sweater came along walking her two dogs. “May I help you?” she asked. I think she was British but her accent also had a Gatsbyish northeastern sound - hard to place. She walked us to the bus stop and stayed with us until the bus arrived. She imperiously, in Italian, told the bus driver where we were staying, that we were tired and he must drop us off in front of the hotel. As my children would have said when they were young – he minded her.
We arrived back just in time for the wine-tasting at the bar. We lingered quite a while trying some wonderful local wines. The soft spoken bar tender asked if we would like to have dinner at the hotel. As we were beginning to get that odd, lightheaded, disoriented feeling from jetlag, we agreed. He said we could order our meal in the bar and he would have it set up for us on the pool level. They called us when it was ready and we made our way up to the top of the hotel. Wow. We were the only ones up there, candles had been lit all around our table, it was dusk, the lights were sparkling on the hillside of Positano. Food was irrelevant. I was in Italy – celebrating 25 years with my wonderful husband, the view, smells, sounds, the way the air felt – I just kept thinking – soak it in, remember it all. It was a perfect first evening in Italy.
Amalfi Coast:
We woke up the next morning and I was shocked to look at the clock and discover it was 11:30! We had slept 13.5 hours straight. Jetlag cured, we were ready for the next few days in paradise. We explored Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Atrani and other towns in the area, saw the usual sights, got around by bus or ferry. I highly recommend taking the ferry any chance you get. Not only is it faster than the bus but the views from the water are amazing. Rather than a day by day description here are the highlights.
Pompeii:
We joined a tour at the entrance. It was fine but next time I would plan a tour in advance with Context or another reputable company. Our guide rather forcefully drummed up a group of about 10 English speaking tourists at 10 Euro each. He actually did a decent job on the two hour tour of hitting the highlights but we are history buffs and Pompeii was so amazing that we really wanted more depth. He did have one small idiosyncrasy, I guess he wanted to make sure we thought we were getting our money’s worth so he would stop quite often and say things like, “see, you wouldn’t know anything without me,” or “aren’t you glad you have me to show you around,” etc. Pompeii was crowded and hectic but there were moments off the beaten path that I would get a real sense what this place would have been like as a thriving town – here one day and gone the next – it was eerie. We can’t wait to go back and wander those streets again.
Hiking:
If you are able I highly recommend doing some of the hikes on the Amalfi coast. We visited the paper museum in Amalfi town and hiked the trail to the old mills. This was a fun one and not difficult. We spent a little time on the Trail of the Gods – I would love to return and do a long hike here. Another day we took a trail that begins in Ravello just outside of Villa Cimbrone and goes down, down, and down many stairs to Atrani and Amalfi. We saw mules carrying supplies, were able to look into the terraced hillside gardens and groves, passed some old local women who were walking up the trail as easily as we were walking down. This prompted my husband to comment that it wasn’t the Mediterranean diet that made these people so healthy it was the dang stairs. We are physically fit, exercise regularly and have no knee problems but this hike made us shaky in the legs and we had sore calves for days afterward. The reward was arriving at Atrani. I fell in love with this little village. It’s only a 10 minute walk yet worlds away from touristy Amalfi. We plopped ourselves at a bar on the square and sat there drinking, visiting with a few other tourists, watching the locals go about their business and just soaking in the atmosphere for so long that we began to fear we would miss the last bus to Positano.
Deliziosa limone: We really enjoyed these delectable, volcano shaped pastries. One day we had three!
Lemon granita: Yum. The woman who sold us these from her cart in Positano said that she made them fresh every morning from her own recipe. They were refreshing and perfectly sweet and tart. This was one of the times when being able to speak a little Italian gained us a world of information about the lemons that we wouldn’t have learned otherwise.
La Tagliata: We had a great time eating at this restaurant that feels like it is in the clouds. This place is as much about the view as the food so if I were going again I would get there before dark. We were seated at a table by the window and brought a jug of wine. First came the different appetizers: cheeses, cured meats, grilled stuffed zucchini, chick peas, fava beans, pinto bean salad with tomatoes and tuna, cauliflower. This was followed by the pasta course: linguine with zucchini in a white sauce, cannelloni, ravioli and “mama lasagna”. After that came several different types of grilled meat with salad and fries and finally dessert which I don’t think we even touched. We thoroughly enjoyed the entire evening.
La Cambusa: Although we had a good meal and a great time I probably wouldn’t eat here again. I think it was overpriced compared to other restaurants with comparable food in town. That said, we still enjoyed the food and atmosphere. We arrived quite late and as the other diners started leaving it became quieter and even more relaxing. We were able to really talk with each other as well as the waiters. One of the best things about dining in Italy is that you never, ever feel like you are being rushed, and the waiters take such pride in their work and their restaurants. Our waiter had been working there for 14 years.
The people: Almost everywhere in Italy the people were kind and helpful. This seemed to be especially true on the Amalfi coast. The Italians here were not only friendly but downright talkative. We enjoyed getting to know a little about them and hearing about their relatives in the states. Everyone was wonderful – if they were sick and tired of tourists they never let it show.
The beauty: Words can’t describe it – really a stunning place.
Last day: We spent our last morning in Positano purchasing our train tickets from Naples to Rome, ordering the pottery that we had been eyeing, packing up and sadly leaving Eden Roc. Luigi was our driver once again to the train station in Naples. He regaled us all the way with his interesting life story. Once there he kindly walked us into the station and pointed us to our platform. As we headed to our train a little older man literally grabbed my bag out of my hand. “What number?” he called out as he jogged by. With no choice at this point I answered and just tried to keep up with him. After he loaded my bag on the train my husband gave him a good tip and was immediately pestered for more. I had to laugh at the argument that ensued between two men who didn’t understand a word the other was saying. We saw him out the window of the train talking on his cell phone. At last we were on our way to Rome.
Jul 20th, 2007, 08:36 AM
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Jean, The old gentleman was no longer there. We were told that long time owner retired and left his factory to become a museum. They never mentioned whether or not he was still living.
Jul 20th, 2007, 08:55 AM
#17
I was afraid you'd say that, but I'm going to imagine him retired in Amalfi, although working there couldn't have been too rough.
Antonio is one of our most memorable characters of our travels in Italy. He didn't speak English, we don't speak Italian, but we were able to communicate. He told us he'd been making paper in the little stone building since the end of WWII but that the building was centuries old. He explained and demonstrated the entire paper-making process, and he truly loved his craft. We bought a charming print of the building on his paper.
When we got home, I sent him a note on hand-made paper that I'd found in a shop near my office and included a postcard of our seaside town. I can only hope he could decipher my message in very elementary Italian but certainly know how much we treasured meeting him.
Antonio is one of our most memorable characters of our travels in Italy. He didn't speak English, we don't speak Italian, but we were able to communicate. He told us he'd been making paper in the little stone building since the end of WWII but that the building was centuries old. He explained and demonstrated the entire paper-making process, and he truly loved his craft. We bought a charming print of the building on his paper.
When we got home, I sent him a note on hand-made paper that I'd found in a shop near my office and included a postcard of our seaside town. I can only hope he could decipher my message in very elementary Italian but certainly know how much we treasured meeting him.
Jul 20th, 2007, 09:37 AM
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<i>We were the only ones up there, candles had been lit all around our table, it was dusk, the lights were sparkling on the hillside of Positano. Food was irrelevant. I was in Italy – celebrating 25 years with my wonderful husband, the view, smells, sounds, the way the air felt – I just kept thinking – soak it in, remember it all. It was a perfect first evening in Italy. </i>
I <b>really</b> hope that I'm lucky enough to be able to say the same...
(Specially considering that food, for me, is definitely NOT irrelevant 
)
So glad you had a wonderful time!
I <b>really</b> hope that I'm lucky enough to be able to say the same...
(Specially considering that food, for me, is definitely NOT irrelevant )So glad you had a wonderful time!
Jul 20th, 2007, 10:33 AM
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viaggiatrice: I am really enjoying your report and you have a great writing style. DH and I will be going to Rome, Almalfi Coast and Sicily next May for our 30th anniversary so I am avidly taking notes from your report. It sounds like you had a wonderful trip. Thank you for sharing.
