The 2011 Palio, Siena
 

This is the second time I have been to the Palio. The highlight of the 2006 Palio was the defeat of the favourite who was pipped at the post by an untried jockey riding the lowest ranked horse. The 2011 Palio was characterized by intense jockey competition and risk taking, resulting in a spectacular and exciting race and many rider falls. An extended illustrated report is given in http://www.artphototravel.net/europe/palio-siena-italy/
Stood in the Campo central area for the 2nd morning trial race, but the evening race was cancelled due to rain. The next trial race was 9am the following day where I photographed the action from a window overlooking the San Martino bend where two horses hit the barrier resulting in two riders falling. Two hours later Siena experienced one of the heaviest thunderstorms for 10 years with hail and rain and the evening trial was cancelled. At this point it was not clear if the rest of the events including the Palio itself would be cancelled, as the forecast was for rain. Fortunately the last trial run (Provaccia) was rescheduled for 10am, and I had a magnificent window overlooking the start line. (The Mossa). The race started with one horse facing the wrong way. This is a crazy horse race, full of surprises. The Palio itself including the 2 hour procession starting at 4pm, with medieval knights and flag throwers was held in beautiful weather with wispy clouds. I had a great window at the Casato bend, which had unhindered views along the length of the track that runs alongside the ancient tower. The race was very fast and five riders went down mostly around the Casato bend. Oca (the goose) was the Contrada that won; it was a case of last man standing. Must admit I thoroughly enjoyed the spectacle and also got some good images.

les - I'm afraid that I've been put off the pallio by the thought of the crowds and general hoo ha. by the sound of it you managed to avoid that extremely well - how?

Going to the central free area about 1-1.5 hours before gets you in the first row for the trial races. So that's ok. For the palio itself you really have to book a grand stand seat, window or balcony from a private operator well in advance. The tickets are expensive from $300-800 and higher for an exclusive window, but as a once off experience well worth the money. Unless you are young and fit you don't want to be in the crush, where to get a good place you may have to stay all day, especially if it is hot. You can google "tickets Palio".

We have been to Siena 3 times when the race has been held. We have only seen the race once and that was enough. It is lovely to sit in Il Campo or wander the back streets on the preceding evenings. Each of the 17 Contrade march round in shows of bravdo all very Italian, a great spectacle.

Unfortunately, we found the Palio itself to be pretty Italian as well. Lots of show but.... well it lasts about 90 seconds after you have fought your way in 3 hours before, for the race itself. In August you may have to endure 40oC. Unless you pay the silly amount mentioned above the views on the square are not good the higher south side is best.

The best place to park in in the south near the old hospital. We paid e3 for parking and felt it was a wasted e3. $300 - $800 is beyond anything I can comprehend.

In short, we didn't think much of the Palio, the build up was great theatre, the race itself was 3 hours of hell then 90 seconds of "what was that all about".

...thanks, hn. I agree that the cost is a big snag. I can think of lots of other things I'd rather spend that sort of money on.

Is that $300-800 per person (for a balcony or window)>

Yeah I have little interest in paying probably premium prices to stay or park near Siena during the event.

How far is the hospital parking from the Campo? I've parked at the garage just inside Porta Tufi or Porta Romana in the past but it was still quite a hike to the Campo and it wasn't completely level either.

Would be interested in staying near the Campo though, or overlooking it would be great. I know some lodgings you can drive into to drop off and pick up luggage but you have to arrange for parking on your own.

Are some of these expensive vantage points part of hotels or B&Bs?

Sorry for the late reply as I've been on an arctic cruise without internet.
First I must apologise with the currencies. I put dollars but they are in fact Euros. I will have to make the correction. So It is even more expensive than it first appeared.
Window positions (this is not exclusive) for the trial races go for 60-90euro per person, terraces or balconies 45 euros. Grandstand seats for the trials are very difficult to obtain even though they are not all filled.
For the Palio race itself, Grand stand seats (face value ~200 Euro go for 300-600 Euros per persons, terraces or balconies ~500Euros, Exclusive windows 800 -1500 Euro(the exclusive window I had at the Casato bend was 900 Euro)

Some sites which sell tickets are given below
tickets only (no packages or accommodation)
http://www.jacopodellatorre.com/eng_index.php

packages
http://www.tickitaly.com/tickets/sie...et-booking.php
http://www.2beinsiena.com/Il+Palio+d...-SCOPRIRE-.htm
http://www.initaly.com/info/palio/paliotix.htm
Seats with hotel
http://www.paliotours.com/dates_prices_palio.html

The closest hotel, is Hotel La Perla, Basic rooms, up 32 steps on 2nd floor, great central position, air-conditioned rooms with on-suite, clean, but little else, no phone. Get a quiet room, can be dark as window looks over very small courtyard. Cost double room 85 Euros/night. no parking.

None of the expensive vantage points are connected with hotels or B$Bs. They are connected with private apartments or with shops or restaurants around the Campo. It is possible that a private window may also be part of package which includes rented accommodation but I do not know of any.